Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Buenos Aires

Exploring Buenos Aires Beyond the Tourist Trail: 5 Unexpected Adventures

When most travellers picture Buenos Pride, they think of the tango‑filled streets of San Telmo, the grand avenues of Recoleta, and the bustling cafés of Palermo. While those neighborhoods are undeniably iconic, the Argentine capital hides a wealth of lesser‑known gems that reveal a more intimate, quirky, and authentic side of the city.

If you’ve already checked off the classic attractions and still have a craving for something different, these five off‑the‑beaten‑path experiences will take you deeper into Buenos Aires’ soul—without the crowds. Pack a reusable water bottle, wear comfortable shoes, and get ready to wander where locals love to roam.


1. Stroll Through the Hidden Gardens of Jardín Japonés at Night

Why it’s special
Most visitors see Jardín Japonés (the Japanese Garden) during daylight hours, but the garden transforms after sunset. The soft glow of lanterns, the gentle hum of koi swimming under moonlight, and the occasional echo of a distant saxophone from a nearby jazz bar create a magical, almost cinematic atmosphere.

What to do

  • Evening tea ceremony – Join a 30‑minute tea‑ceremony workshop (offered on Fridays at 7 pm). It’s a quiet, meditative experience that includes a short talk on the tea’s cultural meaning.
  • Night photography – The garden’s bridges, stone lanterns, and the iconic tea house make superb low‑light subjects. Bring a tripod and experiment with long‑exposure shots of the koi pond.
  • Moonlit stroll – Follow the moss‑covered stepping stones along the tea garden’s “Shinrin‑yoku” (forest‑bath) path. The silence is punctuated only by the rustle of bamboo and distant traffic, offering a rare moment of urban tranquillity.

Pro tip – The garden closes at 9 pm, but the surrounding Barrio de Palermo’s quiet side streets remain lively with hidden speakeasies. Grab a late‑night empanada from a local bakery and head to Bar Los Galgos for an after‑hours gin cocktail.


2. Take a Mini‑Cruise on the Río de la Plata in a Historic “Patache”

Why it’s special
While most tourists imagine the Río de la Plata as a massive, industrial waterway, a handful of small, restored patache vessels (traditional Argentine sailing boats) offer intimate tours focusing on the river’s ecological and historical narrative.

What to do

  • Eco‑tour (2 hours) – Departing from Puerto Madero’s Muelle 1, this guided cruise visits the “Isla de los Pájaros” bird sanctuary. A naturalist points out native herons, cormorants, and the occasional shy black‑skinned swan.
  • Historical storytelling – On select evenings, a local historian narrates tales of early 19th‑century smugglers, the 1880 “Golden Age” of river trade, and the river’s role in shaping Buenos Aires’ identity.
  • Sunset salsa – Some night cruises feature impromptu tango or milonga lessons on deck, letting you sway to the river’s gentle lull while the city lights flicker in the distance.

Pro tip – Book the “sunset salsa” cruise for a Wednesday or Thursday—mid‑week sails are less crowded, and you’ll enjoy a complimentary glass of Malbec from a boutique vineyard in Mendoza.


3. Explore the Street Art Labyrinth of Colegio Nacional de Arquitectura (CNA)

Why it’s special
The façade of the National School of Architecture (CNA) is a living canvas. Since 2015, a rotating collective of local and international muralists has turned its concrete walls into a kaleidoscope of political commentary, surreal imagery, and whimsical cartoons.

What to do

  • Guided “Graffiti Walk” (45 min) – Follow a self‑guided QR‑code trail that links to short video interviews with the artists. Learn the symbolism behind the giant armadillo, the floating books, and the hidden QR‑code that unlocks a secret Instagram filter.
  • Hands‑on stencil workshop – Every Saturday at 11 am, the school’s community art space offers a free stencil‑making class. Produce a mini‑poster to take home—a souvenir you actually made yourself.
  • Evening “Light‑Up” show – On the first Friday of each month, the building’s façade is illuminated with projection mapping, syncing the murals to a live DJ set. The resulting visual symphony is a must‑see for night‑owls.

Pro tip – Bring a reusable tote bag for the workshop supplies and wear comfortable shoes; the CNA campus is a sprawling, cobblestone‑strewn complex perfect for a leisurely wander.


4. Savour a Secret Supper Club in Barrio Chino (Little China)

Why it’s special
Buenos Aires’ Chinatown, nestled in the heart of Belgrano, is often overlooked by tourists who flock to the more famous “Chinatown” of Buenos Aires (the restaurant strip on Avenida Corrientes). Hidden within the narrow alleys is a rotating supper club run by a collective of Chinese‑Argentine chefs who fuse traditional Sichuan flavours with Argentine ingredients.

What to do

  • Reserve a seat – The club operates on a “by invitation only” model. Sign up on their WeChat group or follow their Instagram (@secretchinasabado) to receive a secret code for reservations.
  • Taste the “Chimichurri Dumplings” – A standout dish that blends Argentine chimichurri sauce with delicate pork dumplings, served with a smoky paprika‑infused broth.
  • Cultural exchange – After dinner, the chef hosts a short talk about the migration story of Chinese families arriving in Buenos Aires in the early 1900s, followed by a live erhu (Chinese violin) performance.

Pro tip – Arrive a few minutes early to explore the nearby Plaza de la China, a tiny garden with a bronze statue of a dragon. The surrounding streets are lined with hidden tea houses where you can enjoy a post‑dinner té mate infused with jasmine.


5. Ride the Vintage Tram and take a short walk to the local Museum in La Boca

Why it’s special
Most visitors associate La Boca with colourful houses and the famous Caminito street. Few know that a vintage 1920s tram line still operates on a short, scenic route that ends at the Museum of Industry—a former meat‑packing plant turned interactive exhibition space.

What to do

  • Tram ride (20 min) – Board at the historic Tram Station Plaza de la República (a modest brick building with a tiny ticket booth). The tram clatters through cobblestone streets, passing hidden murals and small workshops.
  • Museum tour – Visit the museum that showcases local history.
  • Coffee at the café.


Bonus: How to Weave These Experiences Into One Seamless Itinerary

DayMorningAfternoonEvening
1Night stroll in Jardín Japonés (7 pm)Late‑night empanada & cocktail in PalermoRest
2Mini‑cruise on Río de la Plata (2 pm)Walk along Puerto MaderoLight‑up show at CNA (9 pm)
3Graffiti walk at CNA (10 am)Stencil workshop (11 am)Dinner at secret Chinatown supper club (8 pm)
4Tram ride and walk to La Boca Museum Museum tour & coffeeFree night – explore local bars in La Boca
5Free day – revisit favorite spots or relax in a parkOptional bike ride along the Ecological ReserveCelebrate with a tango show in a hidden speakeasy

Final Thoughts

Buenos Aires is a city of layers—each neighbourhood, street, and riverbank offers a story waiting to be discovered. By stepping off the traditional tourist map, you’ll uncover hidden gardens that whisper at night, historic vessels that glide through the river’s heart, and culinary experiences that fuse continents.

These five “road‑less‑travelled” adventures give you a taste of the city’s creative, industrial, and multicultural spirit, inviting you to see Buenos Aires not just as a destination, but as a living, breathing tapestry of stories.

Ready to explore? Pack your curiosity, charge your camera, and let the hidden corners of Buenos Aires become your personal playground.

Happy travels!

Writing a book in 365 days – 358

Day 358

The Doyen of Noir: What Raymond Chandler’s Life, Style, and Philip Marlowe Teach Us About Storytelling

When you think of classic American crime fiction, the name that instantly flickers to mind is Raymond Chandler – the heavyweight champion of hard‑boiled noir whose razor‑sharp prose still feels fresh after more than eighty years. Chandler didn’t just write detective stories; he invented a literary atmosphere that turned a gritty, rain‑slick Los Angeles into a character in its own right and gave us the unforgettable gumshoe Philip Marlowe.

But behind the sleek dialogues and smoky tavern scenes lay a life riddled with missteps, self‑destruction, and surprising twists. By digging into Chandler’s history, his flaws, and his unmistakable style, we can extract timeless lessons for writers, marketers, and anyone who wants to make an impact with words.


1. A Rocky Road to the Pen

MilestoneWhat HappenedWhy It Matters
Early Years (1888‑1912)Born in Chicago, moved to Colorado, a peripatetic childhood. Lost his mother at 12 and was sent to live with relatives in England.Early displacement instilled a sense of alienation that later seeped into his urban landscapes.
Oil‑Field Engineer (1912‑1932)Spent two decades drilling in Texas and Mexico, clashing with corporate bureaucracy and the harsh desert.The “outsider‑against‑system” mindset is a core theme in his novels.
World War I ServiceServed in the U.S. Army, briefly, then returned to the oil business.Experience with hierarchy and authority fed his skepticism of power.
The Downward Spiral (1932‑1934)The Great Depression wrecked the oil market; Chandler’s marriage collapsed. He turned to alcohol, gambling, and a series of odd jobs.The personal chaos sharpened his eye for the darker side of human nature—fuel for the noir aesthetic.
Breakthrough with The Big Sleep (1939)At 49, Chandler finally published his first novel, introducing Marlowe.Proved it’s never too late to start a successful second career.

Takeaway: Chandler’s path to literary fame wasn’t a straight line. It was a series of failures, relocations, and personal battles that forced him to confront his own darkness. For creators, this teaches that authentic storytelling often springs from lived adversity—the harder the journey, the richer the material.


2. The Signature Chandler Style

a. The “Hard‑Boiled” Voice

  • Economy of Language: Chandler favoured short, punchy sentences that carried weight.
    Example: “She was a cheap, cheap girl, and the cheapness rubbed off on the rest of us.”
  • Wry Similes & Metaphors: He turned ordinary observations into unforgettable images.
    Example: “He looked as if he’d been run over by a train and then dragged through a sandstorm.”
  • Moral Ambiguity: The lines between good and evil are blurred; even the hero has flaws.

b. Los Angeles as a Character

  • Concrete Details: From neon signs to desert highways, Chandler painted the city with a painter’s precision.
  • Atmospheric Consistency: Rain, fog, and darkness aren’t just weather—they’re mood setters that echo the protagonist’s inner turmoil.

c. Dialogue That Cuts

  • Witty Banter: Conversations feel like chess matches—each line a strategic move.
  • Understatement: Frequently, what isn’t said speaks louder than the spoken word.

Takeaway: Chandler’s style is a masterclass in restraint. He shows us that brevity, vivid imagery, and a strong sense of place can create a world that feels larger than the sum of its pages.


3. Philip Marlowe: The Archetype That Still Resonates

TraitHow Chandler Crafted ItModern Echo
World‑Weary CynicMarlowe narrates with a mix of sarcasm and weary empathy.Anti‑heroes in film/TV (e.g., Breaking BadThe Wire).
Moral CompassDespite his jaded outlook, Marlowe adheres to an internal code of honor.Brands that position themselves as “honest rebels” (e.g., Patagonia).
Lone WolfHe operates alone, skeptical of institutions.Freelance creatives, solopreneurs, and “maker” culture.
Sharp Observational SkillsHe notices the smallest details—a stray cigarette, a shaky handshake.Data‑driven marketers who derive insight from micro‑behaviors.

Marlowe’s lasting appeal lies in his human contradictions: tough yet tender, cynical yet idealistic. He’s a reminder that complex, flawed protagonists are far more compelling than flawless heroes.


4. What We Can Learn From Chandler’s Legacy

1. Embrace Your “Not‑So‑Great” Past

  • Your setbacks are a goldmine for narrative tension. Chandler turned his own bitterness into a voice that resonated with millions.
  • Practical tip: Keep a “failure journal.” Record moments that felt humiliating or painful; later, mine them for raw material.

2. Cultivate a Distinct Atmosphere

  • Whether you’re writing a novel or drafting a brand story, the setting is a silent storyteller.
  • Practical tip: Before writing, create a sensory map: list five smells, three sounds, and two visual motifs that define your world.

3. Write With the Economy of a Detective’s Pistol

  • Every word should earn its place. Trim the fluff, sharpen the similes, and let subtext do the heavy lifting.
  • Exercise: Take a paragraph you love and rewrite it using 30% fewer words without losing meaning.

4. Give Your Hero a Moral Compass, Even If It’s Bent

  • Audiences crave characters who stand for something, even if that something is a personal code that defies society.
  • Implementation: Define your protagonist’s “one rule they’ll never break” and let it guide every decision.

5. Let Dialogue Do the Detective Work

  • Bad dialogue is a dead giveaway of lazy writing. Let characters reveal plot, personality, and tension through how they speak—not just what they say.
  • Practice: Write a scene where two characters talk about a crime without mentioning the word “crime” at all.

5. Bringing It All Home: Your Own Noir Blueprint

StepActionOutcome
1. Harvest Personal GritList three moments of personal failure.Source of authentic conflict.
2. Choose a “City”Identify a physical or metaphorical setting that mirrors your theme.Creates immersive atmosphere.
3. Define the Hero’s CodeWrite a one‑sentence creed for your protagonist.Anchors moral ambiguity.
4. Draft with a “Marlowe Lens”Write every scene as if you’re a detective observing details.Boosts vividness and tension.
5. Polish for PunchCut words, sharpen similes, test dialogue for subtext.Delivers Chandler‑style impact.

Final Thoughts

Raymond Chandler’s journey from oil‑field engineer to the reigning monarch of noir proves that a writer’s personal turbulence can become a powerhouse of creativity. His blend of hard‑boiled prose, atmospheric detail, and a morally complex hero continues to shape everything from modern crime thrillers to brand narratives that crave authenticity.

If you can channel Chandler’s willingness to stare into his own darkness, harness it into a distinctive voice, and give your audience a world they can see, smell, and feel, you’ll not just write a story—you’ll craft an experience that endures.

Take a page from the master: own your scars, paint your city, and let your protagonist walk the line between the shadows and the light. The result? A story that, like Chandler’s, never truly fades.

Writing a book in 365 days – 357

Day 357

Writing exercise

He didn’t mind his job; it was all the work that bothered him.

The view from the balcony took in a large slice of the Mediterranean, the cloudless sky blue, the near calm ocean blue and the breeze refreshing.

“Your five minutes are up,” the voice from inside the room broke my reverie, that idea that life would be amazing, right here, if I were a multi-millionaire without a care in the world.

The voice belonged to Sonya, one of the undersecretaries of the actual multi-millionaire that we both worked for.

“This event isn’t going to plan itself.”

I shrugged.  She was right.  She flew into Nice the previous afternoon, and I arrived this morning.  The event was in two days on the yacht, which was arriving at Antibes sometime early tomorrow.

Neither of us was going to get any sleep tonight.

I poked my head in the door and looked at her.  Ready to jump into the sea, except that was never going to happen.  The closest either of us would see water was the hotel swimming pool.

If we were lucky.

“How can it possibly be that I have visited this place seven times, and this five minutes is the longest time I’ve had to stare at the water?”

“It’s the job.  We didn’t sign up for Sun and fun, Harry.  It will happen, one day.  Maybe.  Now, where did you say the Benjamins are?”

I knew when I took on the role of Events Manager, it was going to be hard work.  Seven months after the boss fired the last manager over a missed detail, he simply pointed at me and said, “Do a better job of it, Masters, or else.”

I didn’t ask what the or else was.

And I hadn’t made a mess of it yet.

That was largely because of Sonya, and the truth was she was better at it than me, and she should have the job. 

Heading to Antibes and the international dock for private yachts, we arrived just as it was tying up and about to lower the gangway.  The yacht had just arrived from Marseilles, where some engine repairs were effected.

God help anyone if the engines failed while the party raged as we slowly moved through the Mediterranean waters, out and back over the course of four hours.

The boss’s daughter was having her 21st birthday party.  It had to be perfect, and would be, if her current so-called boyfriend didn’t turn up.  He was on the list and not expected.  Skiing with his friends was more important.

“What’s the latest on Bozo?”  Sonya refused to call him anything else, not after he tried to schmooze her.  I wanted to hit him.  She said not to make a scene.

It was, she said, just another day in paradise.

“Hopefully, he’ll stay in St Moritz.  Mel extended an invitation, and he didn’t reply.  She’s not happy.”

“That makes one of us.”

“I’ll sort him if you want me to.”

She shook her head.  “He’s not worth it.”

The second officer came down the gangway to greet us. 

“Giles.”

“Harry, Sonya.  Shouldn’t you two be tucked up in bed?”

I’m not sure the inference was that we should be together.  We had made sure at all times our relationship was purely business.

There was no time for anything else.

“We never sleep,” Sonya said.  “I take it we are all shipshape and Bristol fashion, even if I don’t know what that means.”

“Scrubbed from top to bottom.  The house staff have prepared the staterooms and your quarters.  If you’d like a quick inspection…”

Silly question.  If there was a problem, I wanted to know before it became a bigger problem.

People look at those super yachts, the yachts that look like small ocean liners and gasp in awesome, thinking how lovely it would be to travel on one.

Sorry, not all it’s cracked up to be, if you’re not the owner or a guest.

After two hours sleep, if it could be called that, I had to front the ship’s staff, dressed in their proper work clothes for an inspection, and then a run down of the program, starting with getting the guests aboard, attending to the selection few who would staying after the party, to the phases of the event, catering, drinks, speeches, dancing, and post party wind down.

Every minute for the 24 hours was planned, with contingencies for every conceivable disaster.

That took four hours.  Then I was off to the airport to greet the boss, his third wife, and two daughters by his first wife on his private jet. 

The same jet Sonya and I, and a half dozen personnel for the yacht arrived three days ago.

They could be called perks if we got to enjoy the moment.  Well, maybe for a minute or two.

Three Rolls-Royce cars were waiting on the dock, having arrived from the mansion in Monaco, overlooking the sea with its own private beach.

Each of the houses in England, France, Austria and Monaco had its own staff and transport.  I was still negotiating with the various governments to build landing strips for the jet.  It wasn’t going well.

“You know that this is going to be like a three-ring circus.”

Jacob, the chauffeur, and a man with a warped sense of humour waited this time until I closed the door before driving off.

“You know something I don’t?”

“Henry said Mel exploded when Bozo said he wasn’t coming.  She asked Daddy to put a fire under him, and he said she could do better and stop wasting her time.”

Henry was the English chauffeur.  It was not secret Daddy was done with Bozo.  He wanted her to make something of herself, she wanted to party and spend her allowance. 

I felt sorry for the new wife, barely older than Mel, and having to put up with both daughters’ contempt for their father’s choice.  And the tabloids that called her a gold digger.

Who would want to be rich and infamous?

“So, we’re expecting the sulks from Mel, sarcasm from Billie, tears from the wife, and bad temper from the boss.”

“And that will be a good day.”  He looked at me with a wry grin.  “Just like herding sheep, boyo.  I’m glad I’m just the chauffeur.”

I was standing at the bottom of the steps waiting for the Chief Secretary, who always travelled with the boss.  She would come put first and wait with me.  I was there simply because the boss asked me.

Sometimes he summoned me aboard.  Not today.

The main hostess, yes, he insisted on that title, appeared at the top of the stairs, then the wife, the two daughters, then the boss.

No one spoke.

The boss and the secretary took the first car, the wife and the eldest daughter Billie, took the second, I got Mel.  The seating arrangements hit my cell phone before the jet’s door opened.

It left me wondering why I drew the short straw.

Mel stood by the car, not far from the driver, ready to open the door.  The pilots came down and told me they were to wait until further orders.  It explained the fourth car, which had just arrived.

They would be staying near Nice airport.

Mel was waiting for me, showing no inclination to be on her way or upset that she was stuck with me.  It wasn’t the first time I had to make sure she did as she was told.

“How did you draw the short straw?”

“The age-old trick, all the straws were short.  You are not happy, are you, Melanie?”

“You should be calling me Miss Albright, Harry.”

“Perhaps if you were a stuck-up bitch, Mel, but you’re not.”

“I could have you fired.”

“Please.  Then I might actually get to sleep longer than two hours.”  I nodded to the chauffeur and he opened the door.  “Get in, and whinge away.  I’m all ears.”

She glared at me, and I braced for an incoming salvo.  She shrugged.  “What’s the point, you’re just Daddy’s puppet.”

“Wow.  And here me thinking the strings were invisible.”

A half smile.  Good enough.

We drove for ten minutes.  She stared out the window, reflecting back at me, a furrowed brow.

“Daddy is unreasonable.”

Was I supposed to agree, or say something deep and meaningful?  Like any conversation with a woman, I couldn’t see the land mines I was about to step on.

“How?”

“He expects me to find a nice boy.  There are none.”

“Change where you’re looking.”

She looked at me.  “What’s that supposed to mean?”

“If you look in a dumpster, all you will find is trash.  Most, but not all, nightclubs are not the places to find a prospective boyfriend.  So, putting that aside for the moment, my mother, whom I always considered the fountain of wisdom, once said that you had to find someone with whom you could be friends first, hang out, talk, do stuff, but no passion or sex, or worst of all, have expectations.”

“That’s impossible.  You know what guys are like?”

“A lot of them, yes, but you’ll know when you find the right one.  That’s all the advice I can give you.”

“Is that how it is with you and Sonya?”

My turn to glare at her.  “No.  We work together.  You know as well as I do that type of relationship between employees is verboten.”

“But you like her.”

“I like everybody.”

“Even my sister?”

Now she was just playing games.  “She is an acquired taste, but even her.  Do you want me to throw Bozo overboard if he comes?”

Another half smile.  It was a calculated risk calling him Bozo. 

“No.  I can do that.  You just arrange for some sharks to be waiting for him when he hits the water.”

“As you wish, Miss Albright.”

Sonya was waiting for me in the small conference room, the table covered in paperwork.  It was clear her superior had dumped everything on her and gone up for drinks with the boss.

I had just delivered the prodigal daughter.

“Mel’s onto us.”

“What?”

“She thinks we’re having a fling.”

“When?  We barely have time to breathe.”

“That’s what I told her.  Has anything changed?”  Lots of paper meant trouble.

“A few more guests.  Bozo’s coming.  Wants to be picked up at the airport.  He actually thought we’d send the jet for him.  You want to tell Melanie?”

“Let it be a surprise.  Should I go up, see what’s going on?”

“Not unless you’re a glutton for punishment.”

My cell phone buzzed.  Message from the boss.

“Too late.  I’ve been summoned.  Please tell me everything is in order.”

“Until it isn’t, but as of now, it is.”

I took a deep breath and headed upstairs, through the main lounge and out onto the promenade deck, where a dozen people were gathered, wait staff mingling with drinks and canapes.  Dinner would be served later.

The boss was talking to several friends, their wives ensconced, unwillingly with the new Mrs Albright, perhaps disappointed with his choice but making the best of it. Billie was with her current boyfriend, a tech billionaire, maybe; no one was sure what he did, and Mel was gazing out over the dock at the other, smaller boats.

Or not.

Mrs Albright excused herself and came over.  I did not presume to move from the entrance to the deck until summoned.

“Harry.”

She was softly spoken and well-mannered.  She knew she was in the middle of a minefield, not of her choosing, but always keeping her composure.

I had no idea how she managed.

“Mrs Albright.”

“Cecelia, Harry.  We are past the formal stage now..”

I had given her the spiel on protocol expected from the employees, and such familiarity was frowned upon.

“If only.  What can I do for you?”

“Melanie?  She was upset coming over. Is she alright?”

We both looked at her, staring at nothing in particular.

“Just the usual rich girl blues.  I’m sure she’ll grow out of it, eventually.  How are you faring on the good ship lollipop?”

A frown, then a half smile.  We had an understanding, or maybe that was I had an understanding, she only understood sometimes.

“I want to say it’s all new and exciting, but…”

“The old guard is making noises.”

“Not today mention our old friends in the press gallery.”

“Tomorrow the Royal Family will screw up, and bingo, you are no longer front page news.  They’ll get over it.  And you will too.   The only two people who matter are you and the boss.  Everything else is just while noise.”

“Stay for a drink?” A waiter hovered with a tray of champagne.  The real stuff.

“I’d love to, but I have to solve the mystery of the missing beetroots before tomorrow comes and the salads are ruined.”

“The mystery of the missing beetroot, eh?”

“Never a dull moment down on the ordinary deck, Mrs Albright.  Never a dull moment.”

I was wandering the decks at 2am after seeing the guests off the ship and into their cars, and the guests staying aboard safely to their cabins, then got a bite to eat in the crew dining room.

A ca4 pulled up at the end of the gangway, and a figure got out, and all but ran in the gangway, where on deck he came up against the bosun acting as guard.

I arrived just as he asked for ID.  He had a list, and if you were not on the list, you were back on shore.

It was Bozo.

That was the fastest I’d ever seen anyone get from St Moritz to Antibes ever.

“Boris.  You’re early.”

The bosun was still looking at his list.

“Harry.  I assume Melanie is on board?”

“She is.”

The bosun sighed.  Perhaps we were hoping Bozo’s name wasn’t on the list, and he could have the pleasure of throwing him overboard.

I know I wanted to.

“His name is on the list.”

“Good.”  He started to head into the cabin when the bosun grabbed his arm. 

“You ain’t going anywhere without an escort.”

“Good heavens, man, I’m not a spy.  Harry?”

“I’ll take him.”  Scruffy and entitled.  I so wanted to throw him overboard.  “Follow me.”

I took him up to the stateroom deck and to Melanie’s cabin.  When I knocked on the door, I stood back and left Boris on the frame.

When she opened the door, she gasped, the slapped him across the face.  It was hard enough to make me wince.

“What was that for?”

“Being an arse.”  She stepped aside, and he went in and closed the door behind him.

Job done.

Of course, if only things ran smoothly.  But the best laid plans of mice and men never did.

5:47 am, I woke to a scream.  It took three minutes to reach the stateroom deck and the origin of the scream.

Mel’s stateroom.

The door was open, and Mel was outside.  She was distraught.

As well as being covered in blood, and a rather nasty knife in one hand.

A glimpse inside her room.  Bozo was equally covered in blood, and at a guess, dead.  Mrs Albright was checking, looking out at us and shaking her head.

I looked at Mel.  It was not the face of a murderer.  She was ashen.

“I didn’t do it.  I didn’t do anything.  He was alive when I went down to the galley to get some more champagne.  When I got back, he was on the floor, the knife sticking out of his chest.  I thought I pulled it out.”

The boss arrived.  “Lawyers and police, in that order.”

I didn’t think it was the right time to ask if the birthday party was off.

Then, suddenly, Melanie fainted.

“Revise that order, Doctor, then lawyers, then police.”  To me, he said, “Rouse everyone.  I want to know where they were during the last half hour.  And where was the guard at the gangway?”

So much for getting to bed.

At least now I would get to run my own murder investigation.

©  Charles Heath  2025

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Buenos Aires

Exploring Buenos Aires Beyond the Tourist Trail: 5 Unexpected Adventures

When most travellers picture Buenos Pride, they think of the tango‑filled streets of San Telmo, the grand avenues of Recoleta, and the bustling cafés of Palermo. While those neighborhoods are undeniably iconic, the Argentine capital hides a wealth of lesser‑known gems that reveal a more intimate, quirky, and authentic side of the city.

If you’ve already checked off the classic attractions and still have a craving for something different, these five off‑the‑beaten‑path experiences will take you deeper into Buenos Aires’ soul—without the crowds. Pack a reusable water bottle, wear comfortable shoes, and get ready to wander where locals love to roam.


1. Stroll Through the Hidden Gardens of Jardín Japonés at Night

Why it’s special
Most visitors see Jardín Japonés (the Japanese Garden) during daylight hours, but the garden transforms after sunset. The soft glow of lanterns, the gentle hum of koi swimming under moonlight, and the occasional echo of a distant saxophone from a nearby jazz bar create a magical, almost cinematic atmosphere.

What to do

  • Evening tea ceremony – Join a 30‑minute tea‑ceremony workshop (offered on Fridays at 7 pm). It’s a quiet, meditative experience that includes a short talk on the tea’s cultural meaning.
  • Night photography – The garden’s bridges, stone lanterns, and the iconic tea house make superb low‑light subjects. Bring a tripod and experiment with long‑exposure shots of the koi pond.
  • Moonlit stroll – Follow the moss‑covered stepping stones along the tea garden’s “Shinrin‑yoku” (forest‑bath) path. The silence is punctuated only by the rustle of bamboo and distant traffic, offering a rare moment of urban tranquillity.

Pro tip – The garden closes at 9 pm, but the surrounding Barrio de Palermo’s quiet side streets remain lively with hidden speakeasies. Grab a late‑night empanada from a local bakery and head to Bar Los Galgos for an after‑hours gin cocktail.


2. Take a Mini‑Cruise on the Río de la Plata in a Historic “Patache”

Why it’s special
While most tourists imagine the Río de la Plata as a massive, industrial waterway, a handful of small, restored patache vessels (traditional Argentine sailing boats) offer intimate tours focusing on the river’s ecological and historical narrative.

What to do

  • Eco‑tour (2 hours) – Departing from Puerto Madero’s Muelle 1, this guided cruise visits the “Isla de los Pájaros” bird sanctuary. A naturalist points out native herons, cormorants, and the occasional shy black‑skinned swan.
  • Historical storytelling – On select evenings, a local historian narrates tales of early 19th‑century smugglers, the 1880 “Golden Age” of river trade, and the river’s role in shaping Buenos Aires’ identity.
  • Sunset salsa – Some night cruises feature impromptu tango or milonga lessons on deck, letting you sway to the river’s gentle lull while the city lights flicker in the distance.

Pro tip – Book the “sunset salsa” cruise for a Wednesday or Thursday—mid‑week sails are less crowded, and you’ll enjoy a complimentary glass of Malbec from a boutique vineyard in Mendoza.


3. Explore the Street Art Labyrinth of Colegio Nacional de Arquitectura (CNA)

Why it’s special
The façade of the National School of Architecture (CNA) is a living canvas. Since 2015, a rotating collective of local and international muralists has turned its concrete walls into a kaleidoscope of political commentary, surreal imagery, and whimsical cartoons.

What to do

  • Guided “Graffiti Walk” (45 min) – Follow a self‑guided QR‑code trail that links to short video interviews with the artists. Learn the symbolism behind the giant armadillo, the floating books, and the hidden QR‑code that unlocks a secret Instagram filter.
  • Hands‑on stencil workshop – Every Saturday at 11 am, the school’s community art space offers a free stencil‑making class. Produce a mini‑poster to take home—a souvenir you actually made yourself.
  • Evening “Light‑Up” show – On the first Friday of each month, the building’s façade is illuminated with projection mapping, syncing the murals to a live DJ set. The resulting visual symphony is a must‑see for night‑owls.

Pro tip – Bring a reusable tote bag for the workshop supplies and wear comfortable shoes; the CNA campus is a sprawling, cobblestone‑strewn complex perfect for a leisurely wander.


4. Savour a Secret Supper Club in Barrio Chino (Little China)

Why it’s special
Buenos Aires’ Chinatown, nestled in the heart of Belgrano, is often overlooked by tourists who flock to the more famous “Chinatown” of Buenos Aires (the restaurant strip on Avenida Corrientes). Hidden within the narrow alleys is a rotating supper club run by a collective of Chinese‑Argentine chefs who fuse traditional Sichuan flavours with Argentine ingredients.

What to do

  • Reserve a seat – The club operates on a “by invitation only” model. Sign up on their WeChat group or follow their Instagram (@secretchinasabado) to receive a secret code for reservations.
  • Taste the “Chimichurri Dumplings” – A standout dish that blends Argentine chimichurri sauce with delicate pork dumplings, served with a smoky paprika‑infused broth.
  • Cultural exchange – After dinner, the chef hosts a short talk about the migration story of Chinese families arriving in Buenos Aires in the early 1900s, followed by a live erhu (Chinese violin) performance.

Pro tip – Arrive a few minutes early to explore the nearby Plaza de la China, a tiny garden with a bronze statue of a dragon. The surrounding streets are lined with hidden tea houses where you can enjoy a post‑dinner té mate infused with jasmine.


5. Ride the Vintage Tram and take a short walk to the local Museum in La Boca

Why it’s special
Most visitors associate La Boca with colourful houses and the famous Caminito street. Few know that a vintage 1920s tram line still operates on a short, scenic route that ends at the Museum of Industry—a former meat‑packing plant turned interactive exhibition space.

What to do

  • Tram ride (20 min) – Board at the historic Tram Station Plaza de la República (a modest brick building with a tiny ticket booth). The tram clatters through cobblestone streets, passing hidden murals and small workshops.
  • Museum tour – Visit the museum that showcases local history.
  • Coffee at the café.


Bonus: How to Weave These Experiences Into One Seamless Itinerary

DayMorningAfternoonEvening
1Night stroll in Jardín Japonés (7 pm)Late‑night empanada & cocktail in PalermoRest
2Mini‑cruise on Río de la Plata (2 pm)Walk along Puerto MaderoLight‑up show at CNA (9 pm)
3Graffiti walk at CNA (10 am)Stencil workshop (11 am)Dinner at secret Chinatown supper club (8 pm)
4Tram ride and walk to La Boca Museum Museum tour & coffeeFree night – explore local bars in La Boca
5Free day – revisit favorite spots or relax in a parkOptional bike ride along the Ecological ReserveCelebrate with a tango show in a hidden speakeasy

Final Thoughts

Buenos Aires is a city of layers—each neighbourhood, street, and riverbank offers a story waiting to be discovered. By stepping off the traditional tourist map, you’ll uncover hidden gardens that whisper at night, historic vessels that glide through the river’s heart, and culinary experiences that fuse continents.

These five “road‑less‑travelled” adventures give you a taste of the city’s creative, industrial, and multicultural spirit, inviting you to see Buenos Aires not just as a destination, but as a living, breathing tapestry of stories.

Ready to explore? Pack your curiosity, charge your camera, and let the hidden corners of Buenos Aires become your personal playground.

Happy travels!

Top food unique to Philadelphia

A Philly cheesesteak sandwich for one

A Philadelphia Culinary Journey: From Iconic Cheesesteaks to Hidden Local Delights

Philadelphia isn’t just the City of Brotherly Love—it’s a food lover’s paradise. From the legendary feud between two cheesesteak titans to the sweet, sticky charm of water ice and soft pretzels, Philly’s culinary scene is as rich in history as its cheesesteaks are in cheese. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned Philly fan, this guide will lead you to the must-try spots and dishes that define the city’s iconic food culture.


The Cheesesteak: Philadelphia’s Crown Jewel

No trip to Philly is complete without a slice of cheesesteak, the city’s most famous sandwich. The origin story is as dramatic as any Philly sports rivalry: in the 1930s, a hot dog vendor named Pat Olivieri switched to serving steaks after a meat shortage. Meanwhile, Geno’s opened in 1952, and the two shops sparked a decades-long feud that culminated in a memorable 1980s courtship where both moved to the same block to outcompete each other. Today, their rivalry lives on, with fans passionately defending their favourites.

Top Spots to Satisfy the Craving:

  1. Pat’s King of Steaks
    • Why It’s Iconic: The original “wit everything” (peppers and onions) classic, served with ultra-chunky, melted Cheez Whiz.
    • Pro Tip: Arrive early to skip the lines, but be prepared for the wait—this is part of the Philly cheesesteak pilgrimage.
  2. Geno’s Steaks
    • Why It’s Iconic: Known for a more tender, buttery steak and a slightly sweeter cheese blend.
    • Pro Tip: Ask for a “regular” cut instead of chopped for a denser bite.
  3. Jim’s Steaks
    • Why It’s Iconic: A third contender in the cheesesteak holy war, Jim’s offers a thick slice of ribeye drenched in cheese.
    • Pro Tip: The “Big Cheese” sandwich is legendary—order with a side of soft pretzel sticks to balance the richness.

Beyond the Cheesesteak: Philly’s Secret Food Treasures

While the cheesesteak reigns supreme, Philly’s culinary scene offers more treasures for the adventurous palate.

1. Philly Hoagie

  • A hoagie is not a cheesesteak—Philly purists will clarify this! This footlong hero sandwich is layered with deli meats (like Genoa salami and capicola), provolone, lettuce, tomatoes, and olive salad, all smothered in olive oil and oregano.
  • Where to Go: Hoagie Haven in South Philly for a quintessential take.

2. Soft Pretzels

  • Philly’s pretzels are salted, chewy, and served in six-packs for $1. They’re perfect for noshing on the go.
  • Where to Go: DiNic’s on the corner of Broad and Sansom offers a pretzel shaped like a Philly love letter.

3. Water Ice

  • A Philly twist on soft serve, water ice is shaved, layered with syrup, and packed with flavour (strawberry, cherry, and banana pudding are favourites).
  • Where to Go: Frank’s Famous Water Ice at the Italian Market for a burst of nostalgia.

4. Tastykakes

  • These dense, fruit-filled desserts have been a local treat since 1930. Think banana splits, cherry clouds, and chocolate chess pies.
  • Where to Go: Your local corner store—they’re as much a part of Philly as cheesesteaks.

5. The Italian Market

  • A vibrant, family-owned marketplace in South Philly, the Italian Market is a foodie’s playground. Here, you’ll find fresh seafood, handcrafted pastas, and the legendary “Cheesesteak Sauce” to make at home.

Tips for the Ultimate Foodie Experience

  • Brace for Lines: Pat’s and Geno’s can be packed, but the wait is part of the experience.
  • Go Local: Try “wit cheese” (no cheese) for a classic steak, or “wit everything” for a spicy, oozing mess.
  • Walk It Off: Pair your meal with a stroll through the South Street or Society Hill neighbourhoods—perfect for digesting all that cheese and carbs.

Philadelphia’s food scene is a love letter to tradition, bold flavours, and fierce pride. Whether you’re savouring a cheese-drenched steak or savouring a fistful of pretzels at the Italian Market, every bite tells a story. So, grab your appetite, roll up your sleeves, and let Philly’s culinary magic take over. After all, in a city where food is love, you can’t go wrong.

Bon appétit, and Sláinte! 🥬🍖

Writing a book in 365 days – 357

Day 357

Writing exercise

He didn’t mind his job; it was all the work that bothered him.

The view from the balcony took in a large slice of the Mediterranean, the cloudless sky blue, the near calm ocean blue and the breeze refreshing.

“Your five minutes are up,” the voice from inside the room broke my reverie, that idea that life would be amazing, right here, if I were a multi-millionaire without a care in the world.

The voice belonged to Sonya, one of the undersecretaries of the actual multi-millionaire that we both worked for.

“This event isn’t going to plan itself.”

I shrugged.  She was right.  She flew into Nice the previous afternoon, and I arrived this morning.  The event was in two days on the yacht, which was arriving at Antibes sometime early tomorrow.

Neither of us was going to get any sleep tonight.

I poked my head in the door and looked at her.  Ready to jump into the sea, except that was never going to happen.  The closest either of us would see water was the hotel swimming pool.

If we were lucky.

“How can it possibly be that I have visited this place seven times, and this five minutes is the longest time I’ve had to stare at the water?”

“It’s the job.  We didn’t sign up for Sun and fun, Harry.  It will happen, one day.  Maybe.  Now, where did you say the Benjamins are?”

I knew when I took on the role of Events Manager, it was going to be hard work.  Seven months after the boss fired the last manager over a missed detail, he simply pointed at me and said, “Do a better job of it, Masters, or else.”

I didn’t ask what the or else was.

And I hadn’t made a mess of it yet.

That was largely because of Sonya, and the truth was she was better at it than me, and she should have the job. 

Heading to Antibes and the international dock for private yachts, we arrived just as it was tying up and about to lower the gangway.  The yacht had just arrived from Marseilles, where some engine repairs were effected.

God help anyone if the engines failed while the party raged as we slowly moved through the Mediterranean waters, out and back over the course of four hours.

The boss’s daughter was having her 21st birthday party.  It had to be perfect, and would be, if her current so-called boyfriend didn’t turn up.  He was on the list and not expected.  Skiing with his friends was more important.

“What’s the latest on Bozo?”  Sonya refused to call him anything else, not after he tried to schmooze her.  I wanted to hit him.  She said not to make a scene.

It was, she said, just another day in paradise.

“Hopefully, he’ll stay in St Moritz.  Mel extended an invitation, and he didn’t reply.  She’s not happy.”

“That makes one of us.”

“I’ll sort him if you want me to.”

She shook her head.  “He’s not worth it.”

The second officer came down the gangway to greet us. 

“Giles.”

“Harry, Sonya.  Shouldn’t you two be tucked up in bed?”

I’m not sure the inference was that we should be together.  We had made sure at all times our relationship was purely business.

There was no time for anything else.

“We never sleep,” Sonya said.  “I take it we are all shipshape and Bristol fashion, even if I don’t know what that means.”

“Scrubbed from top to bottom.  The house staff have prepared the staterooms and your quarters.  If you’d like a quick inspection…”

Silly question.  If there was a problem, I wanted to know before it became a bigger problem.

People look at those super yachts, the yachts that look like small ocean liners and gasp in awesome, thinking how lovely it would be to travel on one.

Sorry, not all it’s cracked up to be, if you’re not the owner or a guest.

After two hours sleep, if it could be called that, I had to front the ship’s staff, dressed in their proper work clothes for an inspection, and then a run down of the program, starting with getting the guests aboard, attending to the selection few who would staying after the party, to the phases of the event, catering, drinks, speeches, dancing, and post party wind down.

Every minute for the 24 hours was planned, with contingencies for every conceivable disaster.

That took four hours.  Then I was off to the airport to greet the boss, his third wife, and two daughters by his first wife on his private jet. 

The same jet Sonya and I, and a half dozen personnel for the yacht arrived three days ago.

They could be called perks if we got to enjoy the moment.  Well, maybe for a minute or two.

Three Rolls-Royce cars were waiting on the dock, having arrived from the mansion in Monaco, overlooking the sea with its own private beach.

Each of the houses in England, France, Austria and Monaco had its own staff and transport.  I was still negotiating with the various governments to build landing strips for the jet.  It wasn’t going well.

“You know that this is going to be like a three-ring circus.”

Jacob, the chauffeur, and a man with a warped sense of humour waited this time until I closed the door before driving off.

“You know something I don’t?”

“Henry said Mel exploded when Bozo said he wasn’t coming.  She asked Daddy to put a fire under him, and he said she could do better and stop wasting her time.”

Henry was the English chauffeur.  It was not secret Daddy was done with Bozo.  He wanted her to make something of herself, she wanted to party and spend her allowance. 

I felt sorry for the new wife, barely older than Mel, and having to put up with both daughters’ contempt for their father’s choice.  And the tabloids that called her a gold digger.

Who would want to be rich and infamous?

“So, we’re expecting the sulks from Mel, sarcasm from Billie, tears from the wife, and bad temper from the boss.”

“And that will be a good day.”  He looked at me with a wry grin.  “Just like herding sheep, boyo.  I’m glad I’m just the chauffeur.”

I was standing at the bottom of the steps waiting for the Chief Secretary, who always travelled with the boss.  She would come put first and wait with me.  I was there simply because the boss asked me.

Sometimes he summoned me aboard.  Not today.

The main hostess, yes, he insisted on that title, appeared at the top of the stairs, then the wife, the two daughters, then the boss.

No one spoke.

The boss and the secretary took the first car, the wife and the eldest daughter Billie, took the second, I got Mel.  The seating arrangements hit my cell phone before the jet’s door opened.

It left me wondering why I drew the short straw.

Mel stood by the car, not far from the driver, ready to open the door.  The pilots came down and told me they were to wait until further orders.  It explained the fourth car, which had just arrived.

They would be staying near Nice airport.

Mel was waiting for me, showing no inclination to be on her way or upset that she was stuck with me.  It wasn’t the first time I had to make sure she did as she was told.

“How did you draw the short straw?”

“The age-old trick, all the straws were short.  You are not happy, are you, Melanie?”

“You should be calling me Miss Albright, Harry.”

“Perhaps if you were a stuck-up bitch, Mel, but you’re not.”

“I could have you fired.”

“Please.  Then I might actually get to sleep longer than two hours.”  I nodded to the chauffeur and he opened the door.  “Get in, and whinge away.  I’m all ears.”

She glared at me, and I braced for an incoming salvo.  She shrugged.  “What’s the point, you’re just Daddy’s puppet.”

“Wow.  And here me thinking the strings were invisible.”

A half smile.  Good enough.

We drove for ten minutes.  She stared out the window, reflecting back at me, a furrowed brow.

“Daddy is unreasonable.”

Was I supposed to agree, or say something deep and meaningful?  Like any conversation with a woman, I couldn’t see the land mines I was about to step on.

“How?”

“He expects me to find a nice boy.  There are none.”

“Change where you’re looking.”

She looked at me.  “What’s that supposed to mean?”

“If you look in a dumpster, all you will find is trash.  Most, but not all, nightclubs are not the places to find a prospective boyfriend.  So, putting that aside for the moment, my mother, whom I always considered the fountain of wisdom, once said that you had to find someone with whom you could be friends first, hang out, talk, do stuff, but no passion or sex, or worst of all, have expectations.”

“That’s impossible.  You know what guys are like?”

“A lot of them, yes, but you’ll know when you find the right one.  That’s all the advice I can give you.”

“Is that how it is with you and Sonya?”

My turn to glare at her.  “No.  We work together.  You know as well as I do that type of relationship between employees is verboten.”

“But you like her.”

“I like everybody.”

“Even my sister?”

Now she was just playing games.  “She is an acquired taste, but even her.  Do you want me to throw Bozo overboard if he comes?”

Another half smile.  It was a calculated risk calling him Bozo. 

“No.  I can do that.  You just arrange for some sharks to be waiting for him when he hits the water.”

“As you wish, Miss Albright.”

Sonya was waiting for me in the small conference room, the table covered in paperwork.  It was clear her superior had dumped everything on her and gone up for drinks with the boss.

I had just delivered the prodigal daughter.

“Mel’s onto us.”

“What?”

“She thinks we’re having a fling.”

“When?  We barely have time to breathe.”

“That’s what I told her.  Has anything changed?”  Lots of paper meant trouble.

“A few more guests.  Bozo’s coming.  Wants to be picked up at the airport.  He actually thought we’d send the jet for him.  You want to tell Melanie?”

“Let it be a surprise.  Should I go up, see what’s going on?”

“Not unless you’re a glutton for punishment.”

My cell phone buzzed.  Message from the boss.

“Too late.  I’ve been summoned.  Please tell me everything is in order.”

“Until it isn’t, but as of now, it is.”

I took a deep breath and headed upstairs, through the main lounge and out onto the promenade deck, where a dozen people were gathered, wait staff mingling with drinks and canapes.  Dinner would be served later.

The boss was talking to several friends, their wives ensconced, unwillingly with the new Mrs Albright, perhaps disappointed with his choice but making the best of it. Billie was with her current boyfriend, a tech billionaire, maybe; no one was sure what he did, and Mel was gazing out over the dock at the other, smaller boats.

Or not.

Mrs Albright excused herself and came over.  I did not presume to move from the entrance to the deck until summoned.

“Harry.”

She was softly spoken and well-mannered.  She knew she was in the middle of a minefield, not of her choosing, but always keeping her composure.

I had no idea how she managed.

“Mrs Albright.”

“Cecelia, Harry.  We are past the formal stage now..”

I had given her the spiel on protocol expected from the employees, and such familiarity was frowned upon.

“If only.  What can I do for you?”

“Melanie?  She was upset coming over. Is she alright?”

We both looked at her, staring at nothing in particular.

“Just the usual rich girl blues.  I’m sure she’ll grow out of it, eventually.  How are you faring on the good ship lollipop?”

A frown, then a half smile.  We had an understanding, or maybe that was I had an understanding, she only understood sometimes.

“I want to say it’s all new and exciting, but…”

“The old guard is making noises.”

“Not today mention our old friends in the press gallery.”

“Tomorrow the Royal Family will screw up, and bingo, you are no longer front page news.  They’ll get over it.  And you will too.   The only two people who matter are you and the boss.  Everything else is just while noise.”

“Stay for a drink?” A waiter hovered with a tray of champagne.  The real stuff.

“I’d love to, but I have to solve the mystery of the missing beetroots before tomorrow comes and the salads are ruined.”

“The mystery of the missing beetroot, eh?”

“Never a dull moment down on the ordinary deck, Mrs Albright.  Never a dull moment.”

I was wandering the decks at 2am after seeing the guests off the ship and into their cars, and the guests staying aboard safely to their cabins, then got a bite to eat in the crew dining room.

A ca4 pulled up at the end of the gangway, and a figure got out, and all but ran in the gangway, where on deck he came up against the bosun acting as guard.

I arrived just as he asked for ID.  He had a list, and if you were not on the list, you were back on shore.

It was Bozo.

That was the fastest I’d ever seen anyone get from St Moritz to Antibes ever.

“Boris.  You’re early.”

The bosun was still looking at his list.

“Harry.  I assume Melanie is on board?”

“She is.”

The bosun sighed.  Perhaps we were hoping Bozo’s name wasn’t on the list, and he could have the pleasure of throwing him overboard.

I know I wanted to.

“His name is on the list.”

“Good.”  He started to head into the cabin when the bosun grabbed his arm. 

“You ain’t going anywhere without an escort.”

“Good heavens, man, I’m not a spy.  Harry?”

“I’ll take him.”  Scruffy and entitled.  I so wanted to throw him overboard.  “Follow me.”

I took him up to the stateroom deck and to Melanie’s cabin.  When I knocked on the door, I stood back and left Boris on the frame.

When she opened the door, she gasped, the slapped him across the face.  It was hard enough to make me wince.

“What was that for?”

“Being an arse.”  She stepped aside, and he went in and closed the door behind him.

Job done.

Of course, if only things ran smoothly.  But the best laid plans of mice and men never did.

5:47 am, I woke to a scream.  It took three minutes to reach the stateroom deck and the origin of the scream.

Mel’s stateroom.

The door was open, and Mel was outside.  She was distraught.

As well as being covered in blood, and a rather nasty knife in one hand.

A glimpse inside her room.  Bozo was equally covered in blood, and at a guess, dead.  Mrs Albright was checking, looking out at us and shaking her head.

I looked at Mel.  It was not the face of a murderer.  She was ashen.

“I didn’t do it.  I didn’t do anything.  He was alive when I went down to the galley to get some more champagne.  When I got back, he was on the floor, the knife sticking out of his chest.  I thought I pulled it out.”

The boss arrived.  “Lawyers and police, in that order.”

I didn’t think it was the right time to ask if the birthday party was off.

Then, suddenly, Melanie fainted.

“Revise that order, Doctor, then lawyers, then police.”  To me, he said, “Rouse everyone.  I want to know where they were during the last half hour.  And where was the guard at the gangway?”

So much for getting to bed.

At least now I would get to run my own murder investigation.

©  Charles Heath  2025

Writing a book in 365 days – 356

Day 356

The “Practice Makes Perfect” Myth (and Why It Still Works—for Writing)

“If you do anything seriously long enough, you’ll get better.”

That sentence feels like an old‑school mantra you might have heard from a coach, a music teacher, or a parent. It’s comforting, almost inevitable—just keep at it and the results will follow.

But does the rule hold true for writers? And what does it mean when we say “good writing is contagious”?

In this post I’ll unpack the science behind long‑term practice, show why writing is a uniquely contagious skill, and give you a toolbox of concrete, battle‑tested tips to turn “doing it longer” into real, measurable improvement.


1. The Core Truth: Time + Deliberate Practice = Skill Growth

FactWhat It Means for Writers
Neuroplasticity – The brain rewires itself with repeated activity.The more you write, the stronger the neural pathways that support storytelling, grammar, and voice.
Deliberate Practice – Not just “doing the thing,” but practicing with feedback and specific goals.Writing a 500‑word blog post isn’t enough; you must target weak spots (e.g., pacing, dialogue) and refine them deliberately.
Deliberate Practice – Not just “doing the thing,” but practising with feedback and specific goals.10,000 hours of mindless typing won’t help. Ten hours of focused revision, critique, and study can trump 100 hours of “just writing.”
Plateaus Are Normal – Skill acquisition follows a sigmoid curve: rapid early gains, a plateau, then a second surge after a breakthrough.Expect periods where progress feels stagnant. Use them to experiment, read, or rest—don’t quit.

Bottom line: Time alone isn’t enough. You need deliberate, feedback‑rich practice to convert hours into mastery.


2. Good Writing Is Contagious – Why It Spreads

  1. Social Proof: Readers (and fellow writers) gravitate toward high‑quality prose. When a piece shines, it sets a new benchmark in its community.
  2. Mirror Neurons: We neurologically mimic the style and tone we consume, especially when we admire the source. Reading great sentences trains our own “inner ear.”
  3. Collective Learning: Writing groups, workshops, and online forums create a feedback loop where one person’s improvement lifts the entire cohort.
  4. Cultural Momentum: Think of the “New Journalism” wave of the ’60s or the rise of flash fiction on Twitter—once a few voices cracked the code, the style proliferated.

In short, exposure to excellent writing accelerates your own growth—if you allow it to.


3. The Pitfalls of “Just Writing More”

Common MisconceptionWhy It FailsHow to Fix It
“I write 2,000 words a day, so I’m improving.”Quantity without reflection reinforces bad habits.After each session, flag 1–2 things you’d change (e.g., redundancy, weak verb).
“I’ll get better after I finish my novel.”Long‑term projects can hide small‑scale weaknesses.Break the novel into bite‑size “skill drills” (e.g., one chapter focused on dialogue).
“Feedback is optional; I trust my gut.”Our internal editor is notoriously biased.Schedule regular external reviews—beta readers, editors, or a critique partner.
“I’ll read only what I like.”Comfort zones limit exposure to new structures, vocab, and perspectives.Add a “genre‑stretch” reading slot each week (e.g., poetry if you write nonfiction).

4. Actionable Blueprint: Turn Hours Into Better Writing

Below is a step‑by‑step system you can adopt today. It’s modular—pick what fits your schedule and skill level, then iterate.

A. Build a Structured Writing Routine

ComponentFrequencyTip
Micro‑Write (10–15 min)Daily, first thing in the morningWrite a single sentence, a vivid description, or a quick dialogue exchange. No editing, just raw output.
Focused Session (45–90 min)3–4× per weekChoose a skill goal (e.g., “show, don’t tell”). Work on a specific piece that targets that goal.
Review & Revise (30 min)Immediately after each focused sessionHighlight 2–3 improvement points; rewrite the same passage with those in mind.
Reading Sprint (30 min)Daily or every other dayRead a passage from a writer you admire and take notes on what makes it work (sentence rhythm, word choice, structure).
Feedback Loop (1 hr)WeeklySend your work to a critique partner or post in a writing forum. Write a response to each piece of feedback, outlining what you’ll try next.

Why it works: The routine mixes production, analysis, and external input—the three pillars of deliberate practice.

B. “Contagion” Tactics – Let Good Writing Infect You

  1. Curated Reading Lists
    • Classic craft: “The Elements of Style,” “On Writing” (King).
    • Genre deep‑dive: 5 seminal works from each genre you write.
    • Modern bite‑size: Follow Twitter accounts that tweet micro‑essays or haiku.
  2. Imitation Exercises
    • Pick a paragraph you love. Rewrite it in your own voice while preserving the structure and rhythm.
    • Swap the genre (turn a news article into a short story).
  3. Community Immersion
    • Join a weekly critique circle (online or local).
    • Participate in writing challenges (NaNoWriMo, 30‑day flash fiction).
    • Comment thoughtfully on other writers’ blogs—explaining what you liked forces you to articulate good writing principles.
  4. Mentor‑Mode Writing
    • Write as if you’re teaching a class. Draft a short guide on a writing technique; the act of explaining refines your own understanding.

C. Metric‑Based Progress Tracking

MetricToolHow to Interpret
Word‑per‑hour outputTimer + word countAim for a stable range; spikes may indicate “flow” days, drops may signal fatigue.
Revision Ratio (original words ÷ final words)Drafts in Google DocsA decreasing ratio (e.g., 1.3 → 1.1) often signals tighter prose.
Feedback Score (e.g., 1‑5 rating from beta readers)Survey FormTrend upward? If flat, examine recurring criticism.
Reading Diversity Index (genres read per month)SpreadsheetHigher diversity correlates with more varied sentence structures.

Review these numbers every month and adjust your routine accordingly.


5. Real‑World Case Study: From “Stuck” to “Spitting Fire”

Writer: Maya, 34, freelance tech copywriter.

ProblemInterventionResult (3 months)
Drafts flooded with jargon; readers complained of “dry” tone.1️⃣ Daily 10‑min “show, don’t tell” micro‑write.
2️⃣ Weekly 30‑min reading of narrative non‑fiction (e.g., The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks).
3️⃣ Joined a local critique group focused on voice.
• Reduced average sentence length by 15 %.
• Client satisfaction score rose from 3.2 → 4.6/5.
• Secured a new contract for a storytelling‑heavy whitepaper series.

Maya’s story illustrates that structured, feedback‑rich practice beats sheer volume—and that reading narrative work made her own prose “contagiously” richer.


6. Quick‑Start Checklist (Print & Pin)

  •  Write a 10‑minute “seed” piece every morning (no edits).
  •  Pick one skill goal per week (e.g., stronger verbs).
  •  Read a 5‑minute passage from a master writer daily and annotate.
  •  Submit a draft for critique at least once a week.
  •  Imitate a favourite paragraph once a month, then rewrite it in a new genre.
  •  Log your metrics (output, revision ratio, feedback rating) every Friday.

7. The Bottom Line

Yes—if you do something seriously long enough, you will improve. But the quality of that “serious” effort is what determines how much you improve.

Good writing spreads like a good meme: you absorb it through reading, imitation, and community, and you amplify it by giving feedback and teaching.

By marrying deliberate practice with contagious exposure, you turn the simple mantra “write more” into a powerful, measurable growth engine.

Your next step? Choose one of the tactics above, commit to it for the next 30 days, and watch your prose evolve from “just getting longer” to “getting better.”

Happy writing—and may the contagion be ever in your favour!


If you found this post helpful, share it with fellow writers, and let us know which of the strategies you tried in the comments.

Top food unique to Philadelphia

A Philly cheesesteak sandwich for one

A Philadelphia Culinary Journey: From Iconic Cheesesteaks to Hidden Local Delights

Philadelphia isn’t just the City of Brotherly Love—it’s a food lover’s paradise. From the legendary feud between two cheesesteak titans to the sweet, sticky charm of water ice and soft pretzels, Philly’s culinary scene is as rich in history as its cheesesteaks are in cheese. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned Philly fan, this guide will lead you to the must-try spots and dishes that define the city’s iconic food culture.


The Cheesesteak: Philadelphia’s Crown Jewel

No trip to Philly is complete without a slice of cheesesteak, the city’s most famous sandwich. The origin story is as dramatic as any Philly sports rivalry: in the 1930s, a hot dog vendor named Pat Olivieri switched to serving steaks after a meat shortage. Meanwhile, Geno’s opened in 1952, and the two shops sparked a decades-long feud that culminated in a memorable 1980s courtship where both moved to the same block to outcompete each other. Today, their rivalry lives on, with fans passionately defending their favourites.

Top Spots to Satisfy the Craving:

  1. Pat’s King of Steaks
    • Why It’s Iconic: The original “wit everything” (peppers and onions) classic, served with ultra-chunky, melted Cheez Whiz.
    • Pro Tip: Arrive early to skip the lines, but be prepared for the wait—this is part of the Philly cheesesteak pilgrimage.
  2. Geno’s Steaks
    • Why It’s Iconic: Known for a more tender, buttery steak and a slightly sweeter cheese blend.
    • Pro Tip: Ask for a “regular” cut instead of chopped for a denser bite.
  3. Jim’s Steaks
    • Why It’s Iconic: A third contender in the cheesesteak holy war, Jim’s offers a thick slice of ribeye drenched in cheese.
    • Pro Tip: The “Big Cheese” sandwich is legendary—order with a side of soft pretzel sticks to balance the richness.

Beyond the Cheesesteak: Philly’s Secret Food Treasures

While the cheesesteak reigns supreme, Philly’s culinary scene offers more treasures for the adventurous palate.

1. Philly Hoagie

  • A hoagie is not a cheesesteak—Philly purists will clarify this! This footlong hero sandwich is layered with deli meats (like Genoa salami and capicola), provolone, lettuce, tomatoes, and olive salad, all smothered in olive oil and oregano.
  • Where to Go: Hoagie Haven in South Philly for a quintessential take.

2. Soft Pretzels

  • Philly’s pretzels are salted, chewy, and served in six-packs for $1. They’re perfect for noshing on the go.
  • Where to Go: DiNic’s on the corner of Broad and Sansom offers a pretzel shaped like a Philly love letter.

3. Water Ice

  • A Philly twist on soft serve, water ice is shaved, layered with syrup, and packed with flavour (strawberry, cherry, and banana pudding are favourites).
  • Where to Go: Frank’s Famous Water Ice at the Italian Market for a burst of nostalgia.

4. Tastykakes

  • These dense, fruit-filled desserts have been a local treat since 1930. Think banana splits, cherry clouds, and chocolate chess pies.
  • Where to Go: Your local corner store—they’re as much a part of Philly as cheesesteaks.

5. The Italian Market

  • A vibrant, family-owned marketplace in South Philly, the Italian Market is a foodie’s playground. Here, you’ll find fresh seafood, handcrafted pastas, and the legendary “Cheesesteak Sauce” to make at home.

Tips for the Ultimate Foodie Experience

  • Brace for Lines: Pat’s and Geno’s can be packed, but the wait is part of the experience.
  • Go Local: Try “wit cheese” (no cheese) for a classic steak, or “wit everything” for a spicy, oozing mess.
  • Walk It Off: Pair your meal with a stroll through the South Street or Society Hill neighbourhoods—perfect for digesting all that cheese and carbs.

Philadelphia’s food scene is a love letter to tradition, bold flavours, and fierce pride. Whether you’re savouring a cheese-drenched steak or savouring a fistful of pretzels at the Italian Market, every bite tells a story. So, grab your appetite, roll up your sleeves, and let Philly’s culinary magic take over. After all, in a city where food is love, you can’t go wrong.

Bon appétit, and Sláinte! 🥬🍖

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Philadelphia

 Off the Beaten Path: Top 5 Hidden Gems in Philadelphia to Explore

Philadelphia is a city steeped in history, vibrant culture, and architectural charm. While landmarks like Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell dominate guidebooks, the city’s true soul lies in the lesser-known corners that reveal its character. Ditch the tourist trail and uncover these five unique experiences that showcase Philadelphia’s quirky, historic, and artistic side.


1. Magic Gardens: A Mosaic Wonderland

Tucked in a quiet lot above a former grocery store, Magic Gardens is an enchanting outdoor art installation created by local artist Isaiah Zagar. This kaleidoscope of mosaics, sculptures, and whimsical designs feels like stepping into a fairy tale. Every wall, tree, and bench is covered in intricate, colourful art made from shards of glass, mirrors, and tiles. While it’s a local favourite, most visitors overlook it in favour of more “mainstream” attractions. Explore the playful gardens and let your imagination wander—one piece might make you smile, another might spark a memory.

Pro Tip: Visit in the late afternoon to catch the golden light illuminating the mosaics. The adjacent Zagar house is also an artist’s studio worth peeking into.


2. Morris Arboretum: A Hidden Botanical Treasure

Just a short drive from downtown, the Morris Arboretum offers a tranquil escape into nature. Established in 1887, it was the first public arboretum in the U.S. and boasts over 20 miles of walking trails, rare plant species, and serene gardens like the Rhododendron Dell and the Japanese Pavilion. While Philadelphians flock here for picnics and autumn foliage, it often misses the radar of out-of-town tourists. Don’t miss the treehouse and treetop walkway, which offer a magical perspective of the grounds.

Pro Tip: Check the seasonal programming—spring brings cherry blossoms, and fall features a spectacular pumpkin patch.


3. Laing Houses: Painted Rowhomes with Personality

Stroll through Society Hill and you’ll stumble upon South 3rd Street’s Laing Houses, a row of 18th-century townhouses with vibrantly painted facades. Each house tells a story through its colours and quirky architectural details, like the “House of Screams” (orange and black) or the “House of Love” (pink and white). This hidden gem is a local favourite for photo ops but often underappreciated by tourists. The houses were once owned by prominent Quakers and are still private residences, making their colourful exteriors all the more intriguing.

Pro Tip: Snap a photo at the corner of South 3rd and Poplar Streets for a vibrant backdrop.


4. Fairmount Water Works: History Meets Green Space

Nestled along the Schuylkill River, the Fairmount Water Works Interpretive Centre blends history, ecology, and recreation. Originally built in 1812 to supply fresh water, the Gothic Revival structure is now a free public space with interactive exhibits, walking trails, and stunning views of the river and Ben Franklin Bridge. It’s a peaceful spot to picnic, paddle a kayak, or simply gaze at the historic machinery. Few realise this is the birthplace of the United States’ public water system.

Pro Tip: Visit in the spring or summer to see the azaleas and rhododendrons in full bloom.


5. Queen Village: Charming Historic Neighbourhood

Venture into Queen Village, a neighbourhood just south of Old City, to discover cobblestone streets, Federal-style rowhomes, and a thriving arts scene. Unlike the crowded Historic District, this area feels like a living, breathing community with locally owned boutiques, cozy cafés, and the Hamilton-Wayne House (a 1768 museum with hidden passageways and a haunted legend). Don’t miss the murals, street performers, or the annual Queen Village Art Walk.

Pro Tip: Grab a cupcake at The Local or savour a meal at Dante’s Kitchen, a beloved neighbourhood favourite.


The Verdict?
Philadelphia’s allure isn’t just in its history—it’s in the stories whispered through its alleys, the artistry in unexpected places, and the charm of neighbourhoods that feel like home. Pair these hidden gems with the city’s iconic landmarks for a journey that blends the best of both worlds. After all, the road less travelled often has the most unforgettable moments.

Ready to explore? Pack your curiosity and let Philadelphia reveal its secret layers.

 🌿🎨✨

Share your discoveries in the comments below—we’d love to hear about your favourite hidden spot in Philly!

Writing a book in 365 days – 356

Day 356

The “Practice Makes Perfect” Myth (and Why It Still Works—for Writing)

“If you do anything seriously long enough, you’ll get better.”

That sentence feels like an old‑school mantra you might have heard from a coach, a music teacher, or a parent. It’s comforting, almost inevitable—just keep at it and the results will follow.

But does the rule hold true for writers? And what does it mean when we say “good writing is contagious”?

In this post I’ll unpack the science behind long‑term practice, show why writing is a uniquely contagious skill, and give you a toolbox of concrete, battle‑tested tips to turn “doing it longer” into real, measurable improvement.


1. The Core Truth: Time + Deliberate Practice = Skill Growth

FactWhat It Means for Writers
Neuroplasticity – The brain rewires itself with repeated activity.The more you write, the stronger the neural pathways that support storytelling, grammar, and voice.
Deliberate Practice – Not just “doing the thing,” but practicing with feedback and specific goals.Writing a 500‑word blog post isn’t enough; you must target weak spots (e.g., pacing, dialogue) and refine them deliberately.
Deliberate Practice – Not just “doing the thing,” but practising with feedback and specific goals.10,000 hours of mindless typing won’t help. Ten hours of focused revision, critique, and study can trump 100 hours of “just writing.”
Plateaus Are Normal – Skill acquisition follows a sigmoid curve: rapid early gains, a plateau, then a second surge after a breakthrough.Expect periods where progress feels stagnant. Use them to experiment, read, or rest—don’t quit.

Bottom line: Time alone isn’t enough. You need deliberate, feedback‑rich practice to convert hours into mastery.


2. Good Writing Is Contagious – Why It Spreads

  1. Social Proof: Readers (and fellow writers) gravitate toward high‑quality prose. When a piece shines, it sets a new benchmark in its community.
  2. Mirror Neurons: We neurologically mimic the style and tone we consume, especially when we admire the source. Reading great sentences trains our own “inner ear.”
  3. Collective Learning: Writing groups, workshops, and online forums create a feedback loop where one person’s improvement lifts the entire cohort.
  4. Cultural Momentum: Think of the “New Journalism” wave of the ’60s or the rise of flash fiction on Twitter—once a few voices cracked the code, the style proliferated.

In short, exposure to excellent writing accelerates your own growth—if you allow it to.


3. The Pitfalls of “Just Writing More”

Common MisconceptionWhy It FailsHow to Fix It
“I write 2,000 words a day, so I’m improving.”Quantity without reflection reinforces bad habits.After each session, flag 1–2 things you’d change (e.g., redundancy, weak verb).
“I’ll get better after I finish my novel.”Long‑term projects can hide small‑scale weaknesses.Break the novel into bite‑size “skill drills” (e.g., one chapter focused on dialogue).
“Feedback is optional; I trust my gut.”Our internal editor is notoriously biased.Schedule regular external reviews—beta readers, editors, or a critique partner.
“I’ll read only what I like.”Comfort zones limit exposure to new structures, vocab, and perspectives.Add a “genre‑stretch” reading slot each week (e.g., poetry if you write nonfiction).

4. Actionable Blueprint: Turn Hours Into Better Writing

Below is a step‑by‑step system you can adopt today. It’s modular—pick what fits your schedule and skill level, then iterate.

A. Build a Structured Writing Routine

ComponentFrequencyTip
Micro‑Write (10–15 min)Daily, first thing in the morningWrite a single sentence, a vivid description, or a quick dialogue exchange. No editing, just raw output.
Focused Session (45–90 min)3–4× per weekChoose a skill goal (e.g., “show, don’t tell”). Work on a specific piece that targets that goal.
Review & Revise (30 min)Immediately after each focused sessionHighlight 2–3 improvement points; rewrite the same passage with those in mind.
Reading Sprint (30 min)Daily or every other dayRead a passage from a writer you admire and take notes on what makes it work (sentence rhythm, word choice, structure).
Feedback Loop (1 hr)WeeklySend your work to a critique partner or post in a writing forum. Write a response to each piece of feedback, outlining what you’ll try next.

Why it works: The routine mixes production, analysis, and external input—the three pillars of deliberate practice.

B. “Contagion” Tactics – Let Good Writing Infect You

  1. Curated Reading Lists
    • Classic craft: “The Elements of Style,” “On Writing” (King).
    • Genre deep‑dive: 5 seminal works from each genre you write.
    • Modern bite‑size: Follow Twitter accounts that tweet micro‑essays or haiku.
  2. Imitation Exercises
    • Pick a paragraph you love. Rewrite it in your own voice while preserving the structure and rhythm.
    • Swap the genre (turn a news article into a short story).
  3. Community Immersion
    • Join a weekly critique circle (online or local).
    • Participate in writing challenges (NaNoWriMo, 30‑day flash fiction).
    • Comment thoughtfully on other writers’ blogs—explaining what you liked forces you to articulate good writing principles.
  4. Mentor‑Mode Writing
    • Write as if you’re teaching a class. Draft a short guide on a writing technique; the act of explaining refines your own understanding.

C. Metric‑Based Progress Tracking

MetricToolHow to Interpret
Word‑per‑hour outputTimer + word countAim for a stable range; spikes may indicate “flow” days, drops may signal fatigue.
Revision Ratio (original words ÷ final words)Drafts in Google DocsA decreasing ratio (e.g., 1.3 → 1.1) often signals tighter prose.
Feedback Score (e.g., 1‑5 rating from beta readers)Survey FormTrend upward? If flat, examine recurring criticism.
Reading Diversity Index (genres read per month)SpreadsheetHigher diversity correlates with more varied sentence structures.

Review these numbers every month and adjust your routine accordingly.


5. Real‑World Case Study: From “Stuck” to “Spitting Fire”

Writer: Maya, 34, freelance tech copywriter.

ProblemInterventionResult (3 months)
Drafts flooded with jargon; readers complained of “dry” tone.1️⃣ Daily 10‑min “show, don’t tell” micro‑write.
2️⃣ Weekly 30‑min reading of narrative non‑fiction (e.g., The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks).
3️⃣ Joined a local critique group focused on voice.
• Reduced average sentence length by 15 %.
• Client satisfaction score rose from 3.2 → 4.6/5.
• Secured a new contract for a storytelling‑heavy whitepaper series.

Maya’s story illustrates that structured, feedback‑rich practice beats sheer volume—and that reading narrative work made her own prose “contagiously” richer.


6. Quick‑Start Checklist (Print & Pin)

  •  Write a 10‑minute “seed” piece every morning (no edits).
  •  Pick one skill goal per week (e.g., stronger verbs).
  •  Read a 5‑minute passage from a master writer daily and annotate.
  •  Submit a draft for critique at least once a week.
  •  Imitate a favourite paragraph once a month, then rewrite it in a new genre.
  •  Log your metrics (output, revision ratio, feedback rating) every Friday.

7. The Bottom Line

Yes—if you do something seriously long enough, you will improve. But the quality of that “serious” effort is what determines how much you improve.

Good writing spreads like a good meme: you absorb it through reading, imitation, and community, and you amplify it by giving feedback and teaching.

By marrying deliberate practice with contagious exposure, you turn the simple mantra “write more” into a powerful, measurable growth engine.

Your next step? Choose one of the tactics above, commit to it for the next 30 days, and watch your prose evolve from “just getting longer” to “getting better.”

Happy writing—and may the contagion be ever in your favour!


If you found this post helpful, share it with fellow writers, and let us know which of the strategies you tried in the comments.