Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Majorca

Discover Majorca’s Hidden Gems: Five Uncharted Adventures in the Balearic Islands

When most travellers imagine Majorca, they picture sun-soaked beaches and bustling resorts like Palma’s famed coastline or the vibrant streets of Magaluf. While these are undeniably iconic, the island’s true magic lies just beyond the well-trodden path. From misty wetlands to ancient ruins, here are five off-the-beaten-path experiences to unearth Majorca’s soul.


1. Sa Calobra & Es Carbó Beach: A Scenic Drive to Seclusion

Tucked between the jagged cliffs of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains and the turquoise Mediterranean lies Sa Calobra, a coastal village so remote that reaching its crown jewel—Es Carbó Beach—feels like a treasure hunt. The journey begins with a hairpin-turn road from Deia, where winding ascents give way to panoramic views.

Why It’s Hidden: While Es Carbó is a postcard-perfect cove, its inaccessibility deters large crowds. The beach is reached via a 30-minute walk down a steep path, but the reward is a secluded spot with crystal-clear waters and soft sands, where you’ll likely have it mostly to yourself.

Pro Tip: Visit in midday or later to avoid the earliest crowds—and don’t forget a picnic. The walk back up is tough, but the views are worth every step!


2. S’Albufera Natural Park: A Tranquil Wetland Escape

Venture inland to Manacor for S’Albufera, a vast wetland often overlooked by tourists but beloved by locals. This marshy haven, once a haven for pirates, is now a UNESCO-recognised site teeming with biodiversity. Herons, flamingos, and wild boars roam freely through lagoons and rice paddies.

Why It’s Hidden: Unlike Majorca’s coastal attractions, S’Albufera offers a meditative, almost otherworldly atmosphere, where you can kayak through still waters or rent a bike to explore rural trails.

Pro Tip: Visit in early spring or fall for optimal birdwatching. The park also hosts cultural festivals celebrating traditional Majorcan crafts and music.


3. Valley de Ses Eres: A Mountain Retreat with Ancient Roots

Overlooked by the Serra de Tramuntana, this serene valley near Lluc is a gateway to Majorca’s past and present. Its rugged landscapes hide old shepherds’ huts and “sa garriga” (wild scrubland) that’s home to wild herbs and fragrant thyme. The highlight is Llac de L’Alfàbia (Alfàbia Lake), a man-made reservoir reflected like a mirror against the hills.

Why It’s Hidden: This valley is a hiker’s paradise but lacks the signage and crowds of more commercialised routes. It’s where locals come to unwind, offering a chance to connect with the island’s pastoral heritage.

Pro Tip: Start your hike at the Monastery of Lluc, a stunning medieval site, and continue to the lake for a picnic. The 360-degree mountain views at sunset are unmatched.


4. Es Castell Winery: Sip on History in Manacor

Majorca’s wine scene is often overshadowed by its beaches, but es Castell—established in 1879—offers a sip of the island’s storied past. This historic winery, once the largest in the Mediterranean, now offers guided tours through its Romanesque cellars and lush vineyards.

Why It’s Hidden: While Palma’s wine bars draw crowds, es Castell remains a quiet cultural gem. Here, you can taste Málaga and Moscatel wines while learning about the island’s Moorish and Roman influences.

Pro Tip: Take the free guided tour and combine your visit with a stroll through Manacor’s charming old town. Picnic on-site with local cheeses and olive oil for a true taste of Majorca.


5. Cúber Waterfalls: An Adventurous Hike Rewarded

Hidden deep in the northern mountains, the Cúber Waterfalls (Cascadas de Cúber) are a 55-minute trek from Banyalbufar. The trail winds through wild olive groves and pine forests before revealing a lush, multi-tiered waterfall crashing into a pool—a perfect refreshment point.

Why It’s Hidden: The hike is well worth the effort, but requires a bit of stamina, keeping the crowds at bay. The waterfall’s natural beauty and the surrounding tranquillity make it one of Majorca’s best-kept secrets.

Pro Tip: Hike in the morning when the trails are cooler, and bring sturdy shoes. Post-hike, stop by Banyalbufar, a quiet village known for its pottery and panoramic views.


Final Thoughts: Let the Road Less Travelled Define Your Majorca
Majorca is more than a beach destination—it’s a canvas of mountains, wetlands, and centuries-old stories. By stepping off the tourist trail, you’ll discover the island’s soul: quiet, resilient, and full of surprises. So, park your car, trade the map for a sense of adventure, and let Majorca’s hidden corners leave you in awe.

Got a local favourite? Share your own “road less travelled” tip in the comments below!

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 17

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

Port Said in 1915: A Crucible of War and Transition Compared to 1913

Abstract:

This paper examines the transformation of Port Said, Egypt, between 1913 and 1915, focusing on the significant shifts brought about by the burgeoning Great War. It analyses the port’s socio-economic landscape, architectural development, and burgeoning strategic importance, contrasting the relative normalcy of 1913 with the heightened military presence and disruption of 1915. Furthermore, the paper reconstructs the visual and sensory experience of soldiers, nurses, and doctors disembarking at Port Said’s troop staging points in 1915, highlighting the stark contrast between their expectations and the emergent realities of wartime transit, and the critical role the port played as a gateway to the Egyptian front and beyond.

1. Introduction:

Port Said, strategically situated at the northern terminus of the Suez Canal, was a city accustomed to a ceaseless flow of maritime traffic and a diverse cosmopolitan population. In the pre-war years, it represented a vital nexus of global trade, a sophisticated hub for imperial transit, and a burgeoning tourist destination. However, the outbreak of the First World War in 1914 irrevocably altered the trajectory of this vibrant city. By 1915, Port Said had transitioned from a bustling commercial port to a critical strategic asset, a staging ground for Allied troops, and a crucial logistical centre. This paper aims to delineate the salient differences in the character of Port Said between 1913 and 1915, and to vividly portray the experience of military personnel disembarking there, particularly for those destined for troop staging points in Egypt.

2. Port Said in 1913: A Hub of Commerce and Cosmopolitanism

In 1913, Port Said was a city thriving on its unique geographical position. The Suez Canal, opened in 1869, had transformed this once-modest fishing village into a major international port.

  • Economic Landscape: The economy was dominated by shipping, bunkering (coaling of steamships), and associated services. Large shipping companies operated offices, and a significant workforce was employed in loading, unloading, and servicing vessels. Warehouses, customs houses, and repair yards were prominent features. The presence of numerous hotels, restaurants, and shops catering to affluent travellers and sailors from across the globe contributed to a lively and international atmosphere. The city was a point of departure and arrival for passengers travelling between Europe and Asia, Africa, or Australia, fostering a sense of global interconnectedness. Commercial activity was robust, driven by the constant stream of merchant vessels navigating the Canal.
  • Urban Development and Architecture: Port Said boasted a distinctive blend of architectural styles. European colonial influences were evident in its grand hotels, like the Hotel des Voyageurs and the Continental, along with administrative buildings. French architectural styles were particularly prevalent, reflecting early French involvement in the Canal’s construction. The city centre featured wide avenues, shaded by trees, and elegant buildings designed for commerce and leisure. The waterfront promenade, the Ramleh, was a popular social gathering place, lined with cafés and offering panoramic views of the bustling harbour. Despite its colonial overlay, Egyptian architectural elements and local marketplaces also co-existed, creating a unique urban fabric.
  • Social Fabric: The population was a heterogeneous mix of Egyptians (predominantly from the Nile Delta), Greeks, Italians, British, French, Maltese, and other nationalities, each contributing to the port’s cosmopolitan character. This diversity brought a vibrant cultural exchange, reflected in the city’s cuisine, languages, and social customs. While social stratification existed, with European residents and business owners at the top, the shared economic interests tied to the Canal fostered a degree of inter-ethnic interaction. The atmosphere was generally one of relative peace and prosperity, characterised by the rhythm of maritime trade.
  • Strategic Value (Pre-War): While its strategic importance was recognised, it was primarily viewed through the lens of facilitating global trade and maintaining open sea lanes for imperial powers, particularly Britain and France. The Canal was a protected waterway, but a significant military presence within the city itself was less pronounced than it would soon become.

3. Port Said in 1915: A City Mobilised for War

By 1915, the outbreak of the Great War had dramatically reshaped Port Said. The port’s role shifted from a commercial hub to a vital military logistical node, a gateway to the burgeoning conflict in the Middle East and a transit point for reinforcements.

  • Economic Reorientation: The demands of war transformed the port’s economy. While commercial shipping continued, it was increasingly overshadowed by military transport. Coaling stations became crucial for naval resupply, and shipyards focused on repairs for military vessels. Warehouses were repurposed for storing military equipment and supplies. The influx of military personnel and the associated logistical needs spurred a boom in certain sectors, such as catering, transportation, and accommodation for transient military personnel. However, the disruption to regular trade routes and the increased cost of goods also impacted the civilian economy.
  • Military Infrastructure and Presence: The most striking change was the pervasive military presence. The city’s infrastructure was adapted to accommodate troop movements and military operations. Barracks and temporary camps were likely established. Docks were dedicated to the rapid disembarkation and loading of troops and supplies. Naval patrols increased, and the Canal itself became a heavily guarded military zone, with fortifications and defensive positions being strengthened. The visual landscape would have been dominated by uniformed men, military vehicles, and the distinctive silhouettes of troopships alongside naval vessels.
  • Urban Transformation and Atmosphere: The cosmopolitan charm of 1913 was largely supplanted by a more sombre and utilitarian atmosphere. While tourist hotels might have been requisitioned for officers or nurses, the general ambience would have felt more regimented and anxious. The presence of censorship and increased security measures would have been palpable. The once leisurely promenade might have become a site of military activity or a place where weary soldiers sought brief respite. The sounds of the port would have shifted from the clatter of commerce to the din of troop movements, the rumble of military engines, and the distant sounds of naval activity.
  • Social and Demographic Shifts: The influx of soldiers, nurses, and doctors dramatically altered the demographic balance. The local civilian population would have been increasingly interacting with and serving the military. New social dynamics would have emerged, with a greater emphasis on military hierarchy and a more guarded interaction between civilians and the transient military population. The presence of wounded soldiers returning from campaigns would have also begun to introduce a sombre element to the city’s life.
  • Heightened Strategic Importance: In 1915, Port Said was no longer just a waypoint for trade; it was a crucial strategic asset in the defence of the Suez Canal and the projection of Allied power into the Middle East. The Ottoman Empire’s proximity and the threat of an attack on the Canal made Port Said a frontier city, albeit one protected by the vastness of the Mediterranean.

4. Disembarking at Port Said in 1915: The Soldier’s, Nurse’s, and Doctor’s Perspective

For soldiers, nurses, and doctors arriving at Port Said in 1915, the experience would have been a stark departure from peacetime travel, marked by the immediate realities of war and transit.

4.1. For the Soldier:

  • The Journey: Soldiers would have likely spent weeks crammed into the holds or on the decks of crowded troopships, enduring rough seas, monotonous rations, and the constant anticipation of the unknown. The smell of sweat, stale air, and engine oil would have been pervasive.
  • The Arrival: As the troopship approached Port Said, the first visual impressions would be of the vast, busy harbour, dotted with warships and a multitude of merchant vessels. The distinctive outline of the city, with its European-style architecture and minarets, might have offered a fleeting sense of exoticism, quickly overshadowed by the military presence. The air, humid and carrying the scent of the sea and perhaps coal smoke, would be a welcome change from the confines of the ship.
  • Disembarkation: Disembarking would be a chaotic but efficient process. Soldiers, weighed down by their kit, would clamber down gangplanks or be lowered by nets onto the quay. The immediate impression would be of noise and activity: the barking of commands, the rumble of lorries, the shouts of stevedores, and the general din of a military operation. The sheer number of men in uniform, from various Allied nations, would be overwhelming.
  • The Staging Point Experience: Port Said served as a crucial staging point. Soldiers would be quickly processed, likely herded into temporary holding areas, or directly loaded onto smaller vessels or trains bound for more permanent encampments or forward positions within Egypt. The experience would be one of constant movement and little respite. The immediate need for sanitation, fresh water, and basic comfort would be paramount. The heat, a stark contrast to European climates, would be a significant factor, especially if arriving during the warmer months.
  • Psychological Impact: The sight of organised military machinery, the potential glimpse of wounded soldiers being treated or evacuated, and the constant reminders of the war effort would instil a sense of purpose but also a degree of apprehension. The initial promise of adventure might be tempered by the harsh reality of military logistics and the looming threat of conflict.

4.2. For the Nurse and Doctor:

  • The Journey: While perhaps enjoying slightly better accommodation than the average soldier, nurses and doctors would still experience the challenges of long sea voyages, including potential seasickness and the limited amenities. Their journey was driven by duty and a desire to serve, often with a sense of urgency.
  • The Arrival: The sight of Port Said would likely be one of organised chaos and a palpable sense of purpose. They would recognise the strategic importance of the location and the immense logistical undertaking. The European architecture might offer a brief moment of familiarity and comfort.
  • Disembarkation and Processing: Nurses and doctors would likely disembark at designated areas, often closer to medical facilities or designated accommodation. They might be met by military officials who would guide them to their assignments. Instead of heavy kit, they would carry medical bags and personal effects.
  • The Staging Point and Hospital Experience: Port Said in 1915 would have been a hub for medical evacuation and preparation. Hospitals, either existing civilian facilities commandeered or newly established military hospitals, would be active. Nurses and doctors would be immediately assessing casualties, preparing for incoming wounded, or being briefed on their roles in the wider theatre of war. The infrastructure would be geared towards efficiency and medical care, with a constant flow of patients and medical supplies. The heat and the tropical environment would present additional challenges for medical practice, requiring acclimatisation and specific protocols.
  • Psychological Impact: For medical personnel, the experience would be a mix of professional determination and emotional strain. The sight of wounded men, the urgent demands of medical care, and the understanding of the immense scale of the conflict would be deeply impactful. Port Said would represent the frontline of care, the initial point of contact for suffering, and the gateway to the medical challenges of the Egyptian and broader Middle Eastern campaigns. The relative order of their arrival might offer a sense of manageable purpose, but the overwhelming task ahead would be ever-present.

5. Conclusion:

The transformation of Port Said between 1913 and 1915 was a profound testament to the disruptive power of total war. The vibrant cosmopolitan port of 1913, characterized by its bustling commercial activity and leisurely international transit, had by 1915 become a highly militarized logistical hub. The architectural and urban fabric, while retaining some of its pre-war character, was now dominated by the machinery of war. For soldiers, nurses, and doctors disembarking for troop staging points in Egypt, Port Said in 1915 presented a stark and immediate immersion into the realities of global conflict. It was a place of transit, processing, and preparation, a crucible where the optimism of departure met the exigencies of war, and a critical gateway to the battles and challenges unfolding on the Egyptian front and beyond. The sensory experience – the sights, sounds, and smells – would have been a dramatic departure from peacetime, signalling a new and demanding chapter in their lives and in the history of this strategic Egyptian port.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Majorca

Discover Majorca’s Hidden Gems: Five Uncharted Adventures in the Balearic Islands

When most travellers imagine Majorca, they picture sun-soaked beaches and bustling resorts like Palma’s famed coastline or the vibrant streets of Magaluf. While these are undeniably iconic, the island’s true magic lies just beyond the well-trodden path. From misty wetlands to ancient ruins, here are five off-the-beaten-path experiences to unearth Majorca’s soul.


1. Sa Calobra & Es Carbó Beach: A Scenic Drive to Seclusion

Tucked between the jagged cliffs of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains and the turquoise Mediterranean lies Sa Calobra, a coastal village so remote that reaching its crown jewel—Es Carbó Beach—feels like a treasure hunt. The journey begins with a hairpin-turn road from Deia, where winding ascents give way to panoramic views.

Why It’s Hidden: While Es Carbó is a postcard-perfect cove, its inaccessibility deters large crowds. The beach is reached via a 30-minute walk down a steep path, but the reward is a secluded spot with crystal-clear waters and soft sands, where you’ll likely have it mostly to yourself.

Pro Tip: Visit in midday or later to avoid the earliest crowds—and don’t forget a picnic. The walk back up is tough, but the views are worth every step!


2. S’Albufera Natural Park: A Tranquil Wetland Escape

Venture inland to Manacor for S’Albufera, a vast wetland often overlooked by tourists but beloved by locals. This marshy haven, once a haven for pirates, is now a UNESCO-recognised site teeming with biodiversity. Herons, flamingos, and wild boars roam freely through lagoons and rice paddies.

Why It’s Hidden: Unlike Majorca’s coastal attractions, S’Albufera offers a meditative, almost otherworldly atmosphere, where you can kayak through still waters or rent a bike to explore rural trails.

Pro Tip: Visit in early spring or fall for optimal birdwatching. The park also hosts cultural festivals celebrating traditional Majorcan crafts and music.


3. Valley de Ses Eres: A Mountain Retreat with Ancient Roots

Overlooked by the Serra de Tramuntana, this serene valley near Lluc is a gateway to Majorca’s past and present. Its rugged landscapes hide old shepherds’ huts and “sa garriga” (wild scrubland) that’s home to wild herbs and fragrant thyme. The highlight is Llac de L’Alfàbia (Alfàbia Lake), a man-made reservoir reflected like a mirror against the hills.

Why It’s Hidden: This valley is a hiker’s paradise but lacks the signage and crowds of more commercialised routes. It’s where locals come to unwind, offering a chance to connect with the island’s pastoral heritage.

Pro Tip: Start your hike at the Monastery of Lluc, a stunning medieval site, and continue to the lake for a picnic. The 360-degree mountain views at sunset are unmatched.


4. Es Castell Winery: Sip on History in Manacor

Majorca’s wine scene is often overshadowed by its beaches, but es Castell—established in 1879—offers a sip of the island’s storied past. This historic winery, once the largest in the Mediterranean, now offers guided tours through its Romanesque cellars and lush vineyards.

Why It’s Hidden: While Palma’s wine bars draw crowds, es Castell remains a quiet cultural gem. Here, you can taste Málaga and Moscatel wines while learning about the island’s Moorish and Roman influences.

Pro Tip: Take the free guided tour and combine your visit with a stroll through Manacor’s charming old town. Picnic on-site with local cheeses and olive oil for a true taste of Majorca.


5. Cúber Waterfalls: An Adventurous Hike Rewarded

Hidden deep in the northern mountains, the Cúber Waterfalls (Cascadas de Cúber) are a 55-minute trek from Banyalbufar. The trail winds through wild olive groves and pine forests before revealing a lush, multi-tiered waterfall crashing into a pool—a perfect refreshment point.

Why It’s Hidden: The hike is well worth the effort, but requires a bit of stamina, keeping the crowds at bay. The waterfall’s natural beauty and the surrounding tranquillity make it one of Majorca’s best-kept secrets.

Pro Tip: Hike in the morning when the trails are cooler, and bring sturdy shoes. Post-hike, stop by Banyalbufar, a quiet village known for its pottery and panoramic views.


Final Thoughts: Let the Road Less Travelled Define Your Majorca
Majorca is more than a beach destination—it’s a canvas of mountains, wetlands, and centuries-old stories. By stepping off the tourist trail, you’ll discover the island’s soul: quiet, resilient, and full of surprises. So, park your car, trade the map for a sense of adventure, and let Majorca’s hidden corners leave you in awe.

Got a local favourite? Share your own “road less travelled” tip in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Cyprus

Unveiling Cyprus: A Journey Along the Road Less Travelled

Cyprus, with its azure seas, ancient history, and Mediterranean charm, often draws travellers to its bustling resorts and UNESCO-listed sites. But beyond the well-trodden paths lies a lesser-known side of the island—a tapestry of hidden gems, serene landscapes, and rich cultural heritage waiting to be discovered. If you’re seeking adventure off the beaten track, here are five extraordinary experiences that will transform your Cyprus journey into an unforgettable odyssey.


1. Wander Through the Timeless Villages of Omodos

Nestled in the Troodos Mountains, Omodos is a picturesque village that feels like a step back in time. Lined with centuries-old stone houses and terraced olive groves, this UNESCO-recognised hamlet is a haven for those craving tranquillity. Known as a centre for Cypriot winemaking and olive oil production, Omodos offers a glimpse into traditional rural life. Visit the Monastery of Panagia Kanakaria, with its breathtaking 17th-century frescoes, and take a leisurely stroll through the surrounding fields. Tip: Enjoy a local wine tasting at one of the family-run wineries, and don’t miss the village’s annual olive oil festival.

Why It’s Off the Radar: While Omodos is gaining attention among locals, it remains a secret to most international travellers, making it perfect for quiet exploration.


2. Marvel at Stavros tou Athanasiou: The Church of Saint John in the Forest

Tucked between the lush forests of the Troodos Mountains, Stavros tou Athanasiou is a Byzantine gem dating back to the 10th–11th centuries. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is renowned for its stunning frescoes depicting biblical scenes with remarkable vibrancy. The church’s remote location, surrounded by pine trees and the scent of herbs, creates an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Tip: Light a candle to honour Saint John, a local tradition believed to bring blessings, and bring a picnic to savour the serene setting.

Why It’s Hidden: Nestled deep in the wilderness, it’s a 45-minute drive from Limassol, requiring a bit of commitment—exactly what adventurous travellers crave.


3. Escape to Karkarash Dam and Its Bucolic Surroundings

Just west of Nicosia, Karkarash Dam is a hidden oasis that boasts one of Cyprus’s most scenic reservoirs. Framed by olive groves and rolling hills, it’s a peaceful spot for picnics, hiking, or simply soaking in panoramic views. The nearby Ethnological Museum of Avdimou village offers a fascinating look into rural Cypriot life, with relics like old wine presses and traditional tools. Tip: Visit in the spring when wildflowers blanket the area, or in winter for birdwatching opportunities.

Why It’s Under the Radar: Unlike the island’s popular beaches, Karkarash remains a low-key destination, frequented mainly by locals.


4. Walk the Ammochostos Trail’s Valley of the Queens

Stretching across the Ammachosti mountain range, the Ammochostos Trail is a lesser-known hiking route that reveals Cyprus’s ancient past. The Valley of the Queens, part of this trail, is a mystical expanse of rock formations and tombs carved into cliffs—believed to predate even the nearby Valley of the Cyclops. As you trek, imagine the footsteps of merchants and pilgrims who once traversed this path. Tip: Start your hike at the ancient city of Golgoi near Limassol, and pack sturdy shoes—parts of the trail are rocky and unpaved.

Why It’s Secret: While the Ammochostos Trail is technically a historical route, the Valley of the Queens segment is rarely explored by tourists.


5. Discover Lara Beach: The Hidden Emerald Cove

Accessed via a 45-minute hike or a boat tour from Polis Chrysochous, Lara Beach is a secluded paradise in the Akamas Peninsula. Framed by towering cliffs, this crescent of golden sand is fringed by crystal-clear waters—a true hidden gem. The nearby Ghost Forest, a small island with stilted tree trunks rising from the sea, adds a touch of mystery to the experience. Tip: Bring a waterproof bag for your supplies and explore the surrounding coves for snorkelling or diving.

Why It’s Remote: The lack of road access means Lara Beach is one of the island’s best-kept secrets—perfect for privacy-seeking travellers.


Conclusion: Embrace the Uncharted
Cyprus is more than just its beaches and resorts—it’s a land of quiet villages, ancient trails, and natural wonders waiting to be uncovered. By straying from the well-worn paths, you’ll discover a side of the island that resonates with history, serenity, and authenticity. So pack your sense of adventure, rent a car, and let Cyprus surprise you with its hidden treasures. The road less travelled promises an unforgettable journey.

Got a favourite offbeat spot in Cyprus? Share it in the comments—we’d love to hear your discoveries!

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 16

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

The Strategic Function of the British Army in Egypt, 1915: Defence, Staging, and the Western Front Pipeline

I. Introduction: Egypt as the Strategic Nexus of the British Empire in WWI

Geopolitical and Strategic Context of Egypt (1914-1915)

At the onset of the First World War, Egypt occupied a singularly crucial position within the structure of the British Empire, primarily due to the Suez Canal. Opened in 1869, the canal was recognised as the vital artery, or the “jugular vein,” connecting the Mediterranean Sea and the Red Sea, offering the shortest possible route between Britain and its dominions in India, Asia, and East Africa.1 Maintaining control of this waterway was not merely a matter of regional security but an absolute imperative for the overall logistical integrity of the imperial war effort, ensuring the rapid transport of troops, supplies, and commercial goods to Europe.2

The military formation responsible for administering the armed forces in the region was the Force in Egypt (FiE), established in August 1914 and initially commanded by Major General Julian Byng, who was later replaced by General John Maxwell in September 1914.4 Politically, Egypt was formally declared a British Protectorate on 18 December 1914, solidifying British military control, a necessary measure following Britain and France’s declaration of war on the Ottoman Empire on 5 November 1914, and the subsequent Ottoman Sultan’s proclamation of a Jihad.3

Initial Strategic Ambiguity and the 1915 Priority Shift

In the earliest months of the war (late 1914), before the direct Ottoman threat fully materialised, the strategic value of the FiE was somewhat ambiguous. Initially, several elements of the force were considered available surplus and were sent to Europe to participate in the fighting on the Western Front.4 This early troop transfer demonstrated that the British High Command viewed the Egyptian garrison, at that time, as a potential reserve force for the main theatre of war.

However, the subsequent direct threat posed by the Ottoman Empire—which quickly materialised in February 1915 with a significant raid on the Suez Canal—instantly re-prioritised the FiE’s mandate.2 The overriding strategic imperative became the defence of the Canal, requiring a standing force of approximately 30,000 troops.4 This critical shift meant that Egypt ceased functioning as a manpower reservoir for the British Expeditionary Force (BEF). Any available troop capacity, particularly from the Dominions, was immediately diverted to the new strategic offensive aimed at neutralising the Ottoman threat: the Gallipoli Campaign. Consequently, the primary function of Egypt in the 1915 calendar year was twofold: Suez Canal defence and serving as the staging and logistical base for the Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF) destined for Gallipoli. The evidence demonstrates that Egypt was definitely not used as a primary training pipeline for fresh British (UK) soldiers destined for the Western Front during 1915.

II. The Dual Roles of Egypt in 1915: Defence and Staging

The Defence of the Suez Canal: FiE’s Primary Mandate

The Force in Egypt’s foundational objective throughout 1915 was the protection of the Suez Canal.4 Following the declaration of war against the Ottoman Empire, the security of this waterway, which prevented British Empire troops from being cut off from Europe, became paramount.2

The initial force deployed for defence, under General Maxwell, was composed largely of Imperial contingents, reflecting Britain’s global military reach and the prioritisation of UK troops for the Western Front in late 1914. Key elements included the 10th and 11th Indian Divisions, the Imperial Service Cavalry Brigade, and the Bikaner Camel Corps, supported by elements of Indian and Egyptian Army Artillery.4 This defence force totalled around 30,000 troops.5

The anticipated Ottoman offensive materialised in February 1915. Turkish forces crossed the Sinai Peninsula and attempted to breach the defences on the Canal. The British, having fortified the length of the Canal and expecting the attack, successfully repulsed the assault over two days.2 The Ottoman attack was a failure, resulting in the loss of nearly 2,000 troops, while British losses were minimal (32 killed, 130 wounded).5 Following the raid, the British strategy evolved, extending defences from the western bank to the eastern bank of the canal, a costly, manpower-intensive commitment that tied down a substantial force throughout 1915 and 1916.2

The ANZAC Training Pipeline (Confirmation of Staging Role)

Egypt’s secondary, but equally important, role in early 1915 was to serve as the training and mobilisation centre for Dominion troops intended for combat. The Australian Imperial Force (AIF) and the New Zealand Expeditionary Force (NZEF), collectively forming the ANZAC Corps, were originally intended to train in England. However, the decision was made to divert them to Egypt in December 1914, primarily because the military camps in England were overcrowded and unsuitable for housing so many men through the winter months.7

The main facility established was Mena Camp, a vast training ground situated near the Giza Pyramids, about 16 kilometres from Cairo, which housed approximately 25,000 soldiers at its peak.7 Other training areas, such as Moascar near Ismailia, were also utilised by the 1st and 2nd Australian Divisions.9 Training was arduous, six days a week, involving marching across sand dunes and deserts in full marching order, exposing troops to extremes of heat and cold.8

The nature of this training environment—desert operations and movement in arid conditions 8—was highly relevant for the impending operations in the Middle Eastern theatre (Gallipoli, and later Sinai and Palestine). This environment was fundamentally unsuitable and strategically irrelevant for preparing troops for the static, trench warfare of the Western Front, where different technical and survival skills were required. The specialised training context provided in Egypt underscores that the forces stationed there were being prepared for operations against the Ottoman Empire, confirming that Egypt was focused on the Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF) pipeline, not the British Expeditionary Force (BEF) pipeline, in 1915. Following several months of preparation, the ANZAC Corps were duly deployed to the Gallipoli Peninsula starting in April 1915.10

III. British (UK) Troops in Egypt (1915): The Gallipoli Staging Hub

Egypt as the Operational Base for the Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF)

Following the decision to open an offensive against the Ottoman Empire at Gallipoli, Egypt became the indispensable operational base for the entire campaign.13 This base provided essential logistics, handling the transit of troops and vast quantities of supplies to the Dardanelles. Furthermore, the extensive medical infrastructure, including hospitals like the 2nd Australian General Hospital established at Mena House, received and treated the sick and wounded evacuated from the peninsula.9

Deployment of UK Regular and Territorial Divisions (The 1915 Flow)

The UK military units that passed through Egypt during 1915 were universally channeled toward the Gallipoli theatre, reinforcing the conclusion that Egypt’s function was MEF-specific in that year.

  1. The 29th Division (Regular Army): This division, often referred to as the ‘Immortal’ division, was an elite force assembled in England from regular battalions recalled from garrisons worldwide.14 It was integral to the initial offensive. The 29th Division sailed via Egypt in March 1915, arriving at the peninsula to conduct the critical landing at Cape Helles on 25 April 1915.12 Their time in Egypt was brief—a logistical staging operation—not a sustained training period specifically designed for future deployment to the Western Front.17
  2. Territorial Force (TF) Reinforcements: As the Gallipoli campaign devolved into attritional deadlock, UK Territorial Force units were deployed. The 53rd (Welsh) Infantry Division, mobilized in England and subsequently numbered the 53rd (Welsh) Division 18, embarked from Devonport between 14 and 19 July 1915.19 They sailed via Alexandria and landed at Suvla Bay on 9 August 1915.18 The commitment of this large UK formation to the MEF, routing through Egypt, demonstrates a key strategic priority of 1915: dedicating UK manpower to the secondary, Ottoman theatre.22

This commitment occurred despite the precarious manpower situation facing the British Army overall in 1915, which saw the British Expeditionary Force (BEF) overstretched and struggling to replace losses from a system that was slowly training and equipping millions of volunteers (Kitchener’s New Armies).23 The fact that UK territorial and regular units were funnelled into the MEF through Egypt confirms that the movement of UK troops via Egypt was solely focused on supporting the eastern campaign during that year.

IV. The Western Front Training Question: Analysing the BEF Pipeline

The Conventional BEF Training Structure (The UK/France Model)

The training regimen for British soldiers destined for the Western Front (the BEF) in 1915 followed a standardised and logical geographical path. Initial basic training for volunteers and Territorial reinforcements was conducted extensively across the United Kingdom, often overwhelming the existing barracks and necessitating the conversion of thousands of public buildings into temporary training centres.24 Once this fundamental training was completed, advanced instruction, acclimatisation, and specialised training specific to trench warfare were established in the vast rear areas of France and Belgium.24 This system was designed to be as direct and efficient as possible, maintaining a continuous flow of manpower to the BEF, which reached a size of 247,400 fighting men by 1915.26

Assessment: Why Egypt Was Not a BEF Training Base in 1915

The logistical and strategic realities of 1915 argue strongly against the idea that Egypt was used for training UK troops specifically for France.

First, using Egypt as a training base for the BEF would have represented a highly inefficient and circuitous logistical route. Troops recruited in the UK or the Dominions would have been shipped thousands of kilometres to Egypt, trained in an inappropriate desert environment, and then shipped thousands of kilometres back across the Mediterranean to France. This would have bypassed the established, highly efficient, and industrialised pipeline running directly from UK ports to the Western Front.27

Second, the manpower in Egypt was already fundamentally tied to theatre-specific objectives. The defence of the Canal and the support of the massive Gallipoli operation required a standing garrison and extensive logistical support staff.13 Diverting personnel or resources to train fresh BEF recruits would have compromised the core missions in the Middle East.

Therefore, the historical record indicates that UK military authorities did not establish specialised training camps for British troops destined for the Western Front in Egypt during 1915. The British units that staged there were either brief transients on their way to Gallipoli (e.g., the 29th and 53rd Divisions) or veteran units resting and recuperating, preparing for deployment to the secondary campaign.

The dedication of Egypt as the primary logistical and staging base for the MEF, handling all supplies, sick, and wounded for Gallipoli 13, functioned as a critical strategic pressure valve for the British military system. By accommodating the vast logistical requirements of the eastern campaign, the Egyptian base prevented this logistical weight from destabilising or collapsing the already strained infrastructure supporting the Western Front in 1915.23 While Egypt did not contribute trained manpower directly to the BEF in 1915, it was vital in sustaining the war on two fronts simultaneously.

V. Egypt’s Transition: The Post-Gallipoli Shift and the 1916 Flow to France

The military role of Egypt underwent a dramatic transformation at the close of 1915, a shift that is critical for understanding the chronological parameters of the user’s query.

The December 1915 Flood: The Return of the MEF

The failed Gallipoli Campaign concluded with the complete evacuation of Allied forces by January 1916.28 Starting in December 1915, the remaining forces of the MEF, including large numbers of seasoned UK, ANZAC, and other Imperial troops, were withdrawn and returned to Egypt.4 The Force in Egypt, which had been reduced mainly to a “training and reinforcement camp” during the Gallipoli offensive 4, now swelled with veteran combat divisions. For example, the 53rd (Welsh) Division, having suffered massive casualties at Gallipoli, arrived back in Egypt around 20 December 1915 for rest, refitting, and future deployment.20

The 1916 Reallocation: Egypt as a Source for the BEF

The concentration of experienced troops in Egypt immediately transformed its strategic status. With the growing scale of operations expected on the Western Front, particularly the massive offensive planned for the Somme, there was an intense demand for veteran fighting formations to reinforce the BEF.23 Egypt now housed a large strategic reserve of combat-tested units.

Crucially, the 29th Division, which had spent 1915 fighting solely at Gallipoli, rested briefly in Egypt (January to February 1916) and then received definitive orders on 25 February 1916 to move to France.17 The division embarked in March and began concentrating east of Pont Remy between 15 and 29 March, thus becoming a major fighting force on the Western Front.17

This transfer of the 29th Division confirms that Egypt did function as a strategic staging ground for UK troops destined for France—but this role only materialised after the evacuation of Gallipoli, beginning in the calendar year 1916. Following this reallocation, the FiE was formally merged with the remainder of the MEF to create the Egyptian Expeditionary Force (EEF) in March 1916.4 The EEF was then dedicated entirely to the defence of the Canal and the subsequent prosecution of the Sinai and Palestine Campaign.30

VI. Conclusion: A Multi-Functional Imperial Base

The role of the British Army in Egypt during 1915 was multifaceted but sharply delimited by the strategic priorities of the war’s Eastern theatre. Egypt was established as a vital imperial base with three key operational functions: the necessary garrisoning and defence of the Suez Canal, primarily undertaken by Indian and Egyptian forces; the primary training and mobilization hub for the ANZAC Corps destined for Gallipoli; and the critical logistical staging base for all UK Regular and Territorial forces (such as the 29th and 53rd Divisions) committed to the Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF).

Final Determination

In a specific answer to the query regarding whether Egypt was used for training British (UK) soldiers for France in 1915, the comprehensive evidence strongly indicates No.

The UK training system for the Western Front remained decentralised in the United Kingdom and industrialised in the rear areas of France. The British units that trained and staged extensively in Egypt were primarily the ANZAC Corps. The veteran UK units that eventually fought on the Western Front, originating from Egypt—most notably the 29th Division—did not transfer to France until after the Gallipoli evacuation, commencing in 1916. Thus, in the calendar year 1915, the manpower allocated to Egypt was rigidly defined by the need to secure the Canal and prosecute the Gallipoli campaign.

The following data summarises the composition and disposition of forces in Egypt during the critical period of 1915.

Table 1: Composition and Primary Role of Key Forces in Egypt (1915)

Formation TypeExample Units PresentApproximate StrengthPrimary Role in Egypt (1915)Destination from Egypt
Imperial Garrison (FiE)10th & 11th Indian Divisions, Bikaner Camel Corps~30,000Defence of the Suez CanalEgypt/Sinai
Dominion Expeditionary ForceANZAC Corps (AIF/NZEF)~25,000Training/MobilizationGallipoli (MEF)
UK Regular (Staging)29th Division15,000+Staging/Immediate DeploymentGallipoli (MEF)
UK Territorial Force (TF)53rd (Welsh) Division15,000+Staging/ReinforcementGallipoli (MEF)

Table 2: Key British Troop Movements from Egypt to External Theatres (1915-1916)

Unit/FormationDate Arrived in EgyptKey Activity in EgyptDate Departed EgyptDestinationCausal Relationship to Query
ANZAC CorpsDecember 1914Training (Mena/Moascar)April 1915GallipoliConfirms 1915 training role, but not for UK troops/France.
29th Division (UK Regular)March 1915StagingApril 1915GallipoliUK troop passage in 1915 for MEF, not BEF.
53rd (Welsh) Division (TF)July 1915StagingAugust 1915GallipoliUK TF units prioritized for MEF in 1915.
29th Division (UK Regular)January 1916 (Returned)Rest/ReorganisationMarch 1916France (Western Front)Shows Egypt becoming a BEF staging post, but only after 1915.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Cyprus

Unveiling Cyprus: A Journey Along the Road Less Travelled

Cyprus, with its azure seas, ancient history, and Mediterranean charm, often draws travellers to its bustling resorts and UNESCO-listed sites. But beyond the well-trodden paths lies a lesser-known side of the island—a tapestry of hidden gems, serene landscapes, and rich cultural heritage waiting to be discovered. If you’re seeking adventure off the beaten track, here are five extraordinary experiences that will transform your Cyprus journey into an unforgettable odyssey.


1. Wander Through the Timeless Villages of Omodos

Nestled in the Troodos Mountains, Omodos is a picturesque village that feels like a step back in time. Lined with centuries-old stone houses and terraced olive groves, this UNESCO-recognised hamlet is a haven for those craving tranquillity. Known as a centre for Cypriot winemaking and olive oil production, Omodos offers a glimpse into traditional rural life. Visit the Monastery of Panagia Kanakaria, with its breathtaking 17th-century frescoes, and take a leisurely stroll through the surrounding fields. Tip: Enjoy a local wine tasting at one of the family-run wineries, and don’t miss the village’s annual olive oil festival.

Why It’s Off the Radar: While Omodos is gaining attention among locals, it remains a secret to most international travellers, making it perfect for quiet exploration.


2. Marvel at Stavros tou Athanasiou: The Church of Saint John in the Forest

Tucked between the lush forests of the Troodos Mountains, Stavros tou Athanasiou is a Byzantine gem dating back to the 10th–11th centuries. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is renowned for its stunning frescoes depicting biblical scenes with remarkable vibrancy. The church’s remote location, surrounded by pine trees and the scent of herbs, creates an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Tip: Light a candle to honour Saint John, a local tradition believed to bring blessings, and bring a picnic to savour the serene setting.

Why It’s Hidden: Nestled deep in the wilderness, it’s a 45-minute drive from Limassol, requiring a bit of commitment—exactly what adventurous travellers crave.


3. Escape to Karkarash Dam and Its Bucolic Surroundings

Just west of Nicosia, Karkarash Dam is a hidden oasis that boasts one of Cyprus’s most scenic reservoirs. Framed by olive groves and rolling hills, it’s a peaceful spot for picnics, hiking, or simply soaking in panoramic views. The nearby Ethnological Museum of Avdimou village offers a fascinating look into rural Cypriot life, with relics like old wine presses and traditional tools. Tip: Visit in the spring when wildflowers blanket the area, or in winter for birdwatching opportunities.

Why It’s Under the Radar: Unlike the island’s popular beaches, Karkarash remains a low-key destination, frequented mainly by locals.


4. Walk the Ammochostos Trail’s Valley of the Queens

Stretching across the Ammachosti mountain range, the Ammochostos Trail is a lesser-known hiking route that reveals Cyprus’s ancient past. The Valley of the Queens, part of this trail, is a mystical expanse of rock formations and tombs carved into cliffs—believed to predate even the nearby Valley of the Cyclops. As you trek, imagine the footsteps of merchants and pilgrims who once traversed this path. Tip: Start your hike at the ancient city of Golgoi near Limassol, and pack sturdy shoes—parts of the trail are rocky and unpaved.

Why It’s Secret: While the Ammochostos Trail is technically a historical route, the Valley of the Queens segment is rarely explored by tourists.


5. Discover Lara Beach: The Hidden Emerald Cove

Accessed via a 45-minute hike or a boat tour from Polis Chrysochous, Lara Beach is a secluded paradise in the Akamas Peninsula. Framed by towering cliffs, this crescent of golden sand is fringed by crystal-clear waters—a true hidden gem. The nearby Ghost Forest, a small island with stilted tree trunks rising from the sea, adds a touch of mystery to the experience. Tip: Bring a waterproof bag for your supplies and explore the surrounding coves for snorkelling or diving.

Why It’s Remote: The lack of road access means Lara Beach is one of the island’s best-kept secrets—perfect for privacy-seeking travellers.


Conclusion: Embrace the Uncharted
Cyprus is more than just its beaches and resorts—it’s a land of quiet villages, ancient trails, and natural wonders waiting to be uncovered. By straying from the well-worn paths, you’ll discover a side of the island that resonates with history, serenity, and authenticity. So pack your sense of adventure, rent a car, and let Cyprus surprise you with its hidden treasures. The road less travelled promises an unforgettable journey.

Got a favourite offbeat spot in Cyprus? Share it in the comments—we’d love to hear your discoveries!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Corsica

Corsica, known as the “Isle of Beauty,” has many stunning areas that are often overlooked by the crowds heading to the main coastal resorts.

Here are five of the next best places or activities to do on a less-travelled road in Corsica:

1. The Désert des Agriates

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: This vast, uninhabited area in the north-west is a protected coastal wilderness with no main roads. The beaches are often only accessible by boat, a long hike, or a rough, dusty 4×4 track.
  • The Experience: Explore the wild, fragrant maquis (scrubland) and find pristine white-sand beaches like Plage de Saleccia and Plage du Lodu. You can hire a boat-taxi from Saint-Florent for a day trip, or rent a 4×4 to experience the rugged interior track.

2. The Castagniccia Region (Chestnut Country)

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: Located in the mountainous north-east, this region is a maze of winding, narrow roads that discourage fast travel. Its villages were once wealthy but have been slowly abandoned, giving it an atmosphere of beautiful, forgotten history.
  • The Experience: Drive through deep chestnut forests (castagna is the Corsican word for chestnut) and discover ancient, isolated stone villages like Piedicroce or La Porta, which features a magnificent baroque church and bell tower. This area is perfect for feeling truly lost in time.

3. Hiking the Western Side of Cap Corse’s Sentier des Douaniers

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: While the Cap Corse loop road is popular, most tourists stick to the drive and the villages. The full coastal path (Sentier des Douaniers) is long, but the section on the wilder, rockier west coast sees fewer walkers than the northern tip.
  • The Experience: Start near a village like Centuri or Tollare and walk south along the “customs officers’ path,” an ancient route used to patrol the coast. You’ll be rewarded with dramatic sea views, Genoese watchtowers, and a silence that contrasts with the busy eastern coast.

4. The Alta Rocca Region and the Solenzara Natural Pools

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: Located in the mountainous south, the focus here is inland scenery, far from the coastal bustle of Porto-Vecchio and Propriano. The villages like Zicavo and Quenza offer an authentic glimpse of mountain life.
  • The Experience: Go for a freshwater swim in the natural rock pools (piscines naturelles) carved by rivers like the Solenzara, or head toward the spectacular Aiguilles de Bavella (Bavella Needles) for jaw-dropping mountain views and hiking trails.

5. The Niolo Valley and the Col de Vergio

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: This high-altitude valley is deep in the heart of the Corsican mountains, accessible via a dramatic, narrow road that climbs up to the Col de Vergio (the island’s highest road pass).
  • The Experience: Enjoy the dramatic scenery and cooler air. From the Col de Vergio, you are close to the famous GR20 hiking trail. A short hike to the Lac de Nino is a popular but quieter option. The valley is also known for its traditional Corsican products and its semi-wild roaming pigs and cows.

Third son of a Duke – The research behind the story – 15

All stories require some form of research, quite often to place a character in a place at a particular time, especially if it is in a historical context. This series will take you through what it was like in 1914 through 1916.

Mena Camp Training and Deployment (April 1915)

1. Trench Warfare Conditioning at Mena Camp, Egypt

The British and Dominion troops (primarily ANZACs) stationed at Mena Camp near the Pyramids from December 1914 through early 1915 received extensive military training, but it was generally considered inadequate for the complex, industrialised nature of Western Front trench warfare.

A. The Focus of Training

The curriculum was heavily influenced by traditional pre-war British doctrine and the immediate need to defend the Suez Canal, resulting in conditioning focused primarily on:

  • Discipline and Drill: Intense route marches in full kit across the deep desert sand to build stamina and discipline. The aim was to “harden” the men for active service.
  • Musketry and Field Tactics: Extensive rifle practice and training in basic field formations and manoeuvres, adapted for the open terrain of the desert.
  • Rudimentary Trenches: While they did dig and occupy practice trenches, these were often created for the purpose of defending the linear positions of the Suez Canal against a Turkish attack (which did occur in February 1915). This training lacked the crucial elements that defined the Western Front:
    • No Bombing/Grenades: Many troops arrived without even seeing a modern hand grenade (a “bomb”) or knowing how to use one.
    • No Periscopes or Wire Tactics: They lacked training in the use of periscopes for observation or tactics for cutting and navigating dense barbed wire defenses.
    • No Gas Warfare: The chemical attacks that defined the Western Front had not yet become standard, so this conditioning was absent.

In short, the training was excellent for physical fitness and basic soldiering but poorly prepared the men for the static, subterranean, machine-gun-dominated battles of Europe.

B. The Missing “Western Front” Element

Training staff at Mena relied on textbooks and older doctrine. There was very little intelligence or doctrine flowing directly from the horrific realities of the trenches in France and Belgium (where the stalemate was already in full swing). As such, the conditioning was for a war of movement that had already ceased to exist on the main European front.

2. Deployment Destinations

For the troops training in Egypt in April 1915, the overwhelming majority of British, Australian, and New Zealand forces were not sent to the Western Front.

A. Immediate Destination: The Gallipoli Campaign

The primary and immediate destination for almost all troops (British territorial divisions, ANZACs, and other reinforcements) mobilised from Egypt in April 1915 was the Gallipoli Peninsula (The Dardanelles).

  • The Mediterranean Expeditionary Force (MEF), commanded by General Sir Ian Hamilton, was assembling in Egypt to launch the amphibious assault designed to capture Constantinople and knock the Ottoman Empire out of the war.
  • In the weeks leading up to April 25, 1915, forces were moved from Egypt to staging posts like the Greek island of Lemnos for final preparations before the famous landings at Anzac Cove and Cape Helles.
  • Your enlisted Englishman, arriving in April 1915, would almost certainly have been deployed to Gallipoli if his special orders related to infantry service or staff work supporting the MEF.

B. The Western Front Deployment (Later in the War)

The large-scale movement of these forces to the Western Front only occurred after the failure and eventual evacuation of Gallipoli (late 1915 and early 1916).

  • 1916: In early 1916, the surviving ANZAC divisions were expanded and reorganised in Egypt before being transferred to France and Belgium. They entered the trenches of the Western Front and suffered massive casualties at battles like Pozières and Fromelles (part of the Battle of the Somme in 1916).
  • British Divisions: Several British divisions (such as the 31st and 54th) that had been brought to Egypt to protect the Suez Canal or support the MEF were also transferred to France in early 1916.
  • Remaining Forces: Other British and Empire forces remained in Egypt to form the Egyptian Expeditionary Force (EEF), which was tasked with defending the Canal and launching the later successful campaigns into Palestine and Syria against the Ottoman Turks.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Corsica

Corsica, known as the “Isle of Beauty,” has many stunning areas that are often overlooked by the crowds heading to the main coastal resorts.

Here are five of the next best places or activities to do on a less-travelled road in Corsica:

1. The Désert des Agriates

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: This vast, uninhabited area in the north-west is a protected coastal wilderness with no main roads. The beaches are often only accessible by boat, a long hike, or a rough, dusty 4×4 track.
  • The Experience: Explore the wild, fragrant maquis (scrubland) and find pristine white-sand beaches like Plage de Saleccia and Plage du Lodu. You can hire a boat-taxi from Saint-Florent for a day trip, or rent a 4×4 to experience the rugged interior track.

2. The Castagniccia Region (Chestnut Country)

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: Located in the mountainous north-east, this region is a maze of winding, narrow roads that discourage fast travel. Its villages were once wealthy but have been slowly abandoned, giving it an atmosphere of beautiful, forgotten history.
  • The Experience: Drive through deep chestnut forests (castagna is the Corsican word for chestnut) and discover ancient, isolated stone villages like Piedicroce or La Porta, which features a magnificent baroque church and bell tower. This area is perfect for feeling truly lost in time.

3. Hiking the Western Side of Cap Corse’s Sentier des Douaniers

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: While the Cap Corse loop road is popular, most tourists stick to the drive and the villages. The full coastal path (Sentier des Douaniers) is long, but the section on the wilder, rockier west coast sees fewer walkers than the northern tip.
  • The Experience: Start near a village like Centuri or Tollare and walk south along the “customs officers’ path,” an ancient route used to patrol the coast. You’ll be rewarded with dramatic sea views, Genoese watchtowers, and a silence that contrasts with the busy eastern coast.

4. The Alta Rocca Region and the Solenzara Natural Pools

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: Located in the mountainous south, the focus here is inland scenery, far from the coastal bustle of Porto-Vecchio and Propriano. The villages like Zicavo and Quenza offer an authentic glimpse of mountain life.
  • The Experience: Go for a freshwater swim in the natural rock pools (piscines naturelles) carved by rivers like the Solenzara, or head toward the spectacular Aiguilles de Bavella (Bavella Needles) for jaw-dropping mountain views and hiking trails.

5. The Niolo Valley and the Col de Vergio

  • Why it’s “less travelled”: This high-altitude valley is deep in the heart of the Corsican mountains, accessible via a dramatic, narrow road that climbs up to the Col de Vergio (the island’s highest road pass).
  • The Experience: Enjoy the dramatic scenery and cooler air. From the Col de Vergio, you are close to the famous GR20 hiking trail. A short hike to the Lac de Nino is a popular but quieter option. The valley is also known for its traditional Corsican products and its semi-wild roaming pigs and cows.

An excerpt from “Mistaken Identity” – a work in progress

The odds of any one of us having a doppelganger are quite high. Whether or not you got to meet him or her, or be confronted by them was significantly lower. Except of course, unless you are a celebrity.

It was a phenomenon remarkable only for the fact, at times, certain high-profile people, notorious or not, had doubles if only to put off enemies or the general public. Sometimes we see people in the street, people who look like someone we knew, and made the mistake of approaching them like a long lost friend, only to discover an embarrassed individual desperately trying to get away for what they perceive is a stalker or worse.

And then sometimes it is a picture that looms up on a TV screen, an almost exact likeness of you. At first, you are fascinated, and then according to the circumstances, and narrative that is attached to that picture, either flattered or horrified.

For me one turned to the other when I saw an almost likeness of me flash up on the screen when I turned the TV on in my room. What looked to be my photo, with only minor differences, was in the corner of the screen, the newsreader speaking in rapid Italian, so fast I could only translate every second or third word.

But the one word I did recognize was murder. The photo of the man up on the screen was the subject of an extensive manhunt. The crime, the murder of a woman in the very same hotel I was staying, and it was being played out live several floors above me. The gist of the story, the woman had been seen with, and staying with the man who was my double, and, less than an hour ago, the body had been discovered by a chambermaid.

The killer, the announcer said, was believed to be still in the hotel because the woman had died shortly before she had been discovered.

I watched, at first fascinated at what I was seeing. I guess I should have been horrified, but at that moment it didn’t register that I might be mistaken for that man.

Not until another five minutes had passed, and I was watching the police in full riot gear, with a camera crew following behind, coming up a passage towards a room. Live action of the arrest of the suspected killer the breathless commentator said.

Then, suddenly, there was a pounding on the door. On the TV screen, plain to see, was the number of my room.
I looked through the peephole and saw an army of police officers. It didn’t take much to realize what had happened. The hotel staff identified me as the man in the photograph on the TV and called the police.

Horrified wasn’t what I was feeling right then.

It was fear.

My last memory was the door crashing open, the wood splintering, and men rushing into the room, screaming at me, waving guns, and when I put my hands up to defend myself, I heard a gunshot.

And in one very confused and probably near-death experience, I thought I saw my mother and thought what was she doing in Rome?

I was the archetypal nobody.

I lived in a small flat, I drove a nondescript car, had an average job in a low profile travel agency, was single, and currently not involved in a relationship, no children, and according to my workmates, no life.

They were wrong. I was one of those people who preferred their own company, I had a cat, and travelled whenever I could. And I did have a ‘thing’ for Rosalie, one of the reasons why I stayed at the travel agency. I didn’t expect anything to come of it, but one could always hope.

I was both pleased and excited to be going to the conference. It was my first, and the glimpse I had seen of it had whetted my appetite for more information about the nuances of my profession.

Some would say that a travel agent wasn’t much of a job, but to me, it was every bit as demanding as being an accountant or a lawyer. You were providing a customer with a service, and arguably more people needed a travel agent than a lawyer. At least that was what I told myself, as I watched more and more people start using the internet, and our relevance slowly dissipating.

This conference was about countering that trend.

The trip over had been uneventful. I was met at the airport and taken to the hotel where the conference was being held with a number of other delegates who had arrived on the same plane. I had mingled with a number of other delegates at the pre conference get together, including one whose name was Maryanne.

She was an unusual young woman, not the sort that I usually met, because she was the one who was usually surrounded by all the boys, the life of the party. In normal circumstances, I would not have introduced myself to her, but she had approached me. Why did I think that may have been significant? All of this ran through my mind, culminating in the last event on the highlight reel, the door bursting open, men rushing into my room, and then one of the policemen opened fire.

I replayed that last scene again, trying to see the face of my assailant, but it was just a sea of men in battle dress, bullet proof vests and helmets, accompanied by screaming and yelling, some of which I identified as “Get on the floor”.

Then came the shot.

Why ask me to get on the floor if all they were going to do was shoot me. I was putting my hands up at the time, in surrender, not reaching for a weapon.

Then I saw the face again, hovering in the background like a ghost. My mother. Only the hair was different, and her clothes, and then the image was going, perhaps a figment of my imagination brought on by pain killing drugs. I tried to imagine the scene again, but this time it played out, without the image of my mother.

I opened my eyes took stock of my surroundings. What I felt in that exact moment couldn’t be described. I should most likely be dead, the result of a gunshot wound. I guess I should be thankful the shooter hadn’t aimed at anything vital, but that was the only item on the plus side.

I was in a hospital room with a policeman by the door. He was reading a newspaper, and sitting uncomfortably on a small chair. He gave me a quick glance when he heard me move slightly, but didn’t acknowledge me with either a nod, or a greeting, just went back to the paper.

If I still had a police guard, then I was still considered a suspect. What was interesting was that I was not handcuffed to the bed. Perhaps that only happened in TV shows. Or maybe they knew I couldn’t run because my injuries were too serious. Or the guard would shoot me long before my feet hit the floor. I knew the police well enough now to know they would shoot first and ask questions later.

On the physical side, I had a large bandage over the top left corner of my chest, extending over my shoulder. A little poking and prodding determined the bullet had hit somewhere between the top of my rib cage and my shoulder. Nothing vital there, but my arm might be somewhat useless for a while, depending on what the bullet hit on the way in, or through.

It didn’t feel like there were any broken or damaged bones.

That was the good news.

On the other side of the ledger, my mental state, there was only one word that could describe it. Terrified. I was looking at a murder charge and jail time, a lot of it. Murder usually had a long time in jail attached to it.

Whatever had happened, I didn’t do it. I know I didn’t do it, but I had to try and explain this to people who had already made up their minds. I searched my mind for evidence. It was there, but in the confused state brought on by the medication, all I could think about was jail, and the sort of company I was going to have.

I think death would have been preferable.

Half an hour later, maybe longer, I was drifting in an out of consciousness, a nurse, or what I thought was a nurse, came into the room. The guard stood, checked her ID card, and then stood by the door.

She came over and stood beside the bed. “How are you?” she asked, first in Italian, and when I pretended I didn’t understand, she asked the same question in accented English.

“Alive, I guess,” I said. “No one has come and told what my condition is yet. You are my first visitor. Can you tell me?”

“Of course. You are very lucky to be alive. You will be fine and make a full recovery. The doctors here are excellent at their work.”

“What happens now?”

“I check you, and then you have a another visitor. He is from the British Embassy I think. But he will have to wait until I have finished my examination.”

I realized then she was a doctor, not a nurse.

My second visitor was a man, dressed in a suit the sort of which I associated with the British Civil Service.  He was not very old which told me he was probably a recent graduate on his first posting, the junior officer who drew the short straw.

The guard checked his ID but again did not leave the room, sitting back down and going back to his newspaper.

My visitor introduced himself as Alex Jordan from the British Embassy in Rome and that he had been asked by the Ambassador to sort out what he labelled a tricky mess.

For starters, it was good to see that someone cared about what happened to me.  But, equally, I knew the mantra, get into trouble overseas, and there is not much we can do to help you.  So, after that lengthy introduction, I had to wonder why he was here.

I said, “They think I am an international criminal by the name of Jacob Westerbury, whose picture looks just like me, and apparently for them it is an open and shut case.”  I could still hear the fragments of the yelling as the police burst through the door, at the same time telling me to get on the floor with my hands over my head.

“It’s not.  They know they’ve got the wrong man, which is why I’m here.  There is the issue of what had been described as excessive force, and the fact you were shot had made it an all-round embarrassment for them.”

“Then why are you here?  Shouldn’t they be here apologizing?”

“That is why you have another visitor.  I only took precedence because I insisted I speak with you first.  I have come, basically to ask you for a favour.  This situation has afforded us with an opportunity.  We would like you to sign the official document which basically indemnifies them against any legal proceedings.”

Curious.  What sort of opportunity was he talking about?  Was this a matter than could get difficult and I could be charged by the Italian Government, even if I wasn’t guilty, or was it one of those hush hush type deals, you do this for us, we’ll help you out with that.  “What sort of opportunity?”

“We want to get our hands on Jacob Westerbury as much as they do.  They’ve made a mistake, and we’d like to use that to get custody of him if or when he is arrested in this country.  I’m sure you would also like this man brought into custody as soon as possible so you will stop being confused with him.  I can only imagine what it was like to be arrested in the manner you were.  And I would not blame you if you wanted to get some compensation for what they’ve done.  But.  There are bigger issues in play here, and you would be doing this for your country.”

I wondered what would happen if I didn’t agree to his proposal.  I had to ask, “What if I don’t?”

His expression didn’t change.  “I’m sure you are a sensible man Mr Pargeter, who is more than willing to help his country whenever he can.  They have agreed to take care of all your hospital expenses, and refund the cost of the Conference, and travel.  I’m sure I could also get them to pay for a few days at Capri, or Sorrento if you like, before you go home.  What do you say?”

There was only one thing I could say.  Wasn’t it treason if you went against your country’s wishes?

“I’m not an unreasonable man, Alex.  Go do your deal, and I’ll sign the papers.”

“Good man.”

After Alex left, the doctor came back to announce the arrival of a woman, by the way she had announced herself, the publicity officer from the Italian police. When she came into the room, she was not dressed in a uniform.

The doctor left after giving a brief report to the civilian at the door. I understood the gist of it, “The patient has recovered excellently and the wounds are healing as expected. There is no cause for concern.”

That was a relief.

While the doctor was speaking to the civilian, I speculated on who she might be. She was young, not more than thirty, conservatively dressed so an official of some kind, but not necessarily with the police. Did they have prosecutors? I was unfamiliar with the Italian legal system.

She had long wavy black hair and the sort of sultry looks of an Italian movie star, and her presence made me more curious than fearful though I couldn’t say why.

The woman then spoke to the guard, and he reluctantly got up and left the room, closing the door behind him.
She checked the door, and then came back towards me, standing at the end of the bed. Now alone, she said, “A few questions before we begin.” Her English was only slightly accented. “Your name is Jack Pargeter?”

I nodded. “Yes.”

“You are in Rome to attend the Travel Agents Conference at the Hilton Hotel?”

“Yes.”

“You attended a preconference introduction on the evening of the 25th, after arriving from London at approximately 4:25 pm.”

“About that time, yes. I know it was about five when the bus came to collect me, and several others, to take us to the hotel.”

She smiled. It was then I noticed she was reading from a small notepad.

“It was ten past five to be precise. The driver had been held up in traffic. We have a number of witnesses who saw you on the plane, on the bus, at the hotel, and with the aid of closed circuit TV we have established you are not the criminal Jacob Westerbury.”

She put her note book back in her bag and then said, “My name is Vicenza Andretti and I am with the prosecutor’s office. I am here to formally apologize for the situation that can only be described as a case of mistaken identity. I assure you it is not the habit of our police officers to shoot people unless they have a very strong reason for doing so. I understand that in the confusion of the arrest one of our officers accidentally discharged his weapon. We are undergoing a very thorough investigation into the circumstances of this event.”

I was not sure why, but between the time I had spoken to the embassy official and now, something about letting them off so easily was bugging me. I could see why they had sent her. It would be difficult to be angry or annoyed with her.

But I was annoyed.

“Do you often send a whole squad of trigger happy riot police to arrest a single man?” It came out harsher than I intended.

“My men believed they were dealing with a dangerous criminal.”

“Do I look like a dangerous criminal?” And then I realized if it was mistaken identity, the answer would be yes.

She saw the look on my face, and said quietly, “I think you know the answer to that question, Mr. Pargeter.”

“Well, it was overkill.”

“As I said, we are very sorry for the circumstances you now find yourself in. You must understand that we honestly believed we were dealing with an armed and dangerous murderer, and we were acting within our mandate. My department will cover your medical expenses, and any other amounts for the inconvenience this has caused you. I believe you were attending a conference at your hotel. I am very sorry but given the medical circumstances you have, you will have to remain here for a few more days.”

“I guess, then, I should thank you for not killing me.”

Her expression told me that was not the best thing I could have said in the circumstances.

“I mean, I should thank you for the hospital and the care. But a question or two of my own. May I?”

She nodded.

“Did you catch this Jacob Westerbury character?”

“No. In the confusion created by your arrest he escaped. Once we realized we had made a mistake and reviewed the close circuit TV, we tracked him leaving by a rear exit.”

“Are you sure it was one of your men who shot me?”

I watched as her expression changed, to one of surprise.

“You don’t think it was one of my men?”

“Oddly enough no. But don’t ask me why.”

“It is very interesting that you should say that, because in our initial investigation, it appeared none of our officer’s weapons had been discharged. A forensic investigation into the bullet tells us it was one that is used in our weapons, but…”

I could see their dilemma.

“Have you any enemies that would want to shoot you Mr Pargeter?”

That was absurd because I had no enemies, at least none that I knew of, much less anyone who would want me dead.

“Not that I’m aware of.”

“Then it is strange, and will perhaps remain a mystery. I will let you know if anything more is revealed in our investigation.”

She took an envelope out of her briefcase and opened it, pulling out several sheets of paper.

I knew what it was. A verbal apology was one thing, but a signed waiver would cover them legally. They had sent a pretty girl to charm me. Perhaps using anyone else it would not have worked. There was potential for a huge litigation payout here, and someone more ruthless would jump at the chance of making a few million out of the Italian Government.

“We need a signature on this document,” she said.

“Absolving you of any wrong doing?”

“I have apologized. We will take whatever measures are required for your comfort after this event. We are accepting responsibility for our actions, and are being reasonable.”

They were. I took the pen from her and signed the documents.

“You couldn’t add dinner with you on that list of benefits?” No harm in asking.

“I am unfortunately unavailable.”

I smiled. “It wasn’t a request for a date, just dinner. You can tell me about Rome, as only a resident can. Please.”

She looked me up and down, searching for the ulterior motive. When she couldn’t find one, she said, “We shall see once the hospital discharges you in a few days.”

“Then I’ll pencil you in?”

She looked at me quizzically. “What is this pencil me in?”

“It’s an English colloquialism. It means maybe. As when you write something in pencil, it is easy to erase it.”

A momentary frown, then recognition and a smile. “I shall remember that. Thank-you for your time and co-operation Mr. Pargeter. Good morning.”

© Charles Heath 2015-2021