Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Pristina

Beyond the Beaten Path: 5 Unique Things to Do in Pristina Off the Road Less Travelled

When most travellers think of Pristina, Kosovo’s capital often appears as a quick stopover—somewhere you pass through en route to mountains, monasteries, or ancient towns. But those who linger discover a city pulsing with youthful energy, raw history, and hidden cultural gems just beneath the surface. While the Newborn Monument and the National Library are well-worth a visit, true authenticity lies beyond the guidebook checklists.

For the curious explorer who craves unique experiences, local life, and a deeper connection with the city’s soul, here are five unforgettable things to do in Pristina—off the beaten path and away from the tourist trail.


1. Explore Graffiti Lane: Pristina’s Open-Air Street Art Gallery

Tucked behind the National Gallery of Kosovo on Rruga Gani Koci, you’ll find a narrow, unassuming alley that bursts with colour, rebellion, and storytelling. Locally known as Graffiti Lane, this urban canvas is Kosovo’s most vibrant street art hub, where local and international artists use spray paint to express political commentary, cultural pride, and personal dreams.

Unlike curated galleries, this space evolves constantly. One week you might see a tribute to Ibrahim Rugova, Kosovo’s former president; the next, a surreal portrait of a woman wearing traditional pletë (embroidered headdress) morphing into a galaxy.

Pro Tip: Visit in the late afternoon when local artists often hang around to touch up their work—strike up a conversation. You might walk away with a new friend and a deeper understanding of Kosovo’s post-war identity.


2. Sip Traditional Rakia at a Hidden Family-Owned Konoba

Forget fancy rooftop bars (though Pristina has those too). For a taste of real Kosovar hospitality, head to Konoba Kalaja—a cozy, stone-walled tavern tucked into the hillside of the Old Town district, near the remains of Pristina Castle.

This isn’t a tourist trap; it’s a family-run eatery where time slows down. Wooden beams, clay pots, and flickering candles set the mood as you’re served homemade rakia (a strong fruit brandy) and slow-cooked dishes like tava kosi (baked lamb with yogurt) or grilled qebapa (seasoned minced meat sausages).

Locals bring their grandfathers here. The owner, Gjergj, might pull out a two-string lahuta and sing a folk tune if you’re lucky. There’s no menu in English—just point, smile, and trust the kitchen. This is how Kosovo feeds its soul.


3. Join a Local Philosopher on a “Coffee & Conversation” Walk

In a city where university students outnumber skyscrapers, intellectual conversation is part of the culture. Through local community initiatives like Qendra Multimedia, you can sign up for a unique experience: a guided “philosophy walk” led by university students or professors.

Over slow-sipping espressos at tucked-away cafés like Cafe Du Coin or Pompik, you’ll discuss everything from Kosovo’s nation-building challenges to existentialism, all while strolling through quiet neighbourhoods like Velania or Lagjja Çnarama.

It’s not a tour—it’s a dialogue. And it might just be the most human connection you make on your entire trip.


4. Discover Forgotten Trains at the Abandoned Railway Station

On the outskirts of Pristina, hidden behind wild grass and graffiti-tagged fences, lies a relic of a bygone era: the city’s disused railway station. Once part of a regional Balkan rail network, the station has been inactive for decades, but its decaying platforms, rusted tracks, and crumbling waiting rooms tell a poignant story of missed connections and unrealised potential.

Urban explorers and photographers love this spot. Wander among silent freight cars overtaken by vines, peer into abandoned ticket booths where dust coats vintage typewriters, and imagine Pristina as a crossroads of Yugoslav-era travel.

Note: This is not an official tourist site—visit respectfully and safely. Early morning or late afternoon light makes for the most hauntingly beautiful photos.


5. Attend an Underground Live Music Night at Pulp

Tucked inside a repurposed printing house in central Pristina, Pulp is more than a bar—it’s a cultural heartbeat. By day, it’s a café with indie books and artisan coffee. By night, it transforms into Kosovo’s most authentic live music venue, hosting a diverse range of acts, from jazz trios and experimental electronic sets to punk bands and spoken word poetry.

The crowd is young, local, and politically aware. Performances are intimate—sometimes just a mic and a guitar in a room that holds fifty people max. There’s no cover charge, but donations keep the lights on.

Check their Facebook page before you go; nights are irregular, but if you catch one, you’re witnessing Kosovo’s creative resistance in real time.


Final Thoughts: Pristina Reveals Itself Slowly

Pristina doesn’t dazzle at first glance. Its charm is in the cracks—in the laughter over a shared bottle of rakia, the poetry scrawled on an alley wall, the silent echo of a train track that once led everywhere.

The top five attractions on any standard list will show you the city’s face. But these five offbeat experiences? They’ll let you feel its pulse.

So next time you’re in Pristina, skip the crowded cafés on Mother Teresa Boulevard. Turn down a narrow street, say “yes” to an invitation you don’t fully understand, and let the real Kosovo welcome you in.


Traveler’s Checklist:

  • Wear comfortable shoes for Graffiti Lane and the old station.
  • Bring small bills for konobas and donations at Pulp.
  • Learn a few Albanian phrases—“Faleminderit” (thank you) goes a long way.
  • Respect local customs—especially in family-run spaces.

Pristina isn’t just a destination. It’s a conversation. Come ready to listen.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Valetta

Discover Valletta’s Hidden Gems: A Road Less Travelled Through Malta’s Capital

If you’ve ever visited Valletta, you know it’s a city of grandeur: a UNESCO World Heritage site with Baroque splendour, ancient fortresses, and sweeping sea views. But beyond the bustling Barrakka Gardens and the famed St. John’s Co-Cathedral lies a Valletta waiting to be discovered—one filled with quiet courtyards, local secrets, and lesser-known stories. For travellers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience, here are five extraordinary ways to explore a different side of this Maltese gem.


1. Step into Valletta’s Creative Heart: St. James Cavalier Centre for Creativity

Tucked into a centuries-old Inquisitor’s Palace, the St. James Cavalier Centre for Creativity is a vibrant hub of contemporary art, culture, and community. Originally built in the 16th century, this striking white fortress was once a prison and a site of secret executions. Today, it’s transformed into a lively arts venue, hosting exhibitions, street food festivals, and live performances. Wander through its hidden courtyards and sun-dappled archways, where the past and present collide. It’s a must-visit for artists, history buffs, and anyone craving Valletta’s modern soul.


2. Unearth History Beneath Your Feet: Valletta Underground Tour

Did you know Valletta is built atop a network of ancient tunnels and hidden chambers? The Mysterious Valletta Tour offers a fascinating journey into the city’s subterranean secrets. Follow your guide through forgotten catacombs, medieval wine cellars, and wartime bunkers, learning how these underground spaces shaped Malta’s history. It’s a cool (literally) alternative to the city’s sunlit streets—and perfect for curious minds.


3. Savour the Quiet: Lower Barrakka Gardens

While the Upper Barrakka Gardens are a beloved panoramic spot, the Lower Barrakka Gardens offer a quieter, more intimate view of the Grand Harbour. Less crowded and steeped in history, these gardens were once a secret meeting place for merchants and dignitaries. Stroll through the lush, sunlit pathways, enjoy the distant lapping of waves, and snap a photo without the backdrop of crowds.


4. Explore Dark History: The Inquisitor’s Palace

For a gripping dive into Malta’s religious and legal past, the Inquisitor’s Palace is a hauntingly fascinating stop. This 16th-century fortress served as the seat of the Catholic Inquisition in Malta, and its eerie cells and torture chambers provide a sobering glimpse into a turbulent era. While it’s a bit off the typical tourist circuit, the exhibits and guided tours offer rich storytelling and a chance to reflect on Malta’s complex history.


5. Wander Local Lanes: Strada San Domenico and Triq l-Antika

Swap the well-trodden Royal Road for a meander through Strada San Domenico, a charming artisans’ street filled with workshops for glassblowers, weavers, and chocolate makers. Nearby, Triq l-Antika (Antique Street) is a narrow lane bursting with tiny shops selling Maltese lace, handmade soaps, and vintage souvenirs. For lunch, duck into a family-run café like Café Rui or Café del Sol and savour pastizzi (Maltese pastries) and strong Malta coffee, just like the locals do.


Conclusion: Valletta’s Delightful Detours

Valletta thrives on balance—its grandeur and its intimacy, its history and its innovation. By venturing beyond the well-known landmarks, you’ll uncover a city that’s rich in culture, stories, and small-town charm. Whether you’re exploring hidden gardens, sipping coffee in artisan lanes, or descending into ancient tunnels, Valletta’s road less travelled promises unforgettable memories. So next time you’re in Malta’s capital, let curiosity lead the way.

Ready to explore Valletta’s hidden side? Pack your walking shoes and an adventurous spirit—there’s more to discover than meets the eye!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Valetta

Discover Valletta’s Hidden Gems: A Road Less Travelled Through Malta’s Capital

If you’ve ever visited Valletta, you know it’s a city of grandeur: a UNESCO World Heritage site with Baroque splendour, ancient fortresses, and sweeping sea views. But beyond the bustling Barrakka Gardens and the famed St. John’s Co-Cathedral lies a Valletta waiting to be discovered—one filled with quiet courtyards, local secrets, and lesser-known stories. For travellers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience, here are five extraordinary ways to explore a different side of this Maltese gem.


1. Step into Valletta’s Creative Heart: St. James Cavalier Centre for Creativity

Tucked into a centuries-old Inquisitor’s Palace, the St. James Cavalier Centre for Creativity is a vibrant hub of contemporary art, culture, and community. Originally built in the 16th century, this striking white fortress was once a prison and a site of secret executions. Today, it’s transformed into a lively arts venue, hosting exhibitions, street food festivals, and live performances. Wander through its hidden courtyards and sun-dappled archways, where the past and present collide. It’s a must-visit for artists, history buffs, and anyone craving Valletta’s modern soul.


2. Unearth History Beneath Your Feet: Valletta Underground Tour

Did you know Valletta is built atop a network of ancient tunnels and hidden chambers? The Mysterious Valletta Tour offers a fascinating journey into the city’s subterranean secrets. Follow your guide through forgotten catacombs, medieval wine cellars, and wartime bunkers, learning how these underground spaces shaped Malta’s history. It’s a cool (literally) alternative to the city’s sunlit streets—and perfect for curious minds.


3. Savour the Quiet: Lower Barrakka Gardens

While the Upper Barrakka Gardens are a beloved panoramic spot, the Lower Barrakka Gardens offer a quieter, more intimate view of the Grand Harbour. Less crowded and steeped in history, these gardens were once a secret meeting place for merchants and dignitaries. Stroll through the lush, sunlit pathways, enjoy the distant lapping of waves, and snap a photo without the backdrop of crowds.


4. Explore Dark History: The Inquisitor’s Palace

For a gripping dive into Malta’s religious and legal past, the Inquisitor’s Palace is a hauntingly fascinating stop. This 16th-century fortress served as the seat of the Catholic Inquisition in Malta, and its eerie cells and torture chambers provide a sobering glimpse into a turbulent era. While it’s a bit off the typical tourist circuit, the exhibits and guided tours offer rich storytelling and a chance to reflect on Malta’s complex history.


5. Wander Local Lanes: Strada San Domenico and Triq l-Antika

Swap the well-trodden Royal Road for a meander through Strada San Domenico, a charming artisans’ street filled with workshops for glassblowers, weavers, and chocolate makers. Nearby, Triq l-Antika (Antique Street) is a narrow lane bursting with tiny shops selling Maltese lace, handmade soaps, and vintage souvenirs. For lunch, duck into a family-run café like Café Rui or Café del Sol and savour pastizzi (Maltese pastries) and strong Malta coffee, just like the locals do.


Conclusion: Valletta’s Delightful Detours

Valletta thrives on balance—its grandeur and its intimacy, its history and its innovation. By venturing beyond the well-known landmarks, you’ll uncover a city that’s rich in culture, stories, and small-town charm. Whether you’re exploring hidden gardens, sipping coffee in artisan lanes, or descending into ancient tunnels, Valletta’s road less travelled promises unforgettable memories. So next time you’re in Malta’s capital, let curiosity lead the way.

Ready to explore Valletta’s hidden side? Pack your walking shoes and an adventurous spirit—there’s more to discover than meets the eye!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Scopje

5 Off-the-Beaten-Path Things to Do in Scopje: Discover the Hidden Soul of North Macedonia

When you think of Scopje, North Macedonia’s capital, you might picture the iconic Stone Bridge, the towering statue of Alexander the Great, or the eclectic mix of neoclassical and Ottoman architecture. But beyond the postcard-perfect landmarks lies a lesser-known side of Scopje—quiet alleyways, artistic havens, and authentic local experiences that most tourists miss. If you’re craving something deeper than the typical itinerary, lace up your walking shoes and step off the beaten path. Here are five unique and local-favourite things to do in Scopje that will give you a genuine taste of the city’s soul.


1. Roam the Artist’s Quarter in Čair’s Hidden Courtyards

Tucked away in the bustling Čair neighbourhood—a mosaic of cultures and communities—you’ll find Scopje’s underground art scene thriving in unexpected places. Move past the main streets and into the quiet, ivy-covered courtyards where local artists convert old Ottoman-era houses into studios, galleries, and impromptu exhibition spaces.

Visit during the Čair Fest (if your trip aligns in summer) or simply wander during daylight hours. Knock gently—many artists welcome curious visitors with a warm Zdravo and a cup of Turkish coffee. These intimate encounters offer a refreshing contrast to commercial galleries and reveal the creative heartbeat of the city.

Pro Tip: Bring cash—many artworks are for sale at surprisingly reasonable prices.


2. Hike to Kale Fortress at Sunrise (and Skip the Crowds)

While the medieval Kale Fortress is a popular attraction, most tourists visit midday when the heat and crowds peak. Instead, set your alarm and hike up from the Old Bazaar at sunrise. The path is steep but short, and as you climb through dew-kissed cobblestones, you’ll likely have the ancient ramparts all to yourself.

Watching the city slowly awaken from this vantage point—mist rising off the Vardar River, minarets silhouetted against a peach-colored sky—is pure magic. Plus, you’ll spot resident cats napping in sunlit nooks and hear only birdsong and the occasional call to prayer.

Bonus: Bring a thermos of strong Macedonian coffee and enjoy a quiet moment in history.


3. Discover the Forgotten Macedonian Railway Museum

Tucked behind the main train station and often overlooked, this modest museum is a goldmine for history buffs and train enthusiasts. Inside a converted 1920s depot, vintage locomotives, archival photographs, and meticulously restored railcars tell the story of Balkan railway development.

Curator Ljubčo, a retired engineer with decades of experience, often volunteers his time—and his stories. He’ll regale you with tales of cross-border journeys during Yugoslavia, smuggled contraband, and the secret role trains played during political upheavals.

Why it’s special: It’s personal, unpolished, and deeply nostalgic—no admission fee, just gratitude.


4. Sip Mint Tea in a Hidden Hammam Garden

Tucked behind a plain doorway near the Old Bazaar, Čarši Hamam—once a bustling Ottoman bath—now hosts a tranquil tea garden few know about. While the structure remains unrestored, locals and expats have claimed the inner courtyard as a peaceful retreat.

Pull up a wooden stool, order a glass of warm mint tea or rakija infused with quince, and listen to live acoustic music on weekend evenings. The crumbling tile walls, dappled sunlight, and scent of rosewater create an atmosphere that feels centuries old and refreshingly current.

Insider detail: The entrance is easy to miss—look for a faded green archway between two spice stalls.


5. Take a Ferry to the “Island” (Gazi Baba’s Secret Retreat)

Just a short bus ride from the city centre, the Vardar River widens into a calm stretch dotted with a little-known artificial island known locally as “Ostrvo” (The Island). Locals flock here on weekends to escape the urban buzz, lounging on grassy banks, grilling pljeskavica, or swimming cautiously in calmer eddies.

For a unique experience, hop on a hand-rowed wooden ferry operated by a retired fisherman named Tome. For just 50 denars (less than $1), he’ll ferry you across, offering a quick history lesson en route. Once there, enjoy fresh kiselo mleko (yogurt drink) from a pop-up stand and watch local fishermen mend their nets.

Best time to go: Late afternoon on a weekday—fewer people, golden light, unforgettable views.


Final Thoughts: Scopje Rewritten

Scopje is often misunderstood—a city caught between epochs, aesthetics, and identities. But for those willing to wander beyond the curated city centre, it reveals itself in murmurs: a poet reading in a courtyard, a whiff of rose oil from an open window, the rhythmic clang of a blacksmith’s hammer.

These five experiences aren’t just “things to do”—they’re invitations to connect. To slow down. To listen. To become part of Scopje’s quiet, unfolding story.

So next time you’re in town, skip the statue selfies (at least for a morning) and let the city surprise you. The road less travelled in Scopje isn’t just scenic—it’s soul-stirring.


Have you discovered your own hidden gem in Scopje? Share your offbeat adventures in the comments below!

The 2am Rant: Hotels versus the rest

Leave, Vacation, or Holiday – don’t you deserve a break?

Some people we know have come up for a holiday in what could be described as a very touristy location.

But is it for a ‘holiday’?

They have come from one state and are staying in what could be called an apartment, not a hotel.  They are here for a week.

So, they have a kitchen of sorts and can cook their own meals, unlike staying in a hotel room and having to eat out or in the hotel restaurant, and the apartment has a mini laundry.

How much different is this to being at home?

Perhaps we need to have a definition of the word ‘holiday’ and its variations.  A lot of people’s use the term ‘vacation’.  Others use the term ‘leave’.  Leave’s a difficult term because it can cover a number of types such as annual, sick, and maternity.

But whatever we want to call it, is it when you’re taking some time away from work.

Is it when you go ‘away’, that is to say anywhere but home?

You say, ‘I’m going on vacation.”

We say, “Oh, where are you going?”

Some say camping.  Is that any different than staying in an apartment, or even a holiday house?  Still all the same chores, cooking, cleaning, washing.

Is this why so many people are now going on cruises and hotels are so full these days.

There will always those who will go camping and stay is self-serve places like apartments, but for me, a holiday is staying in a five-star hotel where the only worry is where the nearest dry cleaner is.

 

 

 

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Scopje

5 Off-the-Beaten-Path Things to Do in Scopje: Discover the Hidden Soul of North Macedonia

When you think of Scopje, North Macedonia’s capital, you might picture the iconic Stone Bridge, the towering statue of Alexander the Great, or the eclectic mix of neoclassical and Ottoman architecture. But beyond the postcard-perfect landmarks lies a lesser-known side of Scopje—quiet alleyways, artistic havens, and authentic local experiences that most tourists miss. If you’re craving something deeper than the typical itinerary, lace up your walking shoes and step off the beaten path. Here are five unique and local-favourite things to do in Scopje that will give you a genuine taste of the city’s soul.


1. Roam the Artist’s Quarter in Čair’s Hidden Courtyards

Tucked away in the bustling Čair neighbourhood—a mosaic of cultures and communities—you’ll find Scopje’s underground art scene thriving in unexpected places. Move past the main streets and into the quiet, ivy-covered courtyards where local artists convert old Ottoman-era houses into studios, galleries, and impromptu exhibition spaces.

Visit during the Čair Fest (if your trip aligns in summer) or simply wander during daylight hours. Knock gently—many artists welcome curious visitors with a warm Zdravo and a cup of Turkish coffee. These intimate encounters offer a refreshing contrast to commercial galleries and reveal the creative heartbeat of the city.

Pro Tip: Bring cash—many artworks are for sale at surprisingly reasonable prices.


2. Hike to Kale Fortress at Sunrise (and Skip the Crowds)

While the medieval Kale Fortress is a popular attraction, most tourists visit midday when the heat and crowds peak. Instead, set your alarm and hike up from the Old Bazaar at sunrise. The path is steep but short, and as you climb through dew-kissed cobblestones, you’ll likely have the ancient ramparts all to yourself.

Watching the city slowly awaken from this vantage point—mist rising off the Vardar River, minarets silhouetted against a peach-colored sky—is pure magic. Plus, you’ll spot resident cats napping in sunlit nooks and hear only birdsong and the occasional call to prayer.

Bonus: Bring a thermos of strong Macedonian coffee and enjoy a quiet moment in history.


3. Discover the Forgotten Macedonian Railway Museum

Tucked behind the main train station and often overlooked, this modest museum is a goldmine for history buffs and train enthusiasts. Inside a converted 1920s depot, vintage locomotives, archival photographs, and meticulously restored railcars tell the story of Balkan railway development.

Curator Ljubčo, a retired engineer with decades of experience, often volunteers his time—and his stories. He’ll regale you with tales of cross-border journeys during Yugoslavia, smuggled contraband, and the secret role trains played during political upheavals.

Why it’s special: It’s personal, unpolished, and deeply nostalgic—no admission fee, just gratitude.


4. Sip Mint Tea in a Hidden Hammam Garden

Tucked behind a plain doorway near the Old Bazaar, Čarši Hamam—once a bustling Ottoman bath—now hosts a tranquil tea garden few know about. While the structure remains unrestored, locals and expats have claimed the inner courtyard as a peaceful retreat.

Pull up a wooden stool, order a glass of warm mint tea or rakija infused with quince, and listen to live acoustic music on weekend evenings. The crumbling tile walls, dappled sunlight, and scent of rosewater create an atmosphere that feels centuries old and refreshingly current.

Insider detail: The entrance is easy to miss—look for a faded green archway between two spice stalls.


5. Take a Ferry to the “Island” (Gazi Baba’s Secret Retreat)

Just a short bus ride from the city centre, the Vardar River widens into a calm stretch dotted with a little-known artificial island known locally as “Ostrvo” (The Island). Locals flock here on weekends to escape the urban buzz, lounging on grassy banks, grilling pljeskavica, or swimming cautiously in calmer eddies.

For a unique experience, hop on a hand-rowed wooden ferry operated by a retired fisherman named Tome. For just 50 denars (less than $1), he’ll ferry you across, offering a quick history lesson en route. Once there, enjoy fresh kiselo mleko (yogurt drink) from a pop-up stand and watch local fishermen mend their nets.

Best time to go: Late afternoon on a weekday—fewer people, golden light, unforgettable views.


Final Thoughts: Scopje Rewritten

Scopje is often misunderstood—a city caught between epochs, aesthetics, and identities. But for those willing to wander beyond the curated city centre, it reveals itself in murmurs: a poet reading in a courtyard, a whiff of rose oil from an open window, the rhythmic clang of a blacksmith’s hammer.

These five experiences aren’t just “things to do”—they’re invitations to connect. To slow down. To listen. To become part of Scopje’s quiet, unfolding story.

So next time you’re in town, skip the statue selfies (at least for a morning) and let the city surprise you. The road less travelled in Scopje isn’t just scenic—it’s soul-stirring.


Have you discovered your own hidden gem in Scopje? Share your offbeat adventures in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Tallinn

Beyond the Old Town: 5 Road-Less-Travelled Things to Do in Tallinn

When most travellers think of Tallinn, the image that springs to mind is of cobbled streets, medieval towers, and the fairytale charm of its UNESCO-listed Old Town. It’s no wonder—Tallinn’s historic heart is enchanting, and rightly so. But venture just beyond the postcard-perfect walls, and you’ll discover a quieter, more authentic side of Estonia’s capital—one brimming with creativity, nature, and local spirit.

If you’ve already admired the view from Toompea Hill and sipped craft beer in Town Hall Square, it’s time to stray from the beaten path. Here are five unique and lesser-known experiences that reveal the soul of Tallinn beyond the tourist trail.


1. Explore the Abandoned Military Bunkers of Nahkakivi Nature Park

Tucked away in a pine forest just 30 minutes east of the city lies Nahkakivi Nature Park, a serene yet haunting reminder of Estonia’s Soviet past. Scattered throughout the woods are dozens of abandoned military bunkers—concrete relics hidden beneath moss and ferns, remnants of Cold War paranoia.

Hiking through this tranquil forest, you’ll stumble upon camouflaged tunnels, rusting artillery platforms, and watchtowers half-swallowed by nature. It’s an eerie, atmospheric exploration that doubles as a thought-provoking history lesson. Locals come here for peace, photography, and even forest yoga—making it a perfect escape for introspective travellers.

➡️ Pro Tip: Visit in autumn when golden leaves contrast with grey concrete, or summer for lush greenery. Bring a flashlight and a sense of adventure.


2. Sip Local Brews at a Pirate-Themed Microbrewery in Kopli

Tucked into Tallinn’s industrial Kopli district—once home to a bustling shipyard—Piraat Brewery offers a quirky, offbeat experience. More than just a pub, Piraat is a cultural institution with a pirate crew (yes, they dress the part), live folk music, and beers brewed using ancient Estonian recipes.

You won’t find many tourists here—just locals laughing over tankards of smoky koduõlu (home-brew) and hearty black bread soup. The taproom feels like stepping into a cozy nautical legend, complete with anchors, maps, and a fireplace surrounded by wooden barrels.

➡️ Try This: The flagship “Piraat” ale, dark and malty, or their seasonal herbal brews infused with juniper and wild berries.


3. Wander Through the Hidden Courtyards of Kalamaja

While most visitors flock to the pastel houses of Kalamaja for photos, few venture into its network of hidden courtyards. These intimate inner spaces, tucked behind unassuming doors, are pockets of bohemian soul—filled with street art, cat cafes, independent galleries, and tiny designer boutiques.

Kalamaja, a former working-class district, has transformed into a creative enclave. Spend an hour wandering alleys like Lühike jalg and Kopli, where vintage stores, ceramic workshops, and open studios reveal the city’s artistic pulse. Don’t miss the “Suur Rämba” house—a colourful, graffiti-covered community art project.

➡️ Local Insight: Time your visit with the Kalamaja Days festival (June) when courtyards fling open their doors for guided tours and live music.


4. Take a Ferry to Aegna Island for a Wild Nature Escape

Just an hour by public ferry from the city centre lies Aegna Island—a wild, forested escape with no cars, no hotels, and no crowds. Once a Soviet military zone, Aegna is now a protected nature reserve with hiking trails winding through pine forests, WWII ruins, and overgrown observation towers.

Birdwatchers, hikers, and solitude seekers flock here for the silence and the surreal feeling of undiscovered wilderness minutes from the capital. Bring a picnic, spot deer or rare woodpeckers, and climb the island’s highest point for panoramic views of the Gulf of Finland.

➡️ How to Go: Catch the seasonal ferry from Sitsi Harbour (spring to autumn), or rent a kayak from the mainland.


5. Uncover Street Art & Urban Gentrification in Balti Jaam Market District

Forget sterile shopping malls—Tallinn’s most vibrant shopping and dining scene unfolds at Balti Jaam Market. Located in a converted 19th-century train warehouse near the city’s central train station, this former grey-market hub has blossomed into a hipster haven.

Inside, you’ll find vintage clothing stalls, farm-to-table food trucks, local design pop-ups, and cozy cafés serving Baltic rye sourdough and third-wave coffee. Graffiti covers the outer walls, and the atmosphere hums with youthful energy.

But the real secret? The surrounding streets—Lühike, Väike, and Soo—are lined with street art murals, tucked-away galleries, and micro-theatres. It’s a neighbourhood reborn, where grassroots creativity thrives just beyond the tourist radar.

➡️ Must-Do: Grab a kohuke (Estonian curd snack) from a vendor and explore the back alleys—every corner holds a surprise.


Final Thoughts: Rediscover Tallinn Off the Map

Tallinn’s charm isn’t confined to its medieval ramparts. By stepping into forgotten forests, abandoned fortresses, and neighbourhood courtyards, you experience the city as locals do—dynamic, layered, and quietly poetic.

So next time you’re wandering the Old Town, remember: adventure waits just around the corner. Whether you’re chasing Soviet ghosts in the woods or sipping pirate ale under candlelight, the road less travelled in Tallinn always leads somewhere unforgettable.

📍 Pack your curiosity—and maybe a flashlight. The real Tallinn is waiting.

Skeletons in the closet, and doppelgangers

A story called “Mistaken Identity”

How many of us have skeletons in the closet that we know nothing about? The skeletons we know about generally stay there, but those we do not, well, they have a habit of coming out of left field when we least expect it.

In this case, when you see your photo on a TV screen with the accompanying text that says you are wanted by every law enforcement agency in Europe, you’re in a state of shock, only to be compounded by those same police, armed and menacing, kicking the door down.

I’d been thinking about this premise for a while after I discovered my mother had a boyfriend before she married my father, a boyfriend who was, by all accounts, the man who was the love of her life.

Then, in terms of coming up with an idea for a story, what if she had a child by him that we didn’t know about, which might mean I had a half brother or sister I knew nothing about. It’s not an uncommon occurrence from what I’ve been researching.

There are many ways of putting a spin on this story.

Then, in the back of my mind, I remembered a story an acquaintance at work was once telling us over morning tea, that a friend of a friend had a mother who had a twin sister and that each of the sisters had a son by the same father, without each knowing of the father’s actions, both growing up without the other having any knowledge of their half brother, only to meet by accident on the other side of the world.

It was an encounter that in the scheme of things might never have happened, and each would have remained oblivious of the other.

For one sister, the relationship was over before she discovered she was pregnant, and therefore had not told the man he was a father. It was no surprise the relationship foundered when she discovered he was also having a relationship with her sister, a discovery that caused her to cut all ties with both of them and never speak to either from that day.

It’s a story with more twists and turns than a country lane!

And a great idea for a story.

That story is called ‘Mistaken Identity’.

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 26

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

To the City of Sunshine: Melbourne’s Top Five Visitor Destinations in March 1915

A Journey Back to the Great War Era, When Tram Bells Rang and Empire Loyalties Were Paramount.

Modern Melbourne is a vibrant fusion of gleaming skyscrapers, hidden laneway bars, and world-class sporting arenas. But cast your mind back 109 years, to the sweltering late summer of 1915.

Australia was barely 14 years old as a federated nation, and the Great War (the war to end all wars) was dominating civic life. Thousands of young men were training outside the city, preparing for an unknown fate in distant Gallipoli, and Melbourne—the unofficial cultural capital—buzzed with patriotism, anxiety, and a fierce determination to keep life proceeding apace.

If you arrived in Melbourne by steamer or train in March 1915, seeking culture, leisure, or respite, where would a respectable visitor spend their time?

Here are the Top Five essential places to visit, a snapshot of life in the ‘Marvellous Melbourne’ of the Great War era.


1. The Public Library, Museum, and National Gallery (Current State Library Victoria & NGV)

In 1915, these three institutions were housed together in the grand complex on Swanston Street. This was not just a repository of books; it was the intellectual and cultural heart of the Commonwealth.

What You Would See:

  • The Dome: The spectacular octagonal reading room (the famous Domed Reading Room) had opened just ten years earlier and was a stunning architectural wonder. You would see men—and increasingly, women—poring over newspapers and ledgers, often discussing war news in hushed tones.
  • Art & Artifacts: The National Gallery sector displayed works purchased through the burgeoning Felton Bequest, providing access to European masters and important local artists.
  • The Atmosphere: A place of serious contemplation, where city officials mingled with students and researchers, all seeking knowledge away from the intense energy of the streets.

2. The Royal Botanic Gardens and the Shrine’s Future Site

While the magnificent Shrine of Remembrance would not be built until the 1930s, the surrounding area was already one of Melbourne’s most beloved leisure spots.

What You Would See:

  • The Gardens: March was the perfect time for a late-summer promenade. Visitors strolled along the Ornamental Lake, admired the recently established Tropical Glasshouse, and enjoyed picnics beneath the historic elms and oaks that had been growing since the mid-19th century.
  • The People: This was the definitive spot for society to see and be seen. You would observe impeccably dressed ladies in high-necked lace and enormous hats, often accompanied by men in civilian suits or military uniforms on brief leave.
  • Patriotic Displays: On Sundays, it was common to see unofficial gatherings or concerts raising funds for the war effort, turning the scenic grounds into a hub of patriotic activity.

3. The Block Arcade and Bourke Street

The central business district of Melbourne in 1915 was defined by the stunning Victorian and Edwardian architecture of its key retail streets. No spot was more essential for a visitor than the glorious indoor thoroughfare of The Block Arcade.

What You Would See:

  • High Commerce: This was the place to acquire the latest fashions, fine jewellery, and imported delicacies. Shops like Georges and others nearby set the retail standard for the nation.
  • Taking Tea: A visit to The Block was incomplete without taking afternoon tea at the famed Hopetoun Tea Rooms, with its opulent setting and renowned cakes.
  • Tram Life: Bourke Street was the beating heart of the city’s electric tram network, still relatively new. The jingle of the trams was the soundtrack to the busy street, ferrying commuters and shoppers to and from the inner suburbs. The sheer volume of people flowing through this intersection was truly ‘Marvellous Melbourne’ on display.

4. St. Kilda Esplanade and Pier

To escape the grime and tension of the central city, Melbourne residents would take the train or tram south to the seaside suburb of St. Kilda. While not yet the bohemian hub it would become later in the century, St. Kilda offered fresh air and seaside entertainment.

What You Would See:

  • The Pier: St. Kilda Pier was a major destination. Visitors could stroll out over the water, watch fishermen, and perhaps catch a view of the ships coming and going from Port Melbourne, many of which would soon carry troops overseas.
  • The Kiosk: At the end of the pier, a charming, distinctive Kiosk (the current structure is a later replacement) offered simple refreshments and sweeping views of the bay.
  • Luna Park: While the famous Luna Park didn’t open until 1912, it had quickly become a fixture. The exhilarating sights and sounds of the “Big Dipper” and the famous ‘Mr. Moon’ entrance provided a necessary distraction from the looming shadow of the war.

5. Parliament House and Treasury Gardens

In 1915, Melbourne’s Parliament House was still the primary legislative chamber for the newly formed Commonwealth of Australia (Canberra was under construction, not yet operational). This area was the hub of political decision-making.

What You Would See:

  • The Architecture: The massive, imposing structure of Parliament House, with its grand steps, symbolized the youthful power of the Australian government. Given the ongoing war, the discussions within were crucial—debates about conscription, finances, and troop deployments were frequent and heated.
  • The Gardens: Across the street, the stately Treasury Gardens offered a quieter, more formal alternative to the Botanic Gardens. It was a place for political power brokers to hold discrete meetings, or simply for weary citizens to sit and read the latest casualty lists published in the daily paper.
  • The Government Presence: Unlike today, the area was saturated with military staff and government clerks rushing between the various official buildings, underscoring Melbourne’s role as the wartime political capital.

March 1915: A City of Contradictions

Visiting Melbourne in March 1915 was to experience a city operating at full tilt, yet under immense psychological pressure. These five destinations remind us that even as the world prepared for unprecedented conflict, the necessity of culture, leisure, and civic pride remained undeniable.

It was a Melbourne built on certainty and Victorian grandeur, soon to be irrevocably changed by the events of the global conflict that lay just weeks ahead.


Step Into History

What forgotten Melbourne historical site would you most like to visit if you could travel back to 1915? Share your thoughts below!

The 2am Rant: We’re out in the country

Or almost

When you venture out from the city, particularly, this city, you find yourself among the blocks that run to several acres, allotments that are ideal for keeping a horse or two.

Inner suburban living often runs to high-rise apartment blocks, with no gardens, except perhaps on the roof.

Outer suburban living runs to individual houses on allotments that are from 600 to 2,000 square meters. We have not yet gone into mass building of duplexes or terrace housing because, for the time being, we don’t have the population.

And, this is why you only have to go about 35 kilometres from the centre of the city to be able to buy acreage.

So, we are visiting, and on such a glorious day, it’s a pleasure to sit on the back verandah, spending some time soaking up the sunshine, breathing the country’s fresh air, and letting the inspiration flow into the writing.

It works.

I’ve managed to write another photograph-inspired story, number 151, which will be published on my writing blog in the next day or so.

Also being tackled will be the next episode of PI Walthensen’s second case – nearing 60.

Unfortunately, though, the inspirational location didn’t afford me a title for this new case but it will have the opening three words “A Case Of…’

The rest, I’m sure, will come as the story unfolds.