All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.
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To the City of Sunshine: Melbourne’s Top Five Visitor Destinations in March 1915
A Journey Back to the Great War Era, When Tram Bells Rang and Empire Loyalties Were Paramount.
Modern Melbourne is a vibrant fusion of gleaming skyscrapers, hidden laneway bars, and world-class sporting arenas. But cast your mind back 109 years, to the sweltering late summer of 1915.
Australia was barely 14 years old as a federated nation, and the Great War (the war to end all wars) was dominating civic life. Thousands of young men were training outside the city, preparing for an unknown fate in distant Gallipoli, and Melbourne—the unofficial cultural capital—buzzed with patriotism, anxiety, and a fierce determination to keep life proceeding apace.
If you arrived in Melbourne by steamer or train in March 1915, seeking culture, leisure, or respite, where would a respectable visitor spend their time?
Here are the Top Five essential places to visit, a snapshot of life in the ‘Marvellous Melbourne’ of the Great War era.
1. The Public Library, Museum, and National Gallery (Current State Library Victoria & NGV)
In 1915, these three institutions were housed together in the grand complex on Swanston Street. This was not just a repository of books; it was the intellectual and cultural heart of the Commonwealth.
What You Would See:
- The Dome: The spectacular octagonal reading room (the famous Domed Reading Room) had opened just ten years earlier and was a stunning architectural wonder. You would see men—and increasingly, women—poring over newspapers and ledgers, often discussing war news in hushed tones.
- Art & Artifacts: The National Gallery sector displayed works purchased through the burgeoning Felton Bequest, providing access to European masters and important local artists.
- The Atmosphere: A place of serious contemplation, where city officials mingled with students and researchers, all seeking knowledge away from the intense energy of the streets.
2. The Royal Botanic Gardens and the Shrine’s Future Site
While the magnificent Shrine of Remembrance would not be built until the 1930s, the surrounding area was already one of Melbourne’s most beloved leisure spots.
What You Would See:
- The Gardens: March was the perfect time for a late-summer promenade. Visitors strolled along the Ornamental Lake, admired the recently established Tropical Glasshouse, and enjoyed picnics beneath the historic elms and oaks that had been growing since the mid-19th century.
- The People: This was the definitive spot for society to see and be seen. You would observe impeccably dressed ladies in high-necked lace and enormous hats, often accompanied by men in civilian suits or military uniforms on brief leave.
- Patriotic Displays: On Sundays, it was common to see unofficial gatherings or concerts raising funds for the war effort, turning the scenic grounds into a hub of patriotic activity.
3. The Block Arcade and Bourke Street
The central business district of Melbourne in 1915 was defined by the stunning Victorian and Edwardian architecture of its key retail streets. No spot was more essential for a visitor than the glorious indoor thoroughfare of The Block Arcade.
What You Would See:
- High Commerce: This was the place to acquire the latest fashions, fine jewellery, and imported delicacies. Shops like Georges and others nearby set the retail standard for the nation.
- Taking Tea: A visit to The Block was incomplete without taking afternoon tea at the famed Hopetoun Tea Rooms, with its opulent setting and renowned cakes.
- Tram Life: Bourke Street was the beating heart of the city’s electric tram network, still relatively new. The jingle of the trams was the soundtrack to the busy street, ferrying commuters and shoppers to and from the inner suburbs. The sheer volume of people flowing through this intersection was truly ‘Marvellous Melbourne’ on display.
4. St. Kilda Esplanade and Pier
To escape the grime and tension of the central city, Melbourne residents would take the train or tram south to the seaside suburb of St. Kilda. While not yet the bohemian hub it would become later in the century, St. Kilda offered fresh air and seaside entertainment.
What You Would See:
- The Pier: St. Kilda Pier was a major destination. Visitors could stroll out over the water, watch fishermen, and perhaps catch a view of the ships coming and going from Port Melbourne, many of which would soon carry troops overseas.
- The Kiosk: At the end of the pier, a charming, distinctive Kiosk (the current structure is a later replacement) offered simple refreshments and sweeping views of the bay.
- Luna Park: While the famous Luna Park didn’t open until 1912, it had quickly become a fixture. The exhilarating sights and sounds of the “Big Dipper” and the famous ‘Mr. Moon’ entrance provided a necessary distraction from the looming shadow of the war.
5. Parliament House and Treasury Gardens
In 1915, Melbourne’s Parliament House was still the primary legislative chamber for the newly formed Commonwealth of Australia (Canberra was under construction, not yet operational). This area was the hub of political decision-making.
What You Would See:
- The Architecture: The massive, imposing structure of Parliament House, with its grand steps, symbolized the youthful power of the Australian government. Given the ongoing war, the discussions within were crucial—debates about conscription, finances, and troop deployments were frequent and heated.
- The Gardens: Across the street, the stately Treasury Gardens offered a quieter, more formal alternative to the Botanic Gardens. It was a place for political power brokers to hold discrete meetings, or simply for weary citizens to sit and read the latest casualty lists published in the daily paper.
- The Government Presence: Unlike today, the area was saturated with military staff and government clerks rushing between the various official buildings, underscoring Melbourne’s role as the wartime political capital.
March 1915: A City of Contradictions
Visiting Melbourne in March 1915 was to experience a city operating at full tilt, yet under immense psychological pressure. These five destinations remind us that even as the world prepared for unprecedented conflict, the necessity of culture, leisure, and civic pride remained undeniable.
It was a Melbourne built on certainty and Victorian grandeur, soon to be irrevocably changed by the events of the global conflict that lay just weeks ahead.
Step Into History
What forgotten Melbourne historical site would you most like to visit if you could travel back to 1915? Share your thoughts below!