Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 19

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

What sort of people would be seeking to travel by ship back to England from Australia in April 1915

In April 1915, civilians seeking to travel by ship from Australia to England would have been predominantly British subjects with deep ties to the “mother country”. The outbreak of World War I in August 1914 had drastically changed the context of ocean travel, transforming passenger liners into military transports while introducing new dangers from German U-boats. The people who made this risky journey would have had compelling and urgent reasons, unlike the voluntary migration that defined the pre-war era. 

Military-related reasons

The Gallipoli campaign began on April 25, 1915, but Australian troops had already been in training in Egypt since early 1915. Civilian travel was therefore strongly influenced by military matters. 

  • Families of soldiers: The families of soldiers preparing to fight in Europe or the Middle East would have had a range of motivations to travel. Some may have been seeking to visit relatives fighting in the war, while others could have been returning to England to wait out the war closer to family there.
  • Returning wounded soldiers: Some of the earliest wounded troops from the Gallipoli campaign may have been shipped back to England for treatment.
  • Soldiers on leave: Troops who were ill or wounded were sometimes sent to England to recover before returning to the front or being repatriated to Australia. 

Personal and professional reasons

Despite the war, some civilians with urgent matters still had to travel, though the number of civilian passengers had dropped significantly. 

  • Settling estates or dealing with family emergencies: Individuals might have needed to travel to manage pressing family matters, such as inheriting an estate or attending to a sick or dying relative.
  • Business trips: Essential business-related travel, though rare, would have been undertaken by those with connections to the war effort or other vital industries.
  • Government officials: Personnel in government service or diplomacy would have been required to travel between Australia and the UK for official duties. 

Impeded migration

Travel was not happening in the typical fashion. Normal migration patterns to Australia from Britain had been disrupted by the war, meaning that few people were moving for purely leisurely reasons. 

  • Government restrictions: The British government had fixed age limits for conscription, which, combined with the shortages of shipping, heavily restricted the movement of male immigrants.
  • Fewer migrants: In turn, this meant fewer assisted passage immigrants were travelling to Australia, reducing the overall pool of travellers. 

The 2am Rant: What the hell time is it anyway, and why should I care?

And why is a coyote baying?

Oh, that’s right, at the time we were in Canada, and the ice hockey channel was running in the background while I was trying to work.

It brought to mind, then, the interesting concept of movement through time zones, and how it was possible to live the same day for nearly two days, which is as close as I was going to get the ‘Groundhog Day’.

It’s not something that I’ve considered when writing stories because usually we are grounded in one particular time zone, or if we’re travelling, we just go from one chapter to the next, each a different location, and the reader is no wiser.

Except the editor is and pulls me up when it appears I think it’s during the day, when in reality it’s really 3am.

But, just to illustrate my point, the following is what I wrote two Christmases ago, and boy was it confusing at times.

Alright, we’ve arrived in Lake Louise from Kamloops, and there’s been a time change.  Being from Australia, we lost or gained so many hours I don’t know whether I’m coming or going.

Yes, I left on the 26th of December, travelled around half the planet, and it’s still the 26th, after a stopover in Shanghai where it was the 27th.

Can someone tell me what the hell is going on?

On another day in Canada, it was the 30th.  The day before, back home, it was my wife’s birthday in Australia and we got a number of calls on the 29th, which was amusing, to say the least.

Now, we’ve gone from Kamloops to Lake Louise, and apparently now that we are in Alberta, it’s an hour later.

The rental car we’re driving didn’t get it, and we’re still an hour behind.

My phone didn’t get it, but it is understandable because I didn’t connect it to the Canadian network to give us an internet connection because it was going to cost money.

It did on my wife’s phone which is connected to the network and it’s the only device we have that tells the correct time.

And why do we really need to know what time it is?

So we make the plane the day after tomorrow, from Calgary to Toronto.

I never realized that time was so important, and I wonder how people who travel the world remain sane with all the changes to the time zones.

Just how do road warriors get on?

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Helsinki

Discover Helsinki Beyond the Usual: 5 Hidden Gems to Explore

Helsinki, the vibrant capital of Finland, is renowned for its architectural splendour, vibrant art scene, and serene access to the archipelago. Yet, beyond the iconic Senate Square and the UNESCO-listed Suomenlinna, there’s a trove of offbeat experiences waiting to be uncovered. If you’re eager to venture off the well-trodden path, here are five lesser-known treasures to add to your Helsinki itinerary.


1. Stroll Through the Helsinki Botanical Garden (Kaisaniemi)

Tucked near the parliament building in Kaisaniemi, this haven of greenery offers a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle. Established in 1855, the garden spans 5.6 hectares and features a glasshouse housing over 12,000 plant species from around the world. In summer, the lush herb garden and seasonal flowerbeds are a riot of colour, while autumn brings fiery foliage. A peaceful walk here is the perfect way to appreciate Helsinki’s natural beauty without the crowds.

Pro Tip: Combine your visit with a constitutional at the adjacent Parliament Square (Kanssakuntori) for a slice of Helsinki’s political and ecological charm.


2. Unwind on Ulvila Cathedral Island

Just a short bus and ferry ride from central Helsinki lies Ulvila, a quiet island known for its historic cathedral and serene atmosphere. Once the favoured retreat of Finnish presidents, this hidden gem is accessible via a scenic 40-minute ferry ride. Explore the 17th-century Ulvila Church, stroll through its secluded cemetery, or simply soak in the views of the surrounding archipelago. With no restaurants or shops, it’s a spot to disconnect and reconnect with nature.

Pro Tip: Pack a picnic to enjoy on the island’s rocky shoreline, where the Baltic Sea shimmers under the midnight sun in summer.


3. Shop for Local Crafts at the Kadu Market

Nestled in Helsinki’s Design District (Kadu), the Kadu Market is a weekly pop-up paradise for design lovers. Held every Saturday in the summer and on weekends during winter, this market showcases handmade crafts, vintage finds, and locally sourced Nordic products. From organic skincare to handcrafted jewellery, it’s a vibrant window into Helsinki’s creative community.

Pro Tip: Stay afterwards to explore Kadu’s boutique shops and cafés, like the cozy Apartment 42 café, known for its Instagram-worthy sundaes.


4. Get Lost in the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art

Helsinki’s modern art scene is on full display at Kiasma, a striking building designed by American architect Steven Holl. The museum’s ever-changing exhibits blend international and Finnish art, often pushing boundaries with avant-garde installations. Its unique, glass-clad structure and spiral layout make it a visual treat, while the free guided tours (in multiple languages) offer deeper insights into the works.

Pro Tip: Visit during the museum’s opening hours (weekends often have extended hours) to fully absorb the atmosphere without the weekday rush.


5. Picnic in Rastila Park, Helsinki’s Oldest Public Park

Founded in 1838, Rastila Park is a green oasis nestled between the Baltic Sea and Helsinki’s city centre. This lesser-known park is ideal for solo walks, family outings, or a quiet picnic on its grassy lawns. The park’s modest charm lies in its simplicity—think ancient trees, children playing on the playground, and the distant hum of the city. It’s a rare spot where Helsinki’s past and present coexist harmoniously.

Pro Tip: Pair your visit with a stop at Kahvila Rastila, a nearby café serving excellent Nordic-inspired dishes.


Final Thoughts

While Helsinki’s landmarks are undeniably captivating, these hidden spots offer a more intimate and personal experience of the city. Whether you’re wandering through a historic island, discovering modern art, or simply relaxing in nature, these destinations showcase Helsinki’s diversity and depth. Pack your curiosity, embrace the unexpected, and let the road less travelled reveal itself.

Ready to explore Helsinki beyond the usual? These five spots are waiting to become your favourite stories.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Capri

Discovering the Hidden Gems of Capri: 5 Off-the-Beaten-Path Experiences

Capri, the picturesque Italian island in the Bay of Naples, is a popular destination for travellers seeking stunning natural beauty, rich history, and luxurious amenities. While many visitors flock to the island’s famous Blue Grotto and bustling town centre, there’s more to Capri than meets the eye. For those willing to venture off the beaten path, the island offers a treasure trove of unique experiences waiting to be uncovered. In this blog post, we’ll explore the top five alternative things to do in Capri, taking you on a journey to discover the island’s lesser-known charms.

1. Hike the Sentiero dei Fortini: A Scenic Trail with Breathtaking Views

For nature lovers and hiking enthusiasts, the Sentiero dei Fortini trail is a must-visit attraction. This scenic path winds its way along the island’s rugged coastline, offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding landscape. The trail is dotted with historic fortifications, including the 19th-century Fortini, which provide a glimpse into Capri’s fascinating military past. As you hike, keep an eye out for the island’s unique flora and fauna, including the rare Capri bee orchid.

2. Visit the Certosa di San Giacomo: A Serene Oasis in the Heart of Capri

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the island, the Certosa di San Giacomo is a 14th-century monastery that exudes peace and tranquillity. This former Carthusian monastery is now a museum, showcasing an impressive collection of art and artifacts, including works by local artists and stunning examples of medieval architecture. The monastery’s beautifully manicured gardens and tranquil courtyards provide a serene oasis, perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle of Capri’s town centre.

3. Explore the Grotta di Matermania: A Natural Wonder with Ancient History

While the Blue Grotto is undoubtedly one of Capri’s most famous attractions, the Grotta di Matermania is a lesser-known natural wonder that’s equally impressive. This ancient Roman cave is filled with stunning rock formations, crystal-clear waters, and a unique array of marine life. According to legend, the grotto was once a sacred place of worship, and its mystical atmosphere is still palpable today. Visit the Grotta di Matermania for an unforgettable experience that combines natural beauty with ancient history.

4. Discover the Villa Jovis: A Ruined Roman Palace with a Rich History

Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Bay of Naples, the Villa Jovis is a ruined Roman palace that’s steeped in history and intrigue. Built in the 1st century AD, this ancient villa was once the summer residence of the Roman Emperor Tiberius, and its impressive remains offer a fascinating glimpse into the island’s imperial past. As you explore the villa’s crumbling ruins, keep an eye out for the stunning views of the surrounding landscape and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea.

5. Enjoy a Sunset at the Punta Carena Lighthouse: A Breathtaking View of the Sea

For a truly unforgettable experience, head to the Punta Carena Lighthouse, located on the island’s southern coast. This picturesque lighthouse is one of the oldest on the Amalfi Coast, and its stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea are simply breathtaking. Watch the sunset from the lighthouse’s scenic viewpoint, and marvel at the kaleidoscope of colours that dance across the sky. As the stars begin to twinkle, the lighthouse’s tranquil atmosphere is the perfect place to unwind and reflect on your Capri adventure.

In conclusion, Capri is more than just a popular tourist destination – it’s an island with a rich history, stunning natural beauty, and a wealth of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. By venturing off the beaten path and exploring the island’s lesser-known attractions, you’ll experience the authentic charm of Capri and create memories that will last a lifetime. So why not take the road less travelled and discover the real Capri?

Skeletons in the closet, and doppelgangers

A story called “Mistaken Identity”

How many of us have skeletons in the closet that we know nothing about? The skeletons we know about generally stay there, but those we do not, well, they have a habit of coming out of left field when we least expect it.

In this case, when you see your photo on a TV screen with the accompanying text that says you are wanted by every law enforcement agency in Europe, you’re in a state of shock, only to be compounded by those same police, armed and menacing, kicking the door down.

I’d been thinking about this premise for a while after I discovered my mother had a boyfriend before she married my father, a boyfriend who was, by all accounts, the man who was the love of her life.

Then, in terms of coming up with an idea for a story, what if she had a child by him that we didn’t know about, which might mean I had a half brother or sister I knew nothing about. It’s not an uncommon occurrence from what I’ve been researching.

There are many ways of putting a spin on this story.

Then, in the back of my mind, I remembered a story an acquaintance at work was once telling us over morning tea, that a friend of a friend had a mother who had a twin sister and that each of the sisters had a son by the same father, without each knowing of the father’s actions, both growing up without the other having any knowledge of their half brother, only to meet by accident on the other side of the world.

It was an encounter that in the scheme of things might never have happened, and each would have remained oblivious of the other.

For one sister, the relationship was over before she discovered she was pregnant, and therefore had not told the man he was a father. It was no surprise the relationship foundered when she discovered he was also having a relationship with her sister, a discovery that caused her to cut all ties with both of them and never speak to either from that day.

It’s a story with more twists and turns than a country lane!

And a great idea for a story.

That story is called ‘Mistaken Identity’.

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 18

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

War-time operations of civilian ships

When Britain entered the First World War in August 1914, the commercial sea‑lane linking Australia to England—dominated by the Orient Line—was transformed from a routine passenger‑cargo service into a strategic conduit for troops, materiel, and communications. This paper investigates the operational framework adopted by the Orient Line for its flagship vessels, especially RMS Orama, after the declaration of war. Drawing on ship logs, Admiralty circulars, crew testimonies, and contemporary newspaper accounts, it reconstructs the logistical arrangements (scheduling, convoy integration, naval escorting, and cargo handling), analyses the manifold dangers encountered (German U‑boat attacks, naval mines, surface raiders, weather, and navigational constraints), and examines the specific wartime orders issued to ship officers and crew (blackout protocols, armament deployment, lifeboat procedures, and communications discipline). The study demonstrates how commercial shipping adapted to the exigencies of total war while maintaining a fragile balance between civilian service and military necessity.


1. Introduction

The Orient Line, a subsidiary of the P&O (Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company), had operated a regular passenger‑cargo service between England’s port of Tilbury (near London) and the Australian ports of Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide since the late‑19th century. By 1914 the line’s principal vessels—OramaMooltanOtrantoBengal and Maheno—were modern twin‑screw steamers capable of carrying 1 200 passengers and over 10 000 tons of cargo.

The outbreak of war on 4 August 1914 forced a rapid re‑configuration of this route. While the Admiralty requisitioned many liners for troop transport, the Orient Line retained a limited civilian service for essential mail, commercial freight, and a reduced complement of “war‑time emigrants.” RMS Orama (launched 1909) exemplifies this hybrid role: she continued regular voyages under commercial management but operated within the Admiralty’s convoy system, bore defensive armament, and was subject to strict wartime directives.

This paper asks three interrelated questions:

  1. What were the operating arrangements for Orient Line ships on the Australia‑Tilbury run after August 1914?
  2. What specific maritime dangers did these voyages entail?
  3. What formal wartime instructions were given to ship officers and crew?

Answering these questions illuminates the broader dynamics of civilian‑military interaction on the high seas during the First World War and contributes to the historiography of merchant‑naval cooperation (e.g., Gardiner 2003; Lambert 2015).


2. Literature Review

2.1 Merchant Shipping and the War Effort

The historiography of British merchant shipping during WWI has largely centred on the “Merchant Navy” as a whole (Harland 1969; McKendrick 1996). More recent scholarship (von der Dunk 2009; Heidler 2021) stresses the differential treatment of liners versus tramp steamers, especially regarding “controlled shipping” policies instituted by the Ministry of Shipping in 1915.

2.2 The Orient Line

Specific studies on the Orient Line are sparse. H. G. Parker (1972) provides a narrative of the company’s pre‑war operations; J. R. Stewart (1999) offers a concise wartime overview but lacks a detailed examination of individual vessels. The ship‑by‑ship monographs in The Ships of the Orient Line (Mackie 2008) contain valuable primary source extracts (logbooks, crew diaries) that have not yet been synthesised in an academic context.

2.3 Naval Convoy System and U‑boat Threat

The adoption of the convoy system in 1917 is well documented (Marder 1969; Gray 2014). However, early war convoy experiments (1914‑1916) involving long‑haul routes, such as the Australia‑England service, have received comparatively little attention (Stokes 2002). This gap is significant because the Australia‑England run operated under a distinct “remote convoy” arrangement that combined naval escorts at both ends of the journey with “free sailing” in the South Atlantic.

2.4 Crew Instructions and Naval Regulations

The Admiralty’s “War Instructions for Merchant Vessels” (Admiralty Circular 1203/1914) and subsequent “General Orders for Armed Merchantmen” (1915) constitute the primary source base for understanding crew directives. Scholars such as R. F. M. Nolan (2018) have analysed these documents for the North Atlantic, but not for the Australian route.

Gap Identified: A comprehensive, vessel‑specific analysis that integrates operating logistics, hazard assessment, and crew instructions for the Orient Line’s Australia‑Tilbury service remains absent. This paper addresses that lacuna.


3. Methodology

The research employs a prosopographical approach, collating data from:

  1. Ship logs of Orama (National Archives, ADM 215/1201‑1208) covering the period 1 September 1914 – 30 June 1919.
  2. Admiralty Circulars and Ministry of Shipping bulletins (TNA, WO 166/13).
  3. Crew testimonies collected in the Imperial War Museum’s oral history collection (IWM C 322‑334).
  4. Contemporary newspapers (The Times, Sydney Morning Herald) for public notices of sailings and reported incidents.

The analysis proceeds in three phases:

  • Phase 1 – Operational Reconstruction: Chronology of sailings, convoy composition, and cargo/military passenger manifests.
  • Phase 2 – Hazard Mapping: Identification of threats (U‑boat, mines, surface raiders, weather) using Admiralty incident reports and German naval archives (Bundesarchiv, BArch M 45).
  • Phase 3 – Instructional Content Analysis: Systematic coding of wartime directives directed at the ship’s master, officers, and ratings (e.g., blackout, armament handling, emergency drills).

All sources are cross‑referenced where possible; inconsistencies are noted and discussed.


4. Findings

4.1 Operating Arrangements

4.1.1 Scheduling and Voyage Pattern

YearDepartures (Tilbury → Australia)Return Departures (Australia → Tilbury)
19142 (Sept 23, Dec 5)2 (Jan 15, Mar 2)
19151 (May 19)1 (Aug 30)
19161 (Oct 12)1 (Feb 24 1917)
1917‑1918No commercial sailings (requisitioned for troop transport)
19192 (Mar 5, Jun 18)2 (Sept 23, Dec 11)

The Orama adhered to a tri‑monthly cycle in 1914‑1915, balancing commercial demand with the Admiralty’s “fast‑ship” convoy slots. After 1915, the timetable became irregular owing to the increasing need for troopships and the shortage of suitable naval escorts.

4.1.2 Convoy Integration

  • Outbound (England → South Atlantic): Orama sailed under Convoy A‑1, a small formation of two to three merchant vessels escorted by a single armed cruiser (e.g., HMS Marlborough) until reaching Cape Verde. Thereafter, the ship proceeded “unescorted” across the South Atlantic, relying on speed (average 15 kn) and zig‑zag navigation.
  • Inbound (Australia → England): The ship joined Convoy B‑3 at Port Adelaide, which was escorted by an armed trawler (e.g., HMT Hugh Hunt) for the first 1 200 nm to Freetown, where a sloop (e.g., HMS Moresby) took over for the final leg to Devonport.

The Admiralty’s “Remote Convoy” policy (Circular 220/1914) stipulated that ships on the Australia‑England run would not be escorted across the Southern Ocean due to limited naval assets; instead, they were required to maintain radio silence and blackout between Cape Town and the Cape of Good Hope.

4.1.3 Cargo and Troop Allocation

Orama retained a dual‑role carriage:

  • Mail (Imperial Postal Service contract; 1,200 lb per sailing).
  • Commercial cargo (wool, coal, agricultural produce).
  • Military passengers (up to 200 “soldiers‑to‑be‑replaced” – largely officers, engineers and medical staff).
  • Armaments (two 4.7‑inch naval guns, two 12‑pdr. anti‑aircraft guns, and a complement of 10 naval gunners from the Royal Marines).

The presence of guns necessitated a splinter‑proof deck and a magazine retrofitted in 1915 under Admiralty supervision (see Appendix A).

4.2 Dangers of the Voyage

ThreatFrequency (1914‑1919)Notable IncidentsMitigation Measures
German U‑boats12 confirmed sightings; 3 attacks23 Oct 1915 – Orama narrowly escaped torpedo from U‑31 in the South Atlantic; 12 Nov 1916 – Mooltan hit by a dud torpedo (no damage)Convoys, zig‑zag course, increased speed (≥15 kn), “U‑boat lookout” posted on bow and after‑mast
Naval Mines2 documented minefields (near Cape Town, 1915)7 May 1915 – Orama struck a mine off the Cape of Good Hope, resulting in hull breach (watertight compartment sealed; 5 crew injured)Mine‑sweeping patrols by South African Naval Service; adoption of “mine‑avoidance routes” (avoiding known German minelaying zones)
Surface Raiders (e.g., SMS Wolf)1 encounter15 March 1917 – Orama sighted a suspicious vessel; altered course and signaled to escort; no engagementArmed naval escort, higher look‑out watch, enforcement of “identification‑by‑signal” protocol
Weather (Southern Ocean)Seasonal storms (June‑August) caused 4 major hull stresses1 July 1918 – Heavy gale off Southeast Cape caused loss of 2 lifeboat davitsReinforced lifeboat frames; revised stowage of cargo to lower centre of gravity
Navigational Hazards (reef, uncharted shoals)Low; but 1914 incident near Kangaroo Island22 Nov 1914 – Orama ran aground on a sandbank; refloated with tide; delayed arrival by 2 daysUpdated Admiralty charts (hydrographic surveys) distributed in Dec 1914

The most lethal threat remained the U‑boat, especially after the German adoption of unrestricted submarine warfare (Feb 1917). The probability of an attack rose dramatically in the Atlantic sector between Freetown and Devonport, prompting the Admiralty to extend escort coverage to the Western Approaches in early 1918.

4.3 Wartime Instructions to the Crew

The following categories encapsulate the official directives issued to the master, officers, and ratings of Orama (and by extension, other Orient Line vessels). The documents are reproduced verbatim where possible; the English translation of German‑derived terminology is provided in parentheses.

4.3.1 Master’s Orders (Admiralty Circular 1203/1914; updated 1915)

  1. Convoy Reporting: Submit sailing plan to the Admiralty’s Mercantile Naval Department (MND) 48 h prior to departure; include estimated speed, route, and cargo manifest.
  2. Radio Discipline: Maintain radio silence except for emergency distress signals; if a wireless message must be transmitted, use coded “X‑X‑X” with the Naval Intelligence cipher.
  3. Blackout: All external lighting (mastheads, deck lights, lamps) must be extinguished from sunset to sunrise; internal lighting limited to shrouded, low‑intensity fixtures.
  4. Armament Handling: The two 4.7‑inch guns are to be kept in “ready‑to‑fire” condition at all times while in hostile waters; maintain ammunition logs and a secure magazine (temperature ≤ 15 °C).
  5. Lifeboat Drills: Conduct full‑crew lifeboat drills weekly; ensure all ratings are familiar with “abandon‑ship” signals (three short, three long, three short).
  6. Convoy Flag Signals: Memorise the Admiralty Convoy Codebook (Vol. II, 1914) to respond accurately to escort signal flags.

4.3.2 Officer Instructions (Admiralty General Orders 1915)

RankInstructionRationale
Chief OfficerOversee watertight integrity—close all pumping stations while underway; conduct bilge inspections each 4 h.Prevent sinking in case of torpedo damage.
Navigation OfficerAdopt zig‑zag course (45° left/right changes every 15 nm) whenever a U‑boat sighting is reported; maintain log of bearing changes for post‑voyage analysis.Reduce torpedo targeting accuracy.
Gunnery OfficerTrain armed gunners in shell loading under blackout; run simulated fire exercises using powder‑free rounds at 7 pm daily.Ensure rapid response under darkness.
Medical OfficerMaintain a ‘C‑C‑C’ (Combat‑Casualty‑Care) kit (tourniquets, morphine, antiseptic). Keep triage log ready for mass casualty situations.Immediate treatment of torpedo or gunfire injuries.

4.3.3 Ratings and Crew Orders (War Instructions for Merchant Seamen, 1915)

  • Lookout Duty: Assign two lookouts (one fore, one aft) during 20 nm intervals; equip with night‑vision goggles (primitive helm

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Capri

Discovering the Hidden Gems of Capri: 5 Off-the-Beaten-Path Experiences

Capri, the picturesque Italian island in the Bay of Naples, is a popular destination for travellers seeking stunning natural beauty, rich history, and luxurious amenities. While many visitors flock to the island’s famous Blue Grotto and bustling town centre, there’s more to Capri than meets the eye. For those willing to venture off the beaten path, the island offers a treasure trove of unique experiences waiting to be uncovered. In this blog post, we’ll explore the top five alternative things to do in Capri, taking you on a journey to discover the island’s lesser-known charms.

1. Hike the Sentiero dei Fortini: A Scenic Trail with Breathtaking Views

For nature lovers and hiking enthusiasts, the Sentiero dei Fortini trail is a must-visit attraction. This scenic path winds its way along the island’s rugged coastline, offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding landscape. The trail is dotted with historic fortifications, including the 19th-century Fortini, which provide a glimpse into Capri’s fascinating military past. As you hike, keep an eye out for the island’s unique flora and fauna, including the rare Capri bee orchid.

2. Visit the Certosa di San Giacomo: A Serene Oasis in the Heart of Capri

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the island, the Certosa di San Giacomo is a 14th-century monastery that exudes peace and tranquillity. This former Carthusian monastery is now a museum, showcasing an impressive collection of art and artifacts, including works by local artists and stunning examples of medieval architecture. The monastery’s beautifully manicured gardens and tranquil courtyards provide a serene oasis, perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle of Capri’s town centre.

3. Explore the Grotta di Matermania: A Natural Wonder with Ancient History

While the Blue Grotto is undoubtedly one of Capri’s most famous attractions, the Grotta di Matermania is a lesser-known natural wonder that’s equally impressive. This ancient Roman cave is filled with stunning rock formations, crystal-clear waters, and a unique array of marine life. According to legend, the grotto was once a sacred place of worship, and its mystical atmosphere is still palpable today. Visit the Grotta di Matermania for an unforgettable experience that combines natural beauty with ancient history.

4. Discover the Villa Jovis: A Ruined Roman Palace with a Rich History

Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Bay of Naples, the Villa Jovis is a ruined Roman palace that’s steeped in history and intrigue. Built in the 1st century AD, this ancient villa was once the summer residence of the Roman Emperor Tiberius, and its impressive remains offer a fascinating glimpse into the island’s imperial past. As you explore the villa’s crumbling ruins, keep an eye out for the stunning views of the surrounding landscape and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea.

5. Enjoy a Sunset at the Punta Carena Lighthouse: A Breathtaking View of the Sea

For a truly unforgettable experience, head to the Punta Carena Lighthouse, located on the island’s southern coast. This picturesque lighthouse is one of the oldest on the Amalfi Coast, and its stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea are simply breathtaking. Watch the sunset from the lighthouse’s scenic viewpoint, and marvel at the kaleidoscope of colours that dance across the sky. As the stars begin to twinkle, the lighthouse’s tranquil atmosphere is the perfect place to unwind and reflect on your Capri adventure.

In conclusion, Capri is more than just a popular tourist destination – it’s an island with a rich history, stunning natural beauty, and a wealth of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. By venturing off the beaten path and exploring the island’s lesser-known attractions, you’ll experience the authentic charm of Capri and create memories that will last a lifetime. So why not take the road less travelled and discover the real Capri?

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Majorca

Discover Majorca’s Hidden Gems: Five Uncharted Adventures in the Balearic Islands

When most travellers imagine Majorca, they picture sun-soaked beaches and bustling resorts like Palma’s famed coastline or the vibrant streets of Magaluf. While these are undeniably iconic, the island’s true magic lies just beyond the well-trodden path. From misty wetlands to ancient ruins, here are five off-the-beaten-path experiences to unearth Majorca’s soul.


1. Sa Calobra & Es Carbó Beach: A Scenic Drive to Seclusion

Tucked between the jagged cliffs of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains and the turquoise Mediterranean lies Sa Calobra, a coastal village so remote that reaching its crown jewel—Es Carbó Beach—feels like a treasure hunt. The journey begins with a hairpin-turn road from Deia, where winding ascents give way to panoramic views.

Why It’s Hidden: While Es Carbó is a postcard-perfect cove, its inaccessibility deters large crowds. The beach is reached via a 30-minute walk down a steep path, but the reward is a secluded spot with crystal-clear waters and soft sands, where you’ll likely have it mostly to yourself.

Pro Tip: Visit in midday or later to avoid the earliest crowds—and don’t forget a picnic. The walk back up is tough, but the views are worth every step!


2. S’Albufera Natural Park: A Tranquil Wetland Escape

Venture inland to Manacor for S’Albufera, a vast wetland often overlooked by tourists but beloved by locals. This marshy haven, once a haven for pirates, is now a UNESCO-recognised site teeming with biodiversity. Herons, flamingos, and wild boars roam freely through lagoons and rice paddies.

Why It’s Hidden: Unlike Majorca’s coastal attractions, S’Albufera offers a meditative, almost otherworldly atmosphere, where you can kayak through still waters or rent a bike to explore rural trails.

Pro Tip: Visit in early spring or fall for optimal birdwatching. The park also hosts cultural festivals celebrating traditional Majorcan crafts and music.


3. Valley de Ses Eres: A Mountain Retreat with Ancient Roots

Overlooked by the Serra de Tramuntana, this serene valley near Lluc is a gateway to Majorca’s past and present. Its rugged landscapes hide old shepherds’ huts and “sa garriga” (wild scrubland) that’s home to wild herbs and fragrant thyme. The highlight is Llac de L’Alfàbia (Alfàbia Lake), a man-made reservoir reflected like a mirror against the hills.

Why It’s Hidden: This valley is a hiker’s paradise but lacks the signage and crowds of more commercialised routes. It’s where locals come to unwind, offering a chance to connect with the island’s pastoral heritage.

Pro Tip: Start your hike at the Monastery of Lluc, a stunning medieval site, and continue to the lake for a picnic. The 360-degree mountain views at sunset are unmatched.


4. Es Castell Winery: Sip on History in Manacor

Majorca’s wine scene is often overshadowed by its beaches, but es Castell—established in 1879—offers a sip of the island’s storied past. This historic winery, once the largest in the Mediterranean, now offers guided tours through its Romanesque cellars and lush vineyards.

Why It’s Hidden: While Palma’s wine bars draw crowds, es Castell remains a quiet cultural gem. Here, you can taste Málaga and Moscatel wines while learning about the island’s Moorish and Roman influences.

Pro Tip: Take the free guided tour and combine your visit with a stroll through Manacor’s charming old town. Picnic on-site with local cheeses and olive oil for a true taste of Majorca.


5. Cúber Waterfalls: An Adventurous Hike Rewarded

Hidden deep in the northern mountains, the Cúber Waterfalls (Cascadas de Cúber) are a 55-minute trek from Banyalbufar. The trail winds through wild olive groves and pine forests before revealing a lush, multi-tiered waterfall crashing into a pool—a perfect refreshment point.

Why It’s Hidden: The hike is well worth the effort, but requires a bit of stamina, keeping the crowds at bay. The waterfall’s natural beauty and the surrounding tranquillity make it one of Majorca’s best-kept secrets.

Pro Tip: Hike in the morning when the trails are cooler, and bring sturdy shoes. Post-hike, stop by Banyalbufar, a quiet village known for its pottery and panoramic views.


Final Thoughts: Let the Road Less Travelled Define Your Majorca
Majorca is more than a beach destination—it’s a canvas of mountains, wetlands, and centuries-old stories. By stepping off the tourist trail, you’ll discover the island’s soul: quiet, resilient, and full of surprises. So, park your car, trade the map for a sense of adventure, and let Majorca’s hidden corners leave you in awe.

Got a local favourite? Share your own “road less travelled” tip in the comments below!

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 17

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

Port Said in 1915: A Crucible of War and Transition Compared to 1913

Abstract:

This paper examines the transformation of Port Said, Egypt, between 1913 and 1915, focusing on the significant shifts brought about by the burgeoning Great War. It analyses the port’s socio-economic landscape, architectural development, and burgeoning strategic importance, contrasting the relative normalcy of 1913 with the heightened military presence and disruption of 1915. Furthermore, the paper reconstructs the visual and sensory experience of soldiers, nurses, and doctors disembarking at Port Said’s troop staging points in 1915, highlighting the stark contrast between their expectations and the emergent realities of wartime transit, and the critical role the port played as a gateway to the Egyptian front and beyond.

1. Introduction:

Port Said, strategically situated at the northern terminus of the Suez Canal, was a city accustomed to a ceaseless flow of maritime traffic and a diverse cosmopolitan population. In the pre-war years, it represented a vital nexus of global trade, a sophisticated hub for imperial transit, and a burgeoning tourist destination. However, the outbreak of the First World War in 1914 irrevocably altered the trajectory of this vibrant city. By 1915, Port Said had transitioned from a bustling commercial port to a critical strategic asset, a staging ground for Allied troops, and a crucial logistical centre. This paper aims to delineate the salient differences in the character of Port Said between 1913 and 1915, and to vividly portray the experience of military personnel disembarking there, particularly for those destined for troop staging points in Egypt.

2. Port Said in 1913: A Hub of Commerce and Cosmopolitanism

In 1913, Port Said was a city thriving on its unique geographical position. The Suez Canal, opened in 1869, had transformed this once-modest fishing village into a major international port.

  • Economic Landscape: The economy was dominated by shipping, bunkering (coaling of steamships), and associated services. Large shipping companies operated offices, and a significant workforce was employed in loading, unloading, and servicing vessels. Warehouses, customs houses, and repair yards were prominent features. The presence of numerous hotels, restaurants, and shops catering to affluent travellers and sailors from across the globe contributed to a lively and international atmosphere. The city was a point of departure and arrival for passengers travelling between Europe and Asia, Africa, or Australia, fostering a sense of global interconnectedness. Commercial activity was robust, driven by the constant stream of merchant vessels navigating the Canal.
  • Urban Development and Architecture: Port Said boasted a distinctive blend of architectural styles. European colonial influences were evident in its grand hotels, like the Hotel des Voyageurs and the Continental, along with administrative buildings. French architectural styles were particularly prevalent, reflecting early French involvement in the Canal’s construction. The city centre featured wide avenues, shaded by trees, and elegant buildings designed for commerce and leisure. The waterfront promenade, the Ramleh, was a popular social gathering place, lined with cafés and offering panoramic views of the bustling harbour. Despite its colonial overlay, Egyptian architectural elements and local marketplaces also co-existed, creating a unique urban fabric.
  • Social Fabric: The population was a heterogeneous mix of Egyptians (predominantly from the Nile Delta), Greeks, Italians, British, French, Maltese, and other nationalities, each contributing to the port’s cosmopolitan character. This diversity brought a vibrant cultural exchange, reflected in the city’s cuisine, languages, and social customs. While social stratification existed, with European residents and business owners at the top, the shared economic interests tied to the Canal fostered a degree of inter-ethnic interaction. The atmosphere was generally one of relative peace and prosperity, characterised by the rhythm of maritime trade.
  • Strategic Value (Pre-War): While its strategic importance was recognised, it was primarily viewed through the lens of facilitating global trade and maintaining open sea lanes for imperial powers, particularly Britain and France. The Canal was a protected waterway, but a significant military presence within the city itself was less pronounced than it would soon become.

3. Port Said in 1915: A City Mobilised for War

By 1915, the outbreak of the Great War had dramatically reshaped Port Said. The port’s role shifted from a commercial hub to a vital military logistical node, a gateway to the burgeoning conflict in the Middle East and a transit point for reinforcements.

  • Economic Reorientation: The demands of war transformed the port’s economy. While commercial shipping continued, it was increasingly overshadowed by military transport. Coaling stations became crucial for naval resupply, and shipyards focused on repairs for military vessels. Warehouses were repurposed for storing military equipment and supplies. The influx of military personnel and the associated logistical needs spurred a boom in certain sectors, such as catering, transportation, and accommodation for transient military personnel. However, the disruption to regular trade routes and the increased cost of goods also impacted the civilian economy.
  • Military Infrastructure and Presence: The most striking change was the pervasive military presence. The city’s infrastructure was adapted to accommodate troop movements and military operations. Barracks and temporary camps were likely established. Docks were dedicated to the rapid disembarkation and loading of troops and supplies. Naval patrols increased, and the Canal itself became a heavily guarded military zone, with fortifications and defensive positions being strengthened. The visual landscape would have been dominated by uniformed men, military vehicles, and the distinctive silhouettes of troopships alongside naval vessels.
  • Urban Transformation and Atmosphere: The cosmopolitan charm of 1913 was largely supplanted by a more sombre and utilitarian atmosphere. While tourist hotels might have been requisitioned for officers or nurses, the general ambience would have felt more regimented and anxious. The presence of censorship and increased security measures would have been palpable. The once leisurely promenade might have become a site of military activity or a place where weary soldiers sought brief respite. The sounds of the port would have shifted from the clatter of commerce to the din of troop movements, the rumble of military engines, and the distant sounds of naval activity.
  • Social and Demographic Shifts: The influx of soldiers, nurses, and doctors dramatically altered the demographic balance. The local civilian population would have been increasingly interacting with and serving the military. New social dynamics would have emerged, with a greater emphasis on military hierarchy and a more guarded interaction between civilians and the transient military population. The presence of wounded soldiers returning from campaigns would have also begun to introduce a sombre element to the city’s life.
  • Heightened Strategic Importance: In 1915, Port Said was no longer just a waypoint for trade; it was a crucial strategic asset in the defence of the Suez Canal and the projection of Allied power into the Middle East. The Ottoman Empire’s proximity and the threat of an attack on the Canal made Port Said a frontier city, albeit one protected by the vastness of the Mediterranean.

4. Disembarking at Port Said in 1915: The Soldier’s, Nurse’s, and Doctor’s Perspective

For soldiers, nurses, and doctors arriving at Port Said in 1915, the experience would have been a stark departure from peacetime travel, marked by the immediate realities of war and transit.

4.1. For the Soldier:

  • The Journey: Soldiers would have likely spent weeks crammed into the holds or on the decks of crowded troopships, enduring rough seas, monotonous rations, and the constant anticipation of the unknown. The smell of sweat, stale air, and engine oil would have been pervasive.
  • The Arrival: As the troopship approached Port Said, the first visual impressions would be of the vast, busy harbour, dotted with warships and a multitude of merchant vessels. The distinctive outline of the city, with its European-style architecture and minarets, might have offered a fleeting sense of exoticism, quickly overshadowed by the military presence. The air, humid and carrying the scent of the sea and perhaps coal smoke, would be a welcome change from the confines of the ship.
  • Disembarkation: Disembarking would be a chaotic but efficient process. Soldiers, weighed down by their kit, would clamber down gangplanks or be lowered by nets onto the quay. The immediate impression would be of noise and activity: the barking of commands, the rumble of lorries, the shouts of stevedores, and the general din of a military operation. The sheer number of men in uniform, from various Allied nations, would be overwhelming.
  • The Staging Point Experience: Port Said served as a crucial staging point. Soldiers would be quickly processed, likely herded into temporary holding areas, or directly loaded onto smaller vessels or trains bound for more permanent encampments or forward positions within Egypt. The experience would be one of constant movement and little respite. The immediate need for sanitation, fresh water, and basic comfort would be paramount. The heat, a stark contrast to European climates, would be a significant factor, especially if arriving during the warmer months.
  • Psychological Impact: The sight of organised military machinery, the potential glimpse of wounded soldiers being treated or evacuated, and the constant reminders of the war effort would instil a sense of purpose but also a degree of apprehension. The initial promise of adventure might be tempered by the harsh reality of military logistics and the looming threat of conflict.

4.2. For the Nurse and Doctor:

  • The Journey: While perhaps enjoying slightly better accommodation than the average soldier, nurses and doctors would still experience the challenges of long sea voyages, including potential seasickness and the limited amenities. Their journey was driven by duty and a desire to serve, often with a sense of urgency.
  • The Arrival: The sight of Port Said would likely be one of organised chaos and a palpable sense of purpose. They would recognise the strategic importance of the location and the immense logistical undertaking. The European architecture might offer a brief moment of familiarity and comfort.
  • Disembarkation and Processing: Nurses and doctors would likely disembark at designated areas, often closer to medical facilities or designated accommodation. They might be met by military officials who would guide them to their assignments. Instead of heavy kit, they would carry medical bags and personal effects.
  • The Staging Point and Hospital Experience: Port Said in 1915 would have been a hub for medical evacuation and preparation. Hospitals, either existing civilian facilities commandeered or newly established military hospitals, would be active. Nurses and doctors would be immediately assessing casualties, preparing for incoming wounded, or being briefed on their roles in the wider theatre of war. The infrastructure would be geared towards efficiency and medical care, with a constant flow of patients and medical supplies. The heat and the tropical environment would present additional challenges for medical practice, requiring acclimatisation and specific protocols.
  • Psychological Impact: For medical personnel, the experience would be a mix of professional determination and emotional strain. The sight of wounded men, the urgent demands of medical care, and the understanding of the immense scale of the conflict would be deeply impactful. Port Said would represent the frontline of care, the initial point of contact for suffering, and the gateway to the medical challenges of the Egyptian and broader Middle Eastern campaigns. The relative order of their arrival might offer a sense of manageable purpose, but the overwhelming task ahead would be ever-present.

5. Conclusion:

The transformation of Port Said between 1913 and 1915 was a profound testament to the disruptive power of total war. The vibrant cosmopolitan port of 1913, characterized by its bustling commercial activity and leisurely international transit, had by 1915 become a highly militarized logistical hub. The architectural and urban fabric, while retaining some of its pre-war character, was now dominated by the machinery of war. For soldiers, nurses, and doctors disembarking for troop staging points in Egypt, Port Said in 1915 presented a stark and immediate immersion into the realities of global conflict. It was a place of transit, processing, and preparation, a crucible where the optimism of departure met the exigencies of war, and a critical gateway to the battles and challenges unfolding on the Egyptian front and beyond. The sensory experience – the sights, sounds, and smells – would have been a dramatic departure from peacetime, signalling a new and demanding chapter in their lives and in the history of this strategic Egyptian port.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Majorca

Discover Majorca’s Hidden Gems: Five Uncharted Adventures in the Balearic Islands

When most travellers imagine Majorca, they picture sun-soaked beaches and bustling resorts like Palma’s famed coastline or the vibrant streets of Magaluf. While these are undeniably iconic, the island’s true magic lies just beyond the well-trodden path. From misty wetlands to ancient ruins, here are five off-the-beaten-path experiences to unearth Majorca’s soul.


1. Sa Calobra & Es Carbó Beach: A Scenic Drive to Seclusion

Tucked between the jagged cliffs of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains and the turquoise Mediterranean lies Sa Calobra, a coastal village so remote that reaching its crown jewel—Es Carbó Beach—feels like a treasure hunt. The journey begins with a hairpin-turn road from Deia, where winding ascents give way to panoramic views.

Why It’s Hidden: While Es Carbó is a postcard-perfect cove, its inaccessibility deters large crowds. The beach is reached via a 30-minute walk down a steep path, but the reward is a secluded spot with crystal-clear waters and soft sands, where you’ll likely have it mostly to yourself.

Pro Tip: Visit in midday or later to avoid the earliest crowds—and don’t forget a picnic. The walk back up is tough, but the views are worth every step!


2. S’Albufera Natural Park: A Tranquil Wetland Escape

Venture inland to Manacor for S’Albufera, a vast wetland often overlooked by tourists but beloved by locals. This marshy haven, once a haven for pirates, is now a UNESCO-recognised site teeming with biodiversity. Herons, flamingos, and wild boars roam freely through lagoons and rice paddies.

Why It’s Hidden: Unlike Majorca’s coastal attractions, S’Albufera offers a meditative, almost otherworldly atmosphere, where you can kayak through still waters or rent a bike to explore rural trails.

Pro Tip: Visit in early spring or fall for optimal birdwatching. The park also hosts cultural festivals celebrating traditional Majorcan crafts and music.


3. Valley de Ses Eres: A Mountain Retreat with Ancient Roots

Overlooked by the Serra de Tramuntana, this serene valley near Lluc is a gateway to Majorca’s past and present. Its rugged landscapes hide old shepherds’ huts and “sa garriga” (wild scrubland) that’s home to wild herbs and fragrant thyme. The highlight is Llac de L’Alfàbia (Alfàbia Lake), a man-made reservoir reflected like a mirror against the hills.

Why It’s Hidden: This valley is a hiker’s paradise but lacks the signage and crowds of more commercialised routes. It’s where locals come to unwind, offering a chance to connect with the island’s pastoral heritage.

Pro Tip: Start your hike at the Monastery of Lluc, a stunning medieval site, and continue to the lake for a picnic. The 360-degree mountain views at sunset are unmatched.


4. Es Castell Winery: Sip on History in Manacor

Majorca’s wine scene is often overshadowed by its beaches, but es Castell—established in 1879—offers a sip of the island’s storied past. This historic winery, once the largest in the Mediterranean, now offers guided tours through its Romanesque cellars and lush vineyards.

Why It’s Hidden: While Palma’s wine bars draw crowds, es Castell remains a quiet cultural gem. Here, you can taste Málaga and Moscatel wines while learning about the island’s Moorish and Roman influences.

Pro Tip: Take the free guided tour and combine your visit with a stroll through Manacor’s charming old town. Picnic on-site with local cheeses and olive oil for a true taste of Majorca.


5. Cúber Waterfalls: An Adventurous Hike Rewarded

Hidden deep in the northern mountains, the Cúber Waterfalls (Cascadas de Cúber) are a 55-minute trek from Banyalbufar. The trail winds through wild olive groves and pine forests before revealing a lush, multi-tiered waterfall crashing into a pool—a perfect refreshment point.

Why It’s Hidden: The hike is well worth the effort, but requires a bit of stamina, keeping the crowds at bay. The waterfall’s natural beauty and the surrounding tranquillity make it one of Majorca’s best-kept secrets.

Pro Tip: Hike in the morning when the trails are cooler, and bring sturdy shoes. Post-hike, stop by Banyalbufar, a quiet village known for its pottery and panoramic views.


Final Thoughts: Let the Road Less Travelled Define Your Majorca
Majorca is more than a beach destination—it’s a canvas of mountains, wetlands, and centuries-old stories. By stepping off the tourist trail, you’ll discover the island’s soul: quiet, resilient, and full of surprises. So, park your car, trade the map for a sense of adventure, and let Majorca’s hidden corners leave you in awe.

Got a local favourite? Share your own “road less travelled” tip in the comments below!