Harry Walthenson, Private Detective – the second case – A case of finding the “Flying Dutchman”

What starts as a search for a missing husband soon develops into an unbelievable story of treachery, lies, and incredible riches.

It was meant to remain buried long enough for the dust to settle on what was once an unpalatable truth, when enough time had passed, and those who had been willing to wait could reap the rewards.

The problem was, no one knew where that treasure was hidden or the location of the logbook that held the secret.

At stake, billions of dollars’ worth of stolen Nazi loot brought to the United States in an anonymous tramp steamer and hidden in a specially constructed vault under a specifically owned plot of land on the once docklands of New York.

It may have remained hidden and unknown to only a few, if it had not been for a mere obscure detail being overheard …

… by our intrepid, newly minted private detective, Harry Walthenson …

… and it would have remained buried.

Now, through a series of unrelated events, or are they, that well-kept secret is out there, and Harry will not stop until the whole truth is uncovered.

Even if it almost costs him his life.  Again.

Writing a book in 365 days – 349

Day 349

The Gift of Creating Life with Words: Innate Talent, Learned Skill, or a Bit of Both?

“Words are, in my not-so-humble opinion, the most powerful tool we have ever created.” – J.K. Rowling

When a story sweeps us off our feet, a poem makes our hearts ache, or a speech moves a crowd to tears, we instinctively label the author a “gifted” or “talented” writer. It feels as if they possess a mysterious, almost magical ability to conjure whole worlds from thin air.

But is the art of breathing life into language something you’re born with, or can anyone learn to wield it with equal flair? In this post we’ll explore the science and the folklore behind writing excellence, dissect the myths of the “born writer,” and lay out practical pathways for anyone who wants to transform words into living, breathing experiences.


1. The Allure of the “Natural Talent” Narrative

1.1. Why We Romanticise the Gifted Writer

  • Heroic storytelling – Just as societies celebrate prodigies in music, sport, and mathematics, literature loves its “genius” figures (Shakespeare, Hemingway, Toni Morrison).
  • Cognitive bias – The availability heuristic makes us recall the few celebrated authors, overlooking the countless writers who arrived at greatness through deliberate practice.
  • Cultural mythos – The Romantic era glorified the solitary muse, cementing the idea that true art springs from a mystical well within.

1.2. What Research Really Says

Neuroscientists have mapped the brain activity of skilled writers, and the findings are enlightening:

Brain RegionRole in WritingWhat the Data Shows
Broca’s areaSyntax, grammarHighly active in both novice and expert writers, suggesting that basic language processing is universal.
Prefrontal cortexPlanning, organizationShows increased connectivity in seasoned writers, indicating that strategic thinking can be honed.
Default mode network (DMN)Imagination, mind‑wanderingStronger activation correlates with creative ideation, but DMN activity can be cultivated through practices like free‑writing.

The takeaway? There are no “magic” brain circuits that only a few possess. The same neural hardware is available to everyone; the difference lies in how it’s trained, wired, and used over time.


2. The Science of Skill Acquisition

2.1. Deliberate Practice—The Engine of Mastery

Psychologist K. Anders Ericsson introduced the concept of deliberate practice: intentional, feedback‑rich, and just beyond your current ability. In writing, this translates to:

  • Targeted exercises (e.g., “write a scene using only dialogue” or “describe a setting in 100 words”).
  • Immediate feedback from peers, mentors, or software tools.
  • Iterative revision—the willingness to rewrite, re‑structure, and re‑think.

2.2. The 10,000‑Hour Rule—A Misinterpretation

Gladwell popularised the idea that 10,000 hours leads to mastery. While practice matters, the quality of those hours matters far more. A novice who writes 10,000 bland sentences won’t rival a diligent writer who spends 2,000 hours on focused storytelling drills.

2.3. Neuroplasticity—Your Brain Can Rewire

Every time you craft a sentence, you’re forging new synaptic pathways. Studies in adult neuroplasticity demonstrate that consistent writing practice enlarges language‑related brain regions and improves narrative comprehension. In short: You can literally rewire yourself to be a better writer.


3. The Role of Reading: The Unsung Curriculum

“If you want to write, write, and if you want to read, read.” – C. S. Lewis

Reading is the foundational apprenticeship for any writer. Here’s why:

AspectHow Reading HelpsPractical Tip
VocabularyExposure to varied diction builds lexical richness.Keep a “word‑bank” notebook; add a new, striking word each week.
StructureMimic a paragraph in the style of your favourite author, then rewrite it in your voice.After each book, outline its structure in 5–7 bullet points.
VoiceUnderstanding expectations lets you subvert or honour them intelligently.Analysing plot arcs, pacing, and chapter organisation reveals the scaffolding behind stories.
Genre ConventionsUnderstanding expectations lets you subvert or honor them intelligently.Read at least three classic works in any genre you plan to write.

In other words—reading is the silent teacher that precedes formal instruction.


4. Teaching the Craft: What Formal Education (and Informal Mentorship) Offers

4.1. What Writing Courses Actually Teach

  1. Fundamentals of Storytelling – Hero’s journey, three‑act structure, conflict types.
  2. Tools of the Trade – Dialogue tags, sensory description, active vs. passive voice.
  3. Revision Strategies – Macro‑editing (plot, pacing) vs. micro‑editing (sentence flow, grammar).
  4. Critique Techniques – Giving and receiving constructive feedback without ego.

4.2. Mentorship vs. Classroom

  • Mentorship—Personalised, often informal. One‑on‑one feedback accelerates growth because it’s tailored to your specific blind spots.
  • Workshops—Group environments foster diverse perspectives, exposing you to styles you’d never encounter alone.

4.3. Digital Resources: The New‑Age Writing Academy

  • Online courses (MasterClass, Coursera, edX) – Structured curricula from bestselling authors.
  • Writing communities (r/WritingPrompts, Scribophile, Critique Circle) – Peer review loops.
  • AI‑assisted tools (Grammarly, ProWritingAid, ChatGPT) – Real‑time suggestions for grammar, style, and even plot brainstorming.

5. Practical Steps to Turn “Potential” into “Prose”

Below is a 12‑week sprint that anyone can follow, regardless of background. Think of it as a bootcamp for the “gift of creating life with words.”

WeekFocusAction ItemTime Commitment
1ObservationKeep a daily 5‑minute “sensory log” of what you see, hear, smell.5 min/day
2Micro‑StorytellingWrite 100‑word flash fiction using only one sense.15 min/day
3Dialogue DrillTranscribe a real conversation, then rewrite it to reveal subtext.30 min total
4Structural MappingOutline the plot of your favorite novel in three acts.1 hour
5Voice ExplorationImitate a paragraph from three different authors; then rewrite it in your own voice.45 min
6Feedback LoopShare a 1,000‑word piece with a peer group; receive and integrate feedback.2 hours
7Revision MasteryTake a piece you wrote in Week 2 and perform a macro‑edit (plot, pacing).1 hour
8Genre Deep DiveRead a classic in a new genre; write a 500‑word piece that follows its conventions.2 hours reading + 1 hour writing
9Narrative TensionWrite a scene where the stakes are revealed only through action, not exposition.1 hour
10Mentor SessionArrange a 30‑minute call with a more experienced writer (could be via a forum).30 min
11Polish & PublishEdit a short story for submission to a literary journal or online platform.2 hours
12ReflectionWrite a 500‑word essay on how your writing has changed over the program.30 min

Consistency beats intensity. Even 15 minutes a day, if focused, yields measurable improvement.


6. Common Myths Debunked

MythReality
“You’re either born a writer or you’re not.”Writing is a skill that can be systematically improved, much like learning a musical instrument.
“Good writers don’t need to edit.”Even the most celebrated authors (e.g., Stephen King) claim they spend 90 % of their time editing.
“Inspiration is magical and uncontrollable.”While moments of inspiration happen, they are often the byproduct of sustained preparation.
“Only formal education matters.”Self‑directed learning, reading, and community critique often produce equally adept writers.

7. The Bottom Line: Talent Meets Training

The truth lies somewhere in the middle:

  • Innate predispositions—such as a keen sense of observation, empathy, or an early love for language—can give a head start.
  • Deliberate practice—the daily grind of writing, reading, revising, and seeking feedback—turns that potential into proficiency.
  • Guided instruction—whether through a university course, an online tutorial, or a mentorship—provides the scaffolding that accelerates growth.

So, the “gift of creating life with words” isn’t a static, hereditary trait; it’s a dynamic, learnable craft that flourishes when curiosity meets discipline.


8. Takeaway Action: Your First Step Right Now

  1. Grab a notebook (or open a note‑app).
  2. Set a timer for five minutes and write whatever you see out the window, without judging.
  3. Repeat tomorrow, adding one new sensory detail.

In just a week, you’ll have a mini-catalogue of lived experience to draw upon—one of the most valuable reservoirs any writer can own.

Writing a book in 365 days – 347/348

Days 347 and 348

Use alternative words for Good, Afraid, Trouble, Look and Quiet…

The question was:  sum your life up in five words.

I’d heard about the show, one with a funny title that when people asked, they couldn’t quite get it exactly right, but close enough to “This was your life”.

I thought it was about dead people, odd, because I knew it was impossible to interview dead people, though those days, someone told me, anything was possible on television.

Then I thought it was about people almost at the end of their life, as a celebration of a celebrity, or someone famous.

It was a surprise to learn it was about ordinary people.

Like me.  You couldn’t find anyone more ordinary, or as several people told me, utterly forgettable.

That hurt, but in a sense, they were right.

Which made me wonder just how it was that I received a letter in the mail telling me I had been selected for an episode.

Of course, I thought someone was playing a hoax, and rang them, expecting to be laughed at, but no.  I was being asked to go on the show.

I have no idea why I agreed.

When I arrived at the studio, I was taken to an office where the executive producer told me what was going to happen: sign some papers to say I was not going to divulge details of the show before it was broadcast, and what my five words were.

They were different for each participant.

Today, they were recording five episodes.  I was going to be the last.

My words were Good, Afraid, Trouble, Look and Quiet.  I had plenty of time to think about them in relation to my story.

And that was the odd thing … I actually had a story.

“So,” the host said, in that mesmerising voice of hers that had both the audience and the objects entranced, “Tell us what the word Good means to you.”

Of course, it wasn’t just the word good, it was a better word that meant the same thing.

“It wasn’t just a good day, it was a fantastic, unbelievable day.”

I remembered it well, that last day of high school, when it was, in a lot of cases, the last time I would see my fellow classmates.

Most of them I never wanted to see again, because that final year had been marked by more lows than highs, culminating in my date for the Prom falling ill, and so I didn’t go.  Then I discovered she lied, went with my so-called best friend, and made those last weeks unbearable.

So much so, I headed straight for the railway station and intended to hide at my grandmother’s house on the other side of the country.

The day started badly, arguing with my parents, arguing with my siblings, getting into three separate scuffles at school, then coming home and throwing a few things into a backpack and leaving before I saw anyone at home.

Every step from the house to the railway depot was a reminder of each betrayal, so by the time I sat in the waiting room, an hour before the train was due, I was mentally and physically exhausted.

I expected someone from home would come and try to persuade me to stay.

They didn’t.

Perhaps that was the final betrayal.  The fact that not one of my own family cared whether I stayed or left.

Very few people took the train.  Most people leaving town went to the airport and got a plane.  There was a bus, but it took forever to get anywhere, and the train was an acceptable alternative.

I was the only one leaving town by train.

Until I wasn’t.

There were five students in that final year that I had to say shared my disposition, in that we preferred to study, get good grades and then go to college.  The other three left a week before, have all gained admission to an Ivy League university.

I hadn’t applied.

The other person was Alison Breton. 

She was one of those people who no one gave a second look at, or so much as a first.  She was clever, and all the boys didn’t like girls who were smarter than they.

She was also plain, or so it appeared, which caused most of the boys to point out her faults, such as how she presented herself.  Unlike the other girls who dressed to impress, wore make-up and looked stunning, even if it was an objectifying description, she preferred to be different.

I thought she was brave.

We barely spoke, though we were in the same study group with the three Ivy Leaguers.  Two of them were keen on her, but she was not the dating sort.  Or so they said.

Ten minutes before the train arrived, another person came and sat in the waiting room.

Alison Breton.

I ignored her for five whole minutes.  I mean, what could I say to her?

It was where the host mentioned the second word, afraid.

It was part of the truth, and summed up how I felt about her.  I was afraid of her.  Afraid, or, more to the point, literally terrified.

I had imagined in my mind many times what I would say to her, fabricating long and, I thought, interesting conversations.

And if I let my imagination stretch a little further, I might have to admit I liked her, perhaps more than I should, but could and would never admit it.  One humiliation by a girl in a lifetime was enough, and my completely shattered ego couldn’t take another rejection.

Five whole minutes before she said, “So you’re leaving this dump too?”

It was obvious I was, though the dump was harsh.

And then words came out that were not my own.  “What’s your excuse?”

I knew the moment I tried to speak to her, it would be over.  Maryanne, the betrayer, was different.  I could speak to her, and because of that, I thought she was the one.

She smiled.  “Probably the same as yours.  James told me he loved me, but he didn’t.  Apparently, I’m the subject of a bet.”

I’d heard a rumour and couldn’t believe it.  Or perhaps I could.  Small town, small-minded boys, one ambition, to have what they couldn’t.

“Best get out of town then.”  My solution to the problem wasn’t a one-size-fits-all all.

But it was a response to the host dropping the word trouble.  And then looked, and was quiet.  It seemed they were all intertwining in the narrative that was unfolding.

“That doesn’t explain your desire to leave, other than the Maryanne humiliation.  I guess a month away from here might make it go away.”

“It won’t.  I have brothers who will never let me forget.  You grow up in this place, no one forgets the trouble, or more appropriately, your legacy.”

“It’s always us quiet kids, eh, the ones who don’t make a fuss, who are studious and respectful, who don’t want to be noticed.  No matter how we look or feel.  I tried to be invisible.”

“It made you stand out more than the Maryannes.  I was just fodder for girls like her, pandering to the mores of the football team, and you know what they were like.”

Being smart didn’t make us immune from being hurt or hoping against hope we had a chance.

We both heard the sound of the horn in the distance, a warning that the train was approaching the railway crossing, about two or three miles outside of town.

The train, like always, was running late.

She stood.  “Where are you going?”

“San Francisco.  My grandmother.  She has a large house and many unusual friends.  She was an actress once, when Hollywood was going through its black and white phase.”

“I’m going there too.  My mother’s sister, though I suspect she isn’t.  Maybe we can pretend we’re brother and sister, to be safe.”

I shrugged.  Why not?  Once we got there, I’d probably never see her again.

“Except,” Alison said, holding my hand, and talking to the host with that whimsical expression she had when telling others the story of how we met, “we talked and talked and fell in love, got married, have five amazing children, twelve equally amazing grandchildren, and just lived our lives.  Nothing special, and yet to us, very, very special.”

And then, surprisingly, our time was up.  I had expected it would take half the time allotted.  Instead, it was two hours later, and no one, not any of us, had noticed.

©  Charles Heath  2025

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Sarajevo

The Un‑Seen Sarajevo: 5 Off‑The‑Beaten‑Path Experiences Worth the Detour

When you picture Sarajevo, you probably picture the iconic Baščaršija market, the Latin Bridge, or the panoramic tram ride up to the Sarajevo Bascarsija‑Tunnel Museum. Those sites are undeniably worth a visit, but the city’s real soul lives in the nooks and crannies that tourists rarely discover.
If you’re the type of traveller who prefers a side‑street over a main avenue, a hidden café over a crowded restaurant, or a quiet trail over a bustling viewpoint, keep reading. Below are five truly “road‑less‑travelled” activities that will give you a deeper, more intimate connection with Bosnia’s capital.


1️⃣ Wander the Secret Gardens of Vrelo Bosna – Beyond the Main Walkway

Why it feels off‑the‑map
Most visitors stroll the short, well‑signposted path that leads straight to the river’s mouth and snap a quick photo of the iconic meadow. Few venture farther up the valley where a network of stone‑lined footpaths winds through secluded glades, ancient oak groves, and a series of tiny, crystal‑clear pools that look like something out of a fairy‑tale.

What to do

  • Follow the “Old Trapper’s Trail.” Starting at the main parking lot, veer left after the first wooden bridge and look for a faded wooden sign reading “Staza lovca” (hunter’s trail).
  • Spot the “Stone‑Heart” (Kameni Srž). A natural limestone formation shaped like a heart, half‑submerged in a shallow pool—perfect for a quiet moment or a Instagram story that will genuinely surprise your followers.
  • Pack a light snack. The area is a perfect spot for a picnic under the shade of centuries‑old beech trees. Bring a small blanket, some local cheese (bjelica), and a bottle of Bosnian fruit‑wine.

Practical tips

  • Getting there: Take bus line 16 from the city centre to the “Vrelo Bosna” stop (≈15 min). The trailhead is a few minutes’ walk from the stop.
  • Best time: Early morning (7–9 am) in spring or early autumn. The lighting is soft, the crowds are non‑existent, and the air smells of wild mint.
  • What to bring: Sturdy walking shoes (the path includes a few rocky sections), a reusable water bottle, and a small rain jacket—weather can change quickly in the valleys.

2️⃣ Sip Coffee at Kovačevići’s “Mali Hram” – A Hidden Bosnian‑Austro‑Hungarian Café

Why it feels off‑the‑map
Tucked inside a modest residential block of the Kovačevići neighbourhood, “Mali Hram” (The Little Temple) is a tiny, family‑run coffee house that has been serving Bosnian coffee the same way since the 1900s. Its interior is a living museum: brass coffee pots, hand‑stitched tablecloths, and a faded photograph of a young Emperor Franz Julius I strolling through Sarajevo’s streets.

What to do

  • Order the “Bosanska Cevapi” espresso. It’s a double‑shot, dark roasted brew served with a slice of “hurmašice” (traditional sweet dumpling) on the side.
  • Chat with the owners. The elderly couple love sharing stories about how the café survived the siege, the Austro‑Hungarian era, and the city’s post‑war revival.
  • Listen to the old radio. A vintage 1930s German radio plays folk songs in the background, giving you a tangible sense of Sarajevo’s multicultural past.

Practical tips

  • Getting there: From the central train station, hop on tram line 1 toward “Ilidža” and get off at “Kovačevići” (≈12 min). Walk two blocks east; the café is marked only by a tiny hand‑painted sign.
  • Best time: Mid‑afternoon, when locals gather for “kafa i razgovor.” Expect a relaxed, unhurried pace.
  • What to bring: Cash (most small cafés don’t accept cards) and a notebook—many visitors leave a short message on the community board.

3️⃣ Trek to Hajdučke Kule – The Forgotten Ottoman Watchtowers

Why it feels off‑the‑map
While most tourists flock to the historic Clock Tower, few know that a row of three smaller stone towers – the “Hajdučke Kule” (Bandit Towers) – sit on the steep hillside overlooking the old town. Built in the 16th century to spot incoming raiders, they now offer an unobstructed panorama of Sarajevo’s red‑tile roofs, the Miljacka River snaking below, and the distant peaks of the Dinaric Alps.

What to do

  • Climb the middle tower. A narrow spiral staircase (≈30 steps) leads to a small viewing platform with a rusted iron railing. Bring a compact camera; the view is unfiltered – no tourist crowds, just the city’s raw silhouette.
  • Explore the “Stone Labyrinth.” At the base of the towers lies a network of ancient stone walls that locals used for rope‑making. Walk the labyrinth and feel the cool stone under your feet.
  • Capture sunset light. The western orientation floods the towers with golden light just before sunset, creating dramatic shadows ideal for photography.

Practical tips

  • Getting there: Take bus line 21 to “Koševo” and follow the signs to “Hajdučke Kule.” The trailhead is a short, steep stairwell leading up the hill.
  • Best time: Late afternoon in late spring or early summer, when the hillside is lush but the path isn’t slick.
  • What to bring: A flashlight (the interior of the towers is dim), a small first‑aid kit (the stairs are uneven), and a lightweight rain poncho.

4️⃣ Discover the Underground Art Gallery of the Sarajevo Tunnel – A Post‑War Secret

Why it feels off‑the‑map
The Sarajevo Tunnel Museum is a well‑known symbol of resilience, but beneath its concrete entrance lies a concealed, community‑run art space called “Podzemni Studio.” Created in 1997 by a group of former tunnel workers, it showcases raw, politically charged artworks made from salvaged war materials—metal, bullet casings, and glass shards.

What to do

  • Take the “Hidden Passage” tour. A volunteer guide leads a small group (max 8 people) down a dimly lit corridor to the studio. You’ll hear personal anecdotes about how the space helped heal trauma after the siege.
  • Interact with the installations. Some pieces are tactile; you can run your fingers over a sculpture made of welded railway tracks, symbolising the city’s connection between past and future.
  • Purchase a “Tunnel‑Made” souvenir. Small items—keychains, magnets, or hand‑crafted ceramic mugs—are sold to support the artists.

Practical tips

  • Getting there: Walk from the main tunnel museum (just a 5‑minute stroll). Look for the narrow door on the left side of the parking lot marked “Studio.”
  • Best time: Weekdays, early in the morning (9–11 am). The studio limits visitors to preserve the intimate atmosphere.
  • What to bring: A modest donation (the gallery is non‑profit), a respectful demeanour (some works deal with heavy themes), and curiosity.

5️⃣ Attend a Traditional “Sevdalinka” Evening in the Village of Bojan

Why it feels off‑the‑map
Sevdalinka, the soulful Bosnian folk song, is often performed in touristy restaurants in the Old Town. In Bojan—a small farming village 12 km south of Sarajevo—elder musicians gather every Saturday night in the courtyard of a centuries‑old stone house, singing unaccompanied a cappella renditions passed down through generations.

What to do

  • Join the circle. Bring a small portable seat or blanket, and sit on the low stone steps while locals welcome you with a warm “Dobrodošli.”
  • Learn a line. The host will hand you a lyric sheet and teach you the chorus—an unforgettable way to become part of the tradition.
  • Taste homemade “pita.” Freshly baked burek and honey‑drizzled pita (pie) are served on rustic wooden plates.

Practical tips

  • Getting there: Rent a car or take a local “taxi‑bush” (mini‑bus) from the “Ilidža” bus station to Bojan. The trip takes about 30 minutes on winding country roads.
  • Best time: Late summer (July–August) when the evenings are warm and the village’s olive trees are in full bloom.
  • What to bring: A respectful attitude, a small contribution (a bottle of local rakija or a few euros) for the host, and a camera with a discreet flash setting—photos are welcomed, but flash isn’t.

How to Fit All Five Into a 3‑Day Itinerary

DayMorningAfternoonEvening
1Vrelo Bosna hidden trails – hike & picnicHajdučke Kule – climb towers & sunsetMali Hram café – coffee & conversation
2Underground art gallery – Tunnel Studio tourBojan Sevdalinka evening – travel to villageReturn to Sarajevo for a nightcap in the Old Town
3Free day – revisit favorite spot or explore other museumsOptional: River rafting on the Miljacka or a museum of contemporary Bosnian artWrap‑up dinner at a local konoba (tavern) featuring live folk music

Feel free to shuffle the order—each activity stands on its own, but the rhythm above balances active exploration with relaxed cultural immersion.


Final Thoughts: Why the “Road‑Less‑Travelled” Matters

Travel isn’t just a checklist of monuments; it’s a conversation with the people, the landscapes, and the hidden histories that shape a place. In Sarajevo, the well‑trodden path tells you what the city is, while the side streets, secret gardens, and tucked‑away cafés whisper how Sarajevo has survived, adapted, and continued to sing its unique song.

So next time you book a trip to Bosnia’s capital, consider swapping one of those popular sights for a hidden trail, a modest coffee shop, or an underground gallery. You’ll return home with stories that are truly yours, and you’ll leave a lighter footprint—one that respects the intimacy of the places you discover.

Ready to venture off the map? Pack your walking shoes, bring an open heart, and let Sarajevo’s quieter corners reveal themselves. Happy exploring! 🌿🕌✨

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Podgorica

Discovering Podgorica’s Hidden Gems: A Road Less Travelled

Nestled on the banks of the Morača River, Podgorica is often overshadowed by its mountainous neighbours and coastal rivals in the Balkans. But for those willing to venture beyond its bustling city centre, this Montenegrin capital holds a trove of quiet enchantments. If you’re craving a deeper, more offbeat experience, here are five extraordinary ways to unlock Podgorica’s soul.


1. Step Back in Time in Donja Lastva

Tucked just a short walk from the city centre, the historic neighbourhood of Donja Lastva is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets, 19th-century stone houses, and vibrant murals. Once a medieval merchant district, its peaceful atmosphere offers a stark contrast to Podgorica’s modern core. Stroll through hidden courtyards, admire the architecture, and sip a coffee at a local kafana (traditional café) to savour life at a slower pace. Don’t miss the Old Jewish Quarter, a poignant reminder of the community that once thrived here.


2. Unwind on Vrmac Hill

For panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountains, head to Vrmac Hill. A short, family-friendly hike leads to a vantage point dominated by the Ethnographic Museum of Montenegro and a historic fort. The well-maintained trails are perfect for a morning walk or sunset picnic. In spring, the hillside bursts into colour with wildflowers, while autumn offers fiery foliage. It’s a favourite among locals, but rarely crowded with tourists.


3. Get Cultured at the Ethnographic Museum

Perched on Vrmac Hill, this quirky museum is a window into Montenegro’s rural heritage. Wander through recreated village houses filled with traditional costumes, farming tools, and folk art. The museum also hosts rotating contemporary art exhibitions, making it a fascinating blend of old and new. Pro tip: Visit on a weekday to have it mostly to yourself!


4. Shop and Savour at the Podgorica Municipal Market

For a taste of local life, head to the Podgorica Municipal Market (Pazar). Open six days a week, this bustling bazaar is a riot of colour and aroma. Sample krompiruša (Montenegrin potato soup), fresh ražnjići cheese, and fragrant herbs. Haggle for handmade crafts or pick up a jar of truffle honey from the region’s famed forests. It’s a feast for the senses—and your wallet!


5. Visit the Đurđe Krstić House – A Literary Pilgrimage

Poet and writer Đurđe Krstić (1879–1934) is Montenegro’s Shakespearean figure, and his 19th-century stone house in Podgorica is a modest tribute to his legacy. Now a museum, it’s housed in a simple, ivy-clad building where he once lived. Inside, you’ll find his personal library, manuscripts, and memorabilia. Though it’s a niche spot, it offers a poetic insight into Montenegro’s cultural heart.


Tips for Exploring Off the Beaten Path

  • Best Time to Go: Visit during the shoulder seasons (May–June or September–October) for milder weather and fewer crowds.
  • Transport: Most of these spots are walkable within the city centre, but consider renting a bike for a leisurely pace.
  • Taste the Local Flavour: Pair your explorations with a stop at Café Jelena or Risto – Montenegrin Cuisine for authentic, home-style meals.

Podgorica’s charm lies in its contrasts: history meeting modernity, tranquillity nestled next to the city’s pulse. By straying from the well-worn paths, you’ll uncover a city that’s unafraid to show its soul—and it’s waiting for you to discover it. So, pack your curiosity and let Podgorica surprise you, one hidden gem at a time.

Happy exploring! 🌿✨

Writing a book in 365 days – 347/348

Days 347 and 348

Use alternative words for Good, Afraid, Trouble, Look and Quiet…

The question was:  sum your life up in five words.

I’d heard about the show, one with a funny title that when people asked, they couldn’t quite get it exactly right, but close enough to “This was your life”.

I thought it was about dead people, odd, because I knew it was impossible to interview dead people, though those days, someone told me, anything was possible on television.

Then I thought it was about people almost at the end of their life, as a celebration of a celebrity, or someone famous.

It was a surprise to learn it was about ordinary people.

Like me.  You couldn’t find anyone more ordinary, or as several people told me, utterly forgettable.

That hurt, but in a sense, they were right.

Which made me wonder just how it was that I received a letter in the mail telling me I had been selected for an episode.

Of course, I thought someone was playing a hoax, and rang them, expecting to be laughed at, but no.  I was being asked to go on the show.

I have no idea why I agreed.

When I arrived at the studio, I was taken to an office where the executive producer told me what was going to happen: sign some papers to say I was not going to divulge details of the show before it was broadcast, and what my five words were.

They were different for each participant.

Today, they were recording five episodes.  I was going to be the last.

My words were Good, Afraid, Trouble, Look and Quiet.  I had plenty of time to think about them in relation to my story.

And that was the odd thing … I actually had a story.

“So,” the host said, in that mesmerising voice of hers that had both the audience and the objects entranced, “Tell us what the word Good means to you.”

Of course, it wasn’t just the word good, it was a better word that meant the same thing.

“It wasn’t just a good day, it was a fantastic, unbelievable day.”

I remembered it well, that last day of high school, when it was, in a lot of cases, the last time I would see my fellow classmates.

Most of them I never wanted to see again, because that final year had been marked by more lows than highs, culminating in my date for the Prom falling ill, and so I didn’t go.  Then I discovered she lied, went with my so-called best friend, and made those last weeks unbearable.

So much so, I headed straight for the railway station and intended to hide at my grandmother’s house on the other side of the country.

The day started badly, arguing with my parents, arguing with my siblings, getting into three separate scuffles at school, then coming home and throwing a few things into a backpack and leaving before I saw anyone at home.

Every step from the house to the railway depot was a reminder of each betrayal, so by the time I sat in the waiting room, an hour before the train was due, I was mentally and physically exhausted.

I expected someone from home would come and try to persuade me to stay.

They didn’t.

Perhaps that was the final betrayal.  The fact that not one of my own family cared whether I stayed or left.

Very few people took the train.  Most people leaving town went to the airport and got a plane.  There was a bus, but it took forever to get anywhere, and the train was an acceptable alternative.

I was the only one leaving town by train.

Until I wasn’t.

There were five students in that final year that I had to say shared my disposition, in that we preferred to study, get good grades and then go to college.  The other three left a week before, have all gained admission to an Ivy League university.

I hadn’t applied.

The other person was Alison Breton. 

She was one of those people who no one gave a second look at, or so much as a first.  She was clever, and all the boys didn’t like girls who were smarter than they.

She was also plain, or so it appeared, which caused most of the boys to point out her faults, such as how she presented herself.  Unlike the other girls who dressed to impress, wore make-up and looked stunning, even if it was an objectifying description, she preferred to be different.

I thought she was brave.

We barely spoke, though we were in the same study group with the three Ivy Leaguers.  Two of them were keen on her, but she was not the dating sort.  Or so they said.

Ten minutes before the train arrived, another person came and sat in the waiting room.

Alison Breton.

I ignored her for five whole minutes.  I mean, what could I say to her?

It was where the host mentioned the second word, afraid.

It was part of the truth, and summed up how I felt about her.  I was afraid of her.  Afraid, or, more to the point, literally terrified.

I had imagined in my mind many times what I would say to her, fabricating long and, I thought, interesting conversations.

And if I let my imagination stretch a little further, I might have to admit I liked her, perhaps more than I should, but could and would never admit it.  One humiliation by a girl in a lifetime was enough, and my completely shattered ego couldn’t take another rejection.

Five whole minutes before she said, “So you’re leaving this dump too?”

It was obvious I was, though the dump was harsh.

And then words came out that were not my own.  “What’s your excuse?”

I knew the moment I tried to speak to her, it would be over.  Maryanne, the betrayer, was different.  I could speak to her, and because of that, I thought she was the one.

She smiled.  “Probably the same as yours.  James told me he loved me, but he didn’t.  Apparently, I’m the subject of a bet.”

I’d heard a rumour and couldn’t believe it.  Or perhaps I could.  Small town, small-minded boys, one ambition, to have what they couldn’t.

“Best get out of town then.”  My solution to the problem wasn’t a one-size-fits-all all.

But it was a response to the host dropping the word trouble.  And then looked, and was quiet.  It seemed they were all intertwining in the narrative that was unfolding.

“That doesn’t explain your desire to leave, other than the Maryanne humiliation.  I guess a month away from here might make it go away.”

“It won’t.  I have brothers who will never let me forget.  You grow up in this place, no one forgets the trouble, or more appropriately, your legacy.”

“It’s always us quiet kids, eh, the ones who don’t make a fuss, who are studious and respectful, who don’t want to be noticed.  No matter how we look or feel.  I tried to be invisible.”

“It made you stand out more than the Maryannes.  I was just fodder for girls like her, pandering to the mores of the football team, and you know what they were like.”

Being smart didn’t make us immune from being hurt or hoping against hope we had a chance.

We both heard the sound of the horn in the distance, a warning that the train was approaching the railway crossing, about two or three miles outside of town.

The train, like always, was running late.

She stood.  “Where are you going?”

“San Francisco.  My grandmother.  She has a large house and many unusual friends.  She was an actress once, when Hollywood was going through its black and white phase.”

“I’m going there too.  My mother’s sister, though I suspect she isn’t.  Maybe we can pretend we’re brother and sister, to be safe.”

I shrugged.  Why not?  Once we got there, I’d probably never see her again.

“Except,” Alison said, holding my hand, and talking to the host with that whimsical expression she had when telling others the story of how we met, “we talked and talked and fell in love, got married, have five amazing children, twelve equally amazing grandchildren, and just lived our lives.  Nothing special, and yet to us, very, very special.”

And then, surprisingly, our time was up.  I had expected it would take half the time allotted.  Instead, it was two hours later, and no one, not any of us, had noticed.

©  Charles Heath  2025

Writing a book in 365 days – My Story

The beginning, which seemed so long ago…

So, I have to decide on the genre. Well, that’s easy, espionage. I look up at my shelves and I can see at least six authors’ novels staring me in the face, and between them over a hundred stories.

I should get started reading, to see what it is that makes them eminently readable.

Oh, been there and done that. in fact, of a library of around three thousand books of various genres, I have read over three-quarters of them.

That includes the classics, like Dickens, Hemingway, Tolstoy and my hero Alistair Maclean.

So, where do I start…

An unassuming main protagonist, the quintessential spy who looks like anything but what he is. He’s a loner, doesn’t trust anyone, and works alone, though perhaps it’s time to throw him a partner and tell him the world is changing and not for the better.

He needs a handler who is old, crusty, never wrong, dresses impeccably, doesn’t have a life, works in a dusty dungeon, and is very, very ruthless.

Will it be a choice of saving the day or saving the girl?

Is he invincible or vulnerable?

Does he have a whiny mother, demanding girlfriend, odd friends, and even odder work colleagues?

Does he talk the talk, talk in riddles, or multi-syllable words that no one can make sense of?

And what is his real job?

What are my ideas for this story? I generally write spy stories or thrillers, so I’m thinking that I need to put together the typical James Bond start, where you are hanging on for dear life and not knowing where it’s going to end up.

I have one: waking up in a hotel room in the Middle East, a fan above our spy turning slowly, churning the already hot air in the room. It’s the sound of the blades turning so slowly, with a creak or groan somewhere in the revolution, that wakes him, soaked in sweat and with a horrible taste in his mouth.

The attempt to drain the bar below of cold bottled beer didn’t go so well. There’s a headache to go with that, and it was all he could manage to get to the small refrigerator where he’d put a half dozen bottles of Perrier water the afternoon before.

The first went down his throat very quickly. The second helped the two painkillers go down though for a moment it felt like they’d stuck in his throat. A monetary shudder as the pills started to dissolve.

A knock on the door has him instantly alert and hand on the gun under the pillow.

“Who is it?” He yells out, not exactly the done thing in a hotel, but the last seven days of endless heat had finally taken a toll.

And today was going to be no different. The gun slipped in his wet hand, a sign that he was not sure if he would make the shot without missing by a yard or two.

“Room service.”

“I didn’t order room service.”

Silence, and then an envelope was shoved under the door.

Ever woken up in another part of the world in a strange bed, in a hotel or guest house, and wondered where you are?  It seems that would happen a lot if you were a road warrior.

I’m not but I still have those moments even at home in my own bed.

Is it the dreams we have that disorient us?  Like mine because they take me to different places, and different situations, and above all, it takes me out of my mundane and boring existence.

It’s time to immerse myself in a more vicarious existence.

The world of a spy.

I think an action start might work better than just introducing the main character.

The last time we visited him in a hotel room, very hot, very hungover, and not very ready to work.

Why is he there?

Most espionage works during meetings with sources, informants, and important people who defect with a bag full of state secrets.

For wads of money, of course.

Where is he, right now?  Perhaps it could be said he was not in a good place.  A very tough few years, in the firing line, and the loss of colleagues begins to make him question everything and everyone.

There is going to be a last straw, you know, that one that breaks the camel’s back.

I’m working on his background story, a legend if you like, so I’m more acquainted with the character.  I want to be able to slip into his character and be him.  It makes it easier to write when you know everything about him or her.

And, yes, there will be a her.

And yes, jaded, world-weary or not, he’s not quite done with the bad guys yet.

It’s just he wishes the moments of self-doubt would get less rather than more.

How did it end up?

You’ll have to read the book

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Podgorica

Discovering Podgorica’s Hidden Gems: A Road Less Travelled

Nestled on the banks of the Morača River, Podgorica is often overshadowed by its mountainous neighbours and coastal rivals in the Balkans. But for those willing to venture beyond its bustling city centre, this Montenegrin capital holds a trove of quiet enchantments. If you’re craving a deeper, more offbeat experience, here are five extraordinary ways to unlock Podgorica’s soul.


1. Step Back in Time in Donja Lastva

Tucked just a short walk from the city centre, the historic neighbourhood of Donja Lastva is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets, 19th-century stone houses, and vibrant murals. Once a medieval merchant district, its peaceful atmosphere offers a stark contrast to Podgorica’s modern core. Stroll through hidden courtyards, admire the architecture, and sip a coffee at a local kafana (traditional café) to savour life at a slower pace. Don’t miss the Old Jewish Quarter, a poignant reminder of the community that once thrived here.


2. Unwind on Vrmac Hill

For panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountains, head to Vrmac Hill. A short, family-friendly hike leads to a vantage point dominated by the Ethnographic Museum of Montenegro and a historic fort. The well-maintained trails are perfect for a morning walk or sunset picnic. In spring, the hillside bursts into colour with wildflowers, while autumn offers fiery foliage. It’s a favourite among locals, but rarely crowded with tourists.


3. Get Cultured at the Ethnographic Museum

Perched on Vrmac Hill, this quirky museum is a window into Montenegro’s rural heritage. Wander through recreated village houses filled with traditional costumes, farming tools, and folk art. The museum also hosts rotating contemporary art exhibitions, making it a fascinating blend of old and new. Pro tip: Visit on a weekday to have it mostly to yourself!


4. Shop and Savour at the Podgorica Municipal Market

For a taste of local life, head to the Podgorica Municipal Market (Pazar). Open six days a week, this bustling bazaar is a riot of colour and aroma. Sample krompiruša (Montenegrin potato soup), fresh ražnjići cheese, and fragrant herbs. Haggle for handmade crafts or pick up a jar of truffle honey from the region’s famed forests. It’s a feast for the senses—and your wallet!


5. Visit the Đurđe Krstić House – A Literary Pilgrimage

Poet and writer Đurđe Krstić (1879–1934) is Montenegro’s Shakespearean figure, and his 19th-century stone house in Podgorica is a modest tribute to his legacy. Now a museum, it’s housed in a simple, ivy-clad building where he once lived. Inside, you’ll find his personal library, manuscripts, and memorabilia. Though it’s a niche spot, it offers a poetic insight into Montenegro’s cultural heart.


Tips for Exploring Off the Beaten Path

  • Best Time to Go: Visit during the shoulder seasons (May–June or September–October) for milder weather and fewer crowds.
  • Transport: Most of these spots are walkable within the city centre, but consider renting a bike for a leisurely pace.
  • Taste the Local Flavour: Pair your explorations with a stop at Café Jelena or Risto – Montenegrin Cuisine for authentic, home-style meals.

Podgorica’s charm lies in its contrasts: history meeting modernity, tranquillity nestled next to the city’s pulse. By straying from the well-worn paths, you’ll uncover a city that’s unafraid to show its soul—and it’s waiting for you to discover it. So, pack your curiosity and let Podgorica surprise you, one hidden gem at a time.

Happy exploring! 🌿✨

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Pristina

Beyond the Beaten Path: 5 Unique Things to Do in Pristina Off the Road Less Travelled

When most travellers think of Pristina, Kosovo’s capital often appears as a quick stopover—somewhere you pass through en route to mountains, monasteries, or ancient towns. But those who linger discover a city pulsing with youthful energy, raw history, and hidden cultural gems just beneath the surface. While the Newborn Monument and the National Library are well-worth a visit, true authenticity lies beyond the guidebook checklists.

For the curious explorer who craves unique experiences, local life, and a deeper connection with the city’s soul, here are five unforgettable things to do in Pristina—off the beaten path and away from the tourist trail.


1. Explore Graffiti Lane: Pristina’s Open-Air Street Art Gallery

Tucked behind the National Gallery of Kosovo on Rruga Gani Koci, you’ll find a narrow, unassuming alley that bursts with colour, rebellion, and storytelling. Locally known as Graffiti Lane, this urban canvas is Kosovo’s most vibrant street art hub, where local and international artists use spray paint to express political commentary, cultural pride, and personal dreams.

Unlike curated galleries, this space evolves constantly. One week you might see a tribute to Ibrahim Rugova, Kosovo’s former president; the next, a surreal portrait of a woman wearing traditional pletë (embroidered headdress) morphing into a galaxy.

Pro Tip: Visit in the late afternoon when local artists often hang around to touch up their work—strike up a conversation. You might walk away with a new friend and a deeper understanding of Kosovo’s post-war identity.


2. Sip Traditional Rakia at a Hidden Family-Owned Konoba

Forget fancy rooftop bars (though Pristina has those too). For a taste of real Kosovar hospitality, head to Konoba Kalaja—a cozy, stone-walled tavern tucked into the hillside of the Old Town district, near the remains of Pristina Castle.

This isn’t a tourist trap; it’s a family-run eatery where time slows down. Wooden beams, clay pots, and flickering candles set the mood as you’re served homemade rakia (a strong fruit brandy) and slow-cooked dishes like tava kosi (baked lamb with yogurt) or grilled qebapa (seasoned minced meat sausages).

Locals bring their grandfathers here. The owner, Gjergj, might pull out a two-string lahuta and sing a folk tune if you’re lucky. There’s no menu in English—just point, smile, and trust the kitchen. This is how Kosovo feeds its soul.


3. Join a Local Philosopher on a “Coffee & Conversation” Walk

In a city where university students outnumber skyscrapers, intellectual conversation is part of the culture. Through local community initiatives like Qendra Multimedia, you can sign up for a unique experience: a guided “philosophy walk” led by university students or professors.

Over slow-sipping espressos at tucked-away cafés like Cafe Du Coin or Pompik, you’ll discuss everything from Kosovo’s nation-building challenges to existentialism, all while strolling through quiet neighbourhoods like Velania or Lagjja Çnarama.

It’s not a tour—it’s a dialogue. And it might just be the most human connection you make on your entire trip.


4. Discover Forgotten Trains at the Abandoned Railway Station

On the outskirts of Pristina, hidden behind wild grass and graffiti-tagged fences, lies a relic of a bygone era: the city’s disused railway station. Once part of a regional Balkan rail network, the station has been inactive for decades, but its decaying platforms, rusted tracks, and crumbling waiting rooms tell a poignant story of missed connections and unrealised potential.

Urban explorers and photographers love this spot. Wander among silent freight cars overtaken by vines, peer into abandoned ticket booths where dust coats vintage typewriters, and imagine Pristina as a crossroads of Yugoslav-era travel.

Note: This is not an official tourist site—visit respectfully and safely. Early morning or late afternoon light makes for the most hauntingly beautiful photos.


5. Attend an Underground Live Music Night at Pulp

Tucked inside a repurposed printing house in central Pristina, Pulp is more than a bar—it’s a cultural heartbeat. By day, it’s a café with indie books and artisan coffee. By night, it transforms into Kosovo’s most authentic live music venue, hosting a diverse range of acts, from jazz trios and experimental electronic sets to punk bands and spoken word poetry.

The crowd is young, local, and politically aware. Performances are intimate—sometimes just a mic and a guitar in a room that holds fifty people max. There’s no cover charge, but donations keep the lights on.

Check their Facebook page before you go; nights are irregular, but if you catch one, you’re witnessing Kosovo’s creative resistance in real time.


Final Thoughts: Pristina Reveals Itself Slowly

Pristina doesn’t dazzle at first glance. Its charm is in the cracks—in the laughter over a shared bottle of rakia, the poetry scrawled on an alley wall, the silent echo of a train track that once led everywhere.

The top five attractions on any standard list will show you the city’s face. But these five offbeat experiences? They’ll let you feel its pulse.

So next time you’re in Pristina, skip the crowded cafés on Mother Teresa Boulevard. Turn down a narrow street, say “yes” to an invitation you don’t fully understand, and let the real Kosovo welcome you in.


Traveler’s Checklist:

  • Wear comfortable shoes for Graffiti Lane and the old station.
  • Bring small bills for konobas and donations at Pulp.
  • Learn a few Albanian phrases—“Faleminderit” (thank you) goes a long way.
  • Respect local customs—especially in family-run spaces.

Pristina isn’t just a destination. It’s a conversation. Come ready to listen.

First Dig Two Graves

A sequel to “The Devil You Don’t”

Revenge is a dish best served cold – or preferably so when everything goes right

Of course, it rarely does, as Alistair, Zoe’s handler, discovers to his peril. Enter a wildcard, John, and whatever Alistair’s plan for dealing with Zoe was dies with him.

It leaves Zoe in completely unfamiliar territory.

John’s idyllic romance with a woman who is utterly out of his comfort zone is on borrowed time. She is still trying to reconcile her ambivalence, after being so indifferent for so long.

They agree to take a break, during which she disappears. John, thinking she has left without saying goodbye, refuses to accept the inevitable, calls on an old friend for help in finding her.

After the mayhem and being briefly reunited, she recognises an inevitable truth: there is a price to pay for taking out Alistair; she must leave and find them first, and he would be wise to keep a low profile.

But keeping a low profile just isn’t possible, and enlisting another friend, a private detective and his sister, a deft computer hacker, they track her to the border between Austria and Hungary.

What John doesn’t realise is that another enemy is tracking him to find her too. It could have been a grand tour of Europe. Instead, it becomes a race against time before enemies old and new converge for what will be an inevitable showdown.