What I learned about writing – Inspiration comes from the most unlikely sources

A hotel bar can be a writer’s paradise for characters

I’m not a night person and even less so a pub person, except perhaps for a Sunday lunch, for what is usually an incomparable steak.

But tonight is different.

We’re meeting people who have come up from Melbourne for a wedding, people we haven’t seen for a long time.

I’m not a conversationalist, so I leave them to it, and go on a character hunt.

And the pickings are rich.

My first victim, If she could be called that, is the one I call the lady in the red dress.

She’s on the other side of 40, with a sort of earthy attractiveness about her.  The first thing to notice, for her age, the dress is too short.  Maybe that’s the fashion and I’m just an old fogey, but it does say something.

She’s definitely single, or perhaps a player, certainly a flirt.  She holds the stage, and talks with her hands, and those around her are captivated.

The untidy hair loosely collected in a hair tie tells me she carries a sort of messy but not messy look, and I wonder at the state of her residence.  It’s a leap I know, but small signs indicate bigger things.

I’ve counted two glasses of beer in an hour and a half, so she is sensible, aware of her surroundings, and of the three men she has spent her time with, it’s hard to pick a winner.  It’s not hard to captivate a loser.

Next comes the party girls three 20 somethings dressed to be noticed, and overly animated and screams look at us.

Oops, they just parked themselves nearby with the very expensive and exotic-looking matching cocktails.  There’s the obligatory selfie together, and then a casual look around to see what’s on offer.

I don’t think there’s a lot, but my standards and their standards are most likely miles apart.

Hang on, news flash, they’re a part of another group nearby, several older office workers who could be the so-called chaperones, or just having a quiet drink before having to go home to any of, a family, a car, an empty flat, or blessed relief the week is finally over.

Next door to us is a family group, the kids are teens, and I’m wondering if the boys are boyfriends.  The mother is an older, very attractive version of the daughter.

Perhaps it’s an experience for the girls because I don’t see a man who could act as a husband unless it’s the second time around with a younger version.

Why not.  Men do it, why can’t women.  But out on the town with your teenage children?

The bar’s entertainment … a single guy playing the guitar, along with backing music that makes him sound better, but people seem to agree that it’s good but not brilliant.

He’s singing covers, which may have made him just so so, perhaps if he sang his own material it might take him to the next level.

But, who cares, no one seems to be listening, the noise level of what seems like a thousand concurrent conversations drowning out any appreciation.  

Of course, it’s headache-inducing because he has the volume so high, just to get over the ambient noise, and in doing so, it takes away the intrinsic musicality of it all, and it’s just more noise to contend with.

I suppose it’s better than canned music.

OK, news flash, the red dress had moved down the table and settled on a prospect, about 15 years younger.  Her animation has intensified, and yes, there’s the casual brushing against him, like a cat marking its territory.

The night is young, and it’s looking good.  I’m not going to pretend I have given a passing thought to spending a few minutes with her, for character creation purposes only.

And yes, we now have a sing-along.  At half-past eight, it’s a bit early for the crowd to be too exuberant.

A squeal shatters the, well, not silence, and is one of the groups pretending like someone had dripped ice down the back of a dress that has no back, the next phase of attention-getting.

And, attention directed their way, they do a little dance, skol the drinks, and with all eyes on them, head to the bar for round two, or is that three.  Several others join them, but they don’t need to do the dance.  The lack of clothes more than makes up for the squeals.

If these are the modern mating rituals a lot has changed in the last 50 years.  Or perhaps not, I’m just too old to remember.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Rhodes

That’s a great question! While Rhodes is famous for its Colossus and the Old Town, the island is large enough to hide numerous quieter corners.

Here are five places or activities to explore on a road less travelled in Rhodes:

1. The Medieval Fortress of Monolithos

  • What it is: A picturesque, ruined 15th-century castle built by the Knights of St. John, perched atop a massive, isolated rock overlooking the sea on the southwest coast.
  • Why it’s less travelled: It’s located far from the main resort towns and requires a dedicated drive. The destination itself is just the ruin and a small, functional chapel (Agios Panteleimonas), offering a quiet, reflective experience.
  • Activity: Climb the stone steps to the top for incredible panoramic views of the rugged coastline, the sea, and the nearby small island of Halki, especially beautiful at sunset.

2. Exploring the South Coast Beaches (e.g., Agathi or Prasonisi)

While the northern beaches are packed, the southern tip of the island offers wilder, quieter, and more remote stretches of sand.

  • Prasonisi: This is a small peninsula connected to Rhodes by a narrow strip of sand, creating two bays. It’s a spectacular natural spot.
    • Activity: It’s famous for windsurfing and kitesurfing due to the strong winds, offering an active alternative to sunbathing. One side is calm, and the other is wavy.
  • Agathi Beach (Golden Sand Beach): Though not completely unknown, it is significantly quieter than Faliraki or Tsambika, featuring fine golden sand and shallow, crystal-clear water.

3. The Seven Springs (Epta Piges) Tunnel Walk

Located inland, this is a cool, forested area offering a unique, slightly adventurous activity away from the beaches.

  • What it is: A lush oasis where seven natural springs converge to feed a river. The water is channelled through a dark, narrow, man-made tunnel built in 1931.
  • Activity: Walk the 186-meter-long tunnel! The water is shallow, but it’s pitch black, cold, and narrow, making it an adventurous and refreshing walk (if you prefer to stay dry, there is a path overground). It leads to a small lake where you can relax.

4. The Petaloudes Valley (Valley of the Butterflies)

While it attracts visitors, the Valley of the Butterflies offers a unique natural experience that takes you away from the coastal towns and focuses on nature conservation.

  • What it is: A unique habitat and one of the only places in Europe where the Panaxia Quadripunctaria (Jersey Tiger Moth) gathers in large numbers during the summer months (usually July and August).
  • Activity: Follow the gentle hiking path that winds through the cool, shaded valley, crossing small wooden bridges and waterfalls. It’s less about beach time and more about appreciating the island’s biodiversity and unique microclimate.

5. The Kamiros Ruins and Traditional Village of Embona

Kamiros and Embona offer a deep dive into the island’s history and local life, away from the bustling tourist centres.

  • Kamiros: Located on the west coast, this is one of the three ancient cities of Rhodes (alongside Lindos and Ialysos). It is a quieter, less-visited archaeological site.
    • Activity: Explore the well-preserved ruins of the Hellenistic city, which was abandoned centuries ago, giving you a sense of a genuine, unearthed ancient town without the crowds of a major landmark.
  • Embona: A traditional, mountainous village located on the slopes of Mount Attavyros (the island’s highest peak).
    • Activity: Embona is the centre of the island’s wine production. Visit a local winery, taste the indigenous varieties, and enjoy a traditional Greek lunch far from the tourist tavernas.

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 13

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

Logistical Analysis of Imperial Volunteer Mobilisation: Brisbane to the Force in Egypt, March 1915

I. Strategic Context: Navigating Administrative Jurisdiction in Australia (March 1915)

The mobilisation of a British subject from Queensland, Australia, for direct Imperial Army service in Egypt during March 1915 presents a unique logistical problem defined by the necessity of bypassing the highly organised and centrally administered Australian Imperial Force (AIF). While the Australian Government had pledged substantial forces to Britain and recruitment for the AIF was proceeding robustly across the Dominion 1, the individual mandate to report for enlistment specifically to an overseas Imperial camp compels a fundamentally different administrative and financial pathway.

A. The Mandate: Imperial Service vs. Dominion Enlistment

In August 1914, recruitment offices for the AIF were swiftly established across Australia, rapidly processing thousands of volunteers willing to support the British Empire.2 By early 1915, AIF recruitment was centralised in major cities and towns, often relying on massive urban depots like those in Sydney and Melbourne.3 Volunteers for the AIF benefited significantly from this national mobilisation structure. New AIF recruits received a free railway ticket to the nearest city where basic military training was established, indicating that the Commonwealth absorbed all initial domestic travel costs.2 Furthermore, troops were transported overseas on requisitioned vessels designated as HMATs (His Majesty’s Australian Transports).4

The user’s explicit requirement to avoid AIF enlistment means forgoing this entire subsidised logistical chain. Since UK conscription was not enacted until January 1916 6, the individual is proceeding as a volunteer, potentially a reservist, reporting directly to the War Office authority overseas. This administrative difference means the entire journey must be treated as a self-funded civilian mobilisation, requiring specific clearance.

B. Administrative Requirement: Securing Imperial Clearance and Financial Liability

The first administrative step, after determining the intention to serve the Imperial forces directly, is securing documentation. Given the AIF’s effective monopoly on local military recruitment 7, the individual must locate the nearest representative of the Imperial military authority, likely a British naval attaché or consular office in Brisbane or, more probably, Sydney. This official would need to register the subject’s status and issue necessary travel documentation (such as a warrant or passport endorsement) confirming the destination in Egypt. This documentation is critical for legitimate disembarkation in the highly controlled military zone around the Suez Canal.

The avoidance of the AIF structure carries a substantial financial implication. Where AIF troops were transported free of charge, the independent Imperial subject must acquire commercial passage. An analysis of commercial fares advertised around 1914 and early 1915 confirms this significant expenditure. Saloon (First Class) tickets from Australia to London (which passed through the Suez Canal) were priced around £40, while the economically necessary Third Class (Steerage) fares ranged from £16 16/ to £18 18/.8 This outlay, borne entirely by the individual, contrasts sharply with the zero cost for AIF volunteers and represents a fundamental logistical burden imposed by the choice of Imperial service.

II. The Queensland Dilemma: Securing Commercial Maritime Passage

The location of the individual in Brisbane, Queensland, necessitates an initial phase of internal travel to secure a suitable vessel for the long-haul transit to the Suez Canal zone, as Brisbane was not the primary wartime hub for major Imperial sailings.

A. Brisbane’s Role in Wartime Logistics

In March 1915, the overwhelming majority of Australian contingent movements—both the initial First Convoy (November 1914) and the Second Convoy (December 1914)—departed from southern and western ports, specifically Albany, Melbourne, or Sydney.9 Brisbane was primarily integrated into the inter-state coastal steamer network.10 To secure a booking on a commercial passenger liner operating the Imperial route via Suez—vessels belonging to lines such as P. & O. Branch Service, White Star, or Aberdeen Lines 8—the individual must transit from Brisbane to a larger, federally important embarkation point, such as Sydney or Melbourne. This domestic travel segment must be self-funded, compounding the initial financial burden.

B. Commercial Shipping Availability and Viable Vessels

Despite the requisitioning of numerous vessels for military service (HMATs), key British passenger lines maintained irregular commercial services to the United Kingdom via the Suez Canal route.5 The operational environment in March 1915 was characterised by rapid military requirements leading to the constant conversion of ships, such as the Wandilla, which was converted to a troopship in March 1915.12

Crucially, the historical record confirms that individual transports, or ships carrying reinforcements, were sailing to Egypt in this precise timeframe. Documentation shows that a soldier identified as “Arthur” embarked on 13 March 1915, sailing directly to Alexandria, Egypt.13 This confirms the existence of vessels cleared for passage that month. The individual, having obtained Imperial clearance, would need to secure a berth on one of these commercial liners or, if permitted by Imperial authorities, a space aboard an official reinforcement transport sailing to the Middle East, which was the established training area before the Gallipoli campaign began the following month.14 Regardless of the specific vessel, the booking would require adherence to stringent naval control measures implemented for wartime security.

The divergent requirements for the individual, compared to the majority of men enlisting, are summarised below:

Commercial Passage Feasibility (Brisbane to Suez, March 1915)

CriterionAIF Route (Rejected)Imperial Subject (Required Route)
Local EnlistmentAIF Depot (Sydney/Melbourne) 3British Consular/Naval Authority (Self-report)
Initial Travel (Qld to Port)Free Railway Pass 2Self-funded Rail or Coastal Steamer to Sydney/Melbourne 10
Vessel TypeHMAT (Requisitioned Transport) 4Commercial Liner or Reinforcement Transport 11
Passage Cost (Australia to Suez)Free (Covered by AIF)£16 16/ to £40 (Third Class/Saloon) 8
DocumentationAIF Paybook/Identity DiscImperial travel permit and proof of personal funds

III. The Voyage: Conditions and Duration (Australia to Port Said)

The maritime journey from the Australian eastern seaboard to the Suez Canal zone constituted the longest and most physically demanding segment of the mobilisation process, typically lasting over one month and exposing the traveller to inherent wartime dangers.

A. Estimated Duration and Route

The voyage length depended heavily on the number of port calls and the speed of the vessel, which, in wartime, was often dictated by naval requirements rather than commercial schedules. Historical accounts from mid-1915 voyages indicate that the transit from a major departure port (such as Sydney/Melbourne) to the Suez Canal area (Suez port) averaged approximately 31 days.15

Accounting for the necessary internal transit from Brisbane to the southern departure port, the total time commitment from Queensland to disembarkation in Egypt would likely range between five and seven weeks. The established Imperial route proceeded across the Indian Ocean, typically involving a significant refuelling and provisioning stop at Colombo, before proceeding via Aden and into the Red Sea.4

B. Wartime Conditions and Naval Security

As an independent paying civilian, the individual’s journey would be defined by the security protocols governing merchant shipping. While the largest Australian troop contingents were often grouped into convoys for naval protection 4, many transport vessels in 1915 were dispatched alone, sometimes without naval escort, underlining the inherent risks of trans-oceanic travel in a global conflict.5

The physical environment during the final approach to Egypt was notoriously difficult. Upon entering the Red Sea, the heat became “terrific”.15 This extreme climate, combined with the inevitable crowding and potentially inadequate sanitation common to vessels repurposed for wartime use or carrying large numbers of steerage passengers, represented a significant test of endurance before active service even began.

C. Transit Through the Suez Zone

The journey culminated in transit through the Suez Canal area, a vital strategic waterway fiercely protected by British and Indian forces against Ottoman threats.17 Disembarkation points for troops included Alexandria, Suez, and Port Said.19 Troops arriving at the southern end of the Canal (Suez) often anchored for up to two days before disembarking.15 For the purpose of reaching the camps near Cairo, Port Said (at the northern terminus) or Suez (at the southern terminus) were the most likely points of entry for onward military travel.

IV. Arrival in Egypt: Port Said, Rail Transit, and Entry into the Force in Egypt

Upon arrival in the Suez Canal zone, the British subject transitioned instantly from self-funded civilian traveller to an inducted military asset under the direct control of the British Army’s command structure in Egypt.

A. Disembarkation Protocol and Military Control

Egypt served as a British Protectorate and a massive logistical staging ground for campaigns against the Ottoman Empire.21 The arrival port (Port Said or Suez) was a high-security military zone, vital for unloading not only manpower but also animals, guns, and supplies.19

Immediately upon disembarkation, the individual would fall under the strict military jurisdiction of the local garrison command, which was responsible for managing the massive influx of personnel. Administrative priorities focused heavily on sanitation and discipline. Newly arrived troops were subject to mandatory lectures on personal hygiene and venereal disease (VD) prevention.9 Specific areas of port cities and Cairo, known for vice, were designated “out of bounds” by military orders to mitigate health and discipline issues that were rampant among the high number of foreign troops.9

The Force in Egypt, commanded by General John Maxwell, was the established formation responsible for garrisoning the armed forces and defending the Suez Canal in 1915.17 The independent Imperial subject would be channelled directly into this British administrative structure, effectively segregating their processing from the vast, concurrent mobilisation of the ANZAC forces.

B. Rail Transit to the Cairo Camp Complex

The final movement from the port to the capital region relied upon the military-controlled Egyptian railway system, a critical logistical artery running along the Suez Canal.18 Travel by train from Suez overland to Cairo was documented as taking approximately seven hours.15

The destination for the independent British subject would be a British-controlled military establishment in the Cairo area, as opposed to the primary Australian hub. While Australian troops were famously concentrated at Mena Camp, a vast training facility near the Giza pyramids approximately 16 kilometres from Cairo 9, the British forces utilised other established bases. The Imperial recruit would likely be routed to one of several key British camps or barracks:

  1. Zeitoun Camp: A significant British base in the Cairo area.19
  2. Kasr el-Nil barracks: A key British presence located directly in Cairo’s Ismailiya district, near the administrative headquarters in Azbakiyya Square.19
  3. Tel el Kebir: A major training centre located roughly halfway between Port Said and Cairo, used for reinforcement training.19

The individual would be reporting to the Force in Egypt headquarters, which was centred in Cairo (e.g., the Cosmopolitan Hotel served as the military headquarters).21

The summary of the final logistical stage is as follows:

In-Theatre Transit (Port Said/Suez to Cairo, March 1915)

StageStart PointEnd PointMode of TransportEstimated DurationAdministrative Context
DisembarkationCanal Zone TransportSuez or Port Said Quay 19Port/Naval Transfer1–2 daysImmediate imposition of military rule; health protocols initiated 9
Camp TransitPort Said/SuezCairo Area (British Bases) 19Military Railway 18~7 hoursMovement into the core staging and training areas of the Force in Egypt 17
InductionBritish Camp (Zeitoun/Kasr el-Nil) 19Training BarracksFoot/Internal Transport1–3 daysMedical examination, documentation processing, and kit issue 22

V. Reception and Integration: Induction into the Imperial Force in Egypt (1915)

The final administrative step involved the induction process into the existing British military establishment in Egypt, which, in 1915, was primarily focused on canal defence and preparing troops for potential deployment elsewhere.

A. Induction Process and Logistical Shortages

Upon arrival at the assigned British camp near Cairo, the recruit would undergo formal administrative processing under the authority of the Force in Egypt.17 Given the immense volunteer rush experienced globally by the British Army in the initial phase of the war, the processing system was often strained and characterised by haste.22

The initial medical examination was designed to quickly vet the volunteer’s fitness for service.22 Historical evidence suggests that early in the war, the pressure to acquire manpower often led recruiting sergeants and medical officers to relax physical standards, resulting in men with existing medical conditions being accepted.23 The individual should expect a rapid, possibly perfunctory, medical inspection before formal attestation.

Following acceptance, the new soldier would be issued equipment and a uniform.24 However, the logistical infrastructure in 1914–1915 struggled to keep pace with the huge volume of incoming volunteers. As a result, conditions in training camps were often basic, and supplies of necessary equipment were limited.22 The issued uniform might be ill-fitting or incomplete, a common complaint among new recruits during this period.24

B. Training Environment and Camp Life

The newly inducted soldier would be assigned to a unit or a general reinforcement depot, likely at Zeitoun or possibly Tel el Kebir, joining the stream of Territorial Force or New Army reinforcements funnelling through Egypt.19

Training was immediate and intensive, typically involving six days of activity per week.9 While the physical environment was novel, camp life was highly disciplined. The proximity of the military camps to Cairo meant that the new troops were introduced immediately to an exotic, yet volatile, urban environment. Soldiers were allowed to explore Cairo city, renowned for its bazaars, cafés, and vice districts.9 This interaction frequently led to tension and physical confrontations with local residents, who were sometimes viewed with mistrust by the soldiers, particularly the well-paid Dominion troops.9 The infamous “Battles of the Wazzer” (May/June 1915) were violent clashes involving troops and local business owners in Cairo’s entertainment district, a direct consequence of the strain placed on the city by the large military presence.21

To combat disciplinary problems and prevent the spread of disease, the military established strict controls, including declaring certain city areas off-limits and even setting up medically controlled brothels overseen by the Medical Corps.9 The new recruit, therefore, entered a training environment defined not only by drill and fitness but also by strict adherence to military regulations aimed at minimising cultural friction and preserving public health within the crucial Egyptian staging ground.

Conclusions

The administrative requirement for a British subject in Queensland to report directly for Imperial enlistment in Egypt in March 1915 critically defined their logistical experience. By avoiding the AIF’s streamlined and subsidised mobilisation, the individual assumed full financial responsibility for travel, requiring an outlay of between £16 and £40 for commercial passage via the Suez Canal route.8

The journey required a mandatory, self-funded internal transit from Brisbane to a major southern port (Sydney or Melbourne) to secure passage on an irregular commercial liner or reinforcement transport sailing to the Middle East. The long voyage, lasting approximately 31 days across the Indian Ocean and through the intensely hot Red Sea, culminated in disembarkation at a military port like Suez or Port Said.

The final leg of the journey involved transfer by military railway (approximately seven hours) to a British training establishment in the Cairo area, such as Zeitoun Camp or Kasr el-Nil barracks, distinct from the large Australian training area at Mena. Induction would be swift, marked by potentially rushed medical inspection and the issuance of basic, possibly incomplete, kit. The soldier was immediately integrated into the volatile military ecosystem of the Force in Egypt, characterised by intense training, stringent discipline, and high cultural tension with the local population.

The 2am Rant: Is there something wrong?

I asked myself that question when about 1000 odd words into a current short story, one that I continue to go back to, but found an initial reluctance to write, and now seems to be difficult to continue.

Is the reason because I don’t feel like writing, that I’ve written myself into a corner, the story isn’t flowing, or there’s something else I’d rather be doing…

Like, scouring the internet…

Working on writing some blog posts, like this one…

Checking my email…

Checking my other blogs to see how many people have viewed my recent posts,

Or just puddle with anything other than what I should be doing.

The thing is, I know where most of the stories are going, it’s just a matter of sitting down, picking up the threads, and writing. Certainly, I could be working on one or another right now.

But, something is nagging at me.

I thought it was that I wanted to write another Being Inspired piece, having the photo I wanted to use for inspiration in my head. I sat down this morning and started it, and got seven or eight paragraphs done, and then it was time to go down to breakfast.

Attention diverted.

I could have written more after breakfast, but that seemed to segue into a chat over coffee that ran into lunch. It’s odd how it seems there is so much to talk about.

Then it’s been one excuse after another that has kept me from picking up that story and running with it. I could do it now, but that reluctance remains.

Perhaps tomorrow.

For now, I’m going to work on some crosswords and see if that doesn’t inspire me, and if it doesn’t I could always have an early night.

It’s the same every time we go away, on the run all day doing touristy stuff, making notes for later on, on the run, and then getting back to the room exhausted. After all, there is so much to see and do.

Maybe I’ll just reflect on today and worry about it tomorrow, except…

We have an equally hectic day planned.

Maybe I’ll get that holiday from writing after all.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Rhodes

That’s a great question! While Rhodes is famous for its Colossus and the Old Town, the island is large enough to hide numerous quieter corners.

Here are five places or activities to explore on a road less travelled in Rhodes:

1. The Medieval Fortress of Monolithos

  • What it is: A picturesque, ruined 15th-century castle built by the Knights of St. John, perched atop a massive, isolated rock overlooking the sea on the southwest coast.
  • Why it’s less travelled: It’s located far from the main resort towns and requires a dedicated drive. The destination itself is just the ruin and a small, functional chapel (Agios Panteleimonas), offering a quiet, reflective experience.
  • Activity: Climb the stone steps to the top for incredible panoramic views of the rugged coastline, the sea, and the nearby small island of Halki, especially beautiful at sunset.

2. Exploring the South Coast Beaches (e.g., Agathi or Prasonisi)

While the northern beaches are packed, the southern tip of the island offers wilder, quieter, and more remote stretches of sand.

  • Prasonisi: This is a small peninsula connected to Rhodes by a narrow strip of sand, creating two bays. It’s a spectacular natural spot.
    • Activity: It’s famous for windsurfing and kitesurfing due to the strong winds, offering an active alternative to sunbathing. One side is calm, and the other is wavy.
  • Agathi Beach (Golden Sand Beach): Though not completely unknown, it is significantly quieter than Faliraki or Tsambika, featuring fine golden sand and shallow, crystal-clear water.

3. The Seven Springs (Epta Piges) Tunnel Walk

Located inland, this is a cool, forested area offering a unique, slightly adventurous activity away from the beaches.

  • What it is: A lush oasis where seven natural springs converge to feed a river. The water is channelled through a dark, narrow, man-made tunnel built in 1931.
  • Activity: Walk the 186-meter-long tunnel! The water is shallow, but it’s pitch black, cold, and narrow, making it an adventurous and refreshing walk (if you prefer to stay dry, there is a path overground). It leads to a small lake where you can relax.

4. The Petaloudes Valley (Valley of the Butterflies)

While it attracts visitors, the Valley of the Butterflies offers a unique natural experience that takes you away from the coastal towns and focuses on nature conservation.

  • What it is: A unique habitat and one of the only places in Europe where the Panaxia Quadripunctaria (Jersey Tiger Moth) gathers in large numbers during the summer months (usually July and August).
  • Activity: Follow the gentle hiking path that winds through the cool, shaded valley, crossing small wooden bridges and waterfalls. It’s less about beach time and more about appreciating the island’s biodiversity and unique microclimate.

5. The Kamiros Ruins and Traditional Village of Embona

Kamiros and Embona offer a deep dive into the island’s history and local life, away from the bustling tourist centres.

  • Kamiros: Located on the west coast, this is one of the three ancient cities of Rhodes (alongside Lindos and Ialysos). It is a quieter, less-visited archaeological site.
    • Activity: Explore the well-preserved ruins of the Hellenistic city, which was abandoned centuries ago, giving you a sense of a genuine, unearthed ancient town without the crowds of a major landmark.
  • Embona: A traditional, mountainous village located on the slopes of Mount Attavyros (the island’s highest peak).
    • Activity: Embona is the centre of the island’s wine production. Visit a local winery, taste the indigenous varieties, and enjoy a traditional Greek lunch far from the tourist tavernas.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Crete

Crete is a large island with many stunning locations that are far from the main tourist crowds. To help you on your road less travelled, here are five “next best” places and activities offering unique and authentic Cretan experiences.


1. Loutro: The Car-Free Seaside Village

Loutro is one of Crete’s most idyllic hidden gems, tucked away on the southwest coast. It is famously accessible only by boat or on foot, ensuring its protected, tranquil, and car-free atmosphere.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: The inability to drive directly to the village makes it a natural barrier to mass tourism. It feels like a remote, car-free island escape.
  • Activity: Relax on the small pebble beach, swim in the turquoise waters of the Libyan Sea, or use it as a base to hike to nearby coastal attractions.

2. Sarakina Gorge: The Hidden Canyon

While Samaria Gorge is famous and crowded, the Sarakina Gorge (sometimes called Sarantapichos Gorge) offers a shorter, equally stunning, and much less-trafficked hiking adventure in southeastern Crete, near the village of Mithi.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: It’s often overlooked by tourists heading to the larger, better-known gorges, offering a raw, untouched hiking experience.
  • Activity: Hike through the narrow canyon. Be prepared for a challenging trek that involves crossing the riverbed and may require wading through water in some sections, depending on the season.

3. Xerokampos: The Unspoilt Beaches of the East

Located on the far eastern coast of Crete, Xerokampos is a small, quiet settlement known for its collection of unspoilt, undeveloped beaches. The drive there is winding and remote, contributing to its solitude.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: Its remote location requires a dedicated drive on mountain roads, meaning few constructions and a distinct lack of crowds, even during high season.
  • Activity: Enjoy pristine sand and crystal-clear waters on a truly secluded beach day. The landscape is unique, with mountains dropping down to the sea.

4. The Abandoned Village of Aradaina: An Atmospheric Ghost Town

Near the Sfakia region in western Crete, the village of Aradaina was deserted in 1948 following a tragic family vendetta. Today, it stands as an atmospheric ghost town overlooking the dramatic Aradena Gorge.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: It is a haunting historical site, not a resort or commercial centre, offering a quiet, slightly eerie, and historically rich stop.
  • Activity: Stroll through the narrow paths and empty stone houses to experience the region’s complex history. You can access it via a long metal bridge that spans the canyon.

5. Agrotouristic Village of Vamos: Authentic Cultural Immersion

The traditional village of Vamos, 25km southeast of Chania, is a pioneer in eco-tourism. A collective of locals has committed to preserving its authentic character and offering traditional experiences.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: This is a chance to move beyond sightseeing and participate in the local, daily life of the island.
  • Activity: Stay in a preserved old mansion, take part in local activities like making bread in a wood-fired oven, picking olives, or learning to prepare raki, the local pomace brandy.

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 12

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

The Red Line to the Pyramids: Logistics and Experience of Troop Movement from Port Said to Cairo Camps, Mid-1915

I. Strategic Context: Egypt as the Entrepôt of Empire in Mid-1915

The logistical chain supporting British and Imperial forces in the Middle Eastern Theatre during the First World War hinged entirely on the operational capacity of Egypt. By mid-1915, following the initial influx of Australian and New Zealand forces in late 1914, Egypt had solidified its position as the critical staging ground for Allied operations.1 General Sir John Maxwell, with headquarters in Cairo, administered martial law across the entire region, encompassing the Suez Canal and the Egyptian Delta.2 Meanwhile, the complex command structure included the Levant Base, responsible for administering forces destined for Gallipoli and Mesopotamia, with its headquarters located in Alexandria.2

The Dual Pressures on Infrastructure

Mid-1915 represented a period of immense strain on Egyptian infrastructure due to simultaneous military requirements. Firstly, the Suez Canal remained a major defensive priority. Although the Ottoman raid on the Canal had been repelled in January and February 1915, the threat necessitated maintaining heavy garrisons of British and Indian troops along its entire length, supported by continuous supply lines.3 Secondly, the ongoing, brutal Gallipoli campaign required constant reinforcement, casualty rotation, and supply shipment, all coordinated from Egypt by the Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF).1

The continuous rotation of troops and materials through Egyptian ports meant that the rail and road networks were inherently militarised. The critical logistical determination governing the movement of a newly arrived soldier from Port Said toward Cairo was logistical prioritisation. Because the Ottoman threat had only recently receded from the Canal front, military doctrine dictated that forward-area supply and reinforcement movements—carrying ammunition, food, and urgent personnel to the Canal Zone near Ismailia—always took precedence over troop trains moving personnel back toward the relative safety of the Cairo training camps.7 This operational necessity inevitably introduced friction and delays into the transfer schedule for new arrivals.

II. Phase 1: Arrival and Initial Processing at Port Said

Port Said, strategically situated at the northern entrance of the Suez Canal, served as one of the two primary Egyptian ports (the other being Alexandria) utilised by the British war machine. It was a vital gateway for disembarking personnel, horses, guns, and general supplies destined for the various Egyptian camps and for onward movement to the Dardanelles and other theatres 3

The Disembarkation Sequence: Ship-to-Shore Transfer

The scale of military transport far exceeded the existing peacetime commercial capacity of the port infrastructure. Evidence indicates that large troopships frequently dropped anchor offshore, often “about five miles from shore”.8 Direct disembarkation was typically not possible for large numbers of troops simultaneously, necessitating a logistical bottleneck: the transfer of men and matériel from the deep-draught transports to the quayside using smaller craft.

This transfer relied heavily on specialised vessels, primarily lighters, which are flat-bottomed barges essential for moving troops and stores between ship and shore.9 This included purpose-built craft, such as the specialised “X-lighters” designed initially for the Gallipoli campaign, which were later dispersed throughout the Mediterranean theatre, including Egypt.10 The reliance on lighters confirms a structural limitation in the port’s ability to handle the enormous volume of massed transports and heavy equipment arriving daily. Disembarking an entire troopship in this manner was a slow, multi-hour process that formed the soldier’s uncomfortable introduction to the theatre, adding significant time to the overall journey (estimated between 4 to 12 hours depending on port congestion and troop readiness).9

Marshalling and Initial Control

Upon reaching the quayside, troops were immediately subject to military authority and directed to temporary marshalling areas. An army camp, likely used by the Australian Light Horse, was known to be established on the edge of Port Said town, indicating an immediate holding facility near the railhead.11 The city itself, a thriving commercial hub adjacent to the Canal, was also a bustling environment, surrounded by local traders and “Side Shows” hoping to profit from the soldiers.12

The immediate experience for the soldier included stringent military oversight, particularly regarding health. By early 1915, the prevalence of venereal disease (VD) among Imperial troops was alarming commanders, leading to dedicated hospital wards and strict quarantine measures.13 Newly arrived soldiers received explicit lectures on hygiene and were warned that specific areas of the city were designated “out of bounds”.13 This imposition of social control reflected the immediate institutional concern about maintaining troop fitness amidst the moral and economic environment of Port Said, which, like other major Egyptian cities, featured restricted red-light districts.1

Once processed, the personnel, perhaps still on foot or utilising local short-haul vehicles, were marched or ferried the short distance to the Egyptian State Railways (ESR) terminus in Port Said, ready for the main leg of the journey toward Cairo.14

III. Phase 2: The Strained Corridor—Rail Transit to Cairo

The primary mode of transport from the Canal Zone cities to the interior of the Nile Delta was the Egyptian State Railways (ESR). The military relied heavily on this network, with British staff coordinating closely with ESR officials, whose dedication was noted by senior officers.15

The Critical Rail Route and Operational Constraints

The relevant rail route from Port Said did not run directly to Cairo, but followed a critical logistical corridor: it ran south along the west bank of the Suez Canal, passing through Qantara and linking up at Ismaïlia—a major military hub containing Moascar Camp and Sector II defence headquarters 3—before heading west across the desert plateau to Cairo.2 This line was indispensable for supporting the Suez Canal defences and relied on the adjacent Sweet Water Canal for vital steam engine water stops and supply points, underscoring its dual strategic importance.2

The logistical prioritisation in mid-1915 meant that the single railway line linking Cairo to the Canal Zone was perpetually strained. The movement of troops toward the training areas was secondary to the needs of the active front. Freight trains carrying military supplies, equipment, and ammunition for the Canal defence and forward deployment received priority right-of-way.7 This condition caused troop trains carrying personnel to be frequently delayed, shunted, or forced to wait for priority clearances, particularly around congested hubs like Ismaïlia, leading to significantly extended transit times compared to civilian schedules. The management and operation of this singular, vital infrastructure artery were thus central to the British colonial war administration, placing military needs, and not passenger comfort, first.

The total rail distance from Port Said to Cairo is approximately 191 kilometres.17 Given the operational friction, the frequent stops, and the subordination to supply logistics, the troop train journey would have been protracted, analytically estimated to take between 6 to 10 hours from the railhead to Cairo Central Station.

The Human Experience of Wartime Rail Transit

The physical environment of the mid-1915 transit was arguably the most immediate and severe challenge faced by the soldiers. Mid-summer temperatures in Egypt frequently exceeded $40^\circ\mathrm{C}$.18 Soldiers noted that the days were “invariable bright and warm under the influence of the sun that scorches the skins,” warning that discarding a hat for even a moment risked “being sent to hospital with a raging headache”.19

Troops traveled long distances in basic carriages, exposed to the unrelenting heat, dust, and dehydration.20 The physical punishment of the journey was severe, often causing troops to arrive in Cairo already exhausted, increasing their vulnerability to various camp diseases.21 The strategic assessment of travel conditions often recommended that military columns sleep during the day and travel at night to mitigate the heat, a practice that might have been applied to troop train scheduling depending on the urgency of movement.18

The journey also provided a stark visual of the militarised landscape, as the train traversed defence sectors along the Canal, guarded by Indian lancers and protected by armoured trains.4 This transit solidified the soldier’s understanding that they were operating in a highly protected, yet still threatened, combat zone adjacent to the front line.

Table 1 summarises the key logistical phases and the expected duration of the transfer under mid-1915 wartime conditions.

Table 1: Logistical Phases and Estimated Timeframe (Port Said to Mena Camp)

Phase of TransitLikely Transport MethodKey Activity/ChallengeApprox. Duration (Mid-1915)
Ship-to-ShoreLighters/TugsDisembarkation of troops/stores, initial processing at quay.4 to 12 hours 8
Port Said MarshallingFoot/Local TransportAdministrative checks, waiting for rail slot and clearance.2 to 6 hours 11
Port Said to Cairo CentralEgyptian State Railway (ESR) Troop Train (191km)Slower transit; delays due to Canal supply priority and heat.6 to 10 hours 2
Cairo Central to Mena CampExtended Tramway LineUrban transit and suburban extension to Giza camp.1 to 2 hours 22
Total Transfer TimeN/AExcluding major external logistical/scheduling delays13 to 30+ hours

IV. Phase 3: Cairo Central Station and the Final Mile to Training Camp

The arrival point for the heavy rail journey was Cairo Central Station.24 From here, the soldiers, typically arriving as large unit groups, had to undertake the final stage of the journey to the massive training facilities located on the outskirts of the city.

Primary Destination: Mena Camp

Mena Camp, situated approximately 10 miles (16 kilometers) west of the center of Cairo, near the Giza Pyramids and the Sphinx, was the principal staging and training camp utilized by the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) and other Imperial forces in 1915.13 The camp was chosen for its vast space, capable of accommodating unlimited troops for maneuvers, with the Pyramids providing a distinctly Egyptian backdrop.25 At its peak, Mena hosted around 25,000 soldiers.13

The Logistical Apex: The Tramway Solution

The movement of thousands of men and their light equipment from the Central Railway Station to Mena Camp utilised an ingenious adaptation of civilian infrastructure: the Cairo tramway system. In late 1914 and early 1915, following the rapid decision to reroute troops from England to Egypt due to overcrowded British camps 13, British staff in Egypt set contractors to work specifically extending the civilian tramlines directly to the prospective Mena depot.23

This extension was a demonstration of the improvisational militarisation of civilian infrastructure. The use of an electric tramway, rather than attempting to mobilise sufficient motor transport or relying solely on marching columns, provided a high-volume, cost-effective, and fixed-route system necessary to link the rail terminal directly to the remote desert camp.23 Historical accounts confirm that troops arriving at Cairo Station were transferred to Mena Camp “by tram”.22 This mass transit solution allowed the military command to maintain rapid deployment capacity from the heart of the city to the training grounds near Giza.

The final leg of the journey offered a sharp cultural contrast. The tram would have traveled through the dense, crowded, cosmopolitan districts of Cairo before suddenly giving way to the vast, dusty expanse of the desert surrounding the pyramids.

Secondary Destinations

While Mena was the primary training camp near Cairo in 1915, other large British military sites were also critical logistical nodes. For instance, the Heliopolis Camp, located in the eastern suburbs, was home to the Royal Flying Corps and included No. 1 Australian General Hospital, which requisitioned the large Heliopolis Palace Hotel.6 Heliopolis, too, was served by the city’s extensive electric tram system, confirming the tram network’s overarching role in troop distribution across the greater Cairo area.27

V. The Experience of Arrival: Climate, Discipline, and Social Friction

The soldier arriving at a Cairo camp in mid-1915 entered a volatile environment defined by extremes of climate and social tension.

Environmental Acclimatisation and Health Crisis

Mid-1915 represented the worst possible time for acclimatisation. The combination of intense heat, dry desert dust, and poor sanitation fostered an environment where disease flourished. Soldiers experienced physical exhaustion from the heat, and training was often strenuous—eight hours a day, six days a week, marching in heavy gear across the desert sands.6 Personal accounts from the period describe troops suffering from dysentery (“the squirts”) and heat-related illnesses, noting that the combination of heat and flies (present “in millions”) guaranteed “a good crop of disease”.29 Even at Mena, the 300-bed stationary hospital was quickly overwhelmed with venereal patients by early 1915.13 Water supply, though addressed by the rapid laying of pipes to the camps, remained a persistent logistical priority across the desert campaigns.21

Discipline and the Crisis of the “Wazzer”

For the newly arrived soldier, the cultural experience of Cairo was immediately juxtaposed with strict military control. Cairo was notorious among commanders for being a place where men were “subjected to more terrible temptations” than anywhere else, leading to efforts by organisations like the YMCA to establish recreation huts near major tram stops to distract soldiers from “immoral pursuits”.31

This conflict between troop escapism and military attempts at control peaked precisely during the mid-1915 period. The infamous “Battles of the Wazzer”—violent clashes between Australian troops and local residents/business owners in the Wagh el-Birka red-light district—occurred specifically in May and June 1915.1 This period of civil-military volatility required constant security. Military Police (picquets) patrolled the slums at night, arresting drunken men and those overstaying leave.12

The underlying tension was exacerbated by cultural mistrust. Imperial troops, particularly Australians, often viewed local Egyptians (“Gyppos”) as “devious and conniving,” reinforcing an authoritarian separation.13 The social friction was compounded by the institutional management of vice, including the army’s setting up of specific brothels under the Medical Corps’ oversight to try and control the VD epidemic.13

The convergence of the extreme physical hardship imposed by the mid-summer heat and the lack of traditional military discipline among certain Imperial troops created a volatile psychological environment that exploded into civil unrest. The climate acted as a pressure multiplier, thinning patience and heightening the need for escapism among troops already facing disease and exhaustion, which contributed directly to the violence witnessed in the city during May and June of 1915.

Table 2 outlines the simultaneous environmental and social challenges faced by troops completing the transit in mid-1915.

Table 2: Environmental and Social Impediments to Transit (Mid-1915)

Impediment CategorySpecific ChallengeOperational/Experiential Impact
ClimateExtreme Heat ($40^\circ\mathrm{C}$+) and DustPhysical exhaustion, heat stroke, reliance on night movement, rapid dehydration 2
HealthWidespread Disease (VD, Dysentery)Dedicated hospital capacity overflow; restricted leave areas; need for strict hygiene briefings 13
Social Friction“Battles of the Wazzer” (May/June 1915)Volatile urban environment; strict MP patrols necessary; high risk of confrontation 1
Logistical PrioritySupply Strain on ESRDelays in troop trains as rail prioritised movements of equipment and supplies to the Suez Canal defence zone 7

VI. Summary and Expert Conclusion

The transit of a soldier from a troopship arriving at Port Said to a British army camp near Cairo, such as Mena Camp, in mid-1915 was a multi-modal logistical operation spanning over 13 to 30 hours, shaped profoundly by wartime necessity and climate.

The initial phase involved the necessary inefficiency of ship-to-shore movement, relying on lighters due to the port’s structural constraints and congestion. The second phase, the rail journey, was defined by the strategic priority placed on securing the Suez Canal, ensuring that troop trains were inherently secondary to supply movements, resulting in a slow, punishing passage across the desert under extreme heat. Finally, the last mile showcased the ingenuity of the British logistical corps, which successfully militarised existing civilian infrastructure by rapidly extending the Cairo tramway system to provide high-volume personnel transport directly from the rail terminus to the vast training grounds outside the city.

The overall effectiveness of the British logistical system—its capacity to rapidly adapt to the unanticipated deployment to Egypt and incorporate the ESR and city tramways—was impressive. However, this efficiency came at a direct cost to the individual soldier. The harsh mid-summer climate, combined with basic accommodations, led to immediate and high rates of disease and exhaustion. Furthermore, the cultural dislocation and the institutional failure to effectively manage troop leisure time contributed directly to heightened social friction, culminating in significant clashes like the “Battles of the Wazzer.” The journey to camp, therefore, served not merely as a transfer, but as a jarring, high-stress initiation into the unique physical and social dynamics of the Egyptian theatre, preparing the soldier for the imminent, brutal reality of combat operations.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Crete

Crete is a large island with many stunning locations that are far from the main tourist crowds. To help you on your road less travelled, here are five “next best” places and activities offering unique and authentic Cretan experiences.


1. Loutro: The Car-Free Seaside Village

Loutro is one of Crete’s most idyllic hidden gems, tucked away on the southwest coast. It is famously accessible only by boat or on foot, ensuring its protected, tranquil, and car-free atmosphere.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: The inability to drive directly to the village makes it a natural barrier to mass tourism. It feels like a remote, car-free island escape.
  • Activity: Relax on the small pebble beach, swim in the turquoise waters of the Libyan Sea, or use it as a base to hike to nearby coastal attractions.

2. Sarakina Gorge: The Hidden Canyon

While Samaria Gorge is famous and crowded, the Sarakina Gorge (sometimes called Sarantapichos Gorge) offers a shorter, equally stunning, and much less-trafficked hiking adventure in southeastern Crete, near the village of Mithi.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: It’s often overlooked by tourists heading to the larger, better-known gorges, offering a raw, untouched hiking experience.
  • Activity: Hike through the narrow canyon. Be prepared for a challenging trek that involves crossing the riverbed and may require wading through water in some sections, depending on the season.

3. Xerokampos: The Unspoilt Beaches of the East

Located on the far eastern coast of Crete, Xerokampos is a small, quiet settlement known for its collection of unspoilt, undeveloped beaches. The drive there is winding and remote, contributing to its solitude.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: Its remote location requires a dedicated drive on mountain roads, meaning few constructions and a distinct lack of crowds, even during high season.
  • Activity: Enjoy pristine sand and crystal-clear waters on a truly secluded beach day. The landscape is unique, with mountains dropping down to the sea.

4. The Abandoned Village of Aradaina: An Atmospheric Ghost Town

Near the Sfakia region in western Crete, the village of Aradaina was deserted in 1948 following a tragic family vendetta. Today, it stands as an atmospheric ghost town overlooking the dramatic Aradena Gorge.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: It is a haunting historical site, not a resort or commercial centre, offering a quiet, slightly eerie, and historically rich stop.
  • Activity: Stroll through the narrow paths and empty stone houses to experience the region’s complex history. You can access it via a long metal bridge that spans the canyon.

5. Agrotouristic Village of Vamos: Authentic Cultural Immersion

The traditional village of Vamos, 25km southeast of Chania, is a pioneer in eco-tourism. A collective of locals has committed to preserving its authentic character and offering traditional experiences.

  • What makes it “Road Less Travelled”: This is a chance to move beyond sightseeing and participate in the local, daily life of the island.
  • Activity: Stay in a preserved old mansion, take part in local activities like making bread in a wood-fired oven, picking olives, or learning to prepare raki, the local pomace brandy.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Malta

That’s a fantastic way to explore Malta! While the island nation is small, it hides numerous incredible spots away from the main tourist crowds.

Here are five places and activities off the well-trodden path in Malta and Gozo:

1. The Three Cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua)

While not exactly “unknown,” the Three Cities are often overshadowed by Valletta and Mdina, making them a more authentic and less crowded alternative.

  • Vittoriosa (Birgu): As the oldest of the three, it was the first home of the Knights of St. John in Malta. Wander its narrow, ancient streets, and visit Fort St. Angelo for stunning views across the Grand Harbour back to Valletta.
  • Senglea (L-Isla): Walk through the charming backstreets and find your way to the Gardjola Gardens for one of the most iconic views of Valletta. The watchtower here has an eye and ear carved into its stone, symbolising vigilance.

2. Wied il-Għasri (Gozo)

For a secluded and unique swimming spot, head to the island of Gozo to find this hidden gem.

  • The Place: Wied il-Għasri is a spectacular sea gorge, or “fjord,” with crystal-clear turquoise waters. It cuts inland between dramatic cliffs, ending in a tiny pebbly beach.
  • The Activity: It’s perfect for a quiet swim, snorkelling, or simply enjoying the serenity away from the more crowded beaches. For the adventurous, you can rent a kayak to paddle through the gorge and out into the open sea.

3. Coral Lagoon (Malta)

The Coral Lagoon, also known as the Bilblija Cave, is a stunning natural sea cave located in the north of the main island, near Armier.

  • The Place: It’s an open-air cave with a large hole in the roof, allowing light to pour into the azure water below. The opening to the sea is small, making the lagoon feel like a massive, natural swimming pool.
  • The Activity: You can carefully climb down into the water for a unique swim. Many locals also use the surrounding cliff face as a jumping-off point. It requires a short hike to reach and is best visited on a calm day.

4. Il-Majjistral Nature and History Park (Malta)

If you’re looking for a dedicated nature escape, this park on the northwestern coast offers beautiful hiking trails, historical sites, and untouched coastlines.

  • The Place: The park stretches along the coast from Golden Bay up to Popeye Village. It’s Malta’s only natural park, protecting the area’s geology, archaeology, and ecology.
  • The Activity: Go for a walk or hike to explore the rural landscape, see the clay cliffs, and discover abandoned military and historical structures. It offers views that are completely different from the fortified cities and coastal resorts.

5. Ta’ Ċenċ Cliffs (Gozo)

While the Dingli Cliffs on the main island of Malta are famous for sunsets, the Ta’ Ċenċ Cliffs on Gozo offer a similar dramatic clifftop experience with far fewer people.

  • The Place: Located on the southern coast of Gozo, these cliffs are less accessible by major roads, ensuring a peaceful experience. The area is also a designated bird sanctuary.
  • The Activity: Take a sunset stroll along the top of the cliffs. The vast, uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean Sea are breathtaking, and it’s a perfect spot for nature photography or a picnic. You can also hike along the coastal path toward Xlendi or Mgarr Ix-Xini.

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 11

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

The order of ranks in the trenches, from the front line to the rear

Yes, the higher an officer’s rank in World War I, the further their typical position was from the front line. While there were exceptions, junior officers were expected to lead from the front in the trenches, while senior generals commanded from headquarters much further back, relying on maps and signals. 

Officer roles by rank and proximity to the front

Rank Role and Typical LocationProximity to Front Line
Second Lieutenant and LieutenantCommanded a platoon of 30–50 soldiers. They were in the thick of the fighting in the front-line trenches and during assaults (“going over the top”).Immediate front line: Constantly exposed to danger and often killed or wounded leading their men.
CaptainCommanded a company of 100–200 soldiers. Captains were also stationed in the front-line trenches to direct their companies, but often maintained a command post slightly further back for better communication.Front line: Directed operations from the front-line trench system, though with a command post in a slightly more sheltered position.
MajorServed as the second-in-command for a battalion or on a higher staff. In attacks, a Major might move forward once a position was established, but was typically not in the first wave.Supporting position: Generally located in battalion headquarters, behind the front-line trenches but still within range of artillery and enemy fire.
Lieutenant ColonelCommanded a battalion (500–1,000 soldiers). By 1915, British army regulations advised against a commanding officer advancing with the initial assault wave to avoid command chaos if they were killed.Behind the front line: Directed the battle from battalion headquarters, using runners and signals to maintain communication.
Brigadier GeneralCommanded a brigade (3,500–4,000 soldiers). A Brigadier General would have a command post several miles from the front to manage the larger formation and coordinate with other units.Back area: Located miles behind the front, but often visited the forward trenches to gather firsthand information.
Major GeneralCommanded a division (16,000 soldiers). They were further removed from the fighting, operating from command centers in châteaux or other large buildings behind the lines.Rear area: Directed operations from a command center in a rear area, though still vulnerable to long-range artillery.
Lieutenant General and higher (Army and Field Marshal)Directed corps, armies, and overall strategy. These high-ranking officers were based at General Headquarters (GHQ), which was located far behind the lines.Far rear: Exercised command from GHQ, relying on reports and communication technology to direct the war effort.

The “château generals” myth

The term “château generals” emerged as a myth that higher-ranking officers lived in comfort, detached from the reality of the front. While general officers were indeed stationed far behind the lines for command and control, many were killed or wounded, showing they were not completely removed from danger. Ultimately, a general’s function is to command and coordinate large numbers of troops, which was not feasible from a front-line trench.