Tag: blogging

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Lisbon

Lisbon Beyond the Postcard: 5 Things to Do When You’ve Already Mastered the Classics

You’ve done the pilgrimage. You’ve braved the crowds on Tram 28, queued for pastéis de nata in Belém, and navigated the steep, melancholic streets of Alfama. You’ve seen the sunset from a crowded miradouro, and you’ve felt the history radiating from the Jerónimos Monastery.

Congratulations. You’ve seen Lisbon.

But the true magic of the Portuguese capital doesn’t lie on the postcard; it thrives in the quiet corners, the industrial chic neighborhoods, and the views reserved only for those willing to wander a little further.

If you’re ready to move past the tourist checklist and dive into the real Lisboa, here are the next top five, road-less-travelled experiences waiting for you.

1. Get Lost in the Green Lungs: Parque Florestal de Monsanto

What it is: Lisbon’s massive, sprawling answer to Central Park, covering over 10 square kilometers of forest, trails, and panoramic views.

The moment tourists step off the plane, they head east toward the castle or south toward the river. They forget that the city is hugged by a surprisingly wild, untamed forest park to the west. Monsanto is where locals go to truly escape the urban bustle.

Forget the crowded views from São Jorge; Monsanto offers dozens of quiet, breathtaking overlooks. The ultimate gem here is the abandoned Panorâmico de Monsanto. Once a glamorous restaurant and viewing deck built in the 1960s, it now stands as a vast, graffiti-covered ruin.

While officially decommissioned, the views from this concrete shell are genuinely jaw-dropping, offering a 360-degree perspective of the entire city, the Tagus River, and the Atlantic beyond. It requires a bus or short taxi ride to reach, making it inconvenient enough to keep the crowds away.

  • Why it’s “Less Travelled”: It’s outside the central walking zone, requiring dedicated transport.
  • The Insider Tip: Go for sunrise or sunset. Bring good walking shoes and a tripod for unforgettable photos from the Panorâmico.

2. Sail Across the Tagus for Seafood Bliss at Cacilhas

What it is: A quick, inexpensive ferry ride across the Tagus River to the industrial-chic municipality of Almada, offering arguably the best views of the Lisbon skyline.

While the famous Vasco da Gama Bridge and the 25 de Abril Bridge dominate the skyline, taking a short trip on the iconic orange Cacilheiros ferry from Cais do Sodré is a true local experience. The destination, Cacilhas, feels a world away from the busy, boutique-lined streets of Chiado.

Instead of monuments, you find authentic, old-school Portugal. Head straight for Rua Cândido dos Reis, a street lined with incredible, reasonably priced seafood restaurants (marisqueiras). Dining here means indulging in freshly caught fish, grilled to perfection, and avoiding the tourist mark-up found in the city center.

Don’t miss the chance to walk a little further to the 110-meter-tall Cristo Rei statue. While Belem Tower is beautiful, viewing the city skyline with the entire Lisbon waterfront framed across the water is a perspective few tourists ever seek out.

  • Why it’s “Less Travelled”: Tourists rarely leave the Lisbon side of the river unless heading to the main beaches.
  • The Insider Tip: Try the restaurant Ponto Final for stunning riverside dining right on the water (reservations essential) or Solar dos Nunes for a cozier, highly authentic experience.

3. Explore Tile-Soaked History at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo

What it is: The National Tile Museum, housed in the magnificent former Convent of Madre de Deus, dedicated entirely to the history and artistry of Portugal’s defining cultural expression: the azulejo (painted ceramic tile).

While every street corner in Lisbon is adorned with beautiful tiles, few visitors dedicate the time to understand the profound history behind this art form. The Azulejo Museum may not sound as instantly thrilling as a castle, but it is essential to understanding the city’s identity.

Located slightly off the beaten track in the eastern suburbs (near Santa Apolónia), the museum showcases five centuries of ceramic evolution, from Moorish influence to Baroque grandeur. The real highlight is the stunning Great View of Lisbon—a 23-meter-long panel of tiles dating from 1738, depicting the city’s skyline before the devastating earthquake of 1755.

Walking through the ornate church and the quiet cloisters of the convent offers a peaceful, meditative experience far removed from the crush of the central museums.

  • Why it’s “Less Travelled”: Its location is slightly inconvenient, requiring a short taxi or specific bus route.
  • The Insider Tip: Take time to admire the stunning, gold-leaf-laden chapel inside the former convent—it rivals those in Belém.

4. Discover the Industrial Grit of Marvila (Lisbon’s Brooklyn)

What it is: A rapidly gentrifying, formerly industrial neighborhood east of the Parque das Nações, now home to warehouses converted into craft breweries, contemporary art spaces, and cutting-edge gastronomy.

If you’re looking for Lisbon’s hip, creative heartbeat—the neighborhood where young artists and entrepreneurs are truly setting up shop—it’s Marvila. It lacks the historic charm of Alfama but makes up for it with raw, industrial energy.

This is the perfect spot for the craft beer enthusiast. Marvila boasts a strip of excellent breweries operating out of converted warehouses, including Musa and Dois Corvos. Unlike the tourist taverns, these spots offer excellent local brews, complex menus, and a true sense of community.

Beyond the beer, Marvila is home to massive art galleries and unique cultural hubs that are constantly changing, reflecting a contemporary Lisbon that is dynamic and forward-looking.

  • Why it’s “Less Travelled”: It’s still transitioning and is primarily a local destination, far from the central tourist loop.
  • The Insider Tip: Visit on a weekend afternoon to enjoy the buzzing atmosphere at the breweries when they often have food trucks or live music.

5. Trade Sintra’s Fairytale Crowds for the Coastal Calm of Ericeira

What it is: A traditional fishing town located about 45 minutes north of Lisbon, designated as Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve.

Sintra is spectacular, but during peak season, it can feel more like an amusement park than a historical site. For a coastal day trip that delivers beauty, tradition, and relaxation, head to Ericeira.

While it’s internationally famous among surfers for its diverse reef and beach breaks, the town itself maintains an incredible, whitewashed village charm. Here, you’ll find narrow, winding streets, blue-and-white houses, and excellent local bakeries selling regional specialties (ouriços and tâmaras).

The atmosphere is noticeably slower and more authentic than that of the tourist hub of Cascais. Spend the day watching the surfers at Ribeira d’Ilhas, wander through the historic center, and enjoy a spectacular ocean-view meal featuring the freshest catch of the day.

  • Why it’s “Less Travelled”: It requires a dedicated bus journey (or car hire) and is often overlooked in favor of the more marketed Sintra or Cascais.
  • The Insider Tip: Have lunch at a traditional marisqueira near the fishing port to ensure the fish was caught that morning.

The Next Chapter of Your Lisbon Story

Lisbon is a city of layers. Once you peel back the vibrant, initial layer of historic landmarks and Fado-filled taverns, you discover a deeper, more rewarding experience.

These five spots are not just alternatives; they are invitations. They invite you to slow down, cross the river, explore the urban edge, and understand the real, living pulse of one of Europe’s most exciting capitals.

Have you explored any of these hidden Lisbon gems? Share your favourite road less travelled experience in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Athens

Athens: The Road Less Travelled – Your Next Five Unforgettable Discoveries

Athens. The very name conjures images of ancient wonders: the majestic Acropolis, the bustling Plaka, the grandeur of the Parthenon. And rightly so – these iconic sites are breathtaking and essential to any first-time visit. But what if you’ve already stood in awe of the Caryatids, navigated the labyrinthine streets of Plaka, or found yourself yearning for something beyond the well-trodden tourist path?

Athens is a city of layers, a vibrant tapestry where ancient history brushes shoulders with modern grit, bohemian charm, and serene coastal beauty. For the curious traveller eager to dig a little deeper, to uncover the authentic soul of this magnificent metropolis, a wealth of hidden gems awaits.

So, if you’re ready to venture beyond the postcards, here are the next top five things to do or see in Athens, proving that the road less travelled truly leads to unforgettable discoveries:

1. Lose Yourself in Anafiotika: An Island Village in the City

Nestled directly under the shadow of the Acropolis, yet often overlooked, lies Anafiotika. This tiny, picturesque neighbourhood feels like a Cycladic island village magically transplanted to the heart of Athens. Built by craftsmen from the island of Anafi who came to Athens in the 19th century to work on King Otto’s palace, they created homes reminiscent of their homeland.

Why it’s unique: Whitewashed cubic houses, impossibly narrow alleys, vibrant bougainvillea, and sleepy cats create an atmosphere of serene timelessness. It’s an oasis of calm that feels a world away from the city’s hustle and bustle, despite being just steps from the tourist throng.

What to do: Wander aimlessly. Get wonderfully lost. Discover hidden churches, admire the unique architecture, and soak in the tranquil ambience. It’s a photographer’s dream and a perfect spot for quiet contemplation.

Pro Tip: Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds and catch the best light. Allow yourself to simply be rather than rushing through.

2. Embrace the Bohemian Heart of Exarchia

For a taste of Athens’ alternative, intellectual, and slightly rebellious spirit, head to Exarchia. This neighbourhood is a vibrant hub of students, artists, and activists, known for its lively squares, independent bookstores, vintage shops, and some of the city’s most striking street art.

Why it’s unique: Exarchia offers a raw, unfiltered view of contemporary Athenian life. It’s a place of passionate debate, political murals, and a strong sense of community. It’s not sanitised for tourists; it’s authentic, edgy, and exhilarating.

What to do: Explore the captivating street art, grab a coffee at one of the bustling cafes on Exarchia Square, browse the unique bookstores (many with English sections), or catch a live music performance in a local bar. The open-air cinema, Cine Vox, is also a summer highlight.

Pro Tip: While generally safe during the day, be aware of your surroundings, especially at night. It’s a place to observe and soak in the atmosphere respectfully, rather than overtly act like a tourist.

3. Savour the Culinary & Cultural Delights of Pangrati

Just a stone’s throw from the Panathenaic Stadium (the site of the first modern Olympic Games), but much less explored by visitors, lies Pangrati. This charming, upscale residential neighbourhood is a true Athenian gem, celebrated for its fantastic food scene, stylish boutiques, and relaxed, local vibe.

Why it’s unique: Pangrati is where Athenians go to eat, drink, and socialise. You’ll find traditional tavernas serving authentic Greek dishes alongside trendy cafes, wine bars, and gourmet restaurants. It’s less about ancient ruins and more about experiencing daily Athenian life.

What to do: Embark on a self-guided food tour, hopping from ouzeri (meze bar) to taverna for delicious local specialities. Visit the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art for a dose of modern culture, or simply enjoy a leisurely coffee and watch the world go by in one of its leafy squares.

Pro Tip: Don’t miss the chance to try a koulouri (sesame bread ring) from a street vendor or indulge in a traditional bougatsa (custard-filled pastry) for breakfast.

4. Unwind by the Athenian Riviera & Lake Vouliagmeni

Who knew Athens had a stunning coastline easily accessible from the city centre? Escape the urban heat and discover the Athenian Riviera, a beautiful stretch of coastline dotted with beaches, marinas, and charming seaside towns. A particular highlight is Lake Vouliagmeni.

Why it’s unique: This natural thermal lake, nestled in a breathtaking setting, is a hidden wellness oasis. Its brackish waters are constantly refreshed by both the sea and underground thermal springs, maintaining a year-round temperature of 22-29°C (71-84°F). It’s home to natural fish spa therapies and is rich in minerals.

What to do: Swim in the therapeutic waters of Lake Vouliagmeni, relax on the sunbeds, or enjoy a coffee with a view. Further along the Riviera, explore the chic beaches of Glyfada or enjoy fresh seafood at a coastal taverna.

Pro Tip: Take the tram (T6 from Syntagma Square), which runs along the coast, offering scenic views and easy access to various spots along the Riviera. It’s a fantastic half or full-day escape.

5. Embark on a Street Art Safari in Metaxourgeio & Kerameikos

While Exarchia offers a glimpse, the neighbourhoods of Metaxourgeio and Kerameikos are increasingly becoming an open-air gallery showcasing some of Athens’ most powerful and poignant street art. These areas, once neglected, are undergoing a renaissance, with art playing a significant role in their transformation.

Why it’s unique: Beyond mere graffiti, you’ll discover huge, intricate murals by renowned Greek and international artists that tell stories, provoke thought, and add vibrant colour to the urban landscape. It’s a dynamic, ever-changing exhibition that reflects the pulse of the city.

What to do: Take a guided street art tour (many local companies offer them) to understand the history and meaning behind the pieces, or simply wander with an open mind and a camera. You’ll find works ranging from political commentary to whimsical fantasies. Afterwards, enjoy a drink in one of Metaxourgeio’s trendy bars.

Pro Tip: Don’t just look at the big pieces; pay attention to smaller, intricate stencils and tags that reveal hidden gems around every corner. Keep an eye out for commissioned works as well as more anarchic expressions.

Athens is a city that rewards the curious, the adventurous, and those willing to step a little off the beaten path. While the ancient marvels will always be its cornerstone, these five “next steps” offer a richer, more diverse, and deeply authentic immersion into the heart and soul of this incredible European capital. So, pack your bags, lace up your comfortable shoes, and prepare to discover the Athens you never knew existed!

What hidden gems have you discovered in Athens? Share your favourite “road less travelled” spots in the comments below!

Research for the writing of a thriller – 1

Background material used in creating a location, an explosive situation, and characters to bring it alive – the story – A Score to Settle

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The premise

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The Powder Keg Conference: When Irony Meets Incitement in the Republic of Azmar

The world of international politics often serves up a certain dish of absurdity, but occasionally, the ingredients align for a truly catastrophic meal. We are witnessing such a geopolitical culinary disaster right now, brewing in the fictional Republic of Azmar.

Azmar is, by all measures, a textbook example of modern authoritarianism: a military dictatorship, financially and politically shielded by a major superpower, and helmed by President General Kroll, a man whose personal wealth seems to increase inversely to his country’s freedoms. The regime’s human rights abuses—disappearances, rigged judiciary, suppression of dissent—are not simply allegations; they are an open, festering secret among global watchdog organizations.

And yet, this week, Azmar is throwing a party.

The Irony Convention

In a move that strains the very definition of chutzpah, the Kroll regime is hosting the Global Summit for Progressive Human Rights Advancement.

The contrast is dizzying. While political prisoners languish in overcrowded, secret facilities, the capital city has been scrubbed clean. Banners proclaiming “Justice Through Dialogue” hang from lampposts. The state-run media is ecstatic, broadcasting endless interviews about Azmar’s commitment to “international transparency.”

The goal, of course, is not dialogue. It is legitimization. The conference is a Potemkin Village, a meticulously constructed facade designed to convince foreign investors and, more importantly, the regime’s international patrons that Azmar is a stable, reforming nation.

And perhaps the most volatile element of this stagecraft? The roster of attendees.

The Ethical Tightrope Walk of the Keynote Speaker

The event has attracted truly renowned figures: Nobel Laureates, celebrated international lawyers, and veteran human rights defenders. These are people whose careers have been defined by fighting the very abuses Azmar exemplifies.

Why are they here? For some, it is the genuine belief that dialogue must occur, even with the devil. For others, it’s the hefty speaking fees and the promise of a global stage. Whatever the motivation, their presence offers the Kroll regime exactly what it craves: a veneer of institutional approval.

When a celebrated author stands at the podium, criticizing abstract concepts of oppression while simultaneously shaking hands with the architect of that oppression, the lines between principle and pragmatism blur dangerously. Their words, intended as a critique, are instead absorbed into the regime’s propaganda machine: “See? Even the world’s greatest thinkers endorse Azmar’s path forward.”

It is a tense, ethically compromised theatre. But the real drama is about to erupt just outside the conference hall.

The Return of the Ghost

For years, the domestic unrest in Azmar has been a low, continuous rumble—a simmering resentment against Kroll’s corruption and brutality. The memory of the previous government, the democratically elected administration deposed in the violent coup fifteen years ago, lingered like a ghost, kept alive only by hushed whispers.

That ghost has just materialized.

Simultaneously with the arrival of the international luminaries, news has swept through the Azmari underground that Elias Mendieta, the long-missing son of the deposed and disappeared president, has returned home.

Elias Mendieta represents everything President Kroll is not: legitimacy, democratic mandate, and the promise of a free Azmar. His return is not just political news; it is a profound symbolic act. It transforms simmering discontent into active incitement.

The Collision Course

The timing is either impossibly unlucky for President Kroll or perfectly calculated by Mendieta’s supporters.

Think about the dynamics now at play:

  1. Maximum Global Focus: The world’s major media outlets and human rights organizations are all focused on Azmar due to the conference.
  2. Maximum Internal Tension: The regime has poured all its resources into maintaining a facade of tranquility, meaning security forces are stretched and focused on keeping the peace in the capital’s diplomatic quarters.
  3. Maximum Ideological Threat: Elias Mendieta, the embodiment of popular resistance and democratic history, is now mobilizing supporters in the streets.

This is not a political confrontation that will play out in press releases. This is a dramatic, high-stakes collision.

If Mendieta attempts to make a dramatic public appearance, the regime faces an impossible choice:

  • Option A: Allow him to speak. This instantly delegitimizes the conference and risks igniting mass protests that could turn revolutionary.
  • Option B: Arrest or silence him violently. Doing so while Nobel Laureates are debating “the future of free expression” literally blocks away would shatter the carefully constructed facade and invite global condemnation, potentially forcing the major power propping up Kroll to finally step back.

The Republic of Azmar has prepared a gilded stage for a dialogue on human rights, but what is truly about to commence is a revolution.

What could possibly go wrong? Everything. And we are all watching the fuse burn down.

Another excerpt from “Strangers We’ve Become” – A sequel to ‘What Sets Us Apart’

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It was the first time in almost a week that I made the short walk to the cafe alone.  It was early, and the chill of the morning was still in the air.  In summer, it was the best time of the day.  When Susan came with me, it was usually much later, when the day was much warmer and less tolerable.

On the morning of the third day of her visit, Susan said she was missing the hustle and bustle of London, and by the end of the fourth she said, in not so many words, she was over being away from ‘civilisation’.  This was a side of her I had not seen before, and it surprised me.

She hadn’t complained, but it was making her irritable.  The Susan that morning was vastly different to the Susan on the first day.  So much, I thought, for her wanting to ‘reconnect’, the word she had used as the reason for coming to Greve unannounced.

It was also the first morning I had time to reflect on her visit and what my feelings were towards her.  It was the reason I’d come to Greve: to soak up the peace and quiet and think about what I was going to do with the rest of my life.

I sat in my usual corner.  Maria, one of two waitresses, came out, stopped, and there was no mistaking the relief in her manner.  There was an air of tension between Susan and Maria I didn’t understand, and it seemed to emanate from Susan rather than the other way around.  I could understand her attitude if it was towards Alisha, but not Maria.  All she did was serve coffee and cake.

When Maria recovered from the momentary surprise, she said, smiling, “You are by yourself?”  She gave a quick glance in the direction of my villa, just to be sure.

“I am this morning.  I’m afraid the heat, for one who is not used to it, can be quite debilitating.  I’m also afraid it has had a bad effect on her manners, for which I apologise.  I cannot explain why she has been so rude to you.”

“You do not have to apologise for her, David, but it is of no consequence to me.  I have had a lot worse.  I think she is simply jealous.”

It had crossed my mind, but there was no reason for her to be.  “Why?”

“She is a woman, I am a woman, she thinks because you and I are friends, there is something between us.”

It made sense, even if it was not true.  “Perhaps if I explained…”

Maria shook her head.  “If there is a hole in the boat, you should not keep bailing but try to plug the hole.  My grandfather had many expressions, David.  If I may give you one piece of advice, as much as it is none of my business, you need to make your feelings known, and if they are not as they once were, and I think they are not, you need to tell her.  Before she goes home.”

Interesting advice.  Not only a purveyor of excellent coffee, but Maria was also a psychiatrist who had astutely worked out my dilemma.  What was that expression, ‘not just a pretty face’?

“Is she leaving soon?” I asked, thinking Maria knew more about Susan’s movements than I did.

“You would disappoint me if you had not suspected as much.  Susan was having coffee and talking to someone in her office on a cell phone.  It was an intense conversation.  I should not eavesdrop, but she said being here was like being stuck in hell.  It is a pity she does not share your love for our little piece of paradise, is it not?”

“It is indeed.  And you’re right.  She said she didn’t have a phone, but I know she has one.  She just doesn’t value the idea of getting away from the office.  Perhaps her role doesn’t afford her that luxury.”

And perhaps Alisha was right about Maria, that I should be more careful.  She had liked Maria the moment she saw her.  We had sat at this very table, the first day I arrived.  I would have travelled alone, but Prendergast, my old boss, liked to know where ex-employees of the Department were, and what they were doing.

She sighed.  “I am glad I am just a waitress.  Your usual coffee and cake?”

“Yes, please.”

Several months had passed since we had rescued Susan from her despotic father; she had recovered faster than we had thought, and settled into her role as the new Lady Featherington, though she preferred not to use that title, but go by the name of Lady Susan Cheney.

I didn’t get to be a Lord, or have any title, not that I was expecting one.  What I had expected was that Susan, once she found her footing as head of what seemed to be a commercial empire, would not have time for details like husbands, particularly when our agreement made before the wedding gave either of us the right to end it.

There was a moment when I visited her recovering in the hospital, where I was going to give her the out, but I didn’t, and she had not invoked it.  We were still married, just not living together.

This visit was one where she wanted to ‘reconnect’ as she called it, and invite me to come home with her.  She saw no reason why we could not resume our relationship, conveniently forgetting she indirectly had me arrested for her murder, charges both her mother and Lucy vigorously pursued, and had the clone not returned to save me, I might still be in jail.

It was not something I would forgive or forget any time soon.

There were other reasons why I was reluctant to stay with her, like forgetting small details, an irregularity in her character I found odd.  She looked the same, she sounded the same, she basically acted the same, but my mind was telling me something was not right.  It was not the Susan I first met, even allowing for the ordeal she had been subjected to.

But, despite those misgivings, there was no question in my mind that I still loved her, and her clandestine arrival had brought back all those feelings.  But as the days passed, I began to get the impression my feelings were one-sided and she was just going through the motions.

Which brought me to the last argument, earlier, where I said if I went with her, it would be business meetings, social obligations, and quite simply her ‘celebrity’ status that would keep us apart.  I reminded her that I had said from the outset I didn’t like the idea of being in the spotlight, and when I reiterated it, she simply brushed it off as just part of the job, adding rather strangely that I always looked good in a suit.  The flippancy of that comment was the last straw, and I left before I said something I would regret.

I knew I was not a priority.  Maybe somewhere inside me, I had wanted to be a priority, and I was disappointed when I was not.

And finally, there was Alisha.  Susan, at the height of the argument, had intimated she believed I had an affair with her, but that elephant was always in the room whenever Alisha was around.  It was no surprise when I learned Susan had asked Prendergast to reassign her to other duties. 

At least I knew what my feelings for Alisha were, and there were times when I had to remember she was persona non grata.  Perhaps that was why Susan had her banished, but, again, a small detail; jealousy was not one of Susan’s traits when I first knew her.

Perhaps it was time to set Susan free.

When I swung around to look in the direction of the lane where my villa was, I saw Susan.  She was formally dressed, not in her ‘tourist’ clothes, which she had bought from one of the local clothing stores.  We had fun that day, shopping for clothes, a chore I’d always hated.  It had been followed by a leisurely lunch, lots of wine and soul searching.

It was the reason why I sat in this corner; old habits die hard.  I could see trouble coming from all directions, not that Susan was trouble or at least I hoped not, but it allowed me the time to watch her walking towards the cafe in what appeared to be short, angry steps; perhaps the culmination of the heat wave and our last argument.

She glared at me as she sat, dropping her bag beside her on the ground, where I could see the cell phone sitting on top.  She followed my glance down, and then she looked unrepentant back at me.

Maria came back at the exact moment she was going to speak.  I noticed Maria hesitate for a second when she saw Susan, then put her smile in place to deliver my coffee.

Neither spoke nor looked at each other.  I said, “Susan will have what I’m having, thanks.”

Maria nodded and left.

“Now,” I said, leaning back in my seat, “I’m sure there’s a perfectly good explanation as to why you didn’t tell me about the phone, but that first time you disappeared, I’d guessed you needed to keep in touch with your business interests.  I thought it somewhat unwisethat you should come out when the board of one of your companies was trying to remove you, because of what was it, an unexplained absence?  All you had to do was tell me there were problems and you needed to remain at home to resolve them.”

My comment elicited a sideways look, with a touch of surprise.

“It was unfortunate timing on their behalf, and I didn’t want you to think everything else was more important than us.  There were issues before I came, and I thought the people at home would be able to manage without me for at least a week, but I was wrong.”

“Why come at all.  A phone call would have sufficed.”

“I had to see you, talk to you.  At least we have had a chance to do that.  I’m sorry about yesterday.  I once told you I would not become my mother, but I’m afraid I sounded just like her.  I misjudged just how much this role would affect me, and truly, I’m sorry.”

An apology was the last thing I expected.

“You have a lot of work to do catching up after being away, and of course, in replacing your mother and gaining the requisite respect as the new Lady Featherington.  I think it would be for the best if I were not another distraction.  We have plenty of time to reacquaint ourselves when you get past all these teething issues.”

“You’re not coming with me?”  She sounded disappointed.

“I think it would be for the best if I didn’t.”

“Why?”

“It should come as no surprise to you that I’ve been keeping an eye on your progress.  You are so much better doing your job without me.  I told your mother once that when the time came I would not like the responsibilities of being your husband.  Now that I have seen what it could possibly entail, I like it even less.  You might also want to reconsider our arrangement, after all, we only had a marriage of convenience, and now that those obligations have been fulfilled, we both have the option of terminating it.  I won’t make things difficult for you if that’s what you want.”

It was yet another anomaly, I thought; she should look distressed, and I would raise the matter of that arrangement.  Perhaps she had forgotten the finer points.  I, on the other hand, had always known we would not last forever.  The perplexed expression, to me, was a sign she might have forgotten.

Then, her expression changed.  “Is that what you want?”

“I wasn’t madly in love with you when we made that arrangement, so it was easy to agree to your terms, but inexplicably, since then, my feelings for you changed, and I would be sad if we parted ways.  But the truth is, I can’t see how this is going to work.”

“In saying that, do you think I don’t care for you?”

That was exactly what I was thinking, but I wasn’t going to voice that opinion out loud.  “You spent a lot of time finding new ways to make my life miserable, Susan.  You and that wretched friend of yours, Lucy.  While your attitude improved after we were married, that was because you were going to use me when you went to see your father, and then almost let me go to prison for your murder.”

“I had nothing to do with that, other than to leave, and I didn’t agree with Lucy that you should be made responsible for my disappearance.  I cannot be held responsible for the actions of my mother.  She hated you; Lucy didn’t understand you, and Millie told me I was stupid for not loving you in return, and she was right.  Why do you think I gave you such a hard time?  You made it impossible not to fall in love with you, and it nearly changed my mind about everything I’d been planning so meticulously.  But perhaps there was a more subliminal reason why I did because after I left, I wanted to believe, if anything went wrong, you would come and find me.”

“How could you possibly know that I’d even consider doing something like that, given what you knew about me?”

“Prendergast made a passing comment when my mother asked him about you; he told us you were very good at finding people and even better at fixing problems.”

“And yet here we are, one argument away from ending it.”

I could see Maria hovering, waiting for the right moment to deliver her coffee, then go back and find Gianna, the café owner, instead.  Gianna was more abrupt and, for that reason, was rarely seen serving the customers.  Today, she was particularly cantankerous, banging the cake dish on the table and frowning at Susan before returning to her kitchen.  Gianna didn’t like Susan either.

Behind me, I heard a car stop, and when she looked up, I knew it was for her.  She had arrived with nothing, and she was leaving with nothing.

She stood.  “Last chance.”

“Forever?”

She hesitated and then shook away the look of annoyance on her face.  “Of course not.  I wanted you to come back with me so we could continue working on our relationship.  I agree there are problems, but it’s nothing we can’t resolve if we try.”

I had been trying.  “It’s too soon for both of us, Susan.  I need to be able to trust you, and given the circumstances, and all that water under the bridge, I’m not sure if I can yet.”

She frowned at me.  “As you wish.”  She took an envelope out of her bag and put it on the table.  “When you are ready, it’s an open ticket home.  Please make it sooner rather than later.  Despite what you think of me, I have missed you, and I have no intention of ending it between us.”

That said, she glared at me for a minute, shook her head, then walked to the car.  I watched her get in and the car drive slowly away.

No kiss, no touch, no looking back. 

…

© Charles Heath 2018-2025

strangerscover9

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 1

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

…

What was the path an aristocratic son had to follow to become a commissioned officer in the armed services?

After the abolition of the purchase system in 1871, the path for an aristocratic son to become a commissioned officer still heavily favoured his social standing, despite being based officially on merit and examination. For the army, this typically involved attending elite public schools and then the Royal Military College at Sandhurst. For the Royal Navy, it meant entering training at a young age. 

The path to a commission in the British Army

1. Elite education at a public school:

  • Preparatory training: A military career was often decided early, with many boys attending elite public schools like  Eton ,  Harrow , or  Radley
  • Officer Training Corps (OTC): From the age of 13, public schools would operate Officers’ Training Corps units that groomed students specifically for military leadership.
  • “Character” over academics: While academic standards were needed for entry, the emphasis was placed on developing the “right character,” reinforcing the idea that officers came from a specific class. 

2. Entry into a military college:

  • Sandhurst: Most aspiring infantry and cavalry officers would attend the 

Royal Military College (RMC) at Sandhurst

. Entry was competitive and primarily based on entrance examinations.

  • Woolwich: Those seeking commissions in the Royal Engineers or Royal Artillery—branches that never had a purchase system due to their specialised nature—had to graduate from the  Royal Military Academy at Woolwich

. 

3. Choosing a regiment and affording the lifestyle:

  • Social connections: Regimental officers retained the right to vet potential candidates, and social connections helped ensure entry into a prestigious unit, particularly the Guards or Household Cavalry.
  • Extracurricular costs: While the commission was no longer purchased, aristocratic officers were expected to maintain an expensive lifestyle. This included high mess bills and funding for activities like polo, which were far beyond the means of lower-class men.
  • Financial support: Despite a junior officer’s pay being modest, aristocratic families could afford to subsidise their sons, making it possible to serve in the most expensive regiments. 

The path to a commission in the Royal Navy

Unlike the army, the Royal Navy did not use the purchase system and was theoretically more meritocratic. However, patronage and wealth still played a significant role. 

1. Entering the service at a young age:

  • Cadet entry: Aspiring naval officers would join the service as young cadets, often around 12 years old. For the aristocracy, this could be arranged through familial connections.
  • Britannia Royal Naval College: From 1863, naval officer training was institutionalised through training ships and later at the  Royal Naval College, Dartmouth

. 

2. Training as a midshipman:

  • Practical experience: Following college, a cadet was appointed a midshipman and had to gain extensive practical experience at sea.
  • Patronage: Connections remained crucial, as a senior officer could take a young man under his wing. Many officers were reluctant to take on those without influential family connections. 

3. The Lieutenant’s examination:

  • Merit-based advancement: The most significant step was passing the “Lieutenant’s Examination,” a demanding test of nautical and mathematical knowledge. Failure meant a midshipman could remain without promotion indefinitely.
  • Post-exam placement: Even after passing, social connections were often necessary to secure an active posting, as there were always more qualified officers than available positions. 

Writing about writing a book – Research – 8

Background material used in researching the Vietnam was and various other aspects of that period

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Professional soldiers versus the conscripts or nashos

..

The Digger and the Nasho: A Comparative Analysis of the Experiences of Regular and Conscripted Soldiers in the Australian Army Task Force, Vietnam

Abstract The Australian commitment to the Vietnam War (1962-1973) was uniquely characterised by the deployment of a large contingent of conscripted soldiers, known as “Nashos,” alongside the volunteer regulars of the professional Australian Army. A pervasive national myth suggests that these two groups were seamlessly integrated, sharing identical experiences, burdens, and fates. This paper challenges that homogenised view. Through an analysis of recruitment, training, unit deployment, operational roles, and the psychosocial experience of homecoming, it argues that while regulars and conscripts were indeed tactically integrated and performed with equal distinction, significant differences in pre-deployment conditioning, perceived military purpose, and post-war societal reception created a fundamentally distinct lived experience for each group. The paper concludes that the policy of tactical integration, while militarily sound, could not erase the profound underlying distinctions between the volunteer and the compelled soldier.

Keywords: Vietnam War, Australia, Conscription, National Service, Australian Army, Military History, Civil-Military Relations, Veterans

1. Introduction

Australia’s involvement in the Vietnam War remains one of the most contentious periods in the nation’s modern history. Central to this controversy was the Menzies government’s reintroduction of conscription in 1964 via the National Service Act 1964, which required twenty-year-old males to register for a lottery-style ballot (the “birthday ballot”). Those selected were obligated to undertake two years of continuous service, which included deployment to an overseas theatre of war, specifically Vietnam. Between 1965 and 1972, approximately 63,735 national servicemen were enlisted, of whom 15,381 served in Vietnam, constituting nearly 40% of all Australian troops deployed (Dennis et al., 2008).

The official military narrative, both at the time and in subsequent decades, emphasised the seamless integration of these conscripts, or “Nashos,” into the regular army. They wore the same uniform, trained in the same institutions, and fought alongside career soldiers in the same infantry sections and platoons. This led to a public perception of a monolithic “Digger” experience. However, a deeper historiographical examination reveals a more complex reality. This paper will argue that while the Australian Army Task Force (1ATF) successfully integrated conscripts and regulars at a tactical level for operational effectiveness, the two groups’ experiences were differentiated by fundamental factors: their reasons for being there, their career trajectories, their assignment to specific corps, their psychological framing of the conflict, and their vastly different receptions upon returning home.

2. Methodological Framework and Sources

This analysis employs a comparative historical methodology, drawing upon a range of primary and secondary sources. Primary sources include official government documents, unit war diaries, and personal narratives from veterans of both groups. Secondary sources comprise scholarly military histories, sociological studies on conscription, and psychological analyses of Vietnam veterans. The paper will structure its comparison across several key domains: recruitment and training, unit deployment and corps assignment, combat experience, and post-deployment life.

3. Recruitment and Training: The Volunteer and the Conscript

The initial and most profound difference lay in the state of mind upon entry into the military.

3.1 The Regular Soldier The regular army volunteer enlisted as a career choice. Motivated by factors including family tradition, a desire for adventure, economic opportunity, or a belief in the “Forward Defence” policy and the Domino Theory, the regular made a conscious decision to become a professional soldier (McNeill, 1984). Their training was part of a long-term investment in a military profession. They often had more time to absorb military culture and skills, progressing through a system designed to retain them for years.

3.2 The National Serviceman In stark contrast, the Nasho was compelled. His entry was not a choice but a result of statistical chance. While some accepted their fate with equanimity or even enthusiasm, many others felt resentment, anxiety, or a sense of profound injustice (Edwards, 1997). Their two-year service was a finite interruption to their civilian lives—university, apprenticeships, careers. This created a “tourist” mentality, a focus on surviving their 365-day operational tour and returning to “the World.” Their initial training at Scheyville or Puckapunyal, while intense, was accelerated, designed to produce a combat-ready infantryman in a matter of months, not a long-serving professional.

This divergence in motivation and temporal perspective created an underlying psychological schism. The regular was building a life; the Nasho was serving a sentence.

4. Unit Deployment and Corps Assignment: The Myth of Total Integration

While it is true that once in Vietnam, Nashos and regulars were mixed within units, their pathways to specific roles were not identical.

4.1 The Infantry: A Forced Integration The policy of the Army was to fully integrate national servicemen into regular battalions. A typical rifle company in 6RAR or 7RAR would be a mix of regular and conscripted soldiers. In the field, on patrol, and in contact with the enemy, no distinction was made. Promotion was based on merit and vacancy; many conscripts attained the rank of Corporal or even Sergeant, leading sections or platoons that contained regular soldiers (Coulthard-Clark, 2001). In the crucible of combat, the bond of “mateship” overwhelmingly superseded the distinction between volunteer and conscript. Survival depended on mutual trust and professional competence, not one’s method of enlistment.

4.2 The Corps Divide: Voluntary Skilled Roles However, a significant difference emerged in assignments to certain specialist corps. Technical support roles—in the Royal Australian Engineers (RAE), Royal Australian Signals (RASigs), Royal Australian Army Ordnance Corps (RAAOC), and Royal Australian Electrical and Mechanical Engineers (RAEME)—were overwhelmingly filled by regular soldiers (O’Keefe, 1994). These roles required long-term training and investment, making them unsuitable for a conscript on a two-year stint. A Nasho could not train for 12-18 months to be a signals technician only to have 6 months of useful service.

Conversely, the infantry and armour (tank and APC crews), which required robust numbers and where training could be completed relatively quickly, absorbed the vast majority of conscripts. This meant that while conscripts were fully integrated into the infantry, they were significantly underrepresented in the technical and logistical support corps. Consequently, the dangerous, relentless “grunt” work of patrolling and engaging the enemy in the jungles of Phuoc Tuy province fell disproportionately, though not exclusively, to a force that was 40-50% conscripted.

5. The Combat Experience: Shared Danger, Divergent Perspectives

In the operational area, the experience of danger was a great leveller. A bullet or mine did not discriminate between a volunteer and a conscript. Patrols, ambushes, and major battles like Long Tan (1966) and Coral-Balmoral (1968) were fought by integrated units. The primary identity in combat was that of the section, the platoon, and the battalion.

Yet, the psychological lens through which this experience was filtered differed. For the regular, this was his job, the culmination of his training, and a step in his career. For the Nasho, it was often an alien, terrifying ordeal to be endured until his DEROS (Date Eligible for Return from Overseas). Historian Peter Edwards notes that conscripts frequently expressed a more instrumental view of the war: their goal was not a grand strategic victory but the more immediate objective of keeping themselves and their mates alive until their tour ended (Edwards, 1997). This did not make them less effective soldiers, but it did colour their personal narrative of the conflict.

6. The Homecoming: The Deepening Divide

The most stark and damaging difference between the two groups manifested upon their return to Australia.

6.1 The Regular Soldier For the career soldier, returning to Australia often meant returning to the supportive, insular community of an army base. His professional identity was validated within his institution. He could continue his career, often with another posting, surrounded by colleagues who understood his experience.

6.2 The National Serviceman For the Nasho, the end of his tour meant an immediate and often brutal transition. He was discharged from the army, given a suit, a pay cheque, and sent back to a society that was deeply divided over the war he had just fought. He returned not to a military community but to a civilian one where his experience was either misunderstood or met with outright hostility. He was instructed not to wear his uniform in public to avoid abuse. The societal rejection felt by many Vietnam veterans was, therefore, a burden borne disproportionately by the conscripts, who were thrust back into the civilian world that had rejected the war (Jensen, 2021). They lacked the ongoing institutional support structure of the army, leaving many to process trauma and alienation alone.

7. Conclusion

The Australian Army’s policy of integrating regular soldiers and conscripts in Vietnam was an operational success. At the tactical level, in the infantry battalions that formed the backbone of 1ATF, the distinction between “Nasho” and “Digger” was largely irrelevant to the conduct of military operations. They fought together, bled together, and achieved together with equal valour and professionalism.

However, to claim their experiences were identical is a historical oversimplification. Their journeys were bookended by profound differences. The regular began his journey with a sense of purpose and choice; the conscript began his with compulsion and interruption. While they fought side-by-side, conscripts were funnelled into the direct combat arms in greater proportion, while regulars dominated the technical support roles. Finally, and most significantly, their wars ended in utterly different ways: the regular returned to the embrace of his profession, while the conscript was cast adrift into a fractious and often hostile society.

The experience of the Australian soldier in Vietnam was not monolithic. It was a spectrum defined, above all, by the nature of one’s service. Understanding the nuanced differences between the regular and the conscript is crucial not only for historical accuracy but also for appreciating the complex and enduring legacy of the Vietnam War for Australian veterans and the nation itself. The integration was real in the jungle, but the dichotomy of choice versus chance created two distinct strands of experience within the same formidable military force.

References

  • Coulthard-Clark, C. (2001). The Encyclopaedia of Australia’s Battles. Allen & Unwin.
  • Dennis, P., Grey, J., Morris, E., Prior, R., & Bou, J. (2008). The Oxford Companion to Australian Military History (2nd ed.). Oxford University Press.
  • Edwards, P. (1997). A Nation at War: Australian Politics, Society and Diplomacy during the Vietnam War 1965-1975. Allen & Unwin.
  • Jensen, P. (2021). The Long Return: Australian Vietnam Veterans and their Endless War. NewSouth Publishing.
  • McNeill, I. (1984). The Team: Australian Army Advisers in Vietnam 1962-1972. Australian War Memorial.
  • O’Keefe, B. (1994). Medicine at War: Medical Aspects of Australia’s Involvement in Southeast Asia 1950-1972. Allen & Unwin.

Writing a book in 365 days – 318

Day 318

The use of flashbacks

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The Flashback Dilemma: Craft Tool or Narrative Crutch?

Ah, the flashback. That sudden warp in the narrative, pulling us from the present action into a scene from the past. For some readers, it’s a thrilling unravelling of mystery and character. For others, it’s a jarring interruption, a moment to sigh and wonder if the story will ever get back on track.

So, is the use of flashbacks good writing or bad writing? The short answer, like with most literary devices, is: it depends entirely on how it’s executed.

A flashback, by its very nature, is a pause in the forward momentum of your story. This pause can be a powerful strategic move, deepening the reader’s understanding and enriching the narrative tapestry. Or, it can be a clumsy misstep that derails the plot and tests your reader’s patience.

Let’s break down the difference between a lazily written and a well-constructed flashback.

The Pitfalls of a Lazily Written Flashback

A lazy flashback is often a symptom of one of two things: a writer struggling to convey information, or a writer avoiding present conflict.

  1. The Information Dump: This is perhaps the most common offender. The writer needs to inform the reader about a character’s past, a world detail, or a previous event, but instead of weaving it organically into the current narrative, they simply stop the action and insert a lengthy, undigested chunk of backstory.
    • How it feels to the reader: “Why am I being told this now? Does this really matter? Can we get back to what was happening?” It breaks immersion and feels like exposition masquerading as a scene.
    • Example: A character is about to face a dragon, and suddenly, we get three pages detailing their entire childhood trauma with kittens, completely unrelated to dragons or their immediate fear.
  2. Avoiding Present Conflict: Sometimes a writer introduces a flashback not because it’s crucial to the immediate scene, but because they’re unsure how to resolve or advance the current plot point. It’s a way to hit the “pause” button on a difficult scene.
    • How it feels to the reader: Frustrating. It feels like the story is treading water, or deliberately holding back for no good reason. The tension dissipates.
  3. Lacks a Clear Trigger or Purpose: A lazy flashback often appears out of nowhere, without a clear sensory trigger (a smell, a song, a phrase) or a strong narrative reason tied to the present moment. It just… happens.
  4. Telling, Not Showing: These flashbacks often recount events rather than immersing the reader in them. They summarise, rather than allow the reader to experience the past as if it were happening now.

The Art of a Well-Constructed Flashback

A well-constructed flashback is a precision tool, used sparingly and with surgical intent. It doesn’t halt the story; it deepens it, providing vital context that reshapes the reader’s understanding of the present.

Here’s what makes a flashback effective:

  1. Purpose-Driven and Relevant: Every successful flashback serves a clear, immediate purpose for the current narrative.
    • Context: It provides a crucial piece of information that makes the current events, character motivations, or mystery suddenly click into place.
    • Character Development: It reveals the origins of a character’s present fears, desires, strengths, or flaws, adding layers to their personality. Instead of telling us a character is brave, we see a past event that forged that bravery.
    • Mystery/Suspense: It offers a tantalising clue, a half-remembered moment that hints at a larger secret, building tension and propelling the reader forward to discover more.
    • Dramatic Irony: The reader gains knowledge that the present-day characters don’t have, intensifying the stakes.
  2. Seamless Integration and Clear Transitions: An excellent flashback is often triggered organically. A scent, a sound, a familiar face, a particular phrase – something in the present moment pulls the character (and the reader) back to the past. The transition should be clear, too, whether through distinct paragraph breaks, italics, or a narrative device.
  3. Concise and Focused: Like any good scene, a flashback should only include what’s absolutely necessary. It’s not an excuse for extraneous detail. It’s a snapshot, not a whole album.
  4. Impact on the Present: The most crucial element: a good flashback changes the reader’s perception of the present story. When the flashback ends, the reader should return to the main narrative with new information, a deeper emotional connection, or a shifted perspective that makes the current events more resonant. It should propel the story forward, not bog it down.
  5. Engaging as a Scene: Treat your flashback like any other critical scene. It should have its own mini-arc, vivid details, sensory descriptions, and emotional resonance. It shouldn’t feel like a summary.

Conclusion: A Tool for the Master, Not the Apprentice

Flashbacks are neither inherently good nor bad writing. They are a powerful, but dangerous, narrative device. In the hands of a skilled writer, they can unlock profound understanding, build unbearable tension, and imbue characters with incredible depth. In the hands of a novice, they can be a clunky, confusing obstacle.

Before you insert a flashback, ask yourself:

  • Why now? Why can’t this information be revealed through dialogue, internal thought, or action in the present?
  • What vital purpose does this serve for the current story?
  • Will it clarify or confuse?
  • Will it deepen character or merely delay plot?

If you can answer these questions with conviction, then by all means, employ the flashback. Just ensure it’s a finely crafted key, not a blunt instrument, to unlock the true potential of your story.

What are your thoughts on flashbacks? Do you have a favourite example of a story that uses them masterfully, or one that fumbled the ball? Share your insights in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Athens

Athens: The Road Less Travelled – Your Next Five Unforgettable Discoveries

Athens. The very name conjures images of ancient wonders: the majestic Acropolis, the bustling Plaka, the grandeur of the Parthenon. And rightly so – these iconic sites are breathtaking and essential to any first-time visit. But what if you’ve already stood in awe of the Caryatids, navigated the labyrinthine streets of Plaka, or found yourself yearning for something beyond the well-trodden tourist path?

Athens is a city of layers, a vibrant tapestry where ancient history brushes shoulders with modern grit, bohemian charm, and serene coastal beauty. For the curious traveller eager to dig a little deeper, to uncover the authentic soul of this magnificent metropolis, a wealth of hidden gems awaits.

So, if you’re ready to venture beyond the postcards, here are the next top five things to do or see in Athens, proving that the road less travelled truly leads to unforgettable discoveries:

1. Lose Yourself in Anafiotika: An Island Village in the City

Nestled directly under the shadow of the Acropolis, yet often overlooked, lies Anafiotika. This tiny, picturesque neighbourhood feels like a Cycladic island village magically transplanted to the heart of Athens. Built by craftsmen from the island of Anafi who came to Athens in the 19th century to work on King Otto’s palace, they created homes reminiscent of their homeland.

Why it’s unique: Whitewashed cubic houses, impossibly narrow alleys, vibrant bougainvillea, and sleepy cats create an atmosphere of serene timelessness. It’s an oasis of calm that feels a world away from the city’s hustle and bustle, despite being just steps from the tourist throng.

What to do: Wander aimlessly. Get wonderfully lost. Discover hidden churches, admire the unique architecture, and soak in the tranquil ambience. It’s a photographer’s dream and a perfect spot for quiet contemplation.

Pro Tip: Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds and catch the best light. Allow yourself to simply be rather than rushing through.

2. Embrace the Bohemian Heart of Exarchia

For a taste of Athens’ alternative, intellectual, and slightly rebellious spirit, head to Exarchia. This neighbourhood is a vibrant hub of students, artists, and activists, known for its lively squares, independent bookstores, vintage shops, and some of the city’s most striking street art.

Why it’s unique: Exarchia offers a raw, unfiltered view of contemporary Athenian life. It’s a place of passionate debate, political murals, and a strong sense of community. It’s not sanitised for tourists; it’s authentic, edgy, and exhilarating.

What to do: Explore the captivating street art, grab a coffee at one of the bustling cafes on Exarchia Square, browse the unique bookstores (many with English sections), or catch a live music performance in a local bar. The open-air cinema, Cine Vox, is also a summer highlight.

Pro Tip: While generally safe during the day, be aware of your surroundings, especially at night. It’s a place to observe and soak in the atmosphere respectfully, rather than overtly act like a tourist.

3. Savour the Culinary & Cultural Delights of Pangrati

Just a stone’s throw from the Panathenaic Stadium (the site of the first modern Olympic Games), but much less explored by visitors, lies Pangrati. This charming, upscale residential neighbourhood is a true Athenian gem, celebrated for its fantastic food scene, stylish boutiques, and relaxed, local vibe.

Why it’s unique: Pangrati is where Athenians go to eat, drink, and socialise. You’ll find traditional tavernas serving authentic Greek dishes alongside trendy cafes, wine bars, and gourmet restaurants. It’s less about ancient ruins and more about experiencing daily Athenian life.

What to do: Embark on a self-guided food tour, hopping from ouzeri (meze bar) to taverna for delicious local specialities. Visit the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art for a dose of modern culture, or simply enjoy a leisurely coffee and watch the world go by in one of its leafy squares.

Pro Tip: Don’t miss the chance to try a koulouri (sesame bread ring) from a street vendor or indulge in a traditional bougatsa (custard-filled pastry) for breakfast.

4. Unwind by the Athenian Riviera & Lake Vouliagmeni

Who knew Athens had a stunning coastline easily accessible from the city centre? Escape the urban heat and discover the Athenian Riviera, a beautiful stretch of coastline dotted with beaches, marinas, and charming seaside towns. A particular highlight is Lake Vouliagmeni.

Why it’s unique: This natural thermal lake, nestled in a breathtaking setting, is a hidden wellness oasis. Its brackish waters are constantly refreshed by both the sea and underground thermal springs, maintaining a year-round temperature of 22-29°C (71-84°F). It’s home to natural fish spa therapies and is rich in minerals.

What to do: Swim in the therapeutic waters of Lake Vouliagmeni, relax on the sunbeds, or enjoy a coffee with a view. Further along the Riviera, explore the chic beaches of Glyfada or enjoy fresh seafood at a coastal taverna.

Pro Tip: Take the tram (T6 from Syntagma Square), which runs along the coast, offering scenic views and easy access to various spots along the Riviera. It’s a fantastic half or full-day escape.

5. Embark on a Street Art Safari in Metaxourgeio & Kerameikos

While Exarchia offers a glimpse, the neighbourhoods of Metaxourgeio and Kerameikos are increasingly becoming an open-air gallery showcasing some of Athens’ most powerful and poignant street art. These areas, once neglected, are undergoing a renaissance, with art playing a significant role in their transformation.

Why it’s unique: Beyond mere graffiti, you’ll discover huge, intricate murals by renowned Greek and international artists that tell stories, provoke thought, and add vibrant colour to the urban landscape. It’s a dynamic, ever-changing exhibition that reflects the pulse of the city.

What to do: Take a guided street art tour (many local companies offer them) to understand the history and meaning behind the pieces, or simply wander with an open mind and a camera. You’ll find works ranging from political commentary to whimsical fantasies. Afterwards, enjoy a drink in one of Metaxourgeio’s trendy bars.

Pro Tip: Don’t just look at the big pieces; pay attention to smaller, intricate stencils and tags that reveal hidden gems around every corner. Keep an eye out for commissioned works as well as more anarchic expressions.

Athens is a city that rewards the curious, the adventurous, and those willing to step a little off the beaten path. While the ancient marvels will always be its cornerstone, these five “next steps” offer a richer, more diverse, and deeply authentic immersion into the heart and soul of this incredible European capital. So, pack your bags, lace up your comfortable shoes, and prepare to discover the Athens you never knew existed!

What hidden gems have you discovered in Athens? Share your favourite “road less travelled” spots in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Monte Carlo

Beyond the Boulevard: Monte Carlo’s Hidden Gems and Next Big Adventures

Monte Carlo. The very name conjures images of glittering casinos, sleek sports cars, and the sun-drenched glamour of the French Riviera. And while the iconic Grand Prix circuit and the legendary Casino de Monte-Carlo are undeniably magnificent, the true magic of this principality often lies just a whisper off the beaten path.

For the discerning traveller, the question isn’t if there’s more to Monte Carlo, but what awaits those willing to venture a little further. So, buckle up, because we’re about to unveil the next five must-do and must-see experiences that will redefine your perception of this jewel of the Mediterranean.

1. Dive into the Depths: Exploring the Oceanographic Museum’s Hidden Aquariums

While the Oceanographic Museum is a renowned landmark, many visitors focus on its impressive exhibits and historical significance. However, venture deeper into its labyrinthine halls, and you’ll discover a world teeming with vibrant marine life in its less-publicised, yet equally captivating, aquariums.

Why it’s a must-do: Imagine coming face-to-face with a mesmerising array of Mediterranean species, from schools of shimmering sardines to the majestic presence of groupers, all housed within a building perched dramatically on the cliff face. It’s an intimate encounter with the underwater world, offering a tranquil escape from the bustling streets above. Seek out the specialised tanks showcasing the fascinating biodiversity of the local waters – it’s a surprisingly serene and educational experience.

2. Ascend to Serenity: A Hike to the Jardin S an Martin and its Panoramic Vistas

Most tourists flock to the Prince’s Palace for the Changing of the Guard, but a short, pleasant stroll away lies the serene Jardin Saint-Martin. This beautifully landscaped park, perched on the very edge of the Rock, offers not just respite, but breathtaking, unobstructed panoramas that often get overlooked.

Why it’s a must-do: Forget the crowded viewpoints. Here, you can wander amongst fragrant pine trees and vibrant bougainvillea, finding your own quiet bench to soak in the sweeping vistas of the harbor, the superyachts, and the distant coastline. The juxtaposition of the meticulously manicured gardens against the wild beauty of the sea is a photographer’s dream and a soul soother’s paradise. It’s the perfect spot for a leisurely picnic or simply to contemplate the grandeur of the Riviera.

3. Uncover Artistic Treasures: The Nouveau Musée National de Monaco (NMNM) in Villa Paloma and Villa Sauber

Beyond the glitz and glamour, Monte Carlo boasts a thriving contemporary art scene, often tucked away in elegant historical settings. The Nouveau Musée National de Monaco (NMNM) is comprised of two distinct villas, each offering a unique artistic experience that transcends the typical museum visit.

Why it’s a must-do: Villa Paloma, with its stunning contemporary architecture and sculpture garden, often hosts groundbreaking exhibitions by international artists. Villa Sauber, a Belle Époque townhouse, offers a more intimate setting for exploring historical collections, temporary exhibitions, and often features engaging multimedia displays. Exploring these two gems provides a deeper understanding of Monaco’s cultural fabric, showcasing a dynamic and evolving artistic identity that might surprise you.

4. Savor Local Flavors: A Culinary Journey Through the Condamine Market

While Michelin-starred restaurants are plentiful, for a true taste of Monaco’s everyday life and authentic flavours, head to the vibrant Condamine Market (Marché de la Condamine). This bustling open-air and covered market is a sensory delight, offering a glimpse into the local culinary scene.

Why it’s a must-do: Forget tourist traps; here you’ll find fresh produce, local delicacies, and a genuine community atmosphere. Sample Socca (a delicious chickpea pancake), indulge in freshly baked Fougasse, or simply grab a coffee and people-watch as locals shop for their daily ingredients. It’s an opportunity to connect with the heart of Monaco, to taste its heritage, and to discover culinary gems that are far from the tourist trail.

5. Embrace the Outdoors: A Coastal Ramble to the Exotic Garden’s Secret Trails

The Jardin Exotique is famous for its breathtaking collection of succulents and its stunning views. However, many visitors stick to the main paths. Those willing to explore a little further will discover a network of less-trafficked trails that lead to hidden grottos and offer even more secluded viewpoints.

Why it’s a must-do: Beyond the cacti and the impressive cave dwelling, these winding paths lead you through a microclimate of unique flora, offering moments of quiet contemplation amidst nature’s artistry. Discover hidden nooks with unparalleled views of the bay, and feel a sense of discovery as you navigate these less-worn routes. It’s an opportunity to experience the natural beauty of the region away from the crowds, breathing in the fragrant air and enjoying a more intimate connection with the landscape.

Monte Carlo is a destination that rewards curiosity. By venturing beyond the iconic landmarks and embracing these less-travelled paths, you’ll unlock a richer, more authentic, and ultimately, more unforgettable experience. So, pack your sense of adventure and get ready to discover a whole new side of this legendary principality.

What are your favourite “off the beaten path” spots in Monte Carlo? Share your hidden gems in the comments below!

Writing a book in 365 days – 318

Day 318

The use of flashbacks

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The Flashback Dilemma: Craft Tool or Narrative Crutch?

Ah, the flashback. That sudden warp in the narrative, pulling us from the present action into a scene from the past. For some readers, it’s a thrilling unravelling of mystery and character. For others, it’s a jarring interruption, a moment to sigh and wonder if the story will ever get back on track.

So, is the use of flashbacks good writing or bad writing? The short answer, like with most literary devices, is: it depends entirely on how it’s executed.

A flashback, by its very nature, is a pause in the forward momentum of your story. This pause can be a powerful strategic move, deepening the reader’s understanding and enriching the narrative tapestry. Or, it can be a clumsy misstep that derails the plot and tests your reader’s patience.

Let’s break down the difference between a lazily written and a well-constructed flashback.

The Pitfalls of a Lazily Written Flashback

A lazy flashback is often a symptom of one of two things: a writer struggling to convey information, or a writer avoiding present conflict.

  1. The Information Dump: This is perhaps the most common offender. The writer needs to inform the reader about a character’s past, a world detail, or a previous event, but instead of weaving it organically into the current narrative, they simply stop the action and insert a lengthy, undigested chunk of backstory.
    • How it feels to the reader: “Why am I being told this now? Does this really matter? Can we get back to what was happening?” It breaks immersion and feels like exposition masquerading as a scene.
    • Example: A character is about to face a dragon, and suddenly, we get three pages detailing their entire childhood trauma with kittens, completely unrelated to dragons or their immediate fear.
  2. Avoiding Present Conflict: Sometimes a writer introduces a flashback not because it’s crucial to the immediate scene, but because they’re unsure how to resolve or advance the current plot point. It’s a way to hit the “pause” button on a difficult scene.
    • How it feels to the reader: Frustrating. It feels like the story is treading water, or deliberately holding back for no good reason. The tension dissipates.
  3. Lacks a Clear Trigger or Purpose: A lazy flashback often appears out of nowhere, without a clear sensory trigger (a smell, a song, a phrase) or a strong narrative reason tied to the present moment. It just… happens.
  4. Telling, Not Showing: These flashbacks often recount events rather than immersing the reader in them. They summarise, rather than allow the reader to experience the past as if it were happening now.

The Art of a Well-Constructed Flashback

A well-constructed flashback is a precision tool, used sparingly and with surgical intent. It doesn’t halt the story; it deepens it, providing vital context that reshapes the reader’s understanding of the present.

Here’s what makes a flashback effective:

  1. Purpose-Driven and Relevant: Every successful flashback serves a clear, immediate purpose for the current narrative.
    • Context: It provides a crucial piece of information that makes the current events, character motivations, or mystery suddenly click into place.
    • Character Development: It reveals the origins of a character’s present fears, desires, strengths, or flaws, adding layers to their personality. Instead of telling us a character is brave, we see a past event that forged that bravery.
    • Mystery/Suspense: It offers a tantalising clue, a half-remembered moment that hints at a larger secret, building tension and propelling the reader forward to discover more.
    • Dramatic Irony: The reader gains knowledge that the present-day characters don’t have, intensifying the stakes.
  2. Seamless Integration and Clear Transitions: An excellent flashback is often triggered organically. A scent, a sound, a familiar face, a particular phrase – something in the present moment pulls the character (and the reader) back to the past. The transition should be clear, too, whether through distinct paragraph breaks, italics, or a narrative device.
  3. Concise and Focused: Like any good scene, a flashback should only include what’s absolutely necessary. It’s not an excuse for extraneous detail. It’s a snapshot, not a whole album.
  4. Impact on the Present: The most crucial element: a good flashback changes the reader’s perception of the present story. When the flashback ends, the reader should return to the main narrative with new information, a deeper emotional connection, or a shifted perspective that makes the current events more resonant. It should propel the story forward, not bog it down.
  5. Engaging as a Scene: Treat your flashback like any other critical scene. It should have its own mini-arc, vivid details, sensory descriptions, and emotional resonance. It shouldn’t feel like a summary.

Conclusion: A Tool for the Master, Not the Apprentice

Flashbacks are neither inherently good nor bad writing. They are a powerful, but dangerous, narrative device. In the hands of a skilled writer, they can unlock profound understanding, build unbearable tension, and imbue characters with incredible depth. In the hands of a novice, they can be a clunky, confusing obstacle.

Before you insert a flashback, ask yourself:

  • Why now? Why can’t this information be revealed through dialogue, internal thought, or action in the present?
  • What vital purpose does this serve for the current story?
  • Will it clarify or confuse?
  • Will it deepen character or merely delay plot?

If you can answer these questions with conviction, then by all means, employ the flashback. Just ensure it’s a finely crafted key, not a blunt instrument, to unlock the true potential of your story.

What are your thoughts on flashbacks? Do you have a favourite example of a story that uses them masterfully, or one that fumbled the ball? Share your insights in the comments below!