Category: Travel

The 2am Rant: We’re out in the country

Or almost

When you venture out from the city, particularly, this city, you find yourself among the blocks that run to several acres, allotments that are ideal for keeping a horse or two.

Inner suburban living often runs to high-rise apartment blocks, with no gardens, except perhaps on the roof.

Outer suburban living runs to individual houses on allotments that are from 600 to 2,000 square meters. We have not yet gone into mass building of duplexes or terrace housing because, for the time being, we don’t have the population.

And, this is why you only have to go about 35 kilometres from the centre of the city to be able to buy acreage.

So, we are visiting, and on such a glorious day, it’s a pleasure to sit on the back verandah, spending some time soaking up the sunshine, breathing the country’s fresh air, and letting the inspiration flow into the writing.

It works.

I’ve managed to write another photograph-inspired story, number 151, which will be published on my writing blog in the next day or so.

Also being tackled will be the next episode of PI Walthensen’s second case – nearing 60.

Unfortunately, though, the inspirational location didn’t afford me a title for this new case but it will have the opening three words “A Case Of…’

The rest, I’m sure, will come as the story unfolds.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Tallinn

Beyond the Old Town: 5 Road-Less-Travelled Things to Do in Tallinn

When most travellers think of Tallinn, the image that springs to mind is of cobbled streets, medieval towers, and the fairytale charm of its UNESCO-listed Old Town. It’s no wonder—Tallinn’s historic heart is enchanting, and rightly so. But venture just beyond the postcard-perfect walls, and you’ll discover a quieter, more authentic side of Estonia’s capital—one brimming with creativity, nature, and local spirit.

If you’ve already admired the view from Toompea Hill and sipped craft beer in Town Hall Square, it’s time to stray from the beaten path. Here are five unique and lesser-known experiences that reveal the soul of Tallinn beyond the tourist trail.

1. Explore the Abandoned Military Bunkers of Nahkakivi Nature Park

Tucked away in a pine forest just 30 minutes east of the city lies Nahkakivi Nature Park, a serene yet haunting reminder of Estonia’s Soviet past. Scattered throughout the woods are dozens of abandoned military bunkers—concrete relics hidden beneath moss and ferns, remnants of Cold War paranoia.

Hiking through this tranquil forest, you’ll stumble upon camouflaged tunnels, rusting artillery platforms, and watchtowers half-swallowed by nature. It’s an eerie, atmospheric exploration that doubles as a thought-provoking history lesson. Locals come here for peace, photography, and even forest yoga—making it a perfect escape for introspective travellers.

➡️ Pro Tip: Visit in autumn when golden leaves contrast with grey concrete, or summer for lush greenery. Bring a flashlight and a sense of adventure.

2. Sip Local Brews at a Pirate-Themed Microbrewery in Kopli

Tucked into Tallinn’s industrial Kopli district—once home to a bustling shipyard—Piraat Brewery offers a quirky, offbeat experience. More than just a pub, Piraat is a cultural institution with a pirate crew (yes, they dress the part), live folk music, and beers brewed using ancient Estonian recipes.

You won’t find many tourists here—just locals laughing over tankards of smoky koduõlu (home-brew) and hearty black bread soup. The taproom feels like stepping into a cozy nautical legend, complete with anchors, maps, and a fireplace surrounded by wooden barrels.

➡️ Try This: The flagship “Piraat” ale, dark and malty, or their seasonal herbal brews infused with juniper and wild berries.

3. Wander Through the Hidden Courtyards of Kalamaja

While most visitors flock to the pastel houses of Kalamaja for photos, few venture into its network of hidden courtyards. These intimate inner spaces, tucked behind unassuming doors, are pockets of bohemian soul—filled with street art, cat cafes, independent galleries, and tiny designer boutiques.

Kalamaja, a former working-class district, has transformed into a creative enclave. Spend an hour wandering alleys like Lühike jalg and Kopli, where vintage stores, ceramic workshops, and open studios reveal the city’s artistic pulse. Don’t miss the “Suur Rämba” house—a colourful, graffiti-covered community art project.

➡️ Local Insight: Time your visit with the Kalamaja Days festival (June) when courtyards fling open their doors for guided tours and live music.

4. Take a Ferry to Aegna Island for a Wild Nature Escape

Just an hour by public ferry from the city centre lies Aegna Island—a wild, forested escape with no cars, no hotels, and no crowds. Once a Soviet military zone, Aegna is now a protected nature reserve with hiking trails winding through pine forests, WWII ruins, and overgrown observation towers.

Birdwatchers, hikers, and solitude seekers flock here for the silence and the surreal feeling of undiscovered wilderness minutes from the capital. Bring a picnic, spot deer or rare woodpeckers, and climb the island’s highest point for panoramic views of the Gulf of Finland.

➡️ How to Go: Catch the seasonal ferry from Sitsi Harbour (spring to autumn), or rent a kayak from the mainland.

5. Uncover Street Art & Urban Gentrification in Balti Jaam Market District

Forget sterile shopping malls—Tallinn’s most vibrant shopping and dining scene unfolds at Balti Jaam Market. Located in a converted 19th-century train warehouse near the city’s central train station, this former grey-market hub has blossomed into a hipster haven.

Inside, you’ll find vintage clothing stalls, farm-to-table food trucks, local design pop-ups, and cozy cafés serving Baltic rye sourdough and third-wave coffee. Graffiti covers the outer walls, and the atmosphere hums with youthful energy.

But the real secret? The surrounding streets—Lühike, Väike, and Soo—are lined with street art murals, tucked-away galleries, and micro-theatres. It’s a neighbourhood reborn, where grassroots creativity thrives just beyond the tourist radar.

➡️ Must-Do: Grab a kohuke (Estonian curd snack) from a vendor and explore the back alleys—every corner holds a surprise.

Final Thoughts: Rediscover Tallinn Off the Map

Tallinn’s charm isn’t confined to its medieval ramparts. By stepping into forgotten forests, abandoned fortresses, and neighbourhood courtyards, you experience the city as locals do—dynamic, layered, and quietly poetic.

So next time you’re wandering the Old Town, remember: adventure waits just around the corner. Whether you’re chasing Soviet ghosts in the woods or sipping pirate ale under candlelight, the road less travelled in Tallinn always leads somewhere unforgettable.

📍 Pack your curiosity—and maybe a flashlight. The real Tallinn is waiting.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Stockholm

Beyond the Beaten Path: 5 Hidden Gems to Discover in Stockholm

Stockholm is a city that effortlessly blends old-world charm with modern innovation. While most visitors flock to iconic landmarks like the Royal Palace, Gamla Stan, and the Vasa Museum, there’s an entirely different side of the city waiting to be explored — one that reveals intimate neighbourhoods, local rituals, and quiet corners tucked away from the tourist trail.

If you’ve already climbed the usual sightseeing checklist — or if you simply prefer a more authentic, off-the-beaten-path adventure — here are five lesser-known experiences that offer a fresh perspective on Sweden’s capital.

1. Wander the Abandoned Beauty of Fårö Island (Just Beyond the City)

While technically not in Stockholm, Fårö — a quiet island in the Baltic Sea just a short ferry ride from the mainland — feels like stepping into a Nordic fairytale. Made famous by filmmaker Ingmar Bergman, who lived and worked here, Fårö is a tranquil mosaic of windswept beaches, ancient stone forts, and dramatic limestone caves.

Most travellers focus on Gotland’s main island, Visby, but Fårö remains relatively untouched. Rent a bicycle and explore the Fogelhushamnen nature reserve, where jagged alvar plains meet the sea. Have lunch at Högklint, a café with panoramic ocean views, and time your visit with the spring lambing season to see the island come alive. It’s a poetic detour that feels worlds away from urban life, yet is easily reachable via a day trip.

Pro tip: Combine with a stop in Ljugarn, a charming fishing village on Gotland’s northeastern coast.

2. Get Lost in the Graffiti Labyrinths of Tantolunden Tunnel

Tucked beneath a busy overpass in Södermalm lies one of Stockholm’s best-kept secrets — the Tantolunden graffiti tunnel. Unlike the curated street art of other cities, this underground corridor is a constantly evolving canvas of colour, emotion, and political commentary.

Spray-painted by local artists and rebellious youth, the tunnel pulses with raw creativity. It’s especially stunning during winter when the soft glow of streetlights reflects off icy walls, illuminating vibrant murals of wolves, goddesses, and dystopian visions.

Take the tunnel as a starting point and continue your urban exploration into nearby Hornsgatan, lined with independent boutiques, vinyl shops, and hidden cafés like Kafé Döbling, where locals sip fika in cozy nooks.

3. Soak in the Silence at Djurgårdsbrunn Canal

Forget the crowds lining the shores of Nybroviken — for a truly peaceful moment on the water, head to Djurgårdsbrunn Canal. Nestled within the expansive Djurgården island, this 18th-century waterway was once used to supply fresh water to the Royal Palace.

Today, it’s a serene escape, perfect for a morning walk or a quiet picnic. The canal is flanked by lush greenery, wooden bridges, and historic pump houses, with the occasional swan gliding past. Come summer, locals bring out folding chairs and books, unwinding in near-silence.

Pack a Scandinavian-style picnic — think crispbread, pickled herring, and lingonberry juice — and enjoy a moment of mångata, the Swedish concept of the shimmering reflection of moonlight on water. You’ll likely have the entire area to yourself.

4. Explore the Secret Soviet-Era Bunker at Lovön

Did you know Stockholm has a Cold War bunker hidden beneath an unassuming forest? Located on the island of Lovön — part of the city’s national urban park — the Klara Shelter is just one of many underground military installations built during the mid-20th century to protect government officials in case of nuclear attack.

While the original bunker in central Stockholm is occasionally open for tours, the more accessible and atmospheric option is the P1 bunker at Lovön. Officially declassified and occasionally open for public visits or special exhibitions, this labyrinthine complex could house thousands and function independently for weeks.

Even if it’s closed, the surrounding area is worth visiting — pine forests, rocky shores, and the nearby Drottningholm Palace Water Theatre, a UNESCO-listed outdoor stage dating back to the 1700s that still hosts baroque operas.

Keep an eye on events by the Stockholm City Museum — they often organise rare guided bunker tours.

5. Sip Coffee in a Converted Church: Kaffistiet @ Katarina Kyrka

In the heart of Södermalm lies Katarina Church, a stark 18th-century building with panoramic views of the city. But the real treasure is downstairs, in the crypt-turned-café known as Kaffistiet.

This intimate coffeehouse, run by Katarina Parish, feels like drinking espresso in a sacred cave. Exposed stone walls, soft candlelight, and the faint scent of incense create a meditative atmosphere. They serve single-origin beans roasted in Stockholm and homemade pastries baked daily.

Sit by a small window overlooking the graveyard and listen to soft choral music drifting from above. It’s a place where spirituality and secular calm coexist — and where you can enjoy one of the city’s best cappuccinos with a side of introspection.

Bonus: Sundays often feature live acoustic music or poetry readings — check their Facebook page for schedules.

Final Thoughts: Embrace the Quiet Side of Stockholm

Stockholm’s charm doesn’t lie solely in its famous sights — it lives in the hushed echoes of ancient tunnels, the spontaneous art on forgotten walls, and the quiet rituals of daily life that unfold beyond guidebooks.

The city rewards the curious traveller. So next time you’re in Sweden’s capital, leave the map behind. Venture into the misty islands, dive into underground art, and find peace in places where history and silence speak louder than words.

Because in Stockholm, the road less travelled doesn’t just lead to discovery — it leads to soul.

Have you found your own hidden gem in Stockholm? Share your secret spots in the comments below!

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 25

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

…

WWI Troop Arrival and Orders in Egypt (April 1915)

The journey of an Englishman returning from Australia to enlist, travelling through the Suez Canal in April 1915, places him squarely within the initial stages of the British Empire’s military buildup in Egypt.

1. Nearest Port and Ship Delivery

The most likely final disembarkation port for troop transport ships arriving in Egypt via the Suez Canal in April 1915 was Alexandria.

  • Suez Canal Route: The ship would pass through the Suez Canal and enter the Mediterranean Sea via Port Said. While Port Said was a vital coaling and resupply station at the northern entrance of the Canal, it was primarily a commercial port and a critical point for Canal defence.
  • The Main Base: Alexandria was the primary, large-capacity deep-water port on the Mediterranean coast and served as the main base and logistic hub for the British, Australian, and New Zealand (ANZAC) forces in Egypt. Troops destined for the extensive training camps in the Cairo area (like Mena Camp near the Pyramids) were routinely disembarked at Alexandria due to its superior facilities for handling large numbers of men, horses, and materiel.

In short, the ship would transit the Canal at Port Said, but the soldier would be delivered to Alexandria.

2. Travel to Cairo and Training Camps

Yes, he would almost certainly need to go to Cairo first, or at least pass through the major military transit points near it, before reaching the training camps near the Pyramids (Mena Camp).

  • From Alexandria to Cairo: Upon disembarking at Alexandria, soldiers were typically immediately loaded onto troop trains for the several-hour journey inland. The main line ran directly to Cairo, where the primary base hospitals, advanced supply depots, and major military command were located.
  • Mena Camp: The famous Mena Camp, situated right next to the Giza Pyramids, was the principal training ground for incoming forces. Transportation from the Cairo railway station or a nearby transit point would be organised to move him to his specific unit in the camp.

3. Reporting with Special Orders

If the enlisted Englishman had “special orders,” his reporting procedure would be immediately elevated and separated from the standard mass of recruits.

  • Standard Procedure: A typical enlisted man would report to the Adjutant or a Regimental Sergeant Major (RSM) of the unit he was assigned to, who would be waiting at the port or the reception depot in Cairo.
  • Special Orders Procedure: A soldier with special orders would likely be carrying them in a sealed document intended for high-level staff. He would report to:
    1. The Base Commandant or Staff Officer on Arrival: The first stop would be the Base Commandant or the senior Staff Officer of the disembarkation port (Alexandria). He would present his orders and be immediately directed to the appropriate authority.
    2. General Officer Commanding (G.O.C.)’s Headquarters: His orders would likely route him directly to the General Officer Commanding, Egypt (G.O.C. Egypt), or the Staff Officer representing the GOC at GHQ (General Headquarters) in Cairo. In April 1915, the overall command in Egypt was likely under the purview of General Sir John Maxwell, who was responsible for the troops and defences of Egypt. If the special orders related to the imminent Gallipoli campaign, he might be directed to the headquarters of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) or the Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF), both of which had Staff Officers operating out of the Cairo command structure.

In summary, his path would be: Australia → Suez Canal → Disembark at Alexandria → Troop Train to Cairo → Report to GHQ Staff (or his unit in the Mena Camp area).

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Stockholm

Beyond the Beaten Path: 5 Hidden Gems to Discover in Stockholm

Stockholm is a city that effortlessly blends old-world charm with modern innovation. While most visitors flock to iconic landmarks like the Royal Palace, Gamla Stan, and the Vasa Museum, there’s an entirely different side of the city waiting to be explored — one that reveals intimate neighbourhoods, local rituals, and quiet corners tucked away from the tourist trail.

If you’ve already climbed the usual sightseeing checklist — or if you simply prefer a more authentic, off-the-beaten-path adventure — here are five lesser-known experiences that offer a fresh perspective on Sweden’s capital.

1. Wander the Abandoned Beauty of Fårö Island (Just Beyond the City)

While technically not in Stockholm, Fårö — a quiet island in the Baltic Sea just a short ferry ride from the mainland — feels like stepping into a Nordic fairytale. Made famous by filmmaker Ingmar Bergman, who lived and worked here, Fårö is a tranquil mosaic of windswept beaches, ancient stone forts, and dramatic limestone caves.

Most travellers focus on Gotland’s main island, Visby, but Fårö remains relatively untouched. Rent a bicycle and explore the Fogelhushamnen nature reserve, where jagged alvar plains meet the sea. Have lunch at Högklint, a café with panoramic ocean views, and time your visit with the spring lambing season to see the island come alive. It’s a poetic detour that feels worlds away from urban life, yet is easily reachable via a day trip.

Pro tip: Combine with a stop in Ljugarn, a charming fishing village on Gotland’s northeastern coast.

2. Get Lost in the Graffiti Labyrinths of Tantolunden Tunnel

Tucked beneath a busy overpass in Södermalm lies one of Stockholm’s best-kept secrets — the Tantolunden graffiti tunnel. Unlike the curated street art of other cities, this underground corridor is a constantly evolving canvas of colour, emotion, and political commentary.

Spray-painted by local artists and rebellious youth, the tunnel pulses with raw creativity. It’s especially stunning during winter when the soft glow of streetlights reflects off icy walls, illuminating vibrant murals of wolves, goddesses, and dystopian visions.

Take the tunnel as a starting point and continue your urban exploration into nearby Hornsgatan, lined with independent boutiques, vinyl shops, and hidden cafés like Kafé Döbling, where locals sip fika in cozy nooks.

3. Soak in the Silence at Djurgårdsbrunn Canal

Forget the crowds lining the shores of Nybroviken — for a truly peaceful moment on the water, head to Djurgårdsbrunn Canal. Nestled within the expansive Djurgården island, this 18th-century waterway was once used to supply fresh water to the Royal Palace.

Today, it’s a serene escape, perfect for a morning walk or a quiet picnic. The canal is flanked by lush greenery, wooden bridges, and historic pump houses, with the occasional swan gliding past. Come summer, locals bring out folding chairs and books, unwinding in near-silence.

Pack a Scandinavian-style picnic — think crispbread, pickled herring, and lingonberry juice — and enjoy a moment of mångata, the Swedish concept of the shimmering reflection of moonlight on water. You’ll likely have the entire area to yourself.

4. Explore the Secret Soviet-Era Bunker at Lovön

Did you know Stockholm has a Cold War bunker hidden beneath an unassuming forest? Located on the island of Lovön — part of the city’s national urban park — the Klara Shelter is just one of many underground military installations built during the mid-20th century to protect government officials in case of nuclear attack.

While the original bunker in central Stockholm is occasionally open for tours, the more accessible and atmospheric option is the P1 bunker at Lovön. Officially declassified and occasionally open for public visits or special exhibitions, this labyrinthine complex could house thousands and function independently for weeks.

Even if it’s closed, the surrounding area is worth visiting — pine forests, rocky shores, and the nearby Drottningholm Palace Water Theatre, a UNESCO-listed outdoor stage dating back to the 1700s that still hosts baroque operas.

Keep an eye on events by the Stockholm City Museum — they often organise rare guided bunker tours.

5. Sip Coffee in a Converted Church: Kaffistiet @ Katarina Kyrka

In the heart of Södermalm lies Katarina Church, a stark 18th-century building with panoramic views of the city. But the real treasure is downstairs, in the crypt-turned-café known as Kaffistiet.

This intimate coffeehouse, run by Katarina Parish, feels like drinking espresso in a sacred cave. Exposed stone walls, soft candlelight, and the faint scent of incense create a meditative atmosphere. They serve single-origin beans roasted in Stockholm and homemade pastries baked daily.

Sit by a small window overlooking the graveyard and listen to soft choral music drifting from above. It’s a place where spirituality and secular calm coexist — and where you can enjoy one of the city’s best cappuccinos with a side of introspection.

Bonus: Sundays often feature live acoustic music or poetry readings — check their Facebook page for schedules.

Final Thoughts: Embrace the Quiet Side of Stockholm

Stockholm’s charm doesn’t lie solely in its famous sights — it lives in the hushed echoes of ancient tunnels, the spontaneous art on forgotten walls, and the quiet rituals of daily life that unfold beyond guidebooks.

The city rewards the curious traveller. So next time you’re in Sweden’s capital, leave the map behind. Venture into the misty islands, dive into underground art, and find peace in places where history and silence speak louder than words.

Because in Stockholm, the road less travelled doesn’t just lead to discovery — it leads to soul.

Have you found your own hidden gem in Stockholm? Share your secret spots in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Copenhagen

Beyond Nyhavn: 5 Off‑the‑Beaten‑Path Adventures in Copenhagen

Copenhagen is famous for its pastel‑colored houses along Nyhavn, the Tivoli Gardens roller–coaster thrills, and the iconic Little Mermaid statue. But the Danish capital hides a treasure trove of quieter, quirkier experiences that most guidebooks overlook. If you’ve already checked the “must‑see” boxes and crave something a little more intimate, here are five low‑key activities that will make you feel like a true Copenhagen insider.

1. Wander the Secret Gardens of Kongens Have’s Hidden Corners

Why it’s special

Kongens Have (the King’s Garden) is the city’s oldest royal park, but most visitors stick to the manicured lawns and the open‑air museum of the Rosenborg Castle. Slip away into the lesser‑known north‑west quadrant—near the Kongens Nytorv entrance—where you’ll discover:

  • The “Rose Path” – a winding lane lined with centuries‑old climbing roses that burst into fragrance every June.
  • The Sculpted Herb Garden – a quiet patch of rosemary, thyme, and sage that once supplied the royal kitchen.
  • The 17th‑century Baroque Maze – a tiny, partially hidden maze that is rarely mentioned in tourist maps.

How to get there

Enter through the Nørreport side of the park (just a 2‑minute walk from the metro station). Follow the stone wall toward the old oak tree—look for a discreet wooden gate marked “Privat” (it’s actually public).

Insider tip

Bring a small picnic and a blanket. The garden’s north‑west nook is shaded by a canopy of linden trees, perfect for an impromptu lunch away from the crowds.

2. Sip Coffee in Kødbyen’s Underground Roasters

Why it’s special

Kødbyen (the Meatpacking District) is now a buzzing hub for nightlife, but beneath the industrial lofts lies a subterranean coffee scene that most tourists miss.

  • Coffee Collective’s “Basement Lab” – a speakeasy‑style tasting room that roasts beans on site and offers cupping sessions with the master roaster.
  • Brew Lab – an experimental bar where baristas play with Nordic‑foraged herbs, creating latte art that smells like birch and juniper.

How to get there

Take the København metro to Kongens Nytorv and walk 5 minutes east to the alleys behind the meatpacking warehouses. Look for the discreet black door with a minimalist “C” logo.

Insider tip

Book a 30‑minute “Coffee Journey” in advance (they only have a handful of slots each day). You’ll leave with a small bag of your favourite single‑origin beans, freshly sealed with the roastery’s stamp.

3. Explore the Abandoned Railway Tunnel of Vestamager

Why it’s special

The city’s modern architecture gets most of the applause, but an old freight tunnel underneath the Ørestad district remains untouched by tourists. This 1‑km stretch of rust‑colored steel and graffiti‑covered walls offers:

  • Street‑art murals by local collectives, ever‑changing and never photographed.
  • Echoes of the past – the tunnel once carried coal to the harbour; now it’s a quiet, echoey corridor perfect for urban photography.

How to get there

Take the M2 metro to Ørestad and follow the signs to “Vestre Fælled”. The tunnel entrance is a metal gate hidden behind a row of shipping containers.

Insider tip

Wear sturdy shoes and bring a flashlight. The tunnel is dim, and the floor can be uneven. The best time to visit is early morning, before the occasional joggers pass through.

4. Attend a Live‑Action Role‑Playing (LARP) Session at Dyrehaven

Why it’s special

Dyrehaven (the Deer Park) is a sprawling forest north of the city, famous for its majestic stags. Every summer, a group of dedicated Danes sets up an immersive LARP event that blends medieval fantasy with Danish folklore.

  • Costumed battles in the clearing near the historic Jægersborg palace.
  • Story‑driven quests that involve riddles hidden in ancient oak trees.
  • A chance to join at any skill level—no prior experience required.

How to get there

Take the S‑train to Klampenborg and walk 15 minutes through the park’s western side. Look for a large, red‑and‑black banner near the “Kongens Nærhed” clearing.

Insider tip

Bring a simple costume (a cloak or a tunic works fine) and a reusable water bottle. The events run from 2 pm to sunset, and there’s always a community potluck afterwards where you can sample traditional Danish fare like rye bread with smoked fish.

5. Dive into the Micro‑Museum of Danish Design at Købmagergade 45

Why it’s special

While the Design Museum and the National Museum attract crowds, a tiny, hardly‑noticed space tucked behind a boutique on Købmagergade showcases rotating exhibitions of obscure Danish designers—think avant‑garde furniture from the 1920s, experimental ceramics, and even a collection of vintage bike accessories.

  • “The Lost Chairs” – a series of handcrafted stools made from reclaimed ship timber.
  • “Light in the Dark” – an interactive exhibit where you can rewire vintage lamps to create new lighting moods.

How to get there

Enter the building through the glass storefront; the entrance is a narrow hallway marked “Kunst & Håndværk”. Admission is free, but donations are welcome.

Insider tip

Ask the curator (usually a friendly design student) for a short, behind‑the‑scenes tour. They love sharing the stories behind each piece, many of which involve collaborations with local artisans still active today.

Bonus: Make Your Own Copenhagen Map

If you’re the type who loves charting hidden gems, grab a blank A4 sheet and plot the five spots above with a different colour for each activity. Add a tiny icon (a rose for Kongens Have, a coffee cup for Kødbyen, etc.) and you’ll have a personalised guide that no one else in the city will have.

Wrap‑Up: Why “Road‑Less‑Travelled” Matters

Travel is more than ticking boxes; it’s about the moments that surprise you—when you stumble into a secret garden, sip a coffee brewed in a basement, or hear the echo of trains long gone. Copenhagen’s polished tourist veneer makes it easy to overlook these pockets of authenticity, but with a little curiosity (and a willingness to wander off the main streets), the capital reveals a softer, more intimate side.

So next time you’re packing for a trip to Denmark’s capital, leave a few hours open on your itinerary. Follow these five off‑beat suggestions, and you’ll return home with stories that go beyond the postcard—stories that only a true Copenhagen explorer could tell.

Ready to roam the hidden corners? Share your own secret spots in the comments below, and let’s build a community of curious travellers who love the road less travelled. Happy exploring!

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 24

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

…

There are historical records and evidence that the RMS Orontes did leave Australian ports carrying passengers in April 1915. While the ship was later formally requisitioned as a troopship, it continued to operate on the Australia-UK mail and passenger service during the early part of the war, though under significantly changed conditions. 

The April 1915 voyage of the RMS Orontes 

  • Brisbane departure: The Orontes left Brisbane on April 4, 1915.
  • Adelaide stop: On April 16, 1915, the ship stopped in the Outer Harbour at Port Adelaide. An article in the newspaper The Advertiser reports that after a few hours’ stay to take on mail and some passengers, the ship continued its “homeward” voyage.
  • Passengers and purpose: The Adelaide newspaper also noted that among the passengers on this specific sailing were 22 medical men and 29 nurses headed for England, highlighting the wartime nature of the travel. 

An itinerary for the April 1915 voyage

Based on the available records, here is a likely itinerary for the RMS Orontes on its April 1915 voyage from Australia to London:

  • Early April 1915: The ship likely originated its journey in the eastern states of Australia.
  • April 4, 1915: Departed Brisbane.
  • Mid-April 1915 (before April 16): Departed from Sydney and Melbourne.
  • April 16, 1915: Made a brief stop at Adelaide’s Outer Harbour to take on mail and some passengers before continuing on.
  • Late April 1915: Called at Fremantle, as was standard for the UK-Australia route. In March 1915, the Orontes had stopped at Fremantle, suggesting it was part of its regular route.
  • En route via Port Said: The Orient Line’s Australia route, which the Orontes served, travelled via the Suez Canal and Port Said. A stop here was standard for fueling and logistics, and it also put the vessel in the heart of a war zone, increasing the danger of the journey.
  • Mid-May 1915: The ship would have continued its journey through the Mediterranean and around the Iberian Peninsula to its final destination in London. 

Key takeaway

While the voyage was not under a formal military requisition like later in the war, the circumstances were profoundly shaped by World War I. Travel was far from routine, with a heavy emphasis on essential service and mail delivery. The presence of medical personnel bound for England highlights the military undertones of even seemingly “civilian” voyages during this period. 

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Copenhagen

Beyond Nyhavn: 5 Off‑the‑Beaten‑Path Adventures in Copenhagen

Copenhagen is famous for its pastel‑colored houses along Nyhavn, the Tivoli Gardens roller–coaster thrills, and the iconic Little Mermaid statue. But the Danish capital hides a treasure trove of quieter, quirkier experiences that most guidebooks overlook. If you’ve already checked the “must‑see” boxes and crave something a little more intimate, here are five low‑key activities that will make you feel like a true Copenhagen insider.

1. Wander the Secret Gardens of Kongens Have’s Hidden Corners

Why it’s special

Kongens Have (the King’s Garden) is the city’s oldest royal park, but most visitors stick to the manicured lawns and the open‑air museum of the Rosenborg Castle. Slip away into the lesser‑known north‑west quadrant—near the Kongens Nytorv entrance—where you’ll discover:

  • The “Rose Path” – a winding lane lined with centuries‑old climbing roses that burst into fragrance every June.
  • The Sculpted Herb Garden – a quiet patch of rosemary, thyme, and sage that once supplied the royal kitchen.
  • The 17th‑century Baroque Maze – a tiny, partially hidden maze that is rarely mentioned in tourist maps.

How to get there

Enter through the Nørreport side of the park (just a 2‑minute walk from the metro station). Follow the stone wall toward the old oak tree—look for a discreet wooden gate marked “Privat” (it’s actually public).

Insider tip

Bring a small picnic and a blanket. The garden’s north‑west nook is shaded by a canopy of linden trees, perfect for an impromptu lunch away from the crowds.

2. Sip Coffee in Kødbyen’s Underground Roasters

Why it’s special

Kødbyen (the Meatpacking District) is now a buzzing hub for nightlife, but beneath the industrial lofts lies a subterranean coffee scene that most tourists miss.

  • Coffee Collective’s “Basement Lab” – a speakeasy‑style tasting room that roasts beans on site and offers cupping sessions with the master roaster.
  • Brew Lab – an experimental bar where baristas play with Nordic‑foraged herbs, creating latte art that smells like birch and juniper.

How to get there

Take the København metro to Kongens Nytorv and walk 5 minutes east to the alleys behind the meatpacking warehouses. Look for the discreet black door with a minimalist “C” logo.

Insider tip

Book a 30‑minute “Coffee Journey” in advance (they only have a handful of slots each day). You’ll leave with a small bag of your favourite single‑origin beans, freshly sealed with the roastery’s stamp.

3. Explore the Abandoned Railway Tunnel of Vestamager

Why it’s special

The city’s modern architecture gets most of the applause, but an old freight tunnel underneath the Ørestad district remains untouched by tourists. This 1‑km stretch of rust‑colored steel and graffiti‑covered walls offers:

  • Street‑art murals by local collectives, ever‑changing and never photographed.
  • Echoes of the past – the tunnel once carried coal to the harbour; now it’s a quiet, echoey corridor perfect for urban photography.

How to get there

Take the M2 metro to Ørestad and follow the signs to “Vestre Fælled”. The tunnel entrance is a metal gate hidden behind a row of shipping containers.

Insider tip

Wear sturdy shoes and bring a flashlight. The tunnel is dim, and the floor can be uneven. The best time to visit is early morning, before the occasional joggers pass through.

4. Attend a Live‑Action Role‑Playing (LARP) Session at Dyrehaven

Why it’s special

Dyrehaven (the Deer Park) is a sprawling forest north of the city, famous for its majestic stags. Every summer, a group of dedicated Danes sets up an immersive LARP event that blends medieval fantasy with Danish folklore.

  • Costumed battles in the clearing near the historic Jægersborg palace.
  • Story‑driven quests that involve riddles hidden in ancient oak trees.
  • A chance to join at any skill level—no prior experience required.

How to get there

Take the S‑train to Klampenborg and walk 15 minutes through the park’s western side. Look for a large, red‑and‑black banner near the “Kongens Nærhed” clearing.

Insider tip

Bring a simple costume (a cloak or a tunic works fine) and a reusable water bottle. The events run from 2 pm to sunset, and there’s always a community potluck afterwards where you can sample traditional Danish fare like rye bread with smoked fish.

5. Dive into the Micro‑Museum of Danish Design at Købmagergade 45

Why it’s special

While the Design Museum and the National Museum attract crowds, a tiny, hardly‑noticed space tucked behind a boutique on Købmagergade showcases rotating exhibitions of obscure Danish designers—think avant‑garde furniture from the 1920s, experimental ceramics, and even a collection of vintage bike accessories.

  • “The Lost Chairs” – a series of handcrafted stools made from reclaimed ship timber.
  • “Light in the Dark” – an interactive exhibit where you can rewire vintage lamps to create new lighting moods.

How to get there

Enter the building through the glass storefront; the entrance is a narrow hallway marked “Kunst & Håndværk”. Admission is free, but donations are welcome.

Insider tip

Ask the curator (usually a friendly design student) for a short, behind‑the‑scenes tour. They love sharing the stories behind each piece, many of which involve collaborations with local artisans still active today.

Bonus: Make Your Own Copenhagen Map

If you’re the type who loves charting hidden gems, grab a blank A4 sheet and plot the five spots above with a different colour for each activity. Add a tiny icon (a rose for Kongens Have, a coffee cup for Kødbyen, etc.) and you’ll have a personalised guide that no one else in the city will have.

Wrap‑Up: Why “Road‑Less‑Travelled” Matters

Travel is more than ticking boxes; it’s about the moments that surprise you—when you stumble into a secret garden, sip a coffee brewed in a basement, or hear the echo of trains long gone. Copenhagen’s polished tourist veneer makes it easy to overlook these pockets of authenticity, but with a little curiosity (and a willingness to wander off the main streets), the capital reveals a softer, more intimate side.

So next time you’re packing for a trip to Denmark’s capital, leave a few hours open on your itinerary. Follow these five off‑beat suggestions, and you’ll return home with stories that go beyond the postcard—stories that only a true Copenhagen explorer could tell.

Ready to roam the hidden corners? Share your own secret spots in the comments below, and let’s build a community of curious travellers who love the road less travelled. Happy exploring!

What I learned about writing – Simple outings can provide insights

Today we have been delving into the past in a way that makes history interesting.

Also, it’s another way to get young children to take an interest in the past, seeing that is often very difficult to part them from their iPad, smartphones and computer games.

It is part of a weekend devoted to history.

First up is a ride on an old steam train, the engine dating back to the 1950s, as are some of the carriages. Now, for someone like me who is only two years younger, it doesn’t seem that old, but to them, it’s a relic.

And for the youngest of our granddaughters who tells me that this will be her first ride on a train, any train, it’s going to be vastly different from her next ride on a train.

I don’t think it went faster than about 30, whether that’s miles an hour or kilometres, so we had time to take in the bushland, the river crossings and the smell of the coal-generated smoke.

And the biggest treat was for them to climb up into the engine cabin to see who drives it, and how it all works.

I try to tell them this is a far cry from the 300kph bullet trains in China that we recently travelled on. This ride was rattly, noisy, and we were barely able to sit still, whereas on the bullet trains you hardly knew you were moving and was so smooth and silent you didn’t know you were moving until you looked out the window.

Tomorrow we’re going to a historical township, built out of digging for gold in the area. It will be of significance to the elder granddaughter as she is working on a project on Eureka, where there was a watershed between the miners and the authorities.

History, in my opinion, cannot be taught entirely by books, there must be visual and active participation in simulated events for them to get a better understanding. That, and then writing about it in the way historical fiction often brings moments in history alive.

We are all looking forward to tomorrow!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – San Marino

Discovering the Hidden Gems of San Marino: 5 Off-the-Beaten-Path Experiences

Tucked away in the Apennine Mountains, San Marino is a tiny, independent republic that’s often overlooked by travellers flocking to more popular Italian destinations. However, this charming microstate has a wealth of secrets waiting to be uncovered by intrepid explorers. While many visitors flock to the capital city’s historic centre and the iconic Three Towers, there’s a world of adventure and discovery to be had on the road less travelled. In this blog post, we’ll delve into the top five alternative things to do in San Marino, taking you off the beaten path and into the heart of this enchanting country.

1. Explore the scenic trails of Monte Titano

San Marino’s rugged landscape is perfect for hiking and trekking, with numerous trails that crisscross the country. One of the most breathtaking routes is the Sentiero delle Panoremi, which winds its way around the base of Monte Titano, the country’s highest peak. This moderately challenging hike offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside, as well as the chance to spot local wildlife, such as deer and wild boar. For a more leisurely stroll, try the Sentiero della Rocca, which takes you through a picturesque valley and offers breathtaking vistas of the valley below.

2. Visit the quirky Museum of Curiosities

Tucked away in a quiet alleyway in the capital city, the Museum of Curiosities (Museo delle Cere) is a bizarre and fascinating attraction that’s sure to delight. This quirky museum is home to a vast collection of wax sculptures, including historical figures, mythical creatures, and even a few San Marino legends. With its eclectic mix of art, history, and humour, the Museum of Curiosities is a must-visit for anyone looking to experience the unique culture of San Marino.

3. Sample local wines at a family-run vineyard

San Marino is renowned for its excellent wines, particularly its white wines, which are made from the Verdicchio grape. To experience the best of San Marino’s viticulture, head to a family-run vineyard, such as the Azienda Agricola Sassina or the Cantina di San Marino. Here, you can take a guided tour of the vineyards, learn about the wine-making process, and sample some of the region’s finest vintages. Many vineyards also offer delicious local cuisine, including cheese, cured meats, and homemade pasta.

4. Discover the medieval charm of Fiorentino

Just a short drive from the capital city, the medieval town of Fiorentino is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. This picturesque village is filled with narrow cobblestone streets, quaint piazzas, and historic buildings, including a stunning 14th-century church. Visitors can explore the town’s charming centre, visit the local museum, and enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the town’s family-run trattorias. For a truly immersive experience, try visiting Fiorentino during one of its many festivals, such as the Festa della Madonna della Pietà in September.

5. Take a scenic drive along the Strada del Castello

For a truly unique perspective on San Marino, take a drive along the Strada del Castello, a scenic road that winds its way along the country’s rugged coastline. This stunning route offers breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea, as well as the chance to explore some of San Marino’s most picturesque towns and villages. Along the way, be sure to stop at the Castello di Fiorentino, a medieval fortress that offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. For a thrilling experience, try driving the Strada del Castello at sunset, when the sky is painted with hues of pink and gold.

In conclusion, San Marino is a country that’s full of surprises, from its stunning natural beauty to its quirky cultural attractions. By venturing off the beaten path, you can discover a world of hidden gems and unique experiences that will leave you with unforgettable memories of this enchanting microstate. So why not take the road less travelled and explore the secrets of San Marino? You never know what wonders you might discover.