Category: Review

The 2am Rant: When is it ever an easy flight home?

The course of plane travel can run like clockwork, or rapidly come apart at the seems.

Every time you go to the airport, it can become an adventure. Checking in, battling the airline’s kiosk, printing and attaching bag labels, going to bag drop, remembering that every airline does it differently.

Today we are arriving at Hong Kong airport which is huge and there are endless boarding gates. Being dropped off in the zone that belongs to the airline you’re flying might lead you to think finding the check-in for your flights is going to be easy, but it’s not. The next stop is to find the aisle letter where your flight is checking in and then do the automated boarding pass and baggage label.

If it’s international travel which it is today, there’s the added stress of negotiating immigration, and the duty free stores. We followed the rules, got there early, had the usual problems at the kiosk requiring the assistance of two Cathay Pacific staff, and finally made it to the initial departure concourse.

Next there’s the temptation of overpriced airport food if you’re hungry which we are not. But we have a McCafe coffee to satisfy a caffeine fix before the flight.

The shops are all expensive at the initial departure concourse, so we decide to see if there are other shops near our departure gate. To get to it we descend to the train and get off at 40-80. It’s a short journey and then when we arrive there is a collection of more affordable shops where we proceed to buy every man and his dog a selection of sweets with our remaining Hong Kong dollars.

From there it’s a couple of travellators, which sounds ridiculously short, but are, in reality, very, very long, to our gate and we get there ten minutes before boarding is supposed to commence.

Today we are travelling on an Airbus A350-900, a relatively new plane so you would think there could not be anything wrong with it. We had the same plane coming to Hong Kong, and no trouble with it.

We find a seat in the gate lounge and wait, along with everyone else. I’m still surprised at the number of able bodied people who take the disabled seats for the sake of being closer to the start of the line, and worse the woman who not only took up one of the seats but also another seat for her cabin baggage which was extensive.

Boarding starts late, and routinely for the first and business, and disabled passengers. The rest now start to line up in the economy line. Some people haven’t moved, perhaps they know something we don’t.

We eventually join the line, and go through initial formalities while waiting. And waiting. As the minutes tick by and nothing is happening, other than what appears to be growing consternation by the gate staff. The tipping point for immediate concern is when the previously boarded passengers begin to come back through the boarding gate into the departure gate lounge.

One of those who had been on board came our way and said there was a problem with the plane. They were told it was due to technical difficulties, the official non scary description for your plane Is broken. In the face of growing consternation among the queued economy passengers, there was an official announcement that advised of the technical difficulties, and boarding would be delayed.

We all sit back down, but this time there were a number of disabled and elderly people who needed seats, and our able bodied lady and her baggage did not move. Shame on her. We are lucky that where we were in the waiting line was adjacent to nearby seats

Now we were able to watch the other passengers jockeying for position to race to be first in the economy class boarding queue the second time around. I think they don’t realise they have the same seat if they are at the front of the line or the back. Because we were all asked to sit down, those at the front of the queue would now find themselves at the end.

After a delay of about an hour and a half we are finally boarding. The worst aspect of this delay is losing our slot in the departures and I’m guessing this was going to have an effect on our actual takeoff time. It appears to be the case. Boarding does not take very long and shortly after the doors are closed we’re pushing back from the gate.

From there, it becomes a chess game when we get a slot. We are in a queue of planes waiting their turn, and on the taxi ramp before the main runway, planes are separated into two queues, and we are in the second. Since we are the only one, I suspect we’re in the delayed take off queue, and sit watching four or so other planes take off before we finally get on the runway.

On the plane we discover one of the toilets is out of action so perhaps that was the technical difficulty with our plane. It’s not full so one toilet down will have little effect. Leaving in the early afternoon will get us into Brisbane late at night. It was meant to be around 11 pm, but with the delays, and possibly making up time in flight, it will now be after midnight when we arrive. Fortunately we have a 24 hour airport in Brisbane.

The flight from Hong Kong to Brisbane is without event. Lunch after takeoff, then a few hours later, an hour of so before landing, we have dinner. Both of us are not hungry. As expected, we landed after midnight, tired but glad to be home.

,,,

I can’t say at this moment in time I miss travelling.

What I learned about writing: The murky art of plotting (2)

Truth is stranger than fiction

…

The Unseen Shadows: When “Not Suspicious” Hides a Deadly Truth

In the quiet hum of suburban life, where hedges are trimmed and routines are sacred, sometimes the most chilling stories unfold not with a bang, but with a whisper. A seemingly ordinary day, an ordinary house, and a tragedy that, on the surface, appears tragically straightforward.

This week, a news blurb, easily missed, caught my eye. It spoke of a man and a woman, new in their courtship, found deceased in an ordinary suburban home following a welfare call. Their bodies lay side-by-side on the floor. The initial report was stark, almost dismissive: police were not treating the deaths as suspicious.

And that, my friends, is exactly where our story truly begins.

Because what if “not suspicious” is merely the first layer of a far more intricate, and sinister, narrative? What if that seemingly benign conclusion is precisely the moment when a seasoned investigator should lean a little closer, peer beyond the immediate, and ask: “But what if…?”

In our hypothetical deep dive, the scene, initially dismissed as a tragic dual overdose, starts to sing a different tune – one of carefully orchestrated deception.

The Discordant Notes Begin to Play

For a keen eye, particularly one belonging to someone like Detective Chief Inspector Barnes, the “simple case” quickly unravels:

  1. The Implausible Overdose: The immediate assumption was drugs. Yet, friends of the deceased knew them as anything but recreational users. And even if they were, “lying on the floor at home” didn’t align with their known habits. Most tellingly? No drugs were found in the house, save for residual traces on the bodies themselves. Sniffer dogs confirmed this, finding nothing else. This isn’t just unusual; it suggests a planting of evidence, a narrative carefully constructed.
  2. The Selective Theft: In an upstairs office, a laptop was missing – not the charger or the mouse, just the computer itself. Both their cell phones were also gone. Yet, amidst this targeted disappearance, a significant sum of cash, around £500, was left untouched. If this was a robbery, it was remarkably selective, focusing not on valuables, but on information. A thief with a very particular agenda.
  3. The Silent Bruise: A preliminary examination of the woman’s body revealed bruising on her neck. A subtle mark, easily overlooked, but one that strongly suggested a struggle, a chokehold perhaps. This detail alone pushes the needle firmly away from “natural causes” or “accidental overdose” and towards something far more violent. The coroner’s report would confirm, but the suspicion was planted.
  4. The Ghost in the System: And then, the final, chilling piece of the puzzle. A routine check on the male victim’s name returned an “access denied” flag. In our interconnected world, such a block isn’t accidental. It screams of a hidden identity, a past carefully shielded, perhaps even a life lived undercover.

From Misadventure to Murder

For Detective Chief Inspector Barnes, these four seemingly disparate points converged into a single, inescapable truth. What began as a welfare check, initially deemed tragic but benign, was rapidly transforming into something far more sinister: a potential double murder. The scene, far from being straightforward, was a meticulously staged tableau designed to mislead, to funnel investigators down a path of false assumptions.

This fictional scenario, drawn from the briefest of news items and a “what if” musing, serves as a powerful reminder: appearances can be deceiving. The most unassuming details often hold the key, and sometimes, the loudest silence speaks volumes. It’s a testament to the fact that true investigation isn’t about accepting the obvious, but about questioning everything, about looking for the unseen shadows lurking just beneath the surface of the “not suspicious.”

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Harare

Hidden Gems of Harare: 5 Unique and Uncrowded Tourist Attractions You Shouldn’t Miss

When most travellers think of Zimbabwe, destinations like Victoria Falls, Hwange National Park, or Great Zimbabwe often dominate the conversation. But the vibrant capital city of Harare, often overlooked, holds its own with a blend of culture, natural beauty, and quiet charm. While many tourists rush through Harare on their way to other destinations, those who pause to explore will discover a city brimming with understated elegance and off-the-beaten-path experiences.

If you’re looking to escape the crowds and soak in Harare’s authentic spirit, here are five distinctive yet seldom-crowded tourist attractions that offer something truly special:

1. Harare Gardens (Botanical Garden)

Tucked away in the heart of the city, Harare Gardens—also known as the National Botanic Garden—is a serene 47-hectare oasis bursting with indigenous flora, tranquil ponds, and shaded pathways. Despite its central location, it remains one of the city’s best-kept secrets, often visited more by locals taking their morning strolls than by international tourists.

Why It Stands Out:
Home to over 900 plant species, including ancient baobabs and flame trees that bloom spectacularly in November, the gardens are a haven for birdwatchers and photographers. The rose garden and the peaceful duck pond add a romantic touch, perfect for quiet reflection or a peaceful picnic. On weekends, you might catch local musicians or art displays, adding a cultural flair.

Pro Tip: Visit early morning to enjoy the misty atmosphere and catch glimpses of sunbirds flitting between blossoms.

2. The Kopje: A Geological Wonder in the City

Perched atop a granite hill in the suburb of Mount Pleasant, The Kopje is a natural rock formation and one of Harare’s oldest geological landmarks. It’s a short, moderately steep hike (around 20 minutes) that rewards adventurers with panoramic views of the city and surrounding highlands.

Why It Stands Out:
Beyond the scenic vista, The Kopje is rich in history and geology. The massive granite boulders—some balancing precariously on others—were formed over 2.6 billion years ago. Look closely, and you’ll spot ancient rock carvings that hint at early human settlement. The site is sacred to some Zimbabweans and exudes a rare sense of stillness and spiritual energy.

Pro Tip: Bring sturdy shoes and a camera. Golden hour here offers some of the most breathtaking cityscape views with minimal foot traffic.

3. Chapungu Sculpture Park

A tribute to Zimbabwe’s renowned Shona sculpture tradition, Chapungu Sculpture Park in Borrowdale is a sprawling green space adorned with over 100 stone masterpieces. Despite its artistic significance, it remains refreshingly uncrowded, offering a tranquil space to appreciate the country’s rich sculptural heritage.

Why It Stands Out:
Each sculpture tells a story—some spiritual, some whimsical, all deeply connected to Zimbabwean culture and nature. The park is set within beautifully landscaped gardens, with gazebos, lily ponds, and winding paths. It’s an open-air museum where art and nature coexist in harmony.

Pro Tip: Look out for works by master sculptors like Bernard Takawira and Henry Munyaradzi. Guided tours can be arranged to deepen your appreciation of the symbolism behind the art.

4. National Gallery of Zimbabwe

Located in the city centre, the National Gallery is a cultural gem that showcases the best of Zimbabwean and African contemporary art. While it occasionally hosts bustling events, the galleries themselves are usually pleasantly quiet, giving visitors space to truly engage with the artwork.

Why It Stands Out:
The permanent collection includes traditional Shona sculpture, modern paintings, and thought-provoking installations by both emerging and acclaimed artists. The gallery also hosts temporary international exhibitions, film screenings, and artist talks, making it a dynamic cultural hub.

Don’t miss the outdoor sculpture garden and the charming café, which often features live acoustic music on weekends.

Pro Tip: Visit on the first Friday of the month for “First Friday,” a monthly art event with extended hours and special previews—still intimate but lively.

5. Samora Machel Avenue: Heritage & Urban Art Trail

Step off the main tourist routes and explore Samora Machel Avenue—a modest street in the city center that doubles as an open-air gallery of colonial-era architecture and vibrant street art. While not a traditional attraction, its blend of historical preservation and urban expression makes it a unique sight.

Why It Stands Out:
You’ll find beautifully restored Edwardian and Art Deco buildings standing side-by-side with striking murals that reflect Zimbabwe’s liberation history, cultural diversity, and social commentary. It’s a walk through time: from colonial Harare to modern, resilient Zimbabwe.

Pro Tip: Visit mid-morning when natural light hits the murals perfectly. Bring a notebook—this quiet street inspires reflection on art, history, and identity.

Final Thoughts

Harare is more than just a transit city—it’s a destination with a soul. These five hidden attractions offer peace, beauty, and cultural depth without the usual tourist throngs. Whether you’re admiring ancient stone carvings at The Kopje, soaking in the quiet elegance of the botanical gardens, or letting art spark deep conversations at Chapungu, you’ll come away with a richer understanding of Zimbabwe’s capital.

So the next time you’re in Harare, skip the crowded spots and discover the city’s quieter, more authentic side. After all, the best travel memories are often made in the places few others think to go.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Kampala

Kampala’s Secret Side: 5 Uncrowded Spots with Big Character

Kampala. The name itself evokes a symphony of sounds—the friendly calls of vendors, the constant hum of boda bodas, the rhythm of music spilling from roadside bars. It’s a city that vibrates with an infectious energy. But what if you could peel back the layers of that vibrant chaos and find something quieter? Something more intimate?

While the grand mosques and bustling markets rightfully claim their place on any itinerary, Kampala holds a collection of hidden gems. These are the places where history whispers, art breathes, and tranquillity can be found without the jostle of a crowd.

Step off the beaten track and discover five distinctive Kampala attractions that offer a deeper, more personal connection to the heart of Uganda.

1. Kabaka’s Lake: The Royal Oasis

Tucked away in the suburb of Ndeeba, many visitors head straight for the Kasubi Tombs, overlooking this fascinating site just a short distance away. Kabaka’s Lake is one of Kampala’s best-kept secrets and a place of surprising serenity.

Distinctive Feature: This is no ordinary pond. It’s the largest excavated reservoir in the world, dug entirely by hand in the 1880s on the orders of Kabaka Mwanga II. The legend says he intended it to be a channel to the Indian Ocean. While his grand naval ambitions never materialised, the lake remains a remarkable feat of engineering and a tranquil green lung for the city.

Why it’s Not Crowded: It’s a local spot, not packaged heavily for tourist tours. You’ll find joggers, couples on quiet walks, and families enjoying the shade, but rarely large tour groups. It’s a place to breathe and reflect on the ingenuity of Buganda’s history.

Pro-Tip: Visit in the late afternoon. As the sun begins to set, the sky reflects beautifully on the water, and the local community comes to life, offering a perfect blend of nature and authentic city life.

2. The Baháʼí House of Worship: A Sanctuary of Light

Perched on Kikaya Hill, overlooking the city, is the stunning Baháʼí Temple. Known as the Mother Temple of Africa, this architectural masterpiece offers a profound sense of peace that feels a world away from the city’s hustle.

Distinctive Feature: It is the only Baháʼí House of Worship on the entire African continent. Its magnificent, lace-like dome and elegant gardens are designed for quiet meditation and prayer, open to people of all faiths and backgrounds. The interplay of light through the dome and the intricate patterns inside are simply breathtaking.

Why it’s Not Crowded: As a place of worship, its primary function isn’t tourism. Visitors are encouraged to come, sit, and absorb the peaceful atmosphere, which naturally limits the boisterous crowds found at other landmarks.

Pro-Tip: Allow yourself at least an hour. Don’t just take photos from the outside. Enter the main hall, find a seat, and simply enjoy the silence. The surrounding gardens are perfect for a quiet stroll with incredible views of Kampola on a clear day.

3. Nommo Gallery: Uganda’s Artistic Soul

For a dose of culture without the chaos of a hectic market, the Nommo Gallery is an essential stop. Located in a beautiful colonial-era building, it is the oldest and arguably most prestigious art gallery in Uganda.

Distinctive Feature: Run by the Uganda National Cultural Centre, Nommo showcases a diverse and rotating collection of contemporary Ugandan art. From powerful paintings and intricate sculptures to vibrant textiles and jewellery, it is a one-stop shop for understanding the country’s creative pulse. You won’t find mass-produced souvenirs here—only genuine, high-quality art.

Why it’s Not Crowded: Art galleries tend to attract a more contemplative crowd. It’s a serene space where you can take your time, engage with the art, and even chat with the curators or artists who are often on-site.

Pro-Tip: Even if your budget doesn’t stretch to a large painting, consider buying smaller items like prints, postcards, or jewellery. It’s a wonderful way to support local artists directly and take home a truly unique piece of Uganda.

4. Lubiri Mengo & the “Idi Amin” Tunnel: Echoes of History

While the Kasubi Tombs are the regal burial grounds, the Lubiri in Mengo is the Kabaka’s current palace. Much of it is still a functioning royal residence, but guided tours offer a fascinating, and often sobering, glimpse into Uganda’s royal and political past.

Distinctive Feature: The most chilling and memorable part of the tour is the underground tunnel. Allegedly built by Idi Amin during his rule as an escape route and a place to dispose of enemies, the tunnel is a dark, claustrophobic passage that powerfully connects visitors to the country’s more turbulent history. It’s an experience you won’t forget.

Why it’s Not Crowded: Tours are infrequent and must be arranged through a guide at the main gate. This informal system naturally limits the number of visitors. It lacks the infrastructure of a major tourist site, which is precisely part of its raw, authentic appeal.

Pro-Tip: Arrange your tour in advance if possible. Be respectful; this is still a significant cultural and royal site. The stories shared by the guides are often personal and powerful, so listen closely.

5. A Rooftop Vantage Point: Kampala from Above

Sometimes, the best attraction isn’t a building, but a view. Escaping the street-level noise and gaining a new perspective is one of the best ways to appreciate the scale and beauty of Kampala, nestled among its seven hills.

Distinctive Feature: A panoramic, bird’s-eye view of the sprawling city. You can see the red-tiled roofs, green patches of trees, and the distant hills that define Kampala’s landscape. It’s especially magical during the golden hour as the city begins to light up.

Why it’s Not Crowded: While popular, rooftop bars are often relaxed and spacious. The key is to go during an off-peak time, like mid-afternoon for coffee, rather than a Friday night for drinks.

Pro-Tip: Two excellent choices are the rooftop garden at The Emin Pasha Hotel (for a more classic, serene experience) or the top floor of Javas House on Acacia Avenue (Longacres). Grab a coffee, find a comfy seat, and just watch the city breathe below you.

Go Beyond the Postcard

Kampala rewards the curious traveller. By seeking out these quieter corners, you’ll discover a city with a depth and character that goes far beyond the typical tourist trail. You’ll find the soul of Uganda in its serene temples, its hidden history, and its pockets of inspiring peace.

So next time you find yourself in the “City of Seven Hills,” dare to wander. You might be surprised by what you find.

What I learned about writing: The murky art of plotting! (1)

Truth is stranger than fiction

…

Google Maps: More Than Just Directions – A Portal to Phantom Mysteries?

We all use Google Maps. It’s our trusty co-pilot, guiding us through unfamiliar streets, helping us find the nearest coffee shop, and even letting us snoop on our old childhood homes (admit it, you’ve done it!). But what if I told you that sometimes, beneath the familiar satellite imagery, Google Maps offers a glimpse into something far stranger than your aunt’s meticulously manicured lawn?

Lately, chatter has been building around peculiar anomalies popping up on the platform – digital specters appearing where they absolutely shouldn’t. Imagine panning over a dense, untouched forest, far from any airport, only to find a colossal Airbus A320 or Boeing 737 perfectly intact, sitting in a clearing. No missing plane reports, no emergency landings, just a commercial jetliner chilling amongst the trees. How did it get there? And more importantly, why?

This isn’t an isolated incident. There are numerous reports of cars, sometimes multiple vehicles, resting eerily at the bottom of lakes, visible from above. While many of these are indeed phantom images, some chillingly prove to be real. You might recall the story of the car discovered in a lake in Florida, which, upon investigation, contained the remains of a man who had been missing for over two decades. The digital anomaly led to a very real, very tragic discovery.

So, before we reach for our tinfoil hats, there’s a rational explanation for most of these ghostly appearances. The phenomenon is often an instance of image overlay or “ghosting.” Google Maps stitches together countless satellite and aerial photographs taken at different times. When an object, like a low-flying aircraft, is captured in one image over a particular spot, and a later, object-free image of the same spot is layered on top, a faint “ghost” of the original object can remain visible. The plane in the forest? It’s highly probable it was just flying incredibly low when the initial photograph was taken, leaving its digital imprint on the landscape.

Mystery solved, right? Well, mostly.

But what if, just what if, these digital echoes aren’t always mere glitches? What if, sometimes, they are whispers of something more, waiting to be heard?

Mick knew all about those lonely leisure hours when there was nothing else to do. He wasn’t one for idly scrolling social media; Mick was a tramper, a genuine trailblazer. His idea of relaxation was poring over topographical maps, looking for untouched corners of the world, sketching out potential new paths through forests, and dreaming of odd discoveries. Years ago, one such expedition had led him to uncover a lost village of significant archaeological value. He had a knack for finding things.

One drizzly afternoon, with the rain drumming against his window, Mick found himself drifting through Google Maps, exploring remote stretches of a national forest known for its dense, ancient foliage. He zoomed in, panned around, his cursor tracing imaginary trails. He wasn’t looking for glitches, but for inspiration, for the subtle hints of untamed beauty.

Then he saw it.

Not a ghost, not a blur, but what seemed to be distinct wreckage dispersed in a clearing. Glimpses of what looked like metal fragments, incongruous against the deep green canopy. It wasn’t the clean, whole plane of famous internet anomalies, but a scattering, undeniably man-made and out of place. He noted the date of the photograph – nearly a year prior.

A chill ran down his spine. He immediately checked local news archives, aviation reports, anything about missing small planes or crashes in the area. Nothing. Not a single mention. It was too remote for a simple crash to go unnoticed, yet too significant to be naturally occurring.

He kept the location saved, revisiting it over the next few days. It gnawed at him. Was it a trick of the light? A bizarre anomaly of the photo processing? He called a friend, an equally seasoned bushwalker, and explained his digital discovery, asking him to verify it on his own map.

“Right, mate, I’m looking,” came his friend’s voice over the phone a few minutes later. “Where exactly did you say?”

Mick guided him, pixel by pixel. “See it? Right there, by that cluster of three oaks…”

There was a pause. “Uh, Mick? There’s just… trees.”

Mick’s stomach dropped. He clicked back to his own map. The wreckage was gone. The clearing was pristine, just an unbroken expanse of forest. He felt a wave of self-doubt. Had his mind been playing tricks, wanting to find something remarkable, perhaps fabricating the whole thing?

But then he noticed it. The date of the photograph displayed on his screen had updated. It was no longer the nearly-a-year-old image. It was a new one, taken just a few weeks ago.

The digital ghost had vanished, but the seed of a real-world mystery had been planted. With the rain still falling and nothing better to do, Mick knew exactly what his next walking holiday would entail. He wasn’t just going to look at maps anymore. He was going to see what was really there.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Kampala

Kampala’s Secret Side: 5 Uncrowded Spots with Big Character

Kampala. The name itself evokes a symphony of sounds—the friendly calls of vendors, the constant hum of boda bodas, the rhythm of music spilling from roadside bars. It’s a city that vibrates with an infectious energy. But what if you could peel back the layers of that vibrant chaos and find something quieter? Something more intimate?

While the grand mosques and bustling markets rightfully claim their place on any itinerary, Kampala holds a collection of hidden gems. These are the places where history whispers, art breathes, and tranquillity can be found without the jostle of a crowd.

Step off the beaten track and discover five distinctive Kampala attractions that offer a deeper, more personal connection to the heart of Uganda.

1. Kabaka’s Lake: The Royal Oasis

Tucked away in the suburb of Ndeeba, many visitors head straight for the Kasubi Tombs, overlooking this fascinating site just a short distance away. Kabaka’s Lake is one of Kampala’s best-kept secrets and a place of surprising serenity.

Distinctive Feature: This is no ordinary pond. It’s the largest excavated reservoir in the world, dug entirely by hand in the 1880s on the orders of Kabaka Mwanga II. The legend says he intended it to be a channel to the Indian Ocean. While his grand naval ambitions never materialised, the lake remains a remarkable feat of engineering and a tranquil green lung for the city.

Why it’s Not Crowded: It’s a local spot, not packaged heavily for tourist tours. You’ll find joggers, couples on quiet walks, and families enjoying the shade, but rarely large tour groups. It’s a place to breathe and reflect on the ingenuity of Buganda’s history.

Pro-Tip: Visit in the late afternoon. As the sun begins to set, the sky reflects beautifully on the water, and the local community comes to life, offering a perfect blend of nature and authentic city life.

2. The Baháʼí House of Worship: A Sanctuary of Light

Perched on Kikaya Hill, overlooking the city, is the stunning Baháʼí Temple. Known as the Mother Temple of Africa, this architectural masterpiece offers a profound sense of peace that feels a world away from the city’s hustle.

Distinctive Feature: It is the only Baháʼí House of Worship on the entire African continent. Its magnificent, lace-like dome and elegant gardens are designed for quiet meditation and prayer, open to people of all faiths and backgrounds. The interplay of light through the dome and the intricate patterns inside are simply breathtaking.

Why it’s Not Crowded: As a place of worship, its primary function isn’t tourism. Visitors are encouraged to come, sit, and absorb the peaceful atmosphere, which naturally limits the boisterous crowds found at other landmarks.

Pro-Tip: Allow yourself at least an hour. Don’t just take photos from the outside. Enter the main hall, find a seat, and simply enjoy the silence. The surrounding gardens are perfect for a quiet stroll with incredible views of Kampola on a clear day.

3. Nommo Gallery: Uganda’s Artistic Soul

For a dose of culture without the chaos of a hectic market, the Nommo Gallery is an essential stop. Located in a beautiful colonial-era building, it is the oldest and arguably most prestigious art gallery in Uganda.

Distinctive Feature: Run by the Uganda National Cultural Centre, Nommo showcases a diverse and rotating collection of contemporary Ugandan art. From powerful paintings and intricate sculptures to vibrant textiles and jewellery, it is a one-stop shop for understanding the country’s creative pulse. You won’t find mass-produced souvenirs here—only genuine, high-quality art.

Why it’s Not Crowded: Art galleries tend to attract a more contemplative crowd. It’s a serene space where you can take your time, engage with the art, and even chat with the curators or artists who are often on-site.

Pro-Tip: Even if your budget doesn’t stretch to a large painting, consider buying smaller items like prints, postcards, or jewellery. It’s a wonderful way to support local artists directly and take home a truly unique piece of Uganda.

4. Lubiri Mengo & the “Idi Amin” Tunnel: Echoes of History

While the Kasubi Tombs are the regal burial grounds, the Lubiri in Mengo is the Kabaka’s current palace. Much of it is still a functioning royal residence, but guided tours offer a fascinating, and often sobering, glimpse into Uganda’s royal and political past.

Distinctive Feature: The most chilling and memorable part of the tour is the underground tunnel. Allegedly built by Idi Amin during his rule as an escape route and a place to dispose of enemies, the tunnel is a dark, claustrophobic passage that powerfully connects visitors to the country’s more turbulent history. It’s an experience you won’t forget.

Why it’s Not Crowded: Tours are infrequent and must be arranged through a guide at the main gate. This informal system naturally limits the number of visitors. It lacks the infrastructure of a major tourist site, which is precisely part of its raw, authentic appeal.

Pro-Tip: Arrange your tour in advance if possible. Be respectful; this is still a significant cultural and royal site. The stories shared by the guides are often personal and powerful, so listen closely.

5. A Rooftop Vantage Point: Kampala from Above

Sometimes, the best attraction isn’t a building, but a view. Escaping the street-level noise and gaining a new perspective is one of the best ways to appreciate the scale and beauty of Kampala, nestled among its seven hills.

Distinctive Feature: A panoramic, bird’s-eye view of the sprawling city. You can see the red-tiled roofs, green patches of trees, and the distant hills that define Kampala’s landscape. It’s especially magical during the golden hour as the city begins to light up.

Why it’s Not Crowded: While popular, rooftop bars are often relaxed and spacious. The key is to go during an off-peak time, like mid-afternoon for coffee, rather than a Friday night for drinks.

Pro-Tip: Two excellent choices are the rooftop garden at The Emin Pasha Hotel (for a more classic, serene experience) or the top floor of Javas House on Acacia Avenue (Longacres). Grab a coffee, find a comfy seat, and just watch the city breathe below you.

Go Beyond the Postcard

Kampala rewards the curious traveller. By seeking out these quieter corners, you’ll discover a city with a depth and character that goes far beyond the typical tourist trail. You’ll find the soul of Uganda in its serene temples, its hidden history, and its pockets of inspiring peace.

So next time you find yourself in the “City of Seven Hills,” dare to wander. You might be surprised by what you find.

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Dar es Salaam

Hidden Gems of Dar es Salaam: 5 Uncrowded Tourist Attractions with Distinctive Charms

When travellers think of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania’s bustling coastal metropolis, images of busy markets, vibrant street life, and oceanfront promenades often come to mind. While landmarks like the National Museum and Kariakoo Market draw large crowds, the city holds a treasure trove of lesser-known attractions that remain delightfully uncrowded. These hidden gems offer authentic cultural experiences, historical depth, and natural beauty—without the usual tourist rush.

If you’re looking to explore Dar es Salaam beyond the well-trodden path, here are five unique, low-traffic tourist attractions that deserve a spot on your itinerary.

1. Msasani Slipway & The Village Museum

Nestled along the tranquil Msasani Peninsula, the Msasani Slipway is a redeveloped shipyard turned lifestyle and cultural hub. Unlike the packed beaches of Oyster Bay, this waterfront area retains a relaxed charm. By day, you can admire traditional dhows being built using age-old techniques—an ode to Dar’s maritime heritage. By evening, local artisans sell crafts, and live Afro-jazz music floats through the air.

Attached to this area is the often-overlooked Village Museum, which offers a beautifully curated journey through Tanzania’s diverse ethnic cultures. Life-sized replicas of traditional homesteads from the Maasai, Chagga, Sukuma, and other communities provide an intimate, educational glimpse into the nation’s heritage. Best of all, the museum rarely sees long lines, making it perfect for a peaceful, reflective visit.

Why it’s special: A rare blend of urban revival, cultural education, and scenic harbour views.

2. Azania Front Lutheran Church (AFLC)

Tucked between colonial-era buildings and modern storefronts in the city centre, the Azania Front Lutheran Church, often called the “Cathedral of Dar,” is an architectural marvel with deep historical roots. Built in the early 20th century during the German colonial period, its red-brick Gothic Revival design stands out amidst the bustling streets.

While not a major tourist hotspot, this Anglican-turned-Lutheran church is a serene sanctuary of stained glass, carved wood, and peaceful acoustics. Visitors are often welcomed by friendly parishioners and may even attend a Sunday service to experience uplifting Swahili gospel hymns.

Why it’s special: A peaceful urban oasis with colonial-era architecture and living spiritual significance—often missed by tour groups.

3. Pugu Hills Forest Reserve

Just a 30-minute drive from downtown Dar es Salaam lies the Pugu Hills Forest Reserve, one of the oldest protected forests in Africa. Designated in 1890, this lush green expanse is home to rare bird species, medicinal plants, and ancient rock art sites believed to be centuries old.

Unlike Tanzania’s more famous national parks, Pugu Hills is rarely visited by tourists. Guided walks with local community rangers offer insights into conservation efforts and indigenous knowledge. The trails wind through misty woodlands and open fields, offering solitude and a breath of fresh air away from city noise.

Why it’s special: A quiet, eco-friendly escape with historical, ecological, and cultural layers—perfect for nature lovers and hikers seeking serenity.

4. Kunduchi Wet ‘n’ Wild (Off-Peak Visits)

While Kunduchi Wet ‘n’ Wild is known as a popular water park, visiting during weekday mornings or outside school holidays reveals a surprisingly uncrowded, family-friendly retreat. This expansive recreational complex features thrilling water slides, relaxing pools, and picnic spaces within a shady coastal forest.

Beyond the rides, the park occasionally hosts cultural performances and seafood barbecues using local recipes. Go early, and you’ll enjoy the amenities with room to breathe—plus, friendly staff often share stories about the park’s evolution from a coconut plantation.

Why it’s special: A dynamic space that transforms from bustling to tranquil, offering fun and cultural flavour when visited off-peak.

5. The Slipway Art Galleries & Pop-Ups

Scattered around The Slipway complex in Msasani, several independent art galleries and pop-up exhibitions showcase works by emerging Tanzanian artists. Spaces like Nafasi Art Space (just a short walk inland) and rotating pop-ups at cafés and studios spotlight contemporary Swahili themes, political commentary, and abstract expressions using local materials.

These galleries are rarely packed, allowing intimate viewing and the chance to chat directly with artists. Many pieces reflect Tanzania’s social fabric, from coastal life to urban youth culture.

Why it’s special: A vibrant, quiet corner of Dar’s creative scene where art meets authenticity.

Final Thoughts: Discover the Dar Less Travelled

Dar es Salaam is more than traffic, skyscrapers, and busy ports. Beneath its fast-paced surface lies a city rich in quiet beauty, cultural depth, and resilient traditions. These five uncrowded attractions exemplify Dar’s hidden heart—accessible, memorable, and refreshingly free from the tourist throngs.

So, the next time you’re in Tanzania’s largest city, step off the beaten path. Whether you’re sipping chai at The Slipway while watching fishermen mend their nets, or tracing ancient rock etchings in Pugu Hills, you’ll discover that Dar es Salaam’s most meaningful moments often happen in silence, solitude, and surprise.

Travel Tip: For the best experience, visit these sites early in the morning or during weekdays. Many locals also recommend hiring a community guide for deeper context and meaningful interactions.

Have you visited any of these hidden spots? Share your quiet adventures in the comments below!

What I learned about writing: Writers must read

If there is one thing I cannot resist is walking into a book store wherever it might be.

It usually elicits a groan from everyone I’m with because for them, watching grass grow is a more fascinating exercise.

But…

The best bookshops are the pop-up ones that appear in various shopping centres where there are empty spaces, and these have a wide variety of books for just $7 each.

And there are lots of bargains…

As you can see, I have been on a few bargain hunts lately and like any writer’s room, tucked away with the boxes of drinks, gardening equipment and everything else that just doesn’t fit in the house, are the piles of books awaiting being put into the shelves

As you can see, the shelves are almost full so it’s going to be an uphill battle to find spaces for them.

By the way, there are eight such book cases on the surrounding walls, as well as a new one, recently discarded from the lounge room, to house the reference books

Along with a few stuffed bears.

The job of putting books on shelves falls to the grandchildren, whom I am trying to convince that when they get older, they should too embrace the idea of having a reading room, which my writing room will also be when I eventually get to throw out the accumulation of years of discarded homewares.

Perhaps one day next year…

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Dar es Salaam

Hidden Gems of Dar es Salaam: 5 Uncrowded Tourist Attractions with Distinctive Charms

When travellers think of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania’s bustling coastal metropolis, images of busy markets, vibrant street life, and oceanfront promenades often come to mind. While landmarks like the National Museum and Kariakoo Market draw large crowds, the city holds a treasure trove of lesser-known attractions that remain delightfully uncrowded. These hidden gems offer authentic cultural experiences, historical depth, and natural beauty—without the usual tourist rush.

If you’re looking to explore Dar es Salaam beyond the well-trodden path, here are five unique, low-traffic tourist attractions that deserve a spot on your itinerary.

1. Msasani Slipway & The Village Museum

Nestled along the tranquil Msasani Peninsula, the Msasani Slipway is a redeveloped shipyard turned lifestyle and cultural hub. Unlike the packed beaches of Oyster Bay, this waterfront area retains a relaxed charm. By day, you can admire traditional dhows being built using age-old techniques—an ode to Dar’s maritime heritage. By evening, local artisans sell crafts, and live Afro-jazz music floats through the air.

Attached to this area is the often-overlooked Village Museum, which offers a beautifully curated journey through Tanzania’s diverse ethnic cultures. Life-sized replicas of traditional homesteads from the Maasai, Chagga, Sukuma, and other communities provide an intimate, educational glimpse into the nation’s heritage. Best of all, the museum rarely sees long lines, making it perfect for a peaceful, reflective visit.

Why it’s special: A rare blend of urban revival, cultural education, and scenic harbour views.

2. Azania Front Lutheran Church (AFLC)

Tucked between colonial-era buildings and modern storefronts in the city centre, the Azania Front Lutheran Church, often called the “Cathedral of Dar,” is an architectural marvel with deep historical roots. Built in the early 20th century during the German colonial period, its red-brick Gothic Revival design stands out amidst the bustling streets.

While not a major tourist hotspot, this Anglican-turned-Lutheran church is a serene sanctuary of stained glass, carved wood, and peaceful acoustics. Visitors are often welcomed by friendly parishioners and may even attend a Sunday service to experience uplifting Swahili gospel hymns.

Why it’s special: A peaceful urban oasis with colonial-era architecture and living spiritual significance—often missed by tour groups.

3. Pugu Hills Forest Reserve

Just a 30-minute drive from downtown Dar es Salaam lies the Pugu Hills Forest Reserve, one of the oldest protected forests in Africa. Designated in 1890, this lush green expanse is home to rare bird species, medicinal plants, and ancient rock art sites believed to be centuries old.

Unlike Tanzania’s more famous national parks, Pugu Hills is rarely visited by tourists. Guided walks with local community rangers offer insights into conservation efforts and indigenous knowledge. The trails wind through misty woodlands and open fields, offering solitude and a breath of fresh air away from city noise.

Why it’s special: A quiet, eco-friendly escape with historical, ecological, and cultural layers—perfect for nature lovers and hikers seeking serenity.

4. Kunduchi Wet ‘n’ Wild (Off-Peak Visits)

While Kunduchi Wet ‘n’ Wild is known as a popular water park, visiting during weekday mornings or outside school holidays reveals a surprisingly uncrowded, family-friendly retreat. This expansive recreational complex features thrilling water slides, relaxing pools, and picnic spaces within a shady coastal forest.

Beyond the rides, the park occasionally hosts cultural performances and seafood barbecues using local recipes. Go early, and you’ll enjoy the amenities with room to breathe—plus, friendly staff often share stories about the park’s evolution from a coconut plantation.

Why it’s special: A dynamic space that transforms from bustling to tranquil, offering fun and cultural flavour when visited off-peak.

5. The Slipway Art Galleries & Pop-Ups

Scattered around The Slipway complex in Msasani, several independent art galleries and pop-up exhibitions showcase works by emerging Tanzanian artists. Spaces like Nafasi Art Space (just a short walk inland) and rotating pop-ups at cafés and studios spotlight contemporary Swahili themes, political commentary, and abstract expressions using local materials.

These galleries are rarely packed, allowing intimate viewing and the chance to chat directly with artists. Many pieces reflect Tanzania’s social fabric, from coastal life to urban youth culture.

Why it’s special: A vibrant, quiet corner of Dar’s creative scene where art meets authenticity.

Final Thoughts: Discover the Dar Less Travelled

Dar es Salaam is more than traffic, skyscrapers, and busy ports. Beneath its fast-paced surface lies a city rich in quiet beauty, cultural depth, and resilient traditions. These five uncrowded attractions exemplify Dar’s hidden heart—accessible, memorable, and refreshingly free from the tourist throngs.

So, the next time you’re in Tanzania’s largest city, step off the beaten path. Whether you’re sipping chai at The Slipway while watching fishermen mend their nets, or tracing ancient rock etchings in Pugu Hills, you’ll discover that Dar es Salaam’s most meaningful moments often happen in silence, solitude, and surprise.

Travel Tip: For the best experience, visit these sites early in the morning or during weekdays. Many locals also recommend hiring a community guide for deeper context and meaningful interactions.

Have you visited any of these hidden spots? Share your quiet adventures in the comments below!

Top 5 sights on the road less travelled – Pretoria

Discover Pretoria’s Hidden Gems: Top 5 Under-the-Radar Attractions with Breathtaking Character

Pretoria, South Africa’s administrative capital, is often lauded for its grand government buildings like the iconic Union Buildings and the Voortrekker Monument. However, beyond its political skyline lie quieter, lesser-known treasures that offer unique experiences without the bustling crowds. If you’re seeking tranquillity and rich cultural or natural features, here are five must-visit spots in Pretoria that are off the tourist radar but well worth exploring.

1. Tafelberg Ridge: A Hiker’s Paradise with Panoramic Vistas

Tucked just southeast of Pretoria city centre, Tafelberg Ridge is a geological marvel and a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. This iconic rock formation, also known as “The Table,” rises 150 meters above the surrounding plains and boasts the oldest known rock art in southern Africa—dating back over 2,000 years—created by the San people.

  • Why Visit?
    Hike or rock-climb to the summit for breathtaking 360° views of Pretoria and the surrounding Highveld. The well-maintained trails cater to all fitness levels, and the ridge’s historical significance adds an educational layer to your adventure.
  • Crowd Tip: Early mornings or weekdays ensure solitude and are perfect for capturing sunrise photos or soaking in the serenity.

2. Pretoria National Botanical Garden: A Verdant Escape

This 280-hectare haven, located on the banks of the Apies River, is a lush sanctuary for nature lovers. Unlike the more crowded urban parks, the Pretoria National Botanical Garden offers a diverse array of indigenous flora, serene waterways, and a suspended canopy walkway.

  • Why Visit?
    Explore themed gardens like the Veld Reserve (showcasing natural landscapes) and the Rock Garden, stroll across the sky bridge for elevated views, or enjoy a peaceful picnic by the lake. It’s a living museum of South Africa’s biodiversity.
  • Crowd Tip: Weekdays are virtually empty, making it ideal for leisurely strolls or birdwatching among over 160 species.

3. Irene Village: A Step Back in Time

Nestled just outside Pretoria, Irene Village is a quaint, centuries-old settlement that retains its original charm. Once a strategic military town, it now offers a blend of history, architecture, and artisanal flair.

  • Why Visit?
    Wander cobbled streets lined with cobalt-blue houses, visit the Irene Museum (housed in a 19th-century inn), and enjoy farm-to-table dining at local cafés. The village’s tranquillity and preserved heritage make it a time capsule of old Pretoria.
  • Crowd Tip: Sundays are the quietest, perfect for exploring with a leisurely pace.

4. Church Square: Pretoria’s Cultural Heart

Right in the heart of Pretoria, Church Square is a dynamic yet surprisingly uncluttered space. Often overshadowed by its more ostentatious neighbours, this square is the focal point of the city’s cultural identity.

  • Why Visit?
    Admire the statue of Paul Kruger (South Africa’s first president), attend one of the weekly markets (Fridays and Saturdays), or enjoy street performances and weekend festivals. The square’s mix of politics, art, and history is palpable.
  • Crowd Tip: Weekdays are calm, offering a chance to reflect among the monuments and learn about Pretoria’s contested past.

5. Pretoria Prison: A Stark Glimpse into the Past

Now a museum, Pretoria Prison is a striking example of colonial-era architecture and a sobering look into South Africa’s political history. Built in 1888, it once held prominent figures like Nelson Mandela and Paul Kruger.

  • Why Visit?
    Walk through the same concrete cells and tunnels that imprisoned freedom fighters, and explore exhibits on the evolution of South Africa’s penal system. The prison’s eerie ambience and historical weight make it a unique and thought-provoking experience.
  • Crowd Tip: Public tours are intimate, with early morning slots being the least crowded.

Final Thoughts: Pretoria’s Quiet Side Awaits

Pretoria’s lesser-known attractions offer a quieter, more personal way to connect with the city’s rich heritage and natural beauty. Whether you’re hiking to the top of Tafelberg Ridge or sipping coffee in Irene Village, these destinations reveal Pretoria’s soul away from the usual tourist trails. So next time you visit, trade the postcards for a deeper, more reflective journey.

Pro Tip: Pair these experiences with a visit to the Union Buildings or Voortrekker Monument for the perfect mix of iconic and hidden Pretoria!

Ready to discover the unsung gems of Pretoria? Let the adventure begin! 🌿🌄