Category: Review

NANOWRIMO – November 2025 – Day 26

…

The Third Son of a Duke

…

Back on the ship, a different ship, smaller but no less fast, our protagonist is going to Egypt, and joining the war via the Mena Camp, the place where many Australian soldiers passed through on their way to Gallipoli, and back again in injured, there or elsewhere in Egypt.

There were special operations of a sort, not on the same scale as in WW2, but the offices of which were in a hotel in Cairo, which to me seems about right.  If you’re going to do something, it should be done in style.

I have invented this mission, borne out of the plane ride our protagonist took from Winton to Brisbane, one that I’m sure the British already were doing in part, the aerial observation of the German lines and mapping the various sites for their guns to lay down a barrage.

His idea is to create, among what would seem to the Germans as a pre-eminent attack on their trenches, before the soldiers went over the top to attack.

That, of course, was a cause of many deaths, the machine guns waiting.

His idea was if anything novel and he was going to put it into practice.  After he undergoes more training, earns a commission, and gets attached to a squad of returning men, after rests in Egypt.  There are few left of the original group, and now bolstered with replacements, they battle hardened veterans are a battle-hardened group with stories to tell.

To be honest, after reading firsthand accounts, I don’t know how they survived, ot remained sane after the war ended.

…

1870 words, for a total of 43115 words.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Gibraltar

Beyond the Cable Car: 5 Hidden Gems on Gibraltar’s Road Less Travelled

Gibraltar. The name conjures images of majestic apes, historic sieges, and a giant limestone Rock rising dramatically from the sea. And while every visitor should absolutely ride the cable car and say hello to the famous Barbary Macaques, the true magic of the peninsula lies just slightly off the beaten path.

If you’ve taken the scenic route and arrived in Gibraltar ready for deeper exploration—the kind that moves beyond the immediate tourist hotspots—you are in luck.

For the adventurous traveller hitting the “road less travelled,” here are five exceptional experiences in Gibraltar that offer history, nature, and true local flavour.

1. Conquer the Mediterranean Steps

Most tourists ascend the Rock via the cable car or a minibus tour. The road less travelled? The Mediterranean Steps (or “Med Steps”). This is not a casual stroll; it is a challenging, historic, and utterly breathtaking climb.

Starting near Jew’s Gate at the southern end of the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, this 1,800-meter-long cliffside path winds along the eastern flank, utilizing old military communication lines. You will navigate steep, rugged trails, carved stone steps, and winding tunnels.

Why it’s a hidden gem: The Med Steps provide unparalleled views of the Strait of Gibraltar, the Spanish Costa del Sol, and the coast of North Africa. Because it is physically demanding, you will share the route primarily with dedicated hikers, offering moments of profound solitude far above the crowds. It’s a truly immersive historical and natural experience that bypasses the busiest attractions.

Pro Tip: Start early in the morning before the sun gets too high, and carry plenty of water. Access to the Upper Rock requires a Nature Reserve ticket.

2. Escape to the Alameda Botanic Gardens

After the intensity of climbing the Rock or navigating the bustling Main Street, every traveller needs an oasis of calm. The Alameda Botanic Gardens, situated just below the southern entrance to the city centre, is Gibraltar’s quiet, verdant answer.

Established in 1816 by the then Governor of Gibraltar, General Sir George Don, these gardens are a meticulously maintained subtropical paradise featuring exotic plants, ancient trees, and stunning water features. The atmosphere here is entirely different from the rest of Gibraltar—it’s peaceful, shady, and deeply romantic.

Why it’s a hidden gem: It’s often overlooked in favour of faster-paced attractions. Locals frequent the gardens, but few tourists allocate enough time to wander its many paths, discover the historic cannon displays, or simply listen to the fountains. It’s the perfect place to grab a coffee, sit beneath a giant dragon tree, and reflect on the history surrounding you.

3. Delve into the Depths of the WWII Tunnels

Everyone knows about the Great Siege Tunnels—an incredible feat of 18th-century engineering. But Gibraltar’s subterranean world expanded exponentially during World War II, and exploring the lesser-known WWII Tunnels offers a deeper, grittier historical perspective.

This extensive network, built to house an entire garrison and store massive amounts of supplies, tells the story of how the Rock served as a crucial nerve centre for Allied operations. These tunnels are a stark, fascinating maze where you can truly appreciate the strategic importance of Gibraltar.

Why it’s a hidden gem: While the Great Siege Tunnels are easier to access, the WWII tunnels provide a more immersive and less crowded experience. They vividly illustrate the scale of human effort needed to defend this small territory during global conflict. Look out for the old hospital wards and control centres—it feels like stepping into a preserved time capsule.

4. Experience the Local Charm of Catalan Bay (La Caleta)

Tucked away on the eastern side of the Rock, sheltered from the westerly winds and the main port activity, lies the vibrant, pastel-hued fishing village of Catalan Bay (La Caleta).

This beautiful cove is distinctly different from the rest of Gibraltar. Historically settled by Genoese fishermen in the 18th century, it has retained a unique, tight-knit community feel. The beach is wonderfully accessible, offering soft sand and clear waters, while the handful of traditional seafood restaurants provide some of the best, most authentic dining experiences on the peninsula.

Why it’s a hidden gem: It requires a short drive or bus journey away from the hustle of Main Street, meaning many day-trippers miss it entirely. If you want to sample fresh catch-of-the-day while enjoying a tranquil seaside atmosphere and watching the local families gather, this is your spot. It feels more Mediterranean resort than busy military outpost.

5. Take a Dolphin Safari in the Bay

While the Rock is Gibraltar’s defining geographical feature, its surrounding waters are rich with life. For a truly memorable and natural experience that moves the focus from the land to the sea, book a Dolphin Safari in the Bay of Gibraltar.

The Bay is one of the best locations in the world for spotting wild dolphins. Companies operate safe, ethical tours where you have an excellent chance of encountering large pods of Common, Striped, and Bottlenose dolphins feeding and playing near the Strait.

Why it’s a hidden gem: It offers a completely different perspective of Gibraltar—viewed from the water. More importantly, it’s a pure wildlife experience that connects you with the vibrant marine ecosystem of the Strait. Watching dozens of dolphins leaping and riding the wake of the boat is a breathtaking natural spectacle often overshadowed by the terrestrial attractions.

Ready to Trace the Road Less Travelled?

Gibraltar offers so much more than its famous profile suggests. By venturing beyond the immediate tourist circuit, you unlock layers of military history, natural beauty, and local charm that define this unique territory.

So pack your walking shoes, grab your camera, and prepare to discover the Gibraltar that many miss. Which hidden gem will you seek out first?

What are your favourite spots beyond the Apes? Share your Gibraltar hidden gems in the comments below!

NANOWRIMO – November 2025 – Day 25

…

The Third Son of a Duke

…

In all the investigation of Melbourne of 1915, the more I realised that if we never go looking, we will never find out what history is, what was good, what was bad, what were the prevailing attitudes of the time.

IT gives credence to a few odd sayings I’ve heard over time, ones that are viewed with a great deal of distaste these days, but fifty, seventy, eighty years ago, they were part of what we grew up with.

The thing is, women had it very tough.  That saying you hear a lot, even these days, is ‘it’s a man’s world’, and to a certain degree it is.  Back when I was looking, women could only work until they were married, when it was expected they would stay home, and, dare I say it, attend to the man’s needs.

I have a schoolbook of my mother’s, which she used in 1942, and the back pages are filled with notes on how she was supposed to attend to her husband’s needs.

I showed it to my granddaughters, and they were totally gobsmacked.

This is the thing about the past, and it can be a problem for writers who, if they do not know about the past, can make some fatal flaws in their writing, assuming today’s standards applied back then.

Also, back then, society was very judgmental about a woman’s virtue, and there was very little she could do without society frowning on her or turning her into a pariah.  This was much the same until the sixties, when a lot of that went out the window.

Back in 1915, wow, straight laces and very well behaved. 

However, I suspect, what went on behind closed doors was a different story.

…

1995 words, for a total of 41245 words.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Barcelona

Beyond the Gaudi Glow: 5 Barcelona Gems Off the Beaten Path

Barcelona. The name conjures images of soaring Sagrada Familia, vibrant Las Ramblas, and the sun-drenched beaches of Barceloneta. And while these iconic sights are undeniably spectacular, there’s a whole other layer to this Catalan capital waiting to be discovered by those willing to venture a little further. If you’re tired of jostling for elbow room and crave a taste of authentic Barcelona, this list of five things to do on the road less travelled is for you.

1. Get Lost (and Found) in Gràcia’s Bohemian Labyrinth

Step away from the Gothic Quarter’s throngs and find yourself in the charming neighbourhood of Gràcia. Once a separate town, Gràcia retains its distinct village feel with a network of narrow, winding streets, hidden plazas, and a wonderfully bohemian atmosphere. Spend an afternoon simply wandering. You’ll stumble upon independent boutiques, artisan workshops, and inviting cafes where locals gather. Don’t miss Plaça del Sol or Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia – perfect spots to sip a coffee and people-watch. In the evening, Gràcia truly comes alive with its array of tapas bars and intimate restaurants, offering a more local and affordable dining experience.

2. Ascend to the Untamed Beauty of Parc del Laberint d’Horta

While Park Güell gets all the glory for its whimsical mosaics, Barcelona’s oldest garden, Parc del Laberint d’Horta, offers a more serene and romantic escape. This neoclassical gem boasts a breathtaking cypress maze that’s a delight to navigate. Beyond the labyrinth, discover neoclassical sculptures, hidden grottoes, peaceful ponds, and stunning manicured gardens. It’s a tranquil oasis far removed from the city’s hustle, perfect for a leisurely stroll, a romantic picnic, or simply a moment of quiet contemplation. Pack a book and let the gentle murmur of fountains wash over you.

3. Uncover History and Art at the Sant Pau Recinte Modernista

Often overshadowed by Gaudí’s more famous works, the Sant Pau Recinte Modernista is a UNESCO World Heritage site that deserves its own spotlight. This former hospital complex, designed in the early 20th century by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, is a masterpiece of Catalan Modernisme. Wander through its beautifully preserved pavilions, adorned with intricate tilework, stained glass, and stunning sculptures. The sheer scale and artistic detail are astounding, offering a fascinating glimpse into the era’s architectural innovation and a poignant reminder of its philanthropic past. It’s a place that inspires awe and contemplation in equal measure.

4. Immerse Yourself in Local Flavours at Mercat de Sant Antoni

While La Boqueria is a vibrant sensory overload, the Mercat de Sant Antoni offers a more authentic and less tourist-centric market experience. Recently renovated, this grand market hall is a haven for local produce, fresh seafood, and regional delicacies. Come here for breakfast, sample some empanadas, pick up ingredients for a picnic, or simply soak in the lively atmosphere as locals go about their daily shopping. On Sundays, the surrounding streets transform into a bustling book and antique market, adding another layer of discovery to your visit.

5. Hike to the Iconic Bunkers del Carmel for Panoramic Vistas

For the most breathtaking, unobstructed views of Barcelona, skip the crowded viewpoints and head to the Bunkers del Carmel. These anti-aircraft fortifications from the Spanish Civil War offer a dramatic historical backdrop to arguably the best panoramic vistas of the city. While the climb can be a bit of a trek (or a short bus ride up), the reward is immense. Watch the sunset paint the sky in fiery hues, with the entire cityscape spread out before you like a miniature wonderland. It’s a favourite spot for locals to gather with friends, enjoy a picnic, and simply admire their beloved city from above.

Barcelona is a city that rewards curiosity. By venturing beyond the well-trodden paths, you’ll uncover its hidden heart, meet its friendly locals, and create memories that are truly your own. So, next time you find yourself in this Catalan gem, dare to stray from the guidebooks and embrace the magic of the road less travelled. You won’t be disappointed.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Bern

Uncover Bern’s Hidden Gems: 5 Offbeat Attractions for the Curious Traveller

Bern, the charming capital of Switzerland, often finds itself overshadowed by its more famous counterparts in Zurich and Geneva. However, this picturesque city has plenty to offer for the discerning traveller willing to venture off the beaten path. In this post, we’ll explore five unique attractions in Bern that cater to those seeking a more immersive and authentic experience.

  1. The Federations Garden (Bundesgarten)

Tucked away in the heart of the city, the Federations Garden is a serene oasis that few tourists know about. This beautifully landscaped park is home to over 100 flower beds, charming walking paths, and several monuments dedicated to Swiss history and politics. It’s the perfect spot to relax and enjoy the tranquillity amidst bustling Bern.

  1. Einstein Museum

While Albert Einstein’s connection to Bern is well-documented, the dedicated museum to his life and work is often overlooked by visitors. The Einstein Museum offers an engaging and educational experience, featuring interactive exhibits, original documents, and even a reconstructed version of the patent office where Einstein worked. It’s an excellent choice for science enthusiasts and those fascinated by the life of the iconic physicist.

  1. Gurten Hill (Gurten)

For a panoramic view of Bern and its surroundings, head to Gurten Hill, a popular local spot. This hill offers several hiking trails, a playground for kids, and a beer garden with delicious Swiss cuisine. On summer evenings, the Gurten Festival takes place, featuring live music performances and stunning sunsets over the city. Don’t miss the chance to capture breathtaking photos of Bern from this unique vantage point.

  1. Bern Minster’s Roof Tour (Dachrundgang)

Most tourists content themselves with admiring Bern Minster’s Gothic facade from the ground. However, for a truly memorable experience, take the guided roof tour, which provides unparalleled views of the city and its surroundings. The tour leads you through the steeple’s narrow catwalks, giving you a thrilling sense of being on top of the world. Book your spot in advance, as the tour’s limited capacity ensures an exclusive experience.

  1. Tanner Row (Tuchlauben)

Step back in time and wander along Tanner Row, a charming cobblestone street lined with half-timbered houses dating back to the 12th century. This picturesque alley, once an important textile industry hub, now hosts a variety of boutique shops, cozy cafes, and traditional Swiss restaurants. The lively atmosphere and historic charm make Tanner Row an ideal spot for a leisurely afternoon stroll or a romantic dinner date.

In conclusion, Bern offers a wealth of hidden attractions and experiences for those willing to explore beyond the city’s main tourist trails. From serene gardens to thrilling rooftop tours, and from historic streets to science museums, there’s something for every interest and curiosity in this enchanting Swiss city. So why not take the road less travelled and uncover Bern’s unique charm for yourself?

NANOWRIMO – November 2025 – Day 24

…

The Third Son of a Duke

…

Of course, writing letters and making extravagant claims has to have some impact, and the way he worded it, it got the desired response.

Someone wanted to give it a go.

So, off to the powers that be, a longer talk and a look at some maps, then off to camp for some soldier training, and then back for some officer training, stuff to improve that he learned at Sandhurst, and at the end of it, a commission, and a mission.

At least he got to see the pyramids and stand under the sphinx.

He also tried to find Louise, tracing her movements from disembarkation in Alexandria to the camp and then, in the general spirit of missing her by a week, finds she has been sent to a casualty clearing centre, destination, not quite sure

His destination, somewhere on the western front in France.

Now it’s time to face the horrors of war.

…

2230 words, for a total of 39250 words.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Bern

Uncover Bern’s Hidden Gems: 5 Offbeat Attractions for the Curious Traveller

Bern, the charming capital of Switzerland, often finds itself overshadowed by its more famous counterparts in Zurich and Geneva. However, this picturesque city has plenty to offer for the discerning traveller willing to venture off the beaten path. In this post, we’ll explore five unique attractions in Bern that cater to those seeking a more immersive and authentic experience.

  1. The Federations Garden (Bundesgarten)

Tucked away in the heart of the city, the Federations Garden is a serene oasis that few tourists know about. This beautifully landscaped park is home to over 100 flower beds, charming walking paths, and several monuments dedicated to Swiss history and politics. It’s the perfect spot to relax and enjoy the tranquillity amidst bustling Bern.

  1. Einstein Museum

While Albert Einstein’s connection to Bern is well-documented, the dedicated museum to his life and work is often overlooked by visitors. The Einstein Museum offers an engaging and educational experience, featuring interactive exhibits, original documents, and even a reconstructed version of the patent office where Einstein worked. It’s an excellent choice for science enthusiasts and those fascinated by the life of the iconic physicist.

  1. Gurten Hill (Gurten)

For a panoramic view of Bern and its surroundings, head to Gurten Hill, a popular local spot. This hill offers several hiking trails, a playground for kids, and a beer garden with delicious Swiss cuisine. On summer evenings, the Gurten Festival takes place, featuring live music performances and stunning sunsets over the city. Don’t miss the chance to capture breathtaking photos of Bern from this unique vantage point.

  1. Bern Minster’s Roof Tour (Dachrundgang)

Most tourists content themselves with admiring Bern Minster’s Gothic facade from the ground. However, for a truly memorable experience, take the guided roof tour, which provides unparalleled views of the city and its surroundings. The tour leads you through the steeple’s narrow catwalks, giving you a thrilling sense of being on top of the world. Book your spot in advance, as the tour’s limited capacity ensures an exclusive experience.

  1. Tanner Row (Tuchlauben)

Step back in time and wander along Tanner Row, a charming cobblestone street lined with half-timbered houses dating back to the 12th century. This picturesque alley, once an important textile industry hub, now hosts a variety of boutique shops, cozy cafes, and traditional Swiss restaurants. The lively atmosphere and historic charm make Tanner Row an ideal spot for a leisurely afternoon stroll or a romantic dinner date.

In conclusion, Bern offers a wealth of hidden attractions and experiences for those willing to explore beyond the city’s main tourist trails. From serene gardens to thrilling rooftop tours, and from historic streets to science museums, there’s something for every interest and curiosity in this enchanting Swiss city. So why not take the road less travelled and uncover Bern’s unique charm for yourself?

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Zagreb

Beyond Ban Jelačić: 5 Hidden Gems That Define the Real Zagreb

Zagreb. The name conjures images of the iconic red roofs of the Upper Town, the vibrant café culture of the Lower Town, and the mandatory selfies by the Funicular. It’s a beautifully manageable European capital, often praised for its charm and easy walkability.

But for the seasoned traveller—the one who seeks the unvarnished truth of a city—the real magic often lies where the tourist map runs thin.

If you’ve already checked off the Museum of Broken Relationships and sipped your coffee on Cvjetni Trg, it’s time to venture deeper. We’ve compiled the five essential experiences that will take you off the beaten path and into the authentic heart of Zagreb.

1. Descend into History: The Grič Tunnel

While many tourists stick to the surface, locals know that a fascinating, slightly eerie piece of history lies just beneath the cobblestones of the Upper Town.

The Grič Tunnel is a 350-meter-long passage originally constructed during World War II as an air-raid shelter. For decades, it was mostly forgotten, dark, and damp. Today, it has been beautifully renovated and repurposed as a public walkway, linking Radićeva Street (near the main square) to the other side of Grič Hill (near Mesnička Street).

It’s often used for fashion shows, art installations, and even the spectacular Advent in Zagreb Christmas market features sections here. But even on a quiet Tuesday afternoon, walking through its vast, vaulted halls offers a cool, dramatic escape and a poignant reminder of Zagreb’s turbulent past.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): Many tourists assume it’s a construction site or just a side alley, missing the entrance entirely.
  • Insider Tip: While there are several entrances, try the one on Radićeva Street for the full dramatic walk-through experience.

2. A Silent Architectural Masterpiece: Mirogoj Cemetery

Admittedly, the word “cemetery” might not immediately sound like a key tourist destination, but Mirogoj is unlike any other burial ground. Designed in 1876 by the famed architect Hermann Bollé, Mirogoj is less a cemetery and more an open-air art gallery and park.

What defines the space are the massive, sweeping neo-Renaissance arcades clad in green ivy, housing the tombs of Croatia’s most influential figures, from writers and artists to politicians. The central dome and the rows of elegant statues create an atmosphere of serene, melancholy beauty.

This is a space that speaks volumes about Croatian history, artistry, and respect for the departed. It’s quiet, reflective, and stunningly photogenic—a short bus ride from the city centre, but a world away from the city noise.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): It requires a slight detour (Bus 106 from Kaptol), discouraging day-trippers focused solely on the centre.
  • Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon, when the sun casts dramatic shadows across the ivy-covered arcades.

3. The Unassuming Heart of Local Life: Trešnjevka Market

To truly feel the pulse of local Zagreb life, you need to leave the polished centre and head west to the bustling district of Trešnjevka. While Dolac Market is mandatory viewing, Trešnjevački plac (Trešnjevka Market) is where real Zagreb families shop.

This market is large, chaotic, affordable, and incredibly authentic. You won’t just find your typical kumice (market grandmothers) selling produce; you’ll find everything from hardware stalls and used clothing to cheap, traditional dining halls (gableci) serving hearty lunch deals.

Wander the indoor stalls filled with vintage clothing and household trinkets, or browse the outdoor stands overflowing with local cheeses, fresh meats, and flowers. This is the perfect place to grab a ridiculously inexpensive lunch and observe the daily rhythm of the city’s working class.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): Located outside the traditional tourist triangle, it requires using the tram system (Trams 3, 9, 12).
  • What to Try: Look for a gablec (daily lunch) sign—usually a simple, filling meal like goulash or stuffed peppers for under €7.

4. Find the Inventors’ Spirit: The Technical Museum Nikola Tesla

While art and history museums abound in Zagreb, the Technical Museum often gets overlooked in favor of flashier attractions. This is a mistake, especially for those interested in science, industry, and the incredible contributions of Croatian minds.

Named after the world-famous inventor Nikola Tesla, this museum is a fantastic throwback, filled with retro industrial machinery, firefighting equipment, and displays dedicated to engineering breakthroughs. Highlights include a full-scale coal mine model (which you can walk through!), vintage trams, and a dedicated room honouring Tesla himself.

It’s hands-on, slightly dusty in a charming way, and a beautiful testament to Croatia’s industrial history and inventive spirit.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): It isn’t located directly in the central museum quadrant, requiring a short tram ride south of the main train station.
  • Must-See: Check the schedule for the planetarium shows. They are highly rated and offer an excellent break from walking.

5. Escape to the Peak: Medvednica Nature Park

If you feel the need for fresh mountain air and stunning city views that rival those from Lotrščak Tower, hop on a bus or drive toward the northern edge of the city and ascend the Medvednica mountain range.

Medvednica, with its highest peak, Sljeme, is Zagreb’s essential backyard playground. It offers miles of hiking/biking trails, the historic Medvedgrad (a medieval fortified town), and, most importantly, numerous traditional mountain huts (planinarski domovi) serving classic, hearty Croatian mountain food.

Spend a day hiking to one of the lookouts, explore the Veternica cave, or just drive up for lunch at the top. The views are spectacular, and the atmosphere is entirely different from the busy city below.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): Requires dedicated travel time and is not a quick walk-by attraction.
  • What to Try: Order štrukli (baked cheese pastry) at a mountain hut after a long walk—it’s the ultimate Croatian comfort food, and it tastes better high up in the woods.

The Reward of the Detour

Zagreb is a city built on layers of history, culture, and architecture. While the central squares offer undeniable beauty, the true reward comes when you step off the main path.

These five spots provide a window into the life that sustains the city, whether that’s the silent dignity of a historic park, the daily bustle of a working market, or the rugged landscape that surrounds it.

So, put away the polished guidebook, grab a tram, and go discover the real, complex, and captivating Zagreb.

NANOWRIMO – November 2025 – Day 23

…

The Third Son of a Duke

…

Not getting off at Port Said, but going on to Alexandria to disembark with the other people involved in the war.

He is to be met on the wharf, and after disembarkation, that person could be any one of hundreds swarming towards the trains, officers barking orders and people going in all directions.

Confusion and chaos.

Then a voice comes out of the chaos.  A Staff Sergeant with a booming voice.

Orders.

Handed over, get on the train to Cairo, on your way, son….

He was just another soldier.

He goes to Cairo, reading the contents of a letter that’s marked read this first…

From his father

Then, read this second

Instructions on where to go in Cairo.

Cloak and dagger, seemingly, but he suspected it was anything but.

…

2230 words, for a total of 37175 words.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Zagreb

Beyond Ban Jelačić: 5 Hidden Gems That Define the Real Zagreb

Zagreb. The name conjures images of the iconic red roofs of the Upper Town, the vibrant café culture of the Lower Town, and the mandatory selfies by the Funicular. It’s a beautifully manageable European capital, often praised for its charm and easy walkability.

But for the seasoned traveller—the one who seeks the unvarnished truth of a city—the real magic often lies where the tourist map runs thin.

If you’ve already checked off the Museum of Broken Relationships and sipped your coffee on Cvjetni Trg, it’s time to venture deeper. We’ve compiled the five essential experiences that will take you off the beaten path and into the authentic heart of Zagreb.

1. Descend into History: The Grič Tunnel

While many tourists stick to the surface, locals know that a fascinating, slightly eerie piece of history lies just beneath the cobblestones of the Upper Town.

The Grič Tunnel is a 350-meter-long passage originally constructed during World War II as an air-raid shelter. For decades, it was mostly forgotten, dark, and damp. Today, it has been beautifully renovated and repurposed as a public walkway, linking Radićeva Street (near the main square) to the other side of Grič Hill (near Mesnička Street).

It’s often used for fashion shows, art installations, and even the spectacular Advent in Zagreb Christmas market features sections here. But even on a quiet Tuesday afternoon, walking through its vast, vaulted halls offers a cool, dramatic escape and a poignant reminder of Zagreb’s turbulent past.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): Many tourists assume it’s a construction site or just a side alley, missing the entrance entirely.
  • Insider Tip: While there are several entrances, try the one on Radićeva Street for the full dramatic walk-through experience.

2. A Silent Architectural Masterpiece: Mirogoj Cemetery

Admittedly, the word “cemetery” might not immediately sound like a key tourist destination, but Mirogoj is unlike any other burial ground. Designed in 1876 by the famed architect Hermann Bollé, Mirogoj is less a cemetery and more an open-air art gallery and park.

What defines the space are the massive, sweeping neo-Renaissance arcades clad in green ivy, housing the tombs of Croatia’s most influential figures, from writers and artists to politicians. The central dome and the rows of elegant statues create an atmosphere of serene, melancholy beauty.

This is a space that speaks volumes about Croatian history, artistry, and respect for the departed. It’s quiet, reflective, and stunningly photogenic—a short bus ride from the city centre, but a world away from the city noise.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): It requires a slight detour (Bus 106 from Kaptol), discouraging day-trippers focused solely on the centre.
  • Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon, when the sun casts dramatic shadows across the ivy-covered arcades.

3. The Unassuming Heart of Local Life: Trešnjevka Market

To truly feel the pulse of local Zagreb life, you need to leave the polished centre and head west to the bustling district of Trešnjevka. While Dolac Market is mandatory viewing, Trešnjevački plac (Trešnjevka Market) is where real Zagreb families shop.

This market is large, chaotic, affordable, and incredibly authentic. You won’t just find your typical kumice (market grandmothers) selling produce; you’ll find everything from hardware stalls and used clothing to cheap, traditional dining halls (gableci) serving hearty lunch deals.

Wander the indoor stalls filled with vintage clothing and household trinkets, or browse the outdoor stands overflowing with local cheeses, fresh meats, and flowers. This is the perfect place to grab a ridiculously inexpensive lunch and observe the daily rhythm of the city’s working class.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): Located outside the traditional tourist triangle, it requires using the tram system (Trams 3, 9, 12).
  • What to Try: Look for a gablec (daily lunch) sign—usually a simple, filling meal like goulash or stuffed peppers for under €7.

4. Find the Inventors’ Spirit: The Technical Museum Nikola Tesla

While art and history museums abound in Zagreb, the Technical Museum often gets overlooked in favor of flashier attractions. This is a mistake, especially for those interested in science, industry, and the incredible contributions of Croatian minds.

Named after the world-famous inventor Nikola Tesla, this museum is a fantastic throwback, filled with retro industrial machinery, firefighting equipment, and displays dedicated to engineering breakthroughs. Highlights include a full-scale coal mine model (which you can walk through!), vintage trams, and a dedicated room honouring Tesla himself.

It’s hands-on, slightly dusty in a charming way, and a beautiful testament to Croatia’s industrial history and inventive spirit.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): It isn’t located directly in the central museum quadrant, requiring a short tram ride south of the main train station.
  • Must-See: Check the schedule for the planetarium shows. They are highly rated and offer an excellent break from walking.

5. Escape to the Peak: Medvednica Nature Park

If you feel the need for fresh mountain air and stunning city views that rival those from Lotrščak Tower, hop on a bus or drive toward the northern edge of the city and ascend the Medvednica mountain range.

Medvednica, with its highest peak, Sljeme, is Zagreb’s essential backyard playground. It offers miles of hiking/biking trails, the historic Medvedgrad (a medieval fortified town), and, most importantly, numerous traditional mountain huts (planinarski domovi) serving classic, hearty Croatian mountain food.

Spend a day hiking to one of the lookouts, explore the Veternica cave, or just drive up for lunch at the top. The views are spectacular, and the atmosphere is entirely different from the busy city below.

  • Why it’s RLT (Road Less Travelled): Requires dedicated travel time and is not a quick walk-by attraction.
  • What to Try: Order štrukli (baked cheese pastry) at a mountain hut after a long walk—it’s the ultimate Croatian comfort food, and it tastes better high up in the woods.

The Reward of the Detour

Zagreb is a city built on layers of history, culture, and architecture. While the central squares offer undeniable beauty, the true reward comes when you step off the main path.

These five spots provide a window into the life that sustains the city, whether that’s the silent dignity of a historic park, the daily bustle of a working market, or the rugged landscape that surrounds it.

So, put away the polished guidebook, grab a tram, and go discover the real, complex, and captivating Zagreb.