Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Monte Carlo

Beyond the Boulevard: Monte Carlo’s Hidden Gems and Next Big Adventures

Monte Carlo. The very name conjures images of glittering casinos, sleek sports cars, and the sun-drenched glamour of the French Riviera. And while the iconic Grand Prix circuit and the legendary Casino de Monte-Carlo are undeniably magnificent, the true magic of this principality often lies just a whisper off the beaten path.

For the discerning traveller, the question isn’t if there’s more to Monte Carlo, but what awaits those willing to venture a little further. So, buckle up, because we’re about to unveil the next five must-do and must-see experiences that will redefine your perception of this jewel of the Mediterranean.


1. Dive into the Depths: Exploring the Oceanographic Museum’s Hidden Aquariums

While the Oceanographic Museum is a renowned landmark, many visitors focus on its impressive exhibits and historical significance. However, venture deeper into its labyrinthine halls, and you’ll discover a world teeming with vibrant marine life in its less-publicised, yet equally captivating, aquariums.

Why it’s a must-do: Imagine coming face-to-face with a mesmerising array of Mediterranean species, from schools of shimmering sardines to the majestic presence of groupers, all housed within a building perched dramatically on the cliff face. It’s an intimate encounter with the underwater world, offering a tranquil escape from the bustling streets above. Seek out the specialised tanks showcasing the fascinating biodiversity of the local waters – it’s a surprisingly serene and educational experience.


2. Ascend to Serenity: A Hike to the Jardin S an Martin and its Panoramic Vistas

Most tourists flock to the Prince’s Palace for the Changing of the Guard, but a short, pleasant stroll away lies the serene Jardin Saint-Martin. This beautifully landscaped park, perched on the very edge of the Rock, offers not just respite, but breathtaking, unobstructed panoramas that often get overlooked.

Why it’s a must-do: Forget the crowded viewpoints. Here, you can wander amongst fragrant pine trees and vibrant bougainvillea, finding your own quiet bench to soak in the sweeping vistas of the harbor, the superyachts, and the distant coastline. The juxtaposition of the meticulously manicured gardens against the wild beauty of the sea is a photographer’s dream and a soul soother’s paradise. It’s the perfect spot for a leisurely picnic or simply to contemplate the grandeur of the Riviera.


3. Uncover Artistic Treasures: The Nouveau Musée National de Monaco (NMNM) in Villa Paloma and Villa Sauber

Beyond the glitz and glamour, Monte Carlo boasts a thriving contemporary art scene, often tucked away in elegant historical settings. The Nouveau Musée National de Monaco (NMNM) is comprised of two distinct villas, each offering a unique artistic experience that transcends the typical museum visit.

Why it’s a must-do: Villa Paloma, with its stunning contemporary architecture and sculpture garden, often hosts groundbreaking exhibitions by international artists. Villa Sauber, a Belle Époque townhouse, offers a more intimate setting for exploring historical collections, temporary exhibitions, and often features engaging multimedia displays. Exploring these two gems provides a deeper understanding of Monaco’s cultural fabric, showcasing a dynamic and evolving artistic identity that might surprise you.


4. Savor Local Flavors: A Culinary Journey Through the Condamine Market

While Michelin-starred restaurants are plentiful, for a true taste of Monaco’s everyday life and authentic flavours, head to the vibrant Condamine Market (Marché de la Condamine). This bustling open-air and covered market is a sensory delight, offering a glimpse into the local culinary scene.

Why it’s a must-do: Forget tourist traps; here you’ll find fresh produce, local delicacies, and a genuine community atmosphere. Sample Socca (a delicious chickpea pancake), indulge in freshly baked Fougasse, or simply grab a coffee and people-watch as locals shop for their daily ingredients. It’s an opportunity to connect with the heart of Monaco, to taste its heritage, and to discover culinary gems that are far from the tourist trail.


5. Embrace the Outdoors: A Coastal Ramble to the Exotic Garden’s Secret Trails

The Jardin Exotique is famous for its breathtaking collection of succulents and its stunning views. However, many visitors stick to the main paths. Those willing to explore a little further will discover a network of less-trafficked trails that lead to hidden grottos and offer even more secluded viewpoints.

Why it’s a must-do: Beyond the cacti and the impressive cave dwelling, these winding paths lead you through a microclimate of unique flora, offering moments of quiet contemplation amidst nature’s artistry. Discover hidden nooks with unparalleled views of the bay, and feel a sense of discovery as you navigate these less-worn routes. It’s an opportunity to experience the natural beauty of the region away from the crowds, breathing in the fragrant air and enjoying a more intimate connection with the landscape.


Monte Carlo is a destination that rewards curiosity. By venturing beyond the iconic landmarks and embracing these less-travelled paths, you’ll unlock a richer, more authentic, and ultimately, more unforgettable experience. So, pack your sense of adventure and get ready to discover a whole new side of this legendary principality.

What are your favourite “off the beaten path” spots in Monte Carlo? Share your hidden gems in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Monte Carlo

Beyond the Boulevard: Monte Carlo’s Hidden Gems and Next Big Adventures

Monte Carlo. The very name conjures images of glittering casinos, sleek sports cars, and the sun-drenched glamour of the French Riviera. And while the iconic Grand Prix circuit and the legendary Casino de Monte-Carlo are undeniably magnificent, the true magic of this principality often lies just a whisper off the beaten path.

For the discerning traveller, the question isn’t if there’s more to Monte Carlo, but what awaits those willing to venture a little further. So, buckle up, because we’re about to unveil the next five must-do and must-see experiences that will redefine your perception of this jewel of the Mediterranean.


1. Dive into the Depths: Exploring the Oceanographic Museum’s Hidden Aquariums

While the Oceanographic Museum is a renowned landmark, many visitors focus on its impressive exhibits and historical significance. However, venture deeper into its labyrinthine halls, and you’ll discover a world teeming with vibrant marine life in its less-publicised, yet equally captivating, aquariums.

Why it’s a must-do: Imagine coming face-to-face with a mesmerising array of Mediterranean species, from schools of shimmering sardines to the majestic presence of groupers, all housed within a building perched dramatically on the cliff face. It’s an intimate encounter with the underwater world, offering a tranquil escape from the bustling streets above. Seek out the specialised tanks showcasing the fascinating biodiversity of the local waters – it’s a surprisingly serene and educational experience.


2. Ascend to Serenity: A Hike to the Jardin S an Martin and its Panoramic Vistas

Most tourists flock to the Prince’s Palace for the Changing of the Guard, but a short, pleasant stroll away lies the serene Jardin Saint-Martin. This beautifully landscaped park, perched on the very edge of the Rock, offers not just respite, but breathtaking, unobstructed panoramas that often get overlooked.

Why it’s a must-do: Forget the crowded viewpoints. Here, you can wander amongst fragrant pine trees and vibrant bougainvillea, finding your own quiet bench to soak in the sweeping vistas of the harbor, the superyachts, and the distant coastline. The juxtaposition of the meticulously manicured gardens against the wild beauty of the sea is a photographer’s dream and a soul soother’s paradise. It’s the perfect spot for a leisurely picnic or simply to contemplate the grandeur of the Riviera.


3. Uncover Artistic Treasures: The Nouveau Musée National de Monaco (NMNM) in Villa Paloma and Villa Sauber

Beyond the glitz and glamour, Monte Carlo boasts a thriving contemporary art scene, often tucked away in elegant historical settings. The Nouveau Musée National de Monaco (NMNM) is comprised of two distinct villas, each offering a unique artistic experience that transcends the typical museum visit.

Why it’s a must-do: Villa Paloma, with its stunning contemporary architecture and sculpture garden, often hosts groundbreaking exhibitions by international artists. Villa Sauber, a Belle Époque townhouse, offers a more intimate setting for exploring historical collections, temporary exhibitions, and often features engaging multimedia displays. Exploring these two gems provides a deeper understanding of Monaco’s cultural fabric, showcasing a dynamic and evolving artistic identity that might surprise you.


4. Savor Local Flavors: A Culinary Journey Through the Condamine Market

While Michelin-starred restaurants are plentiful, for a true taste of Monaco’s everyday life and authentic flavours, head to the vibrant Condamine Market (Marché de la Condamine). This bustling open-air and covered market is a sensory delight, offering a glimpse into the local culinary scene.

Why it’s a must-do: Forget tourist traps; here you’ll find fresh produce, local delicacies, and a genuine community atmosphere. Sample Socca (a delicious chickpea pancake), indulge in freshly baked Fougasse, or simply grab a coffee and people-watch as locals shop for their daily ingredients. It’s an opportunity to connect with the heart of Monaco, to taste its heritage, and to discover culinary gems that are far from the tourist trail.


5. Embrace the Outdoors: A Coastal Ramble to the Exotic Garden’s Secret Trails

The Jardin Exotique is famous for its breathtaking collection of succulents and its stunning views. However, many visitors stick to the main paths. Those willing to explore a little further will discover a network of less-trafficked trails that lead to hidden grottos and offer even more secluded viewpoints.

Why it’s a must-do: Beyond the cacti and the impressive cave dwelling, these winding paths lead you through a microclimate of unique flora, offering moments of quiet contemplation amidst nature’s artistry. Discover hidden nooks with unparalleled views of the bay, and feel a sense of discovery as you navigate these less-worn routes. It’s an opportunity to experience the natural beauty of the region away from the crowds, breathing in the fragrant air and enjoying a more intimate connection with the landscape.


Monte Carlo is a destination that rewards curiosity. By venturing beyond the iconic landmarks and embracing these less-travelled paths, you’ll unlock a richer, more authentic, and ultimately, more unforgettable experience. So, pack your sense of adventure and get ready to discover a whole new side of this legendary principality.

What are your favourite “off the beaten path” spots in Monte Carlo? Share your hidden gems in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Belfast

Beyond the Titanic: Five Unexpected Delights on Belfast’s Road Less Travelled

Belfast. The name often conjures images of the magnificent Titanic, its grand harbour, and perhaps a sprinkle of its complex history. And while these are undeniably essential stops, the real magic of Belfast, for those willing to venture off the beaten path, lies in its hidden gems and emerging experiences.

If you’ve “done” the Titanic and are looking for an authentic taste of this vibrant city, then strap in. We’re taking a detour down the roads less travelled to uncover the next five must-do’s and must-see’s in Belfast.

1. Dive into the Digital World at the Ulster Museum’s New Interactive Zones

While the Ulster Museum has always been a treasure trove of art, history, and natural sciences, it’s been quietly upping its game for the digital age. Forget dusty displays; venture into their newly developed interactive zones. These aren’t just for kids, though they’ll certainly love them! Imagine stepping into a virtual reality reconstruction of ancient Ulster, or engaging with cutting-edge exhibits on the science of sound and light through hands-on digital interfaces. It’s a dynamic and engaging way to connect with heritage and innovation, proving that learning can be as exciting as any adventure.

2. Explore the Artisanal Delights of the Cathedral Quarter’s Hidden Alleys

Beyond the buzzing pubs and restaurants of the Cathedral Quarter, lies a labyrinth of charming, often overlooked alleyways and courtyards. This is where Belfast’s creative pulse truly beats. Seek out independent galleries showcasing local artists, discover quirky vintage boutiques tucked away from the main drag, and stumble upon intimate coffee shops serving up exceptional brews. Keep an eye out for vibrant street art that adorns the brickwork, transforming these forgotten corners into open-air galleries. It’s an exploration that rewards patience and a keen eye for detail.

3. Get Your Hands Dirty at a Local Food Growing Project or Urban Farm

Belfast, like many modern cities, is embracing sustainability and local produce with open arms. The “road less travelled” here involves connecting with the city’s green initiatives. Look for opportunities to visit or even volunteer at a local food growing project or an urban farm. These spaces are more than just patches of land; they are community hubs fostering a deeper connection to where our food comes from. Learn about organic farming, taste freshly harvested produce, and engage with the passionate individuals who are nurturing these vital green spaces within the urban landscape. It’s a refreshing and grounding experience.

4. Uncover the Stories on the Outskirts: The Belfast Peace Walls and Community Art Tours

While the iconic Peace Walls are a significant part of Belfast’s history, venturing further afield offers a more nuanced and personal perspective. Instead of a standard tour, opt for a community-led tour focusing on the art and stories that have emerged from these areas. These tours are often run by people who have lived through the Troubles, offering raw, honest, and incredibly moving accounts. You’ll witness powerful murals that have become symbols of hope and resilience, and gain a profound understanding of the ongoing journey towards reconciliation. It’s a challenging but essential experience for anyone seeking to truly understand Belfast.

5. Experience the Buzz of a Local Gig in an Unconventional Venue

Belfast has a thriving music scene, but the real gems are often found outside the mainstream venues. Seek out local gigs in unconventional spaces. Think intimate pubs with a dedicated live music night, community centres hosting emerging bands, or even pop-up events in repurposed warehouses. This is where you’ll discover the authentic, raw talent that defines Belfast’s musical soul. The atmosphere is electric, the music is diverse, and the experience is infinitely more memorable than a crowded arena.

Belfast is a city that rewards curiosity. By stepping off the well-trodden tourist trails, you unlock a richer, more authentic, and deeply rewarding experience. So, next time you find yourself in this captivating city, dare to take the road less travelled. You might just discover your new favourite story, your most inspiring artwork, or your most unforgettable moment.

What are your favourite hidden gems in Belfast? Share them in the comments below!

An excerpt from “Mistaken Identity” – a work in progress

The odds of any one of us having a doppelganger are quite high. Whether or not you got to meet them or be confronted by them was significantly lower. Except, of course, unless you are a celebrity.

It was a phenomenon remarkable only for the fact that, at times, certain high-profile people, notorious or not, had doubles if only to put off enemies or the general public. Sometimes we see people in the street who look like someone we knew and make the mistake of approaching them like a long-lost friend, only to discover an embarrassed individual desperately trying to get away from what they perceive as a stalker, or worse.

And then sometimes it is a picture that looms up on a TV screen, an almost exact likeness of you. At first, you are fascinated, and then, according to the circumstances and narrative that is attached to that picture, either flattered or horrified.

For me, one turned to the other when I saw an almost likeness of me flash up on the screen when I turned the TV on in my room. What looked to be my photo, with only minor differences, was in the corner of the screen, the newsreader speaking in rapid Italian, so fast I could only translate every second or third word.

But the one word I did recognise was murder. The photo of the man on the screen was the subject of an extensive manhunt. The crime, the murder of a woman in the very same hotel I was staying, and it was being played out live several floors above me. The gist of the story, the woman had been seen with and staying with the man who was my double, and, less than an hour ago, the body had been discovered by a chambermaid.

The killer, the announcer said, was believed to be still in the hotel because the woman had died shortly before she had been discovered.

I watched, at first fascinated by what I was seeing. I guess I should have been horrified, but at that moment it didn’t register that I might be mistaken for that man.

Not until another five minutes had passed, and I was watching the police in full riot gear, with a camera crew following behind, coming up a passage towards a room. Live action of the arrest of the suspected killer, the breathless commentator said.

Then, suddenly, there was a pounding on the door. On the TV screen, plain to see, was the number of my room. I looked through the peephole and saw an army of police officers. It didn’t take much to realise what had happened. The hotel staff identified me as the man in the photograph on the TV and called the police.

Horrified wasn’t what I was feeling right then.

It was fear.

My last memory was the door crashing open, the wood splintering, and men rushing into the room, screaming at me, waving guns, and when I put my hands up to defend myself, I heard a gunshot.

And in one very confused and probably near-death experience, I thought I saw my mother and thought what was she doing in Rome?

I was the archetypal nobody.

I lived in a small flat, I drove a nondescript car, had an average job in a low-profile travel agency, was single, and currently not involved in a relationship, had no children, and, according to my workmates, no life.

They were wrong. I was one of those people who preferred their own company; I had a cat, and travelled whenever I could. And I did have a ‘thing’ for Rosalie, one of the reasons why I stayed at the travel agency. I didn’t expect anything to come of it, but one could always hope.

I was both pleased and excited to be going to the conference. It was my first, and the glimpse I had seen of it had whetted my appetite for more information about the nuances of my profession.

Some would say that a travel agent wasn’t much of a job, but to me, it was every bit as demanding as being an accountant or a lawyer. You were providing a customer with a service, and arguably, more people needed a travel agent than a lawyer. At least that was what I told myself as I watched more and more people start using the internet, and our relevance slowly dissipating.

This conference was about countering that trend.

The trip over had been uneventful. I was met at the airport and taken to the hotel where the conference was being held with several other delegates who had arrived on the same plane. I had mingled with several other delegates at the pre-conference get-together, including one whose name was Maryanne.

She was an unusual young woman, not the sort that I usually met, because she was the one who was usually surrounded by all the boys, the life of the party. In normal circumstances, I would not have introduced myself to her, but she had approached me. Why did I think that may have been significant? All of this ran through my mind, culminating in the last event on the highlight reel, the door bursting open, men rushing into my room, and then one of the policemen opened fire.

I replayed that last scene again, trying to see the face of my assailant, but it was just a sea of men in battle dress, bulletproof vests and helmets, accompanied by screaming and yelling, some of which I identified as “Get on the floor”.

Then came the shot.

Why ask me to get on the floor if all they were going to do was shoot me? I was putting my hands up at the time, in surrender, not reaching for a weapon.

Then I saw the face again, hovering in the background like a ghost. My mother. Only the hair was different, and her clothes, and then the image was going, perhaps a figment of my imagination brought on by pain-killing drugs. I tried to imagine the scene again, but this time it played out without the image of my mother.

I opened my eyes and took stock of my surroundings. What I felt in that exact moment couldn’t be described. I should most likely be dead, the result of a gunshot wound. I guess I should be thankful the shooter hadn’t aimed at anything vital, but that was the only item on the plus side.

I was in a hospital room with a policeman by the door. He was reading a newspaper and sitting uncomfortably on a small chair. He gave me a quick glance when he heard me move slightly, but didn’t acknowledge me with either a nod or a greeting, just went back to the paper.

If I still had a police guard, then I would still be considered a suspect. What was interesting was that I was not handcuffed to the bed. Perhaps that only happened in TV shows. Or maybe they knew I couldn’t run because my injuries were too serious. Or the guard would shoot me long before my feet hit the floor. I knew the police well enough now to know they would shoot first and ask questions later.

On the physical side, I had a large bandage over the top left corner of my chest, extending over my shoulder. A little poking and prodding determined the bullet had hit somewhere between the top of my rib cage and my shoulder. Nothing vital there, but my arm might be somewhat useless for a while, depending on what the bullet hit on the way in or through.

It didn’t feel like there were any broken or damaged bones.

That was the good news.

On the other side of the ledger, my mental state, there was only one word that could describe it. Terrified. I was looking at a murder charge and jail time, a lot of it. Murder usually had a long time in jail attached to it.

Whatever had happened, I didn’t do it. I know I didn’t do it, but I had to try to explain this to people who had already made up their minds. I searched my mind for evidence. It was there, but in the confused state brought on by the medication, all I could think about was jail, and the sort of company I was going to have.

I think death would have been preferable.

Half an hour later, maybe longer, I was drifting in and out of consciousness. A nurse, or what I thought was a nurse, came into the room. The guard stood, checked her ID card, and then stood by the door.

She came over and stood beside the bed. “How are you?” she asked, first in Italian, and when I pretended I didn’t understand, she asked the same question in accented English.

“Alive, I guess,” I said. “No one has come and told me what my condition is yet. You are my first visitor. Can you tell me?”

“Of course. You are very lucky to be alive. You will be fine and make a full recovery. The doctors here are excellent at their work.”

“What happens now?”

“I check you, and then you have another visitor. He is from the British Embassy, I think. But he will have to wait until I have finished my examination.”

I realised then she was a doctor, not a nurse.

My second visitor was a man, dressed in a suit, the sort of which I associated with the British Civil Service.  He was not very old, which told me he was probably a recent graduate on his first posting, the junior officer who drew the short straw.

The guard checked his ID but again did not leave the room, sitting back down and going back to his newspaper.

My visitor introduced himself as Alex Jordan from the British Embassy in Rome, and he had been asked by the Ambassador to sort out what he labelled a tricky mess.

For starters, it was good to see that someone cared about what happened to me.  But, equally, I knew the mantra, get into trouble overseas, and there is not much we can do to help you.  So, after that lengthy introduction, I had to wonder why he was here.

I said, “They think I am an international criminal by the name of Jacob Westerbury, whose picture looks just like me, and apparently, for them, it is an open and shut case.”  I could still hear the fragments of the yelling as the police burst through the door, at the same time telling me to get on the floor with my hands over my head.

“It’s not.  They know they’ve got the wrong man, which is why I’m here.  There is the issue of what had been described as excessive force, and the fact that you were shot had made it an all-around embarrassment for them.”

“Then why are you here?  Shouldn’t they be here apologising?”

“That is why you have another visitor.  I only took precedence because I insisted on speaking with you first.  I have come, basically, to ask you for a favour.  This situation has afforded us an opportunity.  We would like you to sign the official document, which basically indemnifies them against any legal proceedings.”

Curious.  What sort of opportunity was he talking about?  Was this a matter that could get difficult and I could be charged by the Italian Government, even if I wasn’t guilty, or was it one of those hush-hush type deals, you do this for us, we’ll help you out with that?  “What sort of opportunity?”

“We want to get our hands on Jacob Westerbury as much as they do.  They’ve made a mistake, and we’d like to use that to get custody of him if or when he is arrested in this country.  I’m sure you would also like this man brought into custody as soon as possible, so you will stop being confused with him.  I can only imagine what it was like to be arrested in the manner you were.  And I would not blame you if you wanted to get some compensation for what they’ve done.  But.  There are bigger issues in play here, and you would be doing this for your country.”

I wondered what would happen if I didn’t agree to his proposal.  I had to ask, “What if I don’t?”

His expression didn’t change.  “I’m sure you are a sensible man, Mr Pargeter, who is more than willing to help his country whenever he can.  They have agreed to take care of all your hospital expenses, refund the cost of the Conference, and travel.  I’m sure I could also get them to pay for a few days at Capri or Sorrento, if you like, before you go home.  What do you say?”

There was only one thing I could say.  Wasn’t it treason if you went against your country’s wishes?

“I’m not an unreasonable man, Alex.  Go do your deal, and I’ll sign the papers.”

“Good man.”

After Alex left, the doctor came back to announce the arrival of a woman, who had announced herself as the publicity officer from the Italian police. When she came into the room, she was not dressed in a uniform.

The doctor left after giving a brief report to the civilian at the door. I understood the gist of it: “The patient has recovered excellently, and the wounds are healing as expected. There is no cause for concern.”

That was a relief.

While the doctor was speaking to the civilian, I speculated on who she might be. She was young, not more than thirty, conservatively dressed, so an official of some kind, but not necessarily with the police. Did they have prosecutors? I was unfamiliar with the Italian legal system.

She had long, wavy black hair and the sort of sultry looks of an Italian movie star, and her presence made me more curious than fearful, though I couldn’t say why.

The woman then spoke to the guard, and he reluctantly got up and left the room, closing the door behind him. She checked the door and then came back towards me, standing at the end of the bed. Now alone, she said, “A few questions before we begin.” Her English was only slightly accented. “Your name is Jack Pargeter?”

I nodded. “Yes.”

“You are in Rome to attend the Travel Agents Conference at the Hilton Hotel?”

“Yes.”

“You attended a preconference introduction on the evening of the 25th, after arriving from London at approximately 4:25 pm.”

“About that time, yes. I know it was about five when the bus came to collect me, and several others, to take us to the hotel.”

She smiled. It was then that I noticed she was reading from a small notepad.

“It was ten past five to be precise. The driver had been held up in traffic. We have several witnesses who saw you on the plane, on the bus, at the hotel, and with the aid of closed-circuit TV, we have established you are not the criminal Jacob Westerbury.”

She put her notebook back in her bag and then said, “My name is Vicenza Andretti, and I am with the prosecutor’s office. I am here to formally apologise for the situation that can only be described as a case of mistaken identity. I assure you, it is not the habit of our police officers to shoot people unless they have a very strong reason for doing so. I understand that in the confusion of the arrest, one of our officers accidentally discharged his weapon. We are undergoing a very thorough investigation into the circumstances of this event.”

I was not sure why, but between the time I had spoken to the embassy official and now, something about letting them off so easily was bugging me. I could see why they had sent her. It would be difficult to be angry or annoyed with her.

But I was annoyed.

“Do you often send a whole squad of trigger-happy riot police to arrest a single man?” It came out harsher than I intended.

“My men believed they were dealing with a dangerous criminal.”

“Do I look like a dangerous criminal?” And then I realised if it was mistaken identity, the answer would be yes.

She saw the look on my face and said quietly, “I think you know the answer to that question, Mr Pargeter.”

“Well, it was overkill.”

“As I said, we are very sorry for the circumstances you now find yourself in. You must understand that we honestly believed we were dealing with an armed and dangerous murderer, and we were acting within our mandate. My department will cover your medical expenses and any other amounts for the inconvenience this has caused you. I believe you were attending a conference at your hotel. I am very sorry, but given the medical circumstances you have, you will have to remain here for a few more days.”

“I guess, then, I should thank you for not killing me.”

Her expression told me that was not the best thing I could have said in the circumstances.

“I mean, I should thank you for the hospital and the care. But a question or two of my own. May I?”

She nodded.

“Did you catch this Jacob Westerbury character?”

“No. In the confusion created by your arrest, he escaped. Once we realised we had made a mistake and reviewed the closed-circuit TV, we tracked him leaving by a rear exit.”

“Are you sure it was one of your men who shot me?”

I watched as her expression changed to one of surprise.

“You don’t think it was one of my men?”

“Oddly enough, no. But don’t ask me why.”

“It is very interesting that you should say that, because in our initial investigation, it appeared none of our officers’ weapons had been discharged. A forensic investigation into the bullet tells us it was one that is used in our weapons, but…”

I could see their dilemma.

“Have you any enemies that would want to shoot you, Mr Pargeter?”

That was absurd because I had no enemies, at least none that I knew of, much less anyone who would want me dead.

“Not that I’m aware of.”

“Then it is strange, and will perhaps remain a mystery. I will let you know if anything more is revealed in our investigation.”

She took an envelope out of her briefcase and opened it, pulling out several sheets of paper.

I knew what it was. A verbal apology was one thing, but a signed waiver would cover them legally. They had sent a pretty girl to charm me. Perhaps using anyone else would not have worked. There was potential for a huge litigation payout here, and someone more ruthless would jump at the chance of making a few million out of the Italian Government.

“We need a signature on this document,” she said.

“Absolving you of any wrongdoing?”

“I have apologised. We will take whatever measures are required for your comfort after this event. We are accepting responsibility for our actions and are being reasonable.”

They were. I took the pen from her and signed the documents.

“You couldn’t add dinner with you on that list of benefits?” No harm in asking.

“I am unfortunately unavailable.”

I smiled. “It wasn’t a request for a date, just dinner. You can tell me about Rome, as only a resident can. Please.”

She looked me up and down, searching for the ulterior motive. When she couldn’t find one, she said, “We shall see once the hospital discharges you in a few days.”

“Then I’ll pencil you in?”

She looked at me quizzically. “What is this pencil me in?”

“It’s an English colloquialism. It means maybe. As when you write something in pencil, it is easy to erase it.”

A momentary frown, then recognition and a smile. “I shall remember that. Thank you for your time and cooperation, Mr Pargeter. Good morning.”

© Charles Heath 2015-2021

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Belfast

Beyond the Titanic: Five Unexpected Delights on Belfast’s Road Less Travelled

Belfast. The name often conjures images of the magnificent Titanic, its grand harbour, and perhaps a sprinkle of its complex history. And while these are undeniably essential stops, the real magic of Belfast, for those willing to venture off the beaten path, lies in its hidden gems and emerging experiences.

If you’ve “done” the Titanic and are looking for an authentic taste of this vibrant city, then strap in. We’re taking a detour down the roads less travelled to uncover the next five must-do’s and must-see’s in Belfast.

1. Dive into the Digital World at the Ulster Museum’s New Interactive Zones

While the Ulster Museum has always been a treasure trove of art, history, and natural sciences, it’s been quietly upping its game for the digital age. Forget dusty displays; venture into their newly developed interactive zones. These aren’t just for kids, though they’ll certainly love them! Imagine stepping into a virtual reality reconstruction of ancient Ulster, or engaging with cutting-edge exhibits on the science of sound and light through hands-on digital interfaces. It’s a dynamic and engaging way to connect with heritage and innovation, proving that learning can be as exciting as any adventure.

2. Explore the Artisanal Delights of the Cathedral Quarter’s Hidden Alleys

Beyond the buzzing pubs and restaurants of the Cathedral Quarter, lies a labyrinth of charming, often overlooked alleyways and courtyards. This is where Belfast’s creative pulse truly beats. Seek out independent galleries showcasing local artists, discover quirky vintage boutiques tucked away from the main drag, and stumble upon intimate coffee shops serving up exceptional brews. Keep an eye out for vibrant street art that adorns the brickwork, transforming these forgotten corners into open-air galleries. It’s an exploration that rewards patience and a keen eye for detail.

3. Get Your Hands Dirty at a Local Food Growing Project or Urban Farm

Belfast, like many modern cities, is embracing sustainability and local produce with open arms. The “road less travelled” here involves connecting with the city’s green initiatives. Look for opportunities to visit or even volunteer at a local food growing project or an urban farm. These spaces are more than just patches of land; they are community hubs fostering a deeper connection to where our food comes from. Learn about organic farming, taste freshly harvested produce, and engage with the passionate individuals who are nurturing these vital green spaces within the urban landscape. It’s a refreshing and grounding experience.

4. Uncover the Stories on the Outskirts: The Belfast Peace Walls and Community Art Tours

While the iconic Peace Walls are a significant part of Belfast’s history, venturing further afield offers a more nuanced and personal perspective. Instead of a standard tour, opt for a community-led tour focusing on the art and stories that have emerged from these areas. These tours are often run by people who have lived through the Troubles, offering raw, honest, and incredibly moving accounts. You’ll witness powerful murals that have become symbols of hope and resilience, and gain a profound understanding of the ongoing journey towards reconciliation. It’s a challenging but essential experience for anyone seeking to truly understand Belfast.

5. Experience the Buzz of a Local Gig in an Unconventional Venue

Belfast has a thriving music scene, but the real gems are often found outside the mainstream venues. Seek out local gigs in unconventional spaces. Think intimate pubs with a dedicated live music night, community centres hosting emerging bands, or even pop-up events in repurposed warehouses. This is where you’ll discover the authentic, raw talent that defines Belfast’s musical soul. The atmosphere is electric, the music is diverse, and the experience is infinitely more memorable than a crowded arena.

Belfast is a city that rewards curiosity. By stepping off the well-trodden tourist trails, you unlock a richer, more authentic, and deeply rewarding experience. So, next time you find yourself in this captivating city, dare to take the road less travelled. You might just discover your new favourite story, your most inspiring artwork, or your most unforgettable moment.

What are your favourite hidden gems in Belfast? Share them in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Amsterdam

Beyond the Canals: Amsterdam’s Unbeaten Path – Top 5 Surprises Await!

Amsterdam. The very name conjures images of charming canals, tulip-filled fields, and the intoxicating allure of the Red Light District. And while these are undeniably iconic, this vibrant city offers so much more for the curious traveler willing to step off the well-trodden tourist highway. If you’re looking for an authentic Amsterdam experience, one that whispers secrets rather than shouts them, then buckle up. We’re venturing onto the road less traveled, and here are the top five hidden gems that are begging to be discovered:

1. Dive into the Depths of History at the Resistance Museum (Verzetsmuseum)

Forget the crowded Anne Frank House (though it remains a powerful experience). For a profoundly moving and comprehensive look at the Dutch spirit during World War II, the Resistance Museum is an absolute must. Housed in a grand building, this museum goes beyond personal stories to illustrate the ingenuity, bravery, and sheer determination of ordinary citizens who defied the Nazi occupation. Through immersive exhibits, personal artifacts, and compelling narratives, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of the complex realities of life under occupation. It’s a more nuanced and less overwhelming perspective that will leave a lasting impression.

2. Wander Through the Enchanting “Nine Streets” (De Negen Straatjes) – A Shopper’s Secret Sanctuary

While the Kalverstraat is synonymous with mainstream shopping, the Nine Streets offer a completely different, and infinitely more charming, retail therapy experience. Nestled between the main canals, these nine narrow, interconnected streets are a labyrinth of independent boutiques, vintage shops, quirky galleries, and cozy cafés. You’ll find unique fashion finds, handcrafted jewelry, vintage treasures, and artisanal delights that you won’t see anywhere else. It’s the perfect place to get lost, discover hidden gems, and soak in the authentic Amsterdam vibe, far from the selfie-stick wielding crowds.

3. Escape to the Green Oasis of Westerpark

Need a respite from the urban bustle? Look no further than Westerpark. This former industrial site has been transformed into a sprawling, vibrant park that’s a beloved local haunt. It’s not just about green spaces; Westerpark is a hub of creativity and culture. Explore the re-purposed factory buildings that now house art studios, performance spaces, and trendy restaurants and bars. During warmer months, it’s the perfect spot for a picnic, a bike ride, or to simply relax by the water. Keep an eye out for events, outdoor cinema screenings, and lively markets that often pop up here.

4. Savor the Flavors of Amsterdam Noord: A Transformative Waterfront

Across the IJ River, a whole new world of Amsterdam awaits in Amsterdam Noord. A short (and free!) ferry ride from behind Centraal Station will transport you to this rapidly developing district. Once an industrial wasteland, Noord is now a playground of innovation and creativity. Marvel at the striking architecture of the EYE Film Museum, ascend the A’DAM Lookout for breathtaking panoramic views (and a thrilling swing!), or explore the eclectic street art and independent eateries. This is where local life thrives, offering a glimpse into a more contemporary and edgy side of the city.

5. Uncover Artistic Treasures at the Hermitage Amsterdam

While the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum are world-renowned, the Hermitage Amsterdam often flies under the radar but consistently delivers exceptional exhibitions. This branch of the famed St. Petersburg museum showcases a diverse range of art and artifacts, often from its vast permanent collection or through collaborations with other international institutions. You might find anything from Dutch Masters to contemporary art, historical artifacts, or fascinating cultural displays. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience world-class art in a less crowded and more intimate setting, offering a refreshing artistic detour.

Amsterdam is a city that rewards the intrepid. By venturing slightly off the beaten path, you’ll discover a richer, more authentic experience that goes far beyond the postcards. So, next time you find yourself in this captivating Dutch capital, dare to explore the road less travelled. You might just be surprised by what treasures you uncover.

What are your favorite hidden gems in Amsterdam? Share them in the comments below!

I scored a window seat – it’s like winning the lottery

So, what do you do when you finally win the lottery?

Well, not the monetary one, the aeroplane one, where you get a window seat, and a window seat you can actually see out of?

Because most of them are not aligned with the windows.  I remember drawing a window seat a while back, but …. you guessed it, there wasn’t a window.

I mean, really!

But now you have one, what do you do?

I’ve seen a lot of window seat travellers pull down the blinds to block out the view.  Seriously?  It’s obvious they travel a lot and have seen everything there is to see.  Why they would want a window seat is beyond me.

Like would they be looking for a lightning bolt to hit the wing tip?  An engine falling off?  Another plane flying too close alongside, like a menacing jet fighter?

Not today.  Not flying near a restricted airspace or a foreign border.  Just going from one state to another, out of Melbourne, on our way to Brisbane.

I look at clouds, check every so often that the engine is still there, watch the wings flex, or the flaps move.

The last time I had a window seat, we arrived in Brisbane from the ocean, and the plane got awfully close to the water on its final run to the runway.

This time it was over the bridges after flying past the city, and over the Brisbane River.

20200218_154104

Sometimes you can see cruise ships.  There might not be another one of those for a long time to come.

And, yes, the engine is still there.

It was an uneventful flight, but I took a lot of photos anyway.  The grandchildren like looking at oddly shaped clouds.

 

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Amsterdam

Beyond the Canals: Amsterdam’s Unbeaten Path – Top 5 Surprises Await!

Amsterdam. The very name conjures images of charming canals, tulip-filled fields, and the intoxicating allure of the Red Light District. And while these are undeniably iconic, this vibrant city offers so much more for the curious traveller willing to step off the well-trodden tourist highway. If you’re looking for an authentic Amsterdam experience, one that whispers secrets rather than shouts them, then buckle up. We’re venturing onto the road less travelled, and here are the top five hidden gems that are begging to be discovered:

1. Dive into the Depths of History at the Resistance Museum (Verzetsmuseum)

Forget the crowded Anne Frank House (though it remains a powerful experience). For a profoundly moving and comprehensive look at the Dutch spirit during World War II, the Resistance Museum is an absolute must. Housed in a grand building, this museum goes beyond personal stories to illustrate the ingenuity, bravery, and sheer determination of ordinary citizens who defied the Nazi occupation. Through immersive exhibits, personal artifacts, and compelling narratives, you’ll gain a deeper understanding of the complex realities of life under occupation. It’s a more nuanced and less overwhelming perspective that will leave a lasting impression.

2. Wander Through the Enchanting “Nine Streets” (De Negen Straatjes) – A Shopper’s Secret Sanctuary

While the Kalverstraat is synonymous with mainstream shopping, the Nine Streets offer a completely different, and infinitely more charming, retail therapy experience. Nestled between the main canals, these nine narrow, interconnected streets are a labyrinth of independent boutiques, vintage shops, quirky galleries, and cozy cafés. You’ll find unique fashion finds, handcrafted jewellery, vintage treasures, and artisanal delights that you won’t see anywhere else. It’s the perfect place to get lost, discover hidden gems, and soak in the authentic Amsterdam vibe, far from the selfie-stick wielding crowds.

3. Escape to the Green Oasis of Westerpark

Need a respite from the urban bustle? Look no further than Westerpark. This former industrial site has been transformed into a sprawling, vibrant park that’s a beloved local haunt. It’s not just about green spaces; Westerpark is a hub of creativity and culture. Explore the re-purposed factory buildings that now house art studios, performance spaces, and trendy restaurants and bars. During warmer months, it’s the perfect spot for a picnic, a bike ride, or to simply relax by the water. Keep an eye out for events, outdoor cinema screenings, and lively markets that often pop up here.

4. Savour the Flavours of Amsterdam Noord: A Transformative Waterfront

Across the IJ River, a whole new world of Amsterdam awaits in Amsterdam Noord. A short (and free!) ferry ride from behind Centraal Station will transport you to this rapidly developing district. Once an industrial wasteland, Noord is now a playground of innovation and creativity. Marvel at the striking architecture of the EYE Film Museum, ascend the A’DAM Lookout for breathtaking panoramic views (and a thrilling swing!), or explore the eclectic street art and independent eateries. This is where local life thrives, offering a glimpse into a more contemporary and edgy side of the city.

5. Uncover Artistic Treasures at the Hermitage Amsterdam

While the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum are world-renowned, the Hermitage Amsterdam often flies under the radar but consistently delivers exceptional exhibitions. This branch of the famed St. Petersburg museum showcases a diverse range of art and artifacts, often from its vast permanent collection or through collaborations with other international institutions. You might find anything from Dutch Masters to contemporary art, historical artifacts, or fascinating cultural displays. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience world-class art in a less crowded and more intimate setting, offering a refreshing artistic detour.

Amsterdam is a city that rewards the intrepid. By venturing slightly off the beaten path, you’ll discover a richer, more authentic experience that goes far beyond the postcards. So, next time you find yourself in this captivating Dutch capital, dare to explore the road less travelled. You might just be surprised by what treasures you uncover.

What are your favourite hidden gems in Amsterdam? Share them in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Brussels

Experiential Counter-Mapping: Identifying the Next Five Nodes of Authentic Discovery in Brussels, Beyond the Touristic Saturation

Abstract

Traditional tourism models often lead to the homogenization of urban experience, obscuring authentic local narratives in favour of standardised, high-volume attractions. This paper critiques this phenomenon within the context of Brussels, a city frequently reduced to political (EU) and monumental (Grand-Place) iconography. Employing a methodology rooted in spatial critique and experiential archaeology, this study identifies five critical nodes of engagement that constitute the ‘road less travelled.’ These locations—the Cauchie House, the Abattoir Market of Anderlecht, the Cemetery of Laeken, the Riches Claires Quarter, and the Museum of the Fantastic—are analysed for their capacity to foster a deeper ‘sense of place’ and provide counter-narratives to the dominant tourist script. The findings offer a functional counter-map for niche tourism research, urban cultural policy, and the traveller seeking genuine phenomenological immersion in Brussels’ complex identity.


1. Introduction: The Cartography of Obfuscation

The concept of the ‘road less travelled’ is a critical response to the spatial saturation characterising contemporary mass tourism (MacCannell, 1976). In major European capitals, the concentration of tourist movement inevitably produces an urban palimpsest where local life is marginalised by visitor infrastructure. Brussels, the de facto capital of the European Union, suffers from a duality: it is simultaneously intensely global and deeply localised, yet tourist flows rarely penetrate beyond the central polygon.

This paper addresses the gap between the celebrated icons of Brussels and its myriad authentic micro-environments. Our objective is to delineate five specific, non-obvious attractions that serve as points of resistance to touristic homogenization. These selections are chosen not merely for their novelty, but for their structural capacity to reveal historical, social, and architectural layers often invisible to the transient visitor. This research posits that true urban discovery requires an intentional shift from the consumption of spectacle to the immersion in marginal and historical spaces.

2. Theoretical Framework and Methodology

2.1 The Authentic and the Anti-Spectacle

The theoretical underpinning of this analysis draws heavily from the concepts of the Flâneur (Baudelaire; Benjamin, 1982), who navigates the urban space with deliberate aimlessness, and the pursuit of ‘authenticity’ (Wang, 1199). Authenticity here is defined not as an untouched, pristine state, but as a space where local residents predominantly shape the environment and narrative, minimising the performative elements designed solely for the external gaze.

Furthermore, the paper utilises the concept of heterotopia (Foucault, 1986)—spaces that function as counter-sites, mirroring and yet contesting the spaces around them. The identified locations are heterotopic in nature, offering temporary escapes from the normative routes of the city.

2.2 Selection Criteria

The five locations were chosen based on a qualitative multi-criteria assessment designed to prioritise genuine local context and historical depth over ease of access or mainstream popularity:

  1. Low Visibility Index (LVI): Minimal mention in standard commercial guidebooks (LVI > 0.8).
  2. High Local Density (HLD): Spaces primarily utilised by residents for daily life, commerce, or reflection (HLD > 0.7).
  3. Architectural or Historical Singularity: Possessing a unique, specific lineage or design that deviates from generic European norms.
  4. Sensory Richness: Providing diverse inputs (smell, sound, social texture) is essential for embodied urban phenomenology.

3. Findings: The Five Nodes of Brussel’s Counter-Map

The following five destinations represent significant departures from the conventional Brussels itinerary, offering profound opportunities for experiential engagement.

3.1 Node 1: The Cauchie House (Maison Cauchie) – Art Nouveau/Déco Transition

Located in the Etterbeek municipality, the Cauchie House stands as a monument to the Belgian Art Nouveau and nascent Art Déco movements, yet remains largely unknown outside specialized architectural circles. Designed and inhabited by architect Paul Cauchie in 1905, the façade is a sophisticated canvas of allegorical sgraffito, a technique where a surface layer is scratched away to reveal colored layers beneath.

Unlike the readily accessible works of Victor Horta, the Cauchie House is characterised by its domestic scale and the intimate, often ephemeral, nature of its public access (typically open only one weekend per month). This forced scarcity elevates the site from mere attraction to an object of deliberate visitation, rewarding the traveller who pursues genuine architectural pilgrimage. It illuminates Brussels’ lesser-known role as a laboratory for early 20th-century design innovation, transcending the city’s medieval core narrative.

3.2 Node 2: The Anderlecht Abattoir Market (Marché des Abattoirs) – Economic Geography and Sensory Immersion

The Abattoir market, situated in the working-class Cureghem district of Anderlecht, is arguably the most visceral and powerful example of Brussels’ economic and cultural diversity. Operating chiefly on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, it functions as a critical nexus of commerce, history, and community life. The site encompasses the historical abattoir complex, protected by stunning 19th-century metalwork market halls.

This location presents a sharp contrast to the sanitised tourism of the centre. Researchers engaging with this space encounter a complex sensory environment characterised by multilingual chatter (often Arabic, Turkish, and French), and the raw economic exchange of food, livestock, and goods. It offers a vital counterpoint to the EU narrative, grounding the visitor in the immediate realities of contemporary urban provisioning and immigration-driven cultural shifts. Its exploration is a direct engagement with Brussels’ socio-economic periphery.

3.3 Node 3: The Cemetery of Laeken (Cimetière de Laeken) – Historical Reflection and Necropolis Art

While major cities possess cemeteries of note, the Cimetière de Laeken is distinct due to its historical connection to the Belgian monarchy (located adjacent to the Royal Domain) and its remarkable collection of funerary art, particularly the covered galleries and crypts. Often overshadowed by the better-known Père Lachaise in Paris, Laeken offers a serene, elevated space that synthesises social history and landscape architecture.

The centrepiece is the unique complex of underground galleries and the “Grotto of the Statue of the Dying Christ.” Visiting Laeken is a contemplative experience, offering panoramic views of the city that place the Royal Palace and Atomium in context. As a necropolis, it serves as a powerful historical archive, detailing the fortunes and failures of Brussels’ 19th and early 20th-century elite, away from the bustling urban center.

3.4 Node 4: The Riches Claires Quarter and the Béguinage Church – Urban Contradiction

The Riches Claires quarter (“Rijke Klaren”) lies just west of the Bourse, a micro-district often traversed but rarely explored. This area represents a complex urban palimpsest, juxtaposing historic poverty, bohemian chic, and architectural remnants. The focal point is the magnificent Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste au Béguinage (St. John the Baptist at the Beguinage).

This Baroque masterpiece, with its unusual triple-gable façade, stands hidden amongst highly dense, often gritty urban blocks. The Beguinage itself speaks to the historical organisation of religious and social life in Brussels, tracing a timeline from medieval seclusion to modern urban integration. Exploring this node highlights the abrupt shifts in Brussels’ social geography—walking from the highly polished central streets into the narrow, often shadowed alleys reveals the city’s inherent contradictions and layered history of settlement and displacement.

3.5 Node 5: The Museum of the Fantastic (Musée du Fantastique) – Niche Culture and Surrealism

Brussels is globally known for its embrace of surrealism (Magritte) and fantasy (comic art). However, the small, privately run Musée du Fantastique in the Saint-Gilles municipality offers an eccentric, curated deep dive into the world of fantastic art, myth, and the unusual. Its collection, housed in a modest residential building, focuses on the ephemeral, the folkloric, and the grotesque.

As a high-LVI, high-specificity institution, it provides a crucial counter-narrative to officially sanctioned cultural narratives. The museum’s scale and personal curation immerse the visitor in a space of concentrated imagination, reflecting the enduring local cultural appreciation for the bizarre and the slightly macabre—a tradition that extends from the Flemish Masters to post-war Belgian comics.

4. Conclusion: Implications for Experiential Urbanism

The identification of these five non-obvious destinations in Brussels provides empirical support for the theoretical assertion that authentic urban experience resides at the periphery of mainstream tourist infrastructure. The Cauchie House offers architectural intimacy; the Abattoir Market provides socio-economic immersion; Laeken offers historical reflection; the Riches Claires quarter reveals spatial contradiction; and the Museum of the Fantastic provides niche cultural insight.

For urban planners and tourism researchers, these findings underscore the need to promote distributed visitation models that leverage the cultural assets of diverse municipal districts (Etterbeek, Anderlecht, Laeken, Saint-Gilles). By intentionally decentralising experience, cities like Brussels can mitigate the pressures of overtourism in their historical centres while enriching the visitor’s perception of the city’s multifaceted identity. Ultimately, traversing the ‘road less travelled’ is not just a matter of finding new locations, but of adopting a methodological posture aligned with deep, contextual engagement.

Travelling after a pandemic: Destination Hobart – 6

Hobart in June – Winter – Day 6 – Thursday

The next day we try a different fish and chips vendor.  It was a good idea to go back to Mures and have the flathead, but I was foolish and wanted a different experience

And not be disappointed.

In the end, we selected Fishy Business

This order comprised battered flake, battered flathead, hoping that it would be similar to yesterday, sea scallops in batter, chips, two potato cakes, and tartar sauce.

The battered flake was excellent.

The battered flathead was scraps, three small pieces which were probably imported from Vietnam, definitely not fresh or local and, sadly, terrible.

The scallops were delicious.

The potato cakes were alright, but not strictly potato cakes, but the sort you get from a supplier.  The real potato cakes have batter around a thin slice of potato.  They had mashed potatoes, and the batter was not very nice.

For the price we paid, it was enough to say I’d never go back there again.  You’d think, as a place on the sea they could get it right, making the food themselves, but it gets a mega fail.  Only the flake was definitely local.

Maybe next time we’ll try Flippers.

Maybe.

There were other sights, and on the obligatory walk after eating, we came across a sailing ship

This ship is called the Windeward Bound,  a two-masted brigantine-rigged vessel, and for the sailing buffs, Windeward Bound is rigged with four square sails, three headsails, three staysails between the masts, a gaff mainsail and a gaff topsail, totalling 12 sails in all. The total sail area is 402 m2 (4,330 sq ft)

Later, we visited the Mawson Hut Replica Museum, and it is authentic in almost every detail. And amazing that 17 men could actually stay together in it and not feel claustrophobic.

It was an eerie experience and extremely interesting. I could not imagine myself staying in it down in Antarctica, in the freezing conditions.